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pulatom
Joined: 01 Dec 2010 Posts: 109 Location: Wroclaw, Poland
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Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 11:24 pm Post subject: Front element separation? |
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pulatom wrote:
I've noticed a strange "traces" on the front element of my Cyclop 85/1.5, it looks like this:
It appeared after cleaning the front element with IPA cleaner, is it possible that it damaged the element gluing? If so, will it grow worse over time? It certainly doesn't affect the lens performance now, but I'm afraid it might get bad . _________________ "Any good modern lens is corrected for maximum definition at the larger stops. Using a small stop only increases depth..." Ansel Adams
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Andrew G.
Joined: 18 Jul 2010 Posts: 159 Location: Pennsylvania, USA
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Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 11:47 pm Post subject: |
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Andrew G. wrote:
Looks more like fungus. |
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Sevo
Joined: 22 Aug 2008 Posts: 1189 Location: Frankfurt, Germany
Expire: 2012-12-03
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Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 11:55 pm Post subject: |
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Sevo wrote:
If it appeared after a isopropyl treatment of the front lens, it will at the very least be alcohol-induced dirt creep behind the front element. If you are unlucky, it is cement fogging (cyanoacrylates are are rather vulnerable to solvents), in the worst case even separation.
It probably will not grow and the surface seems to be small enough that it will not make a visible difference, but it will have damaged the resale value. Don't take alcohol to lenses, unless they are disassembled and you are in control of where it flows. There are very good reasons why the classic Kodak lens cleaner is water based. _________________ Sevo |
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pulatom
Joined: 01 Dec 2010 Posts: 109 Location: Wroclaw, Poland
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Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 9:57 am Post subject: |
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pulatom wrote:
Thx, if I only knew about alcohol cleaning risks before... It's good that I haven't tried it with the rest of my glasses . _________________ "Any good modern lens is corrected for maximum definition at the larger stops. Using a small stop only increases depth..." Ansel Adams
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aoleg
Joined: 22 Feb 2008 Posts: 1387 Location: Berlin, DE
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Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 11:44 pm Post subject: |
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aoleg wrote:
+1 to what Sevo said. If you manage to take out the front glass element and clean both sides, the stains will most probably go away. And no, it is NOT separation, as this lens has a single lens element on the front:
_________________ List of lenses |
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Mal1905
Joined: 30 Oct 2008 Posts: 1705 Location: Dublin, Ireland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 8:09 am Post subject: |
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Mal1905 wrote:
Looks like fungus to me - I've had lenses which displayed that pattern. Easy to treat though; cold cream works well. _________________
Canon EOS 5D / EOS 40D
Carl Zeiss Jena: Flektogon 2.8/20, 2.4/35, 2.8/35, Pancolar 2/50, MC 1.8/50, MC 1.8/80, Triotar 4/135, Tessar 2.8/50, S 4/135 1Q, S 3.5/135, Sonnar 3.5/135 MC, 2.8/180, Biotar 2/5,8cm, 2/58, 1.5/75
Carl Zeiss: Distagon 2/28 T*, 1.4/35 T*, Ultron 1.8/50, Tessar 2.8/50, Planar 1.4/50 T* MM, 1.7/50 T* MM, 1.4/85 T* AEG, Sonnar 2.8/135 T*
Asahi Optical Co.: Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 2.8/120, 2.5/135 I & II, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4/300, 5.6/400, 4/45-125, 4.5/85-210, Super-Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4.5/70-150, Fish-Eye-Takumar 4/17, Macro-Takumar 4/50, Super-Macro Takumar 4/50, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-Takumar 4/50, 4/100, Bellows-Takumar 4/100, Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 3.5/50, 2.4/58, 3.5/100, Asahi-Kogaku Tele-Takumar 3.5/135, Auto-Takumar 2.3/35, 3.5/35, 1.8/55, 1.8/55 (Zebra), 2/55, 2.2/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, Takumar 4/35, 2.2/55, 2/58, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 5.6/200, 6.3/300, SMC Takumar 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, SMC-M 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 2/50
Tomioka: Tominon 2/5cm, Auto-Chinon 3.5/21, 1.4/55, Auto-Yashinon DS-M 1.2/55 |
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 3705 Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 10:03 am Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
Nothing removes fungus better then glass cleaners with under 5% ammonia. If your Cyclop is genuine you don't have to worry about any damage. Tested. BTW your fungus is a baby, you can even leave it to grow for few years without worries . _________________ ---------------------------------
The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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pulatom
Joined: 01 Dec 2010 Posts: 109 Location: Wroclaw, Poland
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Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 10:34 am Post subject: |
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pulatom wrote:
aoleg wrote: |
+1 to what Sevo said. If you manage to take out the front glass element and clean both sides, the stains will most probably go away. And no, it is NOT separation, as this lens has a single lens element on the front:
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Thanks, that's a load out of my mind . If I only manage to unscrew the front ring I'll clean it. Just wonder how to get such an unusual wrench to catch it . _________________ "Any good modern lens is corrected for maximum definition at the larger stops. Using a small stop only increases depth..." Ansel Adams
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 3705 Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 10:54 am Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
Nothing so special. I think most needs this: Click here to see on Ebay.de
to unscrew. _________________ ---------------------------------
The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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pulatom
Joined: 01 Dec 2010 Posts: 109 Location: Wroclaw, Poland
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Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 8:57 am Post subject: |
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pulatom wrote:
Nice one, I'll see if I can get my hands on something like this . _________________ "Any good modern lens is corrected for maximum definition at the larger stops. Using a small stop only increases depth..." Ansel Adams
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kds315*
Joined: 12 Mar 2008 Posts: 16643 Location: Weinheim, Germany
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 9:25 am Post subject: |
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kds315* wrote:
I would NOT touch it as you won't see the difference in your photos; it is just cosmetic
but the risk to make a permanent damage is much higher IMHO. _________________ Klaus - Admin
"S'il vient a point, me souviendra" [Thomas Bohier (1460-1523)]
http://www.macrolenses.de for macro and special lens info
http://www.pbase.com/kds315/uv_photos for UV Images and lens/filter info
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kds315/albums my albums using various lenses
http://photographyoftheinvisibleworld.blogspot.com/ my UV BLOG
http://www.travelmeetsfood.com/blog Food + Travel BLOG
https://galeriafotografia.com Architecture + Drone photography
Currently most FAV lens(es):
X80QF f3.2/80mm
Hypergon f11/26mm
ELCAN UV f5.6/52mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f4/60mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f2/62mm
Lomo Уфар-12 f2.5/41mm
Lomo Зуфар-2 f4.0/350mm
Lomo ZIKAR-1A f1.2/100mm
Nikon UV Nikkor f4.5/105mm
Zeiss UV-Sonnar f4.3/105mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f1.8/45mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f4.1/94mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f2.8/100mm
Steinheil Quarzobjektiv f1.8/50mm
Pentax Quartz Takumar f3.5/85mm
Carl Zeiss Jena UV-Objektiv f4/60mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha II f1.1/90mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha I f2.8/200mm
COASTAL OPTICS f4/60mm UV-VIS-IR Apo
COASTAL OPTICS f4.5/105mm UV-Micro-Apo
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f4.5/85mm
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f5.6/300mm
Rodenstock UV-Rodagon f5.6/60mm + 105mm + 150mm
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pulatom
Joined: 01 Dec 2010 Posts: 109 Location: Wroclaw, Poland
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Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 10:16 am Post subject: |
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pulatom wrote:
Maybe you're right, tinkering might be risky because I never done it before. If it won't grow I'll just leave it to be . _________________ "Any good modern lens is corrected for maximum definition at the larger stops. Using a small stop only increases depth..." Ansel Adams
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 3705 Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 12:00 pm Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
It will grow unless you put it under UV light for a while. _________________ ---------------------------------
The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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pulatom
Joined: 01 Dec 2010 Posts: 109 Location: Wroclaw, Poland
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Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 11:34 am Post subject: |
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pulatom wrote:
How long should it be exposed to the UV to kill it if it's a little fungus? Something like 15 minutes or longer? _________________ "Any good modern lens is corrected for maximum definition at the larger stops. Using a small stop only increases depth..." Ansel Adams
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Joosep
Joined: 25 Jan 2010 Posts: 305 Location: Estonia, Tallinn
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Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 12:48 pm Post subject: |
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Joosep wrote:
Leave it for a few days. _________________ The future is analogue.
23 cameras, 25 lenses and counting. |
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pulatom
Joined: 01 Dec 2010 Posts: 109 Location: Wroclaw, Poland
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Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 1:27 pm Post subject: |
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pulatom wrote:
I was thinking about putting it under an UV lamp (the weather ain't too sunny in PL now ), but it can be only turned on for 15 min. Could this do the trick, or should I expose it several times? _________________ "Any good modern lens is corrected for maximum definition at the larger stops. Using a small stop only increases depth..." Ansel Adams
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Sert85
Joined: 25 Jun 2010 Posts: 8
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Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 12:35 pm Post subject: |
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Sert85 wrote:
It's looks like fungus to me. If it's the new fungus you can get rid of it by lens cleaning solution. But if it's the old fungus, Pond cold cream can do this job. _________________ I love Manual Focus lenses |
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pulatom
Joined: 01 Dec 2010 Posts: 109 Location: Wroclaw, Poland
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Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 11:06 am Post subject: |
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pulatom wrote:
Just sold my fungused Cyclop with an IR device and bought a new one, that's probably the best solution . _________________ "Any good modern lens is corrected for maximum definition at the larger stops. Using a small stop only increases depth..." Ansel Adams
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