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Mir
Joined: 07 Feb 2011 Posts: 979 Location: Montreal, Canada
Expire: 2017-09-30
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Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 5:52 am Post subject: Enlarger lens |
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Mir wrote:
Some of these enlarging lenses you can get for a song...
I'm not shure how usefull they can be.... outside of a darkroom....
Can they be used for macro, with a bellows ??
Are any of them recommended ??
How about E.ROKKORs.....
I'd appreciate your input....
Thanks _________________ "Obsta principiis, finem respice"
"There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness"
MISC: Tamron SP 35-80 (01A), Auto Chinon Tomioka 1.4/55, Tokina AT-X 2.5/90, Tamron SP 5,6/300 (54B)
ZEISS: WG Distagon 2.8/25, WG Distagon 2.8/35 HFT, WG Planar HFT 1.4/50, Ultron 1.8/50, WG Sonnar 2.8/85, WG Sonnar HFT 2.8/135
VOIGTLÄNDER : Ultron Aspherical 1.8/21, Ultron 2/28, Nokton Aspherical 1.2/35, Nokton Classic 1.4/40, Nokton Aspherical 1.5/50, Color-Heliar 2.5/75
MINOLTA: MD 3.5/35-70 Macro, MD 1.2/50, MC Rokkor-X 1.2/58, MD Macro 3.5/50
LEITZ: SUMMICRON-R 2/35 (II), SUMMICRON-R 2/50 (II), TELE ELMARIT-M 2,8/90 (Thin)
CANON RF: 2.8/28, 2/35, 1.2/50, 1.4/50, Serenar 1.8/50, 2/85, 2/100, 3.5/100
LTM : FUJINON L 2/5cm, CHIYODA KOGAKU SUPER ROKKOR 1.8/5cm, CHIYOKO SUPER ROKKOR C 2/5cm, TOKYO KOGAKU Topcor-S 2/5cm, Nippon Kogaku NIKKOR-H.C 2/5cm, KMZ Jupiter-8 2/5cm
DKL : VOIGTLÄNDER SKOPAREX 3,4/35, SEPTON 2/50, DYNAREX 3,4/90, SUPER-DYNAREX 4/135, Scheiner-Kreuznach Retina-Xenon 1,9/50
And a small Minolta AF set: 2.8/20, 1.4/35, 1.4/50, 2/100, 4.5/100-200
@we3fotography
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6950 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 6:10 am Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
I use many M39 mount enlarger lenses on bellows. My bellows are M42 so I just use a step ring. If you get 80mm lenses, they allow shooting at infinity. _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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Mir
Joined: 07 Feb 2011 Posts: 979 Location: Montreal, Canada
Expire: 2017-09-30
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Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 6:13 am Post subject: |
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Mir wrote:
Great !!
Thanks Martin _________________ "Obsta principiis, finem respice"
"There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness"
MISC: Tamron SP 35-80 (01A), Auto Chinon Tomioka 1.4/55, Tokina AT-X 2.5/90, Tamron SP 5,6/300 (54B)
ZEISS: WG Distagon 2.8/25, WG Distagon 2.8/35 HFT, WG Planar HFT 1.4/50, Ultron 1.8/50, WG Sonnar 2.8/85, WG Sonnar HFT 2.8/135
VOIGTLÄNDER : Ultron Aspherical 1.8/21, Ultron 2/28, Nokton Aspherical 1.2/35, Nokton Classic 1.4/40, Nokton Aspherical 1.5/50, Color-Heliar 2.5/75
MINOLTA: MD 3.5/35-70 Macro, MD 1.2/50, MC Rokkor-X 1.2/58, MD Macro 3.5/50
LEITZ: SUMMICRON-R 2/35 (II), SUMMICRON-R 2/50 (II), TELE ELMARIT-M 2,8/90 (Thin)
CANON RF: 2.8/28, 2/35, 1.2/50, 1.4/50, Serenar 1.8/50, 2/85, 2/100, 3.5/100
LTM : FUJINON L 2/5cm, CHIYODA KOGAKU SUPER ROKKOR 1.8/5cm, CHIYOKO SUPER ROKKOR C 2/5cm, TOKYO KOGAKU Topcor-S 2/5cm, Nippon Kogaku NIKKOR-H.C 2/5cm, KMZ Jupiter-8 2/5cm
DKL : VOIGTLÄNDER SKOPAREX 3,4/35, SEPTON 2/50, DYNAREX 3,4/90, SUPER-DYNAREX 4/135, Scheiner-Kreuznach Retina-Xenon 1,9/50
And a small Minolta AF set: 2.8/20, 1.4/35, 1.4/50, 2/100, 4.5/100-200
@we3fotography
@7plus_pictures
@_whats.that.car_ |
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Minolfan
Joined: 30 Dec 2008 Posts: 3438 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 9:00 am Post subject: |
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Minolfan wrote:
Most usefull are the bettter level enlarger lenses, however even the cheapest deliver rather good results in macro. Enlarger lenses from Schneider, Rodenstock, Nikon and Minolta are great. Janpol 80mm is another attractive one as well as the better lenses from Meopta. |
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Mir
Joined: 07 Feb 2011 Posts: 979 Location: Montreal, Canada
Expire: 2017-09-30
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Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 3:35 pm Post subject: |
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Mir wrote:
@ Minolfan
I was looking at a MINOLTA E ROKKOR 75mm 1:4.5 LENS....
Would it be a good setup, on a bellows ?
Would 30 Euros be a fair price ?? _________________ "Obsta principiis, finem respice"
"There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness"
MISC: Tamron SP 35-80 (01A), Auto Chinon Tomioka 1.4/55, Tokina AT-X 2.5/90, Tamron SP 5,6/300 (54B)
ZEISS: WG Distagon 2.8/25, WG Distagon 2.8/35 HFT, WG Planar HFT 1.4/50, Ultron 1.8/50, WG Sonnar 2.8/85, WG Sonnar HFT 2.8/135
VOIGTLÄNDER : Ultron Aspherical 1.8/21, Ultron 2/28, Nokton Aspherical 1.2/35, Nokton Classic 1.4/40, Nokton Aspherical 1.5/50, Color-Heliar 2.5/75
MINOLTA: MD 3.5/35-70 Macro, MD 1.2/50, MC Rokkor-X 1.2/58, MD Macro 3.5/50
LEITZ: SUMMICRON-R 2/35 (II), SUMMICRON-R 2/50 (II), TELE ELMARIT-M 2,8/90 (Thin)
CANON RF: 2.8/28, 2/35, 1.2/50, 1.4/50, Serenar 1.8/50, 2/85, 2/100, 3.5/100
LTM : FUJINON L 2/5cm, CHIYODA KOGAKU SUPER ROKKOR 1.8/5cm, CHIYOKO SUPER ROKKOR C 2/5cm, TOKYO KOGAKU Topcor-S 2/5cm, Nippon Kogaku NIKKOR-H.C 2/5cm, KMZ Jupiter-8 2/5cm
DKL : VOIGTLÄNDER SKOPAREX 3,4/35, SEPTON 2/50, DYNAREX 3,4/90, SUPER-DYNAREX 4/135, Scheiner-Kreuznach Retina-Xenon 1,9/50
And a small Minolta AF set: 2.8/20, 1.4/35, 1.4/50, 2/100, 4.5/100-200
@we3fotography
@7plus_pictures
@_whats.that.car_ |
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MacTak
Joined: 15 Jun 2011 Posts: 108
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Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 4:45 pm Post subject: |
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MacTak wrote:
I've tried a couple on bellows and extension tubes. They can be an excellent option. If you already have the bellows, adaptors, etc. then they really represent a great bargin, but otherwise I'd reccomend a regular macro lens, as they are easier to work with and by the time you buy all the other stuff....
Others have given you a good list of brands--I'd just add Fujinon-Ex to that list (their highest quality enlargers). As to the other brands, make sure you get their top tier models (with prices today, there's really not much reason not to)--for Schneider that the Componon-S, for Rodenstock that's the Rodagon. These are all 6 element designs. For Nikon look up the lens to see if it's 6 elements. I think the C.E. Rokkor's from Minolta are supposed to be the good ones, as I recall the E series are cheaper, 4-element designs. I'd also advise you to get the more recently produced ones for a given brand--the newer El-Nikkors have a much improved coating and so to the others (usually you can tell by how the barrel looks). Also, buy the way, almost none of the Componon's are M39 (unlike the others), so do keep that in mind. |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 4:54 pm Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Yes, only one of my 5 Schneider enlarger lenses is in M39, the rest are M24 I think.
Stepper rings are available, two of my schneiders came with them already attached.
Bellows are not so expensive, new ones from hong kong are 25-30ukp but I prefer the older all metal ones. I have three of them, two Russian ones and a brandless smaller compact one I use for handheld work. I paid less than 10ukp inc shipping for each.
I am waiting for someone to produce a cheap helicoid, there is definitely a large market for them, whenever you see a schneider or Mamiya helicoid on ebay it attracts a lot of bids! _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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Mir
Joined: 07 Feb 2011 Posts: 979 Location: Montreal, Canada
Expire: 2017-09-30
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Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 7:15 pm Post subject: |
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Mir wrote:
Thank you guys for all this info.....
I own a Macro VIVITAR 55/2.8.....
but using it at 1:1 brings the subject to close to the lens, except maybe
for flowers .....
I can always use any other of my 30 or so lenses, with
extension tubes... and i do....
But i wanted a bellows set up....
So i'll use all your input to do things right...
Thanks again _________________ "Obsta principiis, finem respice"
"There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness"
MISC: Tamron SP 35-80 (01A), Auto Chinon Tomioka 1.4/55, Tokina AT-X 2.5/90, Tamron SP 5,6/300 (54B)
ZEISS: WG Distagon 2.8/25, WG Distagon 2.8/35 HFT, WG Planar HFT 1.4/50, Ultron 1.8/50, WG Sonnar 2.8/85, WG Sonnar HFT 2.8/135
VOIGTLÄNDER : Ultron Aspherical 1.8/21, Ultron 2/28, Nokton Aspherical 1.2/35, Nokton Classic 1.4/40, Nokton Aspherical 1.5/50, Color-Heliar 2.5/75
MINOLTA: MD 3.5/35-70 Macro, MD 1.2/50, MC Rokkor-X 1.2/58, MD Macro 3.5/50
LEITZ: SUMMICRON-R 2/35 (II), SUMMICRON-R 2/50 (II), TELE ELMARIT-M 2,8/90 (Thin)
CANON RF: 2.8/28, 2/35, 1.2/50, 1.4/50, Serenar 1.8/50, 2/85, 2/100, 3.5/100
LTM : FUJINON L 2/5cm, CHIYODA KOGAKU SUPER ROKKOR 1.8/5cm, CHIYOKO SUPER ROKKOR C 2/5cm, TOKYO KOGAKU Topcor-S 2/5cm, Nippon Kogaku NIKKOR-H.C 2/5cm, KMZ Jupiter-8 2/5cm
DKL : VOIGTLÄNDER SKOPAREX 3,4/35, SEPTON 2/50, DYNAREX 3,4/90, SUPER-DYNAREX 4/135, Scheiner-Kreuznach Retina-Xenon 1,9/50
And a small Minolta AF set: 2.8/20, 1.4/35, 1.4/50, 2/100, 4.5/100-200
@we3fotography
@7plus_pictures
@_whats.that.car_ |
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MacTak
Joined: 15 Jun 2011 Posts: 108
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Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 7:23 pm Post subject: |
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MacTak wrote:
Considering you already have a 1:1 macro lens at 55mm, I'd say go with a longer focal length enlarger lens (80-135mm). My 135mm El-Nikkor certainly gives me a lot of room to work. |
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RioRico
Joined: 12 Mar 2010 Posts: 1120 Location: California or Guatemala or somewhere
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Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 11:16 pm Post subject: |
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RioRico wrote:
I use enlarger, projector, copy, process, medium-format, and various other lenses on bellows and/or tubes. (Lenses longer than 100mm may also need tubes to reach adequate extension on bellows.) All my bellows and tubes are cheap! Expensive lenses are fine; cheap lenses can give good or great or weird results also.
Keep in mind that non-camera lenses often aren't coated, aren't designed to have light enter their fronts, so it's always good to use a lens hood. Some shooters say they get better results by reversing the lenses. I haven't tried that yet. And some such lenses have weird or no front threads, so reversing or hooding may be tricky.
The rule for macro shooting is that shorter lenses let you work close, while longer lenses allow (or force) you to work further away. On my bellows, lenses longer than 80mm can reach infinity focus. If you want to also shoot non-macro, look for lenses between 90mm and 160mm. Longer focal lengths can be clumsy to use. _________________ Too many film+digi cams+lenses, oh my -- Pentax K20D, K-1000, M42s, more
The simple truth is this: There are no neutral photographs. --F-Stop Fitzgerald
Last edited by RioRico on Sat Jun 18, 2011 3:06 am; edited 1 time in total |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 12:05 am Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
+1 to all Rico said!
I second the thought on the necessity of a hood with these lenses, great example if this Schneider Componon-S 100mm I have, it works a treat mounted in a simple extension tube that also allows focusing but flares like hell and suffers from low contreast, I had to PP these shots to increase contrast because I didn't use a hood, wouldn't use this lens without one in future.
Those are poor samples but the lens is very very sharp from corner to corner and for a 100mm lens really does a surprising amount of perspective crushing as it's designed to project a flat field image. The drawbacks are I don't know if it's even got any coatings, it flares like hell and has low contrast but a hood should help a lot in that regard and you can always increase contrast in PP. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 12:15 am Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
While nearly all enlarger lenses will produce a sharp picture, they usually don't have anything unusual about their rendering.
However, projectors lenses are often the opposite - not that sharp but often something unusual about the way they render.
Some however just plain suck. Take this Aldis Anastigmat 85mm f2.5, it's not sharp in the slightest, has awful contrast and fringes very badly in both green and magenta. It's from the days when most people with a slide projector were projecting 35mm BW holiday snaps and just doesn't handle colours well. I go so far as to say I hate the pics it takes.
_________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6950 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 10:57 am Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
How are you converting your images? The Schneider is a very sharp lens, yet your samples look soft again. Is your shutter speed high enough for the focal length and are you using any focus aids? _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 12:48 pm Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
There's either something wrong with you or your eyes, no lack of sharpness.
I'm going to stop posting pics, everything is soft. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6950 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 10:42 pm Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
I should make personal insults at me as that will make your images sharper.
I am merely pointing out that your images aren't doing your lens tests justice. If you want to show a lens is sharp then post a sharp sample. Failing that carry on insulting me if it makes you feel better. It doesn't have much effect on me though.
P.S my eyesight is fine and I don't wear specs. _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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ChromaticAberration
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 819 Location: Portugal
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Posted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 3:49 pm Post subject: |
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ChromaticAberration wrote:
With the exception of the third one I also think they are not sharp, unless of course it is the lens itself. The first and last one clearly show either missed focus or plain simple lack of sharpness. _________________ Body: Fujifilm X-E1
Landscapes: Samyang 12mm f/2 NCS CS
Macro: Vivitar Series 1 105mm Æ’/2.5
Portrait: Helios-44 58mm Æ’/2.0
Low-light: SMC Takumar 50mm Æ’/1.4
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 6:56 am Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
iangreenhalgh1 wrote: |
There's either something wrong with you or your eyes, no lack of sharpness.
I'm going to stop posting pics, everything is soft. |
Please, avoid using offensive language.
Nobody has offended you.
(Mod.) _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
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Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
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