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newton
Joined: 10 Mar 2011 Posts: 343 Location: USA
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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 3:08 pm Post subject: Canon L and Nikkor AF series vs. MFL |
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newton wrote:
I am wondering how people would grade the Canon L AF series lenses with some of their manual focus lenses. I have spent well over enough to buy a few Canon L series AF lenses. I spent that money on MFL's. I am wondering if anyone would trade some of their best MFL's for a top-notch L series, like the Canon 85 1.2 mm L or even a Canon 70-200 mm L f/2.8 USM II zoom.
This is more about where is the best place to put their money, if they could only spend X amount of dollars budgeted for the rest of the year(s)/investment. Would you get a bunch of different MFL's or one or two "great" L series lenses, assuming they are "great". This purchase is specifically for pro use, where the L's and Nikkors seem to be or are incorrectly perceived to be dominant, as they are in my community? Low-light and fast photography. I know some MFL's are superior like Voigtlander Nokton, Zeiss (the list goes on....), but I am writing in general...like if they could only buy one lens, kinda thing. Thanks.
(Pardon me if this question may not be so clear, as I struggle to learn and understand more.) |
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NikonD
Joined: 29 Jul 2008 Posts: 1922 Location: Slovenija
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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 3:55 pm Post subject: |
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NikonD wrote:
I'm not selling any of my lenses for any Nikkor AF, not even 24-70/2.8 or 70-200/2.8VRII... I'm in LOVE with my MF lenses, they give me everything I need and I don't need AF
besides it's fun to shoot with MF lens
Last edited by NikonD on Fri Apr 15, 2011 3:57 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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Joosep
Joined: 25 Jan 2010 Posts: 305 Location: Estonia, Tallinn
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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 3:56 pm Post subject: |
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Joosep wrote:
Ive almost used all of Canons EF L series. Wouldnt want to own one.
I just have too much fun with my boys.
I mean the build quality and focusing speed and coating and sharpness is wonderful on some L´s, but to me, they lack character. Thats all there is to me. _________________ The future is analogue.
23 cameras, 25 lenses and counting. |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 4:01 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
Joosep wrote: |
I mean the build quality and focusing speed and coating and sharpness is wonderful on some L´s, but to me, they lack character. Thats all there is to me. |
+1
The L lenses are "perfect" glass. But perfection often lacks personality, perfection is replaceable, perfection is boring. _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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francotirador
Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Posts: 894
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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 4:44 pm Post subject: |
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francotirador wrote:
Joosep wrote: |
Ive almost used all of Canons EF L series. Wouldnt want to own one.
I just have too much fun with my boys.
I mean the build quality and focusing speed and coating and sharpness is wonderful on some L´s, but to me, they lack character. Thats all there is to me. |
+1 _________________ Canon 5D II-Sony nex 6
Canon L 80-200 f 2.8 - Canon L 135 f2 - Canon FD 135/2.5 convert to EOS - Yashica 50 1.4 ML - Canon FD 50 1.2 - Distagon 35mm 2.8 T AEJ - Minolta MC 24mm f 2.8 - Canon LTM 85 1.9- Canon LTM 85mm 1.9 convert to EOS - Rodenstock Heligon 50 1.9 - Color Skopar 50 2.8 & MAte Box & filters 4X4
Contax RTS II y Minolta SRT 303 - 28-135 3.6 Tokina - Minolta MD 45 f2.0 - Minolta Zoom 80 200 4.5 (Leica)
www.isgleasphoto.com
The life is more easy with this forum .... |
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Esox lucius
Joined: 26 Aug 2008 Posts: 2441 Location: Helsinki, Finland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 6:09 pm Post subject: |
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Esox lucius wrote:
I've worked hard over the years to finance and keep the best of both worlds:
Workhorses
Nikkor G-series AF-S lenses for technically excellent performance and handling designed for the Multi-CAM 3500 AF system. They deliver shots that would have been difficult to achieve with manual focusing, and have saved me from missing crucial moments at numerous wedding assignments. 24-70/2.8G is the most versatile tool I have, 50/1.4G is excellent in every way and the older screw-driven 28/1.4D delivers a look that is unique.
Brushes
Whenever I can and the scenario allows, I will always choose certain manual focus lenses because of the dimensionality and fingerprint. If it's too dark for AF to lock I have a higher success ratio with manual focusing lenses, favorites being the 58/1.4 Nokton, Planar T* 85/1.4 ZF, Macro APO Lanthar 125/2.5 and APO Lanthar 180/4.
It's a bit like affording to keep two cars: the sensible choice (station wagon with lots of torque) as well as a sporty and enjoyable spider or coupé. _________________ Vilhelm
Nikon DSLR: D4, D800, Nikon D3, D70
Nikon SLR: Nikon F100, Nikon FM2n
Nikkor MF: 20/2.8 Ai-S, 24/2 Ai-S, 24/2.8 Ai-S, 28/2 Ai-S, 28/2.8 Ai-S, 35/1.4 AIS, 35/2 Ai-S, 45/2.8 GN, 50/1.2 Ai, 50/1.2 Ai-S, 50/1.4 Ai, 50/1.4 Ai-S, 50/1.8 AI-S "long", 50/1.8 AI-S "short", 55/1.2 Ai, 85/1.4 Ai-S, 85/1.8H, 105/2.5 Ai, 135/2.8Q, 135/3.5 Ai, 180/2.8 Ai-S ED
Nikkor AF/AF-S FX: 14-24/2.8G, 16/2.8D Fisheye, 16-35/4G VR, 17-35/2.8D, 24/1.4G, 24/3.5D PC-E, 24/2.8D, 24-70/2.8G, 28/1.4D, 28/1.8G, 35/1.4G, 35/2D, 50/1.4D, 50/1.4G, 50/1.8G, 60/2.8 Micro, 60/2.8G Micro, 70-200/2.8G VR, 70-200/2.8G VR II, 80-400/4.5-5.6D VR, 85/1.4G, 85/2.8D PC-E Micro, 105/2D DC, 105/2.8G VR Micro, 135/2D DC, 200/2G VR, 200-400/4G VR, 300/2.8G VR, 300/4D ED, 400/2.8G VR, 800/5.6E VR
Nikkor AF/AF-S DX: 10.5/2.8G Fisheye, 12-24/4G, 18-70/3.5-4.5G
Topcor: Auto-Topcor 58/1.4,
Voigtländer SL: 40/2 Ultron, 58/1.4 Nokton, 75/2.5 Color-Heliar, 90/3.5 APO-Lanthar, 125/2.5 APO-Lanthar, 180/4 APO-Lanthar
Zeiss ZF: Planar T* 85/1.4 ZF
M42 SLR: Voigtländer Bessaflex TM
M42: Flektogon 20/4, Flektogon 35/2.4, Tessar 50/2.8 T, Super-Takumar 55/1.8, Biotar 58/2 T, Pentacon 135/2.8, Sonnar 135/3.5
Medium format: several Zeiss Super Ikonta 532/16 Opton-Tessar 80mm f/2.8, Zeiss Ikonta 524/16 Opton-Tessar 75mm f/3.5
Leica: R7, M4, Super-Angulon-R 4/21, Elmarit-R 2.8/28, Summicron-R 2/35, Summicron-M 2/35, Summicron-M 2/50, Elmarit-R 2,8/180 |
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rbelyell
Joined: 13 Oct 2009 Posts: 4269 Location: somewhere in the mountains of central NY
Expire: 2014-01-31
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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 7:50 pm Post subject: |
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rbelyell wrote:
i have a canon L 17-40/4.0. it is by far my most expensive lens, but is nowhere near my 'best' lens, in any sense. for sure it is a fine piece of equipment, but compared to better iq/less cost mf lenses, not worth anywhere near the money it commands. _________________ Epson RD1 + Elmarit 21/2.8; Summarit 50/1.5; Summarit 75/2.5; Elmar-c 90/4; Sankyo Komura 135/2.8, Hektor 135/4.5; Braun Paxina 29 6x6; Photax Boyer Paris; Holga 120 Pano
GREAT STUFF FOR SALE:
Contax T
Hasselblad XPan + 45/4, 90/4
Kodak Retina Reflex IV + full set of Schneider Krueznach lenses
Mercury 2 half frame 35mm
Kodak Pro slr/n
Fuji GM670+100/3.5+65/8!
Praktisix 6x6 medium format + ZeissBiometar 120/2.8
Bessa T 101 Anniversary Edition in Navy Blue
Mamiya Six Folder with Zuiko 75/3.5
Adaptall: Tamron SP 28-85 macro
Cameras: Canon IX
PM for more complete descriptions/pix. All in great shape!
_________________________
'buy me a drink, sing me a song,
take me as i come 'cause i can't stay long' |
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newton
Joined: 10 Mar 2011 Posts: 343 Location: USA
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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 8:59 pm Post subject: |
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newton wrote:
Yesterday, I tried one of my manual focus lenses. It is a Nikkor 1.2 AIS manual. I blew one quarter of my shots on a subject but still managed to shoot more sharply than any of my Canon lenses. Unfortunately, these shots are not good enough because manual focusing in a flat fashion wasn't perfect or my condenser glass needs to be changed badly. Very low lighting. I cannot afford to miss shots. Time is of the essence and I am wondering about a) newer glass like the L series fast lenses, b) my condensor, etc, or c) my skills with manual focus. Either way, I need something to be changed fast.
The Nikkor MFL's sharpness was great but not great enough, where I needed. I am wondering if the condensor/viewfinder needs to be changed. Everything looked sharp through the viewfinder but the images were not as perfect as I actually saw them or focused on them. Thoughts? Keep in mind this is the first time I am actually using my manual focus on my DSLR. I am still working out the kinks. Things are so different on a still object vs. a real live person. It seems like a whole new ball game. It could also be the Nikkor? I don't know.
(I am wondering if I should have bought the 85 mm L.) |
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Arninetyes
Joined: 24 Jun 2010 Posts: 312 Location: SoCal
Expire: 2013-03-26
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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 10:40 pm Post subject: |
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Arninetyes wrote:
NikonD wrote: |
I'm not selling any of my lenses for any Nikkor AF, not even 24-70/2.8 or 70-200/2.8VRII... I'm in LOVE with my MF lenses, they give me everything I need and I don't need AF
besides it's fun to shoot with MF lens |
I understand the sentiment completely! Still, I use AF some, mostly for documenting information at work or trying to capture moving subjects.
My wife is an artist who loves the convenience of zoom+AF, but often complains about focus while blaming the camera. My compositional skills can't match hers (yet). But some shots I get, AF simply won't allow (unless you know it well enough to trick it). She thinks I get these shots despite using MF primes. Some day, I'll have to confess that I get them partly because I am using MF! |
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jjphoto
Joined: 17 Mar 2009 Posts: 414
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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 11:28 pm Post subject: |
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jjphoto wrote:
For work there is really no substitute for a quick and efficient lens such as a zoom, or several of them. I use a 24-70/2.8 L for about 90% of my work even though I have a long list of Leica and Zeiss lenses that could potentially create much more interesting images if there were the time to 'play' with such things. Getting a job done usually requires expedience so the preference falls naturally to fast/efficient L zooms.
Interestingly, I also think that the Canon 24-70/2.8 L might have the best flare control of ANY lens that I have ever used so it is actually a better lens for certain applications than any of my Leica R or Zeiss glass (I shoot at night where flare can be a big problem)!
JJ |
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newton
Joined: 10 Mar 2011 Posts: 343 Location: USA
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 2:12 am Post subject: |
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newton wrote:
jjphoto wrote: |
For work there is really no substitute for a quick and efficient lens such as a zoom, or several of them. I use a 24-70/2.8 L for about 90% of my work even though I have a long list of Leica and Zeiss lenses that could potentially create much more interesting images if there were the time to 'play' with such things. Getting a job done usually requires expedience so the preference falls naturally to fast/efficient L zooms.
Interestingly, I also think that the Canon 24-70/2.8 L might have the best flare control of ANY lens that I have ever used so it is actually a better lens for certain applications than any of my Leica R or Zeiss glass (I shoot at night where flare can be a big problem)!
JJ |
I think I really need an L series lens. I just don't think I have the flexibility with demanding customers, no matter how good or bad I am. I took a chance on manual focus lenses. I do not know if I am hurting mysellf.
Last edited by newton on Sat Apr 16, 2011 11:07 am; edited 1 time in total |
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NikonD
Joined: 29 Jul 2008 Posts: 1922 Location: Slovenija
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 3:09 am Post subject: |
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NikonD wrote:
Arninetyes wrote: |
NikonD wrote: |
I'm not selling any of my lenses for any Nikkor AF, not even 24-70/2.8 or 70-200/2.8VRII... I'm in LOVE with my MF lenses, they give me everything I need and I don't need AF
besides it's fun to shoot with MF lens |
I understand the sentiment completely! Still, I use AF some, mostly for documenting information at work or trying to capture moving subjects.
My wife is an artist who loves the convenience of zoom+AF, but often complains about focus while blaming the camera. My compositional skills can't match hers (yet). But some shots I get, AF simply won't allow (unless you know it well enough to trick it). She thinks I get these shots despite using MF primes. Some day, I'll have to confess that I get them partly because I am using MF! |
well, I have to admit, sometimes I wish for an AF lens but it all comes down to price, I don't want to spend 1000€+ for a lens that does everything the same as my MF lens except it focuses automatically... and there's the plastic cheaper ones which some are excellent, but still they're plastic and won't last long...it all comes down to a conclusion for me: buy cheaper metal MF lenses that are equal or superior to, let's say, 2-3x the price of a plastic lens' that do the same... for me AF is irrelevant and that's the only plus that an AF lens has.. for me of course |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 3:12 am Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
newton wrote: |
The Nikkor MFL's sharpness was great but not great enough, where I needed. I am wondering if the condensor/viewfinder needs to be changed. Everything looked sharp through the viewfinder but the images were not as perfect as I actually saw them or focused on them. Thoughts? Keep in mind this is the first time I am actually using my manual focus on my DSLR. I am still working out the kinks. Things are so different on a still object vs. a real live person. It seems like a whole new ball game. It could also be the Nikkor? I don't know.
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What camera body are you using? It is a well-known issue with some Canon DSLRs that their focusing screens are designed such that it isn't possible to accurately focus manually with very fast glass. With my Canon, for example, it is not possible to get accurate focus using the viewfinder at apertures greater than f/4. So, with my 85mm f/1.2? Fuggedabouddit. The only way I'm able to achieve accurate focus with my Canon and shooting with fast glass at apertures greater than about f/4 is to use Live View. Otherwise it is completely hit-or-miss.
With some Canon DSLRs, this issue can be solved by swapping out the focusing screen. But not all. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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Himself
Joined: 01 Mar 2007 Posts: 3245 Location: Montreal
Expire: 2013-05-30
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 3:12 am Post subject: |
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Himself wrote:
jjphoto wrote: |
Interestingly, I also think that the Canon 24-70/2.8 L might have the best flare control of ANY lens that I have ever used .... |
I concur.
Very happy with the 70-200 2.8 IS L also. _________________ Moderator Himself |
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james
Joined: 25 Sep 2009 Posts: 308
Expire: 2011-12-28
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 3:39 am Post subject: |
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james wrote:
Esox lucius wrote: |
Workhorses
...and the older screw-driven 28/1.4D delivers a look that is unique.
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Wondering what you mean by this.
From the examples I've seen, the lens has lower contrast than the standard Nikkor, almost Leica-like. From my reading, there's much controversy about it's sharpness wide open; some rave while the crabby Rörslett isn't impressed. Not sure what to believe. |
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jjphoto
Joined: 17 Mar 2009 Posts: 414
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 7:49 am Post subject: |
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jjphoto wrote:
newton wrote: |
jjphoto wrote: |
For work there is really no substitute for a quick and efficient lens such as a zoom, or several of them. I use a 24-70/2.8 L for about 90% of my work even though I have a long list of Leica and Zeiss lenses that could potentially create much more interesting images if there were the time to 'play' with such things. Getting a job done usually requires expedience so the preference falls naturally to fast/efficient L zooms.
Interestingly, I also think that the Canon 24-70/2.8 L might have the best flare control of ANY lens that I have ever used so it is actually a better lens for certain applications than any of my Leica R or Zeiss glass (I shoot at night where flare can be a big problem)!
JJ |
I think I really need an L series lens. I just don't think I have the flexibility with demanding customers, no matter how good or bad I am. I took a chance on manual focus lenses. I do not know if I am hurting mysellf. |
Sure, there are some things about "L" lenses that are usefull, such as 77mm filters wherever possible and weather sealing, but this has more to do with the intended market (pro's) and their needs.
JJ
Last edited by jjphoto on Sat Mar 16, 2013 1:00 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Esox lucius
Joined: 26 Aug 2008 Posts: 2441 Location: Helsinki, Finland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 8:28 am Post subject: |
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Esox lucius wrote:
Esox lucius wrote: |
Workhorses
...and the older screw-driven 28/1.4D delivers a look that is unique.
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james wrote: |
Wondering what you mean by this.
From the examples I've seen, the lens has lower contrast than the standard Nikkor, almost Leica-like. From my reading, there's much controversy about it's sharpness wide open; some rave while the crabby Rörslett isn't impressed. Not sure what to believe. |
Anyone raving about the 28/1.4D sharpness wide open has never used the lens, it is useable for web size only if shot wide open. At f/2 however, the center detail suddenly jumps to excellent, and edges are very good, corners good. It also paints shadow detail better than any other lens in the same focal length that I have compared it to (at f/5.6 and f/8 vs. the 28/2 ZF, 24-70/2.8G, 17-35/2.8D, 24/2.8D, 24/2.8 Ai-S).
I agree with mr. Rörslett's assessment if the lens is used for nature, landscapes and the like - there are better tools for that. But, for indoor use and brigthly lit stage light, it is a different assessment: It is a lens which delivers indoors, available light, concerts or long exposures where you need shadow detail. When shooting weddings I always pick it up for indoors low light, and that is where it shines in my opinion, giving great dimensionality as well as that nice and not often seen wide-angle with shallow depth of field -look.
If you're shooting stopped down long exposures or shoot in daylight both the 17-35/2.8D and 24-70/2.8G outperform the 28/1.4D. See my signature for samples and head to head comparison pics. _________________ Vilhelm
Nikon DSLR: D4, D800, Nikon D3, D70
Nikon SLR: Nikon F100, Nikon FM2n
Nikkor MF: 20/2.8 Ai-S, 24/2 Ai-S, 24/2.8 Ai-S, 28/2 Ai-S, 28/2.8 Ai-S, 35/1.4 AIS, 35/2 Ai-S, 45/2.8 GN, 50/1.2 Ai, 50/1.2 Ai-S, 50/1.4 Ai, 50/1.4 Ai-S, 50/1.8 AI-S "long", 50/1.8 AI-S "short", 55/1.2 Ai, 85/1.4 Ai-S, 85/1.8H, 105/2.5 Ai, 135/2.8Q, 135/3.5 Ai, 180/2.8 Ai-S ED
Nikkor AF/AF-S FX: 14-24/2.8G, 16/2.8D Fisheye, 16-35/4G VR, 17-35/2.8D, 24/1.4G, 24/3.5D PC-E, 24/2.8D, 24-70/2.8G, 28/1.4D, 28/1.8G, 35/1.4G, 35/2D, 50/1.4D, 50/1.4G, 50/1.8G, 60/2.8 Micro, 60/2.8G Micro, 70-200/2.8G VR, 70-200/2.8G VR II, 80-400/4.5-5.6D VR, 85/1.4G, 85/2.8D PC-E Micro, 105/2D DC, 105/2.8G VR Micro, 135/2D DC, 200/2G VR, 200-400/4G VR, 300/2.8G VR, 300/4D ED, 400/2.8G VR, 800/5.6E VR
Nikkor AF/AF-S DX: 10.5/2.8G Fisheye, 12-24/4G, 18-70/3.5-4.5G
Topcor: Auto-Topcor 58/1.4,
Voigtländer SL: 40/2 Ultron, 58/1.4 Nokton, 75/2.5 Color-Heliar, 90/3.5 APO-Lanthar, 125/2.5 APO-Lanthar, 180/4 APO-Lanthar
Zeiss ZF: Planar T* 85/1.4 ZF
M42 SLR: Voigtländer Bessaflex TM
M42: Flektogon 20/4, Flektogon 35/2.4, Tessar 50/2.8 T, Super-Takumar 55/1.8, Biotar 58/2 T, Pentacon 135/2.8, Sonnar 135/3.5
Medium format: several Zeiss Super Ikonta 532/16 Opton-Tessar 80mm f/2.8, Zeiss Ikonta 524/16 Opton-Tessar 75mm f/3.5
Leica: R7, M4, Super-Angulon-R 4/21, Elmarit-R 2.8/28, Summicron-R 2/35, Summicron-M 2/35, Summicron-M 2/50, Elmarit-R 2,8/180 |
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Cistron
Joined: 25 Feb 2011 Posts: 238 Location: London/Vienna
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 10:06 am Post subject: |
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Cistron wrote:
Esox lucius wrote: |
I agree with mr. Rörslett's assessment if the lens is used for nature, landscapes and the like |
I think that is his main concern for all his lens reviews, which is a reason to read it a bit like Ken Rockwell Palaver -- with a great snort of salt. Funny how a couple of people turn into internet review gods, when most of the pictures they present are so-so. |
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Esox lucius
Joined: 26 Aug 2008 Posts: 2441 Location: Helsinki, Finland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 10:42 am Post subject: |
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Esox lucius wrote:
Well, having met mr. Rorslett and read his posts on Nikongear I have no reason to doubt his assessments. KR on the other hand writes reviews even before the lens has touched his hands.
I had at one point two 28/1.4D's and they were identical. That lens is built for nocturnal use and it shows.
There are plenty of samples in my signature, everyone can judge themselves how much they like the lens or not. I don't care what reviewers say, it's a lens I'll pick for any indoor tungsten assignment. _________________ Vilhelm
Nikon DSLR: D4, D800, Nikon D3, D70
Nikon SLR: Nikon F100, Nikon FM2n
Nikkor MF: 20/2.8 Ai-S, 24/2 Ai-S, 24/2.8 Ai-S, 28/2 Ai-S, 28/2.8 Ai-S, 35/1.4 AIS, 35/2 Ai-S, 45/2.8 GN, 50/1.2 Ai, 50/1.2 Ai-S, 50/1.4 Ai, 50/1.4 Ai-S, 50/1.8 AI-S "long", 50/1.8 AI-S "short", 55/1.2 Ai, 85/1.4 Ai-S, 85/1.8H, 105/2.5 Ai, 135/2.8Q, 135/3.5 Ai, 180/2.8 Ai-S ED
Nikkor AF/AF-S FX: 14-24/2.8G, 16/2.8D Fisheye, 16-35/4G VR, 17-35/2.8D, 24/1.4G, 24/3.5D PC-E, 24/2.8D, 24-70/2.8G, 28/1.4D, 28/1.8G, 35/1.4G, 35/2D, 50/1.4D, 50/1.4G, 50/1.8G, 60/2.8 Micro, 60/2.8G Micro, 70-200/2.8G VR, 70-200/2.8G VR II, 80-400/4.5-5.6D VR, 85/1.4G, 85/2.8D PC-E Micro, 105/2D DC, 105/2.8G VR Micro, 135/2D DC, 200/2G VR, 200-400/4G VR, 300/2.8G VR, 300/4D ED, 400/2.8G VR, 800/5.6E VR
Nikkor AF/AF-S DX: 10.5/2.8G Fisheye, 12-24/4G, 18-70/3.5-4.5G
Topcor: Auto-Topcor 58/1.4,
Voigtländer SL: 40/2 Ultron, 58/1.4 Nokton, 75/2.5 Color-Heliar, 90/3.5 APO-Lanthar, 125/2.5 APO-Lanthar, 180/4 APO-Lanthar
Zeiss ZF: Planar T* 85/1.4 ZF
M42 SLR: Voigtländer Bessaflex TM
M42: Flektogon 20/4, Flektogon 35/2.4, Tessar 50/2.8 T, Super-Takumar 55/1.8, Biotar 58/2 T, Pentacon 135/2.8, Sonnar 135/3.5
Medium format: several Zeiss Super Ikonta 532/16 Opton-Tessar 80mm f/2.8, Zeiss Ikonta 524/16 Opton-Tessar 75mm f/3.5
Leica: R7, M4, Super-Angulon-R 4/21, Elmarit-R 2.8/28, Summicron-R 2/35, Summicron-M 2/35, Summicron-M 2/50, Elmarit-R 2,8/180 |
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sichko
Joined: 20 Jun 2008 Posts: 2475 Location: South West UK
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 11:16 am Post subject: |
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sichko wrote:
Cistron wrote: |
I think that is his main concern for all his lens reviews....
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...and in the case you don't know, I prefer taking pictures instead of testing equipment, so make sure you visit the other sections of my site as well, to learn more about my images. They are the real end for which any lens is just the means to achieve
Bjørn Rørslett - http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_surv.html
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... with a great snort of salt. |
I have firm views on many lenses, but these points of view are never an universal truth, thus the actual needs and shooting habits of the user should be factored into the equation as well. For example, if a lens is downrated because it doesn't perform well for a given task (which may be important to me) and you intend to use it otherwise, that of course can override any objection of mine. My intention is to provide means for any user to draw his or hers own conclusions and make the appropriate decisions based thereon.
Bjørn Rørslett - http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_surv.html _________________ John |
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Cistron
Joined: 25 Feb 2011 Posts: 238 Location: London/Vienna
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 11:23 am Post subject: |
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Cistron wrote:
sichko wrote: |
Cistron wrote: |
I think that is his main concern for all his lens reviews....
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...and in the case you don't know, I prefer taking pictures instead of testing equipment, so make sure you visit the other sections of my site as well, to learn more about my images. They are the real end for which any lens is just the means to achieve
Bjørn Rørslett - http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_surv.html
Quote: |
... with a great snort of salt. |
I have firm views on many lenses, but these points of view are never an universal truth, thus the actual needs and shooting habits of the user should be factored into the equation as well. For example, if a lens is downrated because it doesn't perform well for a given task (which may be important to me) and you intend to use it otherwise, that of course can override any objection of mine. My intention is to provide means for any user to draw his or hers own conclusions and make the appropriate decisions based thereon.
Bjørn Rørslett - http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_surv.html |
Yes, I see my words were very harsh. I didn't intend to insult Mr Roerslett and I like his comments on lenses, but I follow his advice on how to use them. |
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AhamB
Joined: 22 Jun 2008 Posts: 733 Location: Germany
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 1:36 pm Post subject: |
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AhamB wrote:
newton wrote: |
I think I really need an L series lens. I just don't think I have the flexibility with demanding customers, no matter how good or bad I am. I took a chance on manual focus lenses. I do not know if I am hurting myself. |
If you end up not liking an L lens it shouldn't be a great problem because they have good resale value. There's also many places where you can rent them. |
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gaeger
Joined: 16 Jan 2010 Posts: 722 Location: Brier, Wash.
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 2:33 pm Post subject: |
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gaeger wrote:
As to the original question: What lens you buy in a given year would greatly depend on what you're going to do with it. You mention low light and fast photography. Are you shooting sports in dimly light arenas or tight street scenes at night? You need very different lenses for those situations. Also, what lenses do you have now that can do those jobs? I've shot at night with the lowly Nikkor 18-55mm, with a maximum aperture of f3.5 -- that's not 'fast' by most people's standards.
As far as cost/quality, an inexpensive lens in practiced hands is better than the most expensive lens in fumbling hands. My advice would be: If you think your photos aren't good enough, practice more, experiment, shoot, shoot, shoot. Buying a different lens, while fun, won't make the difference. _________________ "Here's to the wonder" -- Alan Boyle
Nikkor/Nikon 20, 24, 28, 35, 50, 55, 85, 105, 135, 180, 200, 300, 10-20, 18-35, 18-55, 28-50, 28-70, 24-85, 35-200, 50-300, 75-150, 80-200, 70-210, 70-300, 200-500
Minolta Rokkor 24, 28, 35, 45, 50, 58, 100, 135, 50-135, 300
My most interesting images | Full photostream
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NikonD
Joined: 29 Jul 2008 Posts: 1922 Location: Slovenija
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 4:11 pm Post subject: |
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NikonD wrote:
gaeger wrote: |
As far as cost/quality, an inexpensive lens in practiced hands is better than the most expensive lens in fumbling hands. My advice would be: If you think your photos aren't good enough, practice more, experiment, shoot, shoot, shoot. Buying a different lens, while fun, won't make the difference. |
+1 |
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james
Joined: 25 Sep 2009 Posts: 308
Expire: 2011-12-28
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 6:53 pm Post subject: |
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james wrote:
Cistron wrote: |
Yes, I see my words were very harsh. I didn't intend to insult Mr Roerslett.... |
...if you've ever followed the dialogue at nikongear.com, you quickly learn that Rörslett has no problem insulting others...or entire nationalities...
....notwithstanding this unfortunate character flaw, he is one of the few reviewers who base their opinions on (extensive) honest, real-life shooting instead of musing upon theoretical MTF charts. I would put Lloyd Chambers in the same category.
Esox lucius wrote: |
Anyone raving about the 28/1.4D sharpness wide open has never used the lens, it is useable for web size only if shot wide open. At f/2 however, the center detail suddenly jumps to excellent, and edges are very good, corners good. It also paints shadow detail better than any other lens in the same focal length that I have compared it to (at f/5.6 and f/8 vs. the 28/2 ZF, 24-70/2.8G, 17-35/2.8D, 24/2.8D, 24/2.8 Ai-S)...It is a lens which delivers indoors, available light, concerts or long exposures where you need shadow detail. When shooting weddings I always pick it up for indoors low light, and that is where it shines in my opinion, giving great dimensionality as well as that nice and not often seen wide-angle with shallow depth of field -look. |
Have you tried the 24/1.4 G and if so, how does it compare in your view? |
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