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newton
Joined: 10 Mar 2011 Posts: 343 Location: USA
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Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 11:33 am Post subject: Question about Mamiya lenses |
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newton wrote:
I have two Mamiya 55 mm f/1.4 manual lenses. One is an SX; the other non-SX. The non-SX Auto has a yellowish tint to the glass. The SX is crystal clear. Is the yellowish tint part of the coating, if there is one? Why is there a yellowish tint? Is the lens damaged from sun as some one posted online or is it naturally the coat color? What is the difference between the two lenses? Is white balancing needed? |
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Andrew G.
Joined: 18 Jul 2010 Posts: 159 Location: Pennsylvania, USA
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Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 11:47 am Post subject: |
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Andrew G. wrote:
If you look through the lens and see a yellow tint, it probably isn't the coating.. it's far more likely that the lens has [radioactive] Thorium glass, which turns yellow over time. This can be treated and reversed with UV light. _________________
DSLR: Nikon D40x
SLR: Nikon N2000, Nikomat FTn
Glass:
Nikon:28mm f/2.8 Ai, 28mm f/2.8 Ai-S, 2.8cm f/3.5 F, 28mm f/3.5 Ai-S, 50mm f/1.8 Ai, (2) 50mm f/1.8 Series E, 55mm f/3.5 Micro K, 55mm f/3.5 Micro Ai, 100mm f/2.8 Series E, 105mm f/2.5 F, 105mm f/2.5 Ai, 105mm f/2.5 Ai-S, 200mm f/4 Ai-S, Process-Nikkor 260mm f/10, TC-200
Third-Party: Vivitar 28mm f/2.5 preset, Vivitar 28mm f/2.5 TX, Tamron 28mm f/2.8 Adapt-A-Matic (v. 1), Vivitar 35mm f/1.9 (Canon FD), Vivitar 35mm f/2.8 T4, Tamron 135mm f/2.8 Adapt-A-Matic, Vivitar 135mm f/3.5 preset, Vivitar 200mm f/3.5, Soligor 200mm f/3.5 T4, Star-D 500mm f/8 Mirror, Sigma 15-30mm f/3.5-4.5 AF, Tamron 28-70mm f/3.5-4.5 Adaptall-2 (44A), Hanimex 35-70mm f/2.8-3.8, [x2] Tamron SP 35-80mm f/2.8-3.8 Adaptall-2 (01A), Tokina AT-X 50-250mm f/4-5.6, Soligor 55-135mm f/3.5 T4, Vivitar 70-150mm f/3.8 (one-touch), Vivitar 75-205mm f/3.8 (one-touch), Soligor C/D 78-210mm f/3.5, Soligor C/D 100-300mm f/5
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William
Joined: 26 Nov 2009 Posts: 489 Location: London
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Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 1:29 pm Post subject: |
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William wrote:
Bearing in mind that you have two, I'd use the yellowed one when you want that golden cast on your images, as long as it's not too heavy it can be a pleasing effect. If you use it very heavily in the sun the cast should go away over time, assuming that this lens is thoriated. |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 2:39 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
I would bet that the AWB will delete any golden cast in your images. _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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newton
Joined: 10 Mar 2011 Posts: 343 Location: USA
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Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 4:42 pm Post subject: |
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newton wrote:
Thank you. What is the difference between the SX series and the non-SX? Do the latter lenses have a multi-coat, understanding that the yellow is due to the sulfur in thorium? If I leave it out in the sun, it should turn clear again? The yellow does have a very pleasing antiquated look, but the subtle white balance distortion does mess with the normal eye and it's senses. |
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 3705 Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 7:10 pm Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
Try UV lamp rather. Sun will warm-up lens too much and you might damage it. One of the best M42 Mamiya for me. _________________ ---------------------------------
The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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ramiller500
Joined: 20 Nov 2007 Posts: 124 Location: Indianapolis, IN, USA
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Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 7:11 pm Post subject: |
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ramiller500 wrote:
I think there is still a lot of confusion between yellowed glass and yellowish coatings.
Any lens model suspected of radioactivity should be properly metered by a competent professional to establish how much if any radiation it emits vs. background level. I'm fed up with the blog rumor mill even if its allegations are sometimes correct. _________________ Sincerely,
Bob Miller |
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newton
Joined: 10 Mar 2011 Posts: 343 Location: USA
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Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 9:11 pm Post subject: |
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newton wrote:
Wait, there are actually radioactive lenses? Damn, those Japanese sure were clever. . |
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mo
Joined: 27 Aug 2009 Posts: 8979 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-07-30
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Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 9:12 pm Post subject: |
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mo wrote:
I have the 1.8/55 mamiya non SX,It has the yellow cast to it but it produces lovely images.Check out/compare both mounts I am sure the SX mount may have a little extra on it that could cause problems on a pentax camera. _________________ Moira, Moderator
Fuji XE-1,Pentax K-01,Panasonic G1,Panasonic G5,Pentax MX
Ricoh Singlex TLS,KR-5,KR-5Super,XR-10
Lenses
Auto Rikenon's 55/1.4, 1.8, 2.8... 50/1.7 Takumar 2/58 Preset Takumar 2.8/105 Auto Takumar 2.2/55, 3.5/35 Super Takumar 1.8/55...Macro Takumar F4/50... CZJ Biotar ALU M42 2/58 CZJ Tessar ALU M42 2.8/50
CZJ DDR Flektogon Zebra M42 2.8/35 CZJ Pancolar M42 2/50 CZJ Pancolar Exakta 2/50
Auto Mamiya/Sekor 1.8/55 ...Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2.8/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 200/3.5 Tamron SP500/8 Tamron SP350/5.6 Tamron SP90/2.5
Primoplan 1.9/58 Primagon 4.5/35 Telemegor 5.5/150 Angenieux 3.5/28 Angenieux 3,5/135 Y 2
Canon FL 58/1.2,Canon FL85/1.8,Canon FL 100/3.5,Canon SSC 2.8/100 ,Konica AR 100/2.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5
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newton
Joined: 10 Mar 2011 Posts: 343 Location: USA
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Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 10:11 pm Post subject: |
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newton wrote:
Yep. I have to return the SX 55 mm 1.4 bc of that extra non circumcision. My non SX is the one with the yellow 'coat'. |
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estudleon
Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 3754 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 3:08 pm Post subject: |
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estudleon wrote:
1- The SX version is the last serie of M42 mamiya's lenses. In some lenses the sx have a different schame (F,e. in the 2,8/135 or in the case of the 200 mm lens too).
In the 1,4/55 lens, both have the same formula. They are the same lens. The difference is the coating.
2- If you see the yellowing cast looking the lens at reflection, the yellow is the coating (at the time the coating seems to be reflecting yellow and purple, to benefict the transmission of the blue and green waves).
3- And if the yellow cast is transmitted to the image (looking thru the lens the white things that there are behind the lens are seeing yellowish too), it's a radiactive lens.
4- Theoretically, the SX is the best of both and with great resale value.
Rino. _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
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newton
Joined: 10 Mar 2011 Posts: 343 Location: USA
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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 6:47 pm Post subject: |
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newton wrote:
Oh GREAT! Thanks this is exactly the clarification I was seeking.
My SX 1.4 has a lip that needs to be shaved off, because it jams the f-stop. It is crystal clear both on view and for white tables in pictures, for example. The non-SX fits right but is producing the yellow tinting, as you say due to radioactivity. It does have a yellowish coat but I think it goes beyond that.
All Mamiya's do have a unique quality about them. |
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