What fixer?

[Nesster]

I've been using Ilford Rapid Fixer, getting good results and it's been long lived... but I'm nearing the end of the bottle. So I figure, what else is there?

Anybody have favorite fixers? Rapid vs. regular, hardening or non-hardening? I'll only use it for film.

thanks

[Katastrofo]

Fomafix, $3.99 from Freestyle, think it's a me-too Ilford rapid fixer. Have
had good luck with it, although my luck may not be yours.

[cooltouch]

The only fixer I've ever used for the past 28 years or so is Kodak's Rapid Fixer. I see no reason to change, either. Really, I think that as long as the fixer does its job of, well, fixing, then one's about as good as the other. Developers will have much more of an influence on the outcome of your negatives than fixer will. (I'm assuming that most folks would want a hardening fixer, which is what KRF is.)

[ha_ xin_lin]

got the idea tks

[hexi]

I'm using Tetenal Superfix since i began to develop, works fine. Reusable at least 3 times.

[martinsmith99]

I use the Ilford fixer and it's worked 8 times so far but I do extend the fixing time a little (though I usually change after 6), so when it finishes I'll buy the same.

[Nesster]

Martin, I get more than 12 rolls out of each liter working solution of the Ilford Rapid - I'm probably pushing my luck a bit, but so far I've had no problems. I've also kept using the stock solution far longer than the 'stays good for' Ilford estimate...

I ended up buying the cheapest bottle B&H carries as I was replenishing my Neopan 400 stock, something called Zonal Pro EC Rapid Fixer

[piticu]

If you plan to mix your own fixer, i put together some formulas (still work in progress): http://ergpif.eu/formulas/category/fixers/

[Seele]

Hardening fixer might be preferable for some films with more delicate emulsions when wet, but it takes longer to wash afterwards. But it is not preferable with prints at all. And for prints, a rapid fixer based on ammonium, is preferable with baryta paper.

So for the OP: it depends on whether you want a hardening fixer or not. Once decided, then do a cost calculation: see how many standard area units (i.e. an area of 8"X10", which equals to four sheets of 4"X5", one roll of 36-exposure 35mm film, and one roll of 120) a given volume of working solution can do, and then calculate the cost to make one litre of working solution. Then you can figure out which is the least costly fixer on a per standard area basis.

[cooltouch]

[piticu]

for caffenol family of dev, there is http://www.caffenol.org/