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martyn_bannister
Joined: 23 May 2010 Posts: 1151
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Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 11:16 am Post subject: WILL-WETZLAR MAGINON 200/3.5 |
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martyn_bannister wrote:
Managed to botch up a mount for this all-plastic projector(?) lens onto my M42 bellows.
100% centre crop at infinity - not much CA
As expected, contrast isn't great - but painting the inside of the "mount" with matt black paint might help. Focusing closer and closer.....
Next door's cat thinks I am mad.
Sort of an OK fun lens for £1.99, but not really anything fantastic |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 11:48 am Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Yup, it's a projector lens, I nearly bid on it myself but bought an Enna projector lens for 99p instead with 5 quid postage.
I have a few projector lenses, what I'm planning to do to be able to mount and focus them is buy an old projector and remove the lens tube from it then put an EOS mount on the back of that tube, the projector lenses then screw into this as they have that large thread for focussing. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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martyn_bannister
Joined: 23 May 2010 Posts: 1151
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Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 12:13 pm Post subject: |
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martyn_bannister wrote:
iangreenhalgh1 wrote: |
Yup, it's a projector lens, I nearly bid on it myself but bought an Enna projector lens for 99p instead with 5 quid postage.
I have a few projector lenses, what I'm planning to do to be able to mount and focus them is buy an old projector and remove the lens tube from it then put an EOS mount on the back of that tube, the projector lenses then screw into this as they have that large thread for focussing. |
I'm just getting back into using a lathe, so I made up an M42x1 adpater to go straight on the back of the lens (out of perspex - DOH!). No need to use the focus helix if its on bellows. |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 12:30 pm Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Good point about the bellows, I just want to try the tube idea as bellows are a bit cumbersome, especially with the smaller projector lenses, seems like overkill.
Nice work on the lathe, never used one myself apart from turning wood at school. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011 Posts: 2726 Location: Kiel, Germany.
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Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 1:48 pm Post subject: |
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ForenSeil wrote:
I also made such a conversion to m42 once, but without a bellows
I was able to use the screw for focussing, instead of the bellows.
But I think a bellows would be the better solution.
I didn't used it much as it wasn't good and wasn't producing any special effects etc.
_________________ I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language) |
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martyn_bannister
Joined: 23 May 2010 Posts: 1151
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Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 2:35 pm Post subject: |
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martyn_bannister wrote:
Neatly done though and more contrast, no doubt due to less light leaking in |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 4:05 pm Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
I found with using enlarger and projector lenses you need a good hood.
Lack of contrast is a problem I've often run into with them.
I love to see people doing this kind of experiemntal work though, thanks for sharing martin. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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walter g
Joined: 20 Feb 2010 Posts: 2463 Location: NC, USA
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Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 6:42 pm Post subject: |
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walter g wrote:
Here's my setup for testing Projector lenses.I need to get tht lens back out and try it on my 10D.
http://forum.mflenses.com/projection-zoom-4-to-6-f3-5-t32387.html _________________
Main cameras
Panasonic G5,Nikon J1,Pentax Q10,Sony Nex 6
Minolta MC W SI 2.5/28, MD 2.8/28, MC W SG 3.5/28, MC Celtic 3.5/28, MC W HG 2.8/35, MD Celtic 2.8/35, QE 4/35, Rokkor X 2/45, MC Rokkor X PG 1.4/50, MC Rokkor X PG 1.7/50, MD Rokkor X 1.7/50, MD 2/50, MC Rokkor PF 1.7/55, MC Rokkor PF 1.9/55, Auto Tele Rokkor PG 2.8/135, MC Tele Rokkor QD 3.5/135, TC 4/135, MC Celtic 4/200, MC Tele Rokkor PE 4.5/200
MD 28-70 f3.5-4.8, MD Macro 35-70 f3.5, Md 70-210 f4, MD Rokkor X 75-200 f4.5, MD 100-200 f5.6
Nikon Nikkor 4/20, O Auto 2/35, S Auto 1.4/50..... Miranda Auto 2.8/28, Auto 2.8/35, Auto 1.4/50, Auto EC 1.4/50, Auto 1.8/50, Auto EC 1.8/50,Auto 1.9/50, Auto 3.5/135
Various Soligor,Sun,Fujita,Komura,Spitatone, etc. Lenses
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martyn_bannister
Joined: 23 May 2010 Posts: 1151
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Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 6:44 pm Post subject: |
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martyn_bannister wrote:
Neat idea. Not sure how well it would fare when diameters are very different |
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buerokratiehasser
Joined: 12 Jun 2011 Posts: 470
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Posted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 4:15 am Post subject: |
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buerokratiehasser wrote:
They also make some nice macro lenses for point and shoots, although this is basically a mechanical issue (their mount and lens hood makes it easy to hold and center them before the P&S lens, depending on model)
They make only weak loupes with focal lengths of 85mm or more, TV lenses (15-20 mm) are better |
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7788 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 9:08 pm Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
The Isco-Gottingen Projar 85mm f2.8 projector lens.
The two parts of the 'bodgit and run' lens. The lens itself has about 1mm thickness of of wide tape wrapped around the focusing thread so it's a tight fit in the 'female' part of the contraption.
Which is; a T2 Pentax mount that has the centre part removed ( or lost in my case ) and has a 50mm length of plastci tube jammed in and held with more tape. The tube is a piece of the cartridge that stuff like silicone sealant comes in, bathroom sealer.
The iside of the lens, showing the 'aperture'. This is a foam rubber thingy that comes in the packs of 100 DVD or CD discs and stops them vibrating in transit. But a bit of cardboard would suffice.
The lens in all its glory on my K10. As you can see the lens part slides, trombone like, in the part attached to the camera and allows focusing. The K10 actually registers the focus and the stop down lever determines the speed as it would with any manual lens.
Shot at about a distance of 1 meter, not bad ?
Again, this was about 1 meter away and shows the small DOF.
My favourite target, the church clock which is infinity on any lens. The thing that amazes me is the complete lack of fringing, which in shots like this I have had from well respected lenses. The sharpness is good as well, I've zoomed this and it's way better than expected.
These flowers were about 3 meters away, and I think this is a great shot considering the lens. I'm actually pleased with this.
_________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 11:49 pm Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Very nice mate, does indeed look like a good lens. I have a Rollei Vario-Projar I need to mount for my EOS, it's brand new but made in the early 70s, it was made by ISCO for Rollei so I hope it's as nice as that ISCO you have. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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martyn_bannister
Joined: 23 May 2010 Posts: 1151
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Posted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 3:56 am Post subject: |
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martyn_bannister wrote:
Lloydy - excellent results from a marvellous contraption. I suspect good lens to start with, combined with attention to detail in the mount, gives results like this. I also wonder how much the aperture helps the sharpness??? Certainly a keeper! |
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7788 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 5:38 pm Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
I will lock myself away in the 'Centre of Engineering Excellence' and manufacture a smaller aperture and see what the results are like. ( I'll cut some cardboard on the desk and try it ) _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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martyn_bannister
Joined: 23 May 2010 Posts: 1151
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Posted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 7:01 pm Post subject: |
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martyn_bannister wrote:
Men in sheds rule!!!! |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 8:29 pm Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
I have been trying out some homemade aperture disks on my huge Rathenower projector lens.
I like the effect this one gives:
I used a slot cutter in my dremel to cut up a baked bean tin lis then painted it matt black, works well.
I made a few others as well, fun to play with and creates strange effects sometimes.
_________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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RioRico
Joined: 12 Mar 2010 Posts: 1120 Location: California or Guatemala or somewhere
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 5:03 pm Post subject: |
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RioRico wrote:
iangreenhalgh1 wrote: |
I have been trying out some homemade aperture disks on my huge Rathenower projector lens. |
Which end of the lens -- front or rear? I'll guess, rear.
Oh yeah: VERY NIFTY! Now I must whip-out the old Dremel for some creative slashing!
And I'm reminded of stuff mentioned in the bible of pinholism, PINHOLE PHOTOGRAPHY: FROM HISTORIC TECHNIQUE TO DIGITAL APPLICATION by Eric Renner. For overlapping images, use multiple pinholes -- like fitting multiple lenses into one body. For stretched images, use a thin slit rather than a single pinhole. For multiple stretched images, use parallel slits. For multiple-axis stretched images, use intersecting slits. I must try those approaches with aperture discs, front and rear, yes I must. _________________ Too many film+digi cams+lenses, oh my -- Pentax K20D, K-1000, M42s, more
The simple truth is this: There are no neutral photographs. --F-Stop Fitzgerald |
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martyn_bannister
Joined: 23 May 2010 Posts: 1151
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 5:34 pm Post subject: |
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martyn_bannister wrote:
would be interesting to see the effect on the bokeh of a hole, but with "ninja star" edges........ |
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