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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 6:11 pm Post subject: Separated Elements |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Hi folks
Is it possible to repair a lens that has some separation? i have heard of people putting them in the oven, is this an old wive's tale or does it work? _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6602 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 5:43 am Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
I have actually tried this - used an old toaster oven.
It didn't work for me, the separation just changed shape.
The proper solution in theory would be to re-separate the elements and re-cement them, which is apparently not out of the question for a novice, if one takes care to keep the elements correctly aligned while they set.
What I wonder about though is the effect on coatings. Unless I miss my guess heating elements may damage them badly. _________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
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Sevo
Joined: 22 Aug 2008 Posts: 1189 Location: Frankfurt, Germany
Expire: 2012-12-03
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Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 8:20 am Post subject: |
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Sevo wrote:
Re-cementing through heat does not work for the lenses we usually talk about - Canada balsam, where mild warming did work, was only used up until the thirties to late forties, and the plastics that succeeded it tend to go yellow or brown before they separate for good rather than re-join. _________________ Sevo |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 12:26 pm Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Thanks guys, I'll pass on the diy treatment then, I don't fancy boiling elements in solvent to separate then re-cement as I doubt I'd get em centred. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11019 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 3:00 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Off and rejoining of an objective lens
Ultraviolet Curing Optical Cements and Photopolymers _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 8:07 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
iangreenhalgh1 wrote: |
Thanks guys, I'll pass on the diy treatment then, I don't fancy boiling elements in solvent to separate then re-cement as I doubt I'd get em centred. |
Charles doing it successfully on expensive lenses if need, difficult, costly process. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 12:48 am Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Thanks Attila, I had seen a Distagon with severe separation going very cheap, I will pass on it. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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ZoneV
Joined: 09 Nov 2009 Posts: 1632 Location: Germany
Expire: 2011-12-02
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Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 1:02 pm Post subject: |
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ZoneV wrote:
I have made first experiments with canada balsam with an old Agfa lens. But the result was not good enough - but I think with some refinement it could be DIY done.
Thinking about a procedure to work without loosing to much of the heat whilst taking the two oarts together, probably near some heating element, to get more time to align and get the canada balsam every where.
Or try to get better amount of canaca balm onto the lens.
Or take UV cureable glue - so I have long time to adjust, and when I am think I am ready I could use the sun for curing. I think this way would be much easier. _________________ Camera modification, repair and DIY - some links to look through: http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/index-en.html
I AM A LENS NERD!
Epis, Elmaron, Emerald, Ernostar, Helioplan and Heidosmat.
Epiotar, Kameraobjektiv, Anastigmat, Epis, Meganast, Magnagon, Quinar, Culmigon, Novotrinast, Novflexar, Colorplan, Sekor, Kinon, Talon, Telemegor, Xenon, Xenar, Ultra, Ultra Star. Tessar, Janar, Visionar, Kiptar, Kipronar and Rotelar.
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bob955i
Joined: 15 Apr 2007 Posts: 2495
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Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 9:50 pm Post subject: |
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bob955i wrote:
I have a Flektogon 35 that had what appeared to be a fingerprint inside a cemented doublet - I marked the doublet sides for some degree of correct re-alignment then used a hairdryer to gently heat the doublet until the balsam melted enough to separate the two elements. The balsam was then cleaned off, a tiny spot of watch oil applied to the relevant side of one element, the other was then fitted to it and slid around to spread the oil. The previously made marks were then re-aligned and the doublet refitted. The oil layer is so thin that it's effectively clear.
Worth a try if the lens is cheap or as an experiment on one that it doesn't matter if it doesn't... |
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