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stingOM
Joined: 27 Sep 2007 Posts: 3168 Location: Ireland
Expire: 2012-12-27
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Posted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 7:07 pm Post subject: Zeiss Ikon Nettar 515 MF camera advice |
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stingOM wrote:
Is this a good starter/budget camera? The one I am looking at has Novar Anastigmat 7.5cm f4.5 lens for <£20
I already have a Yashica 635 and have some experience shoot MF already. Some samples of Yashica 635 shoots on 120 negatives
What is the IQ like?
Thanks.
Last edited by stingOM on Wed Jan 12, 2011 8:18 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 8:13 pm Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
Are those from the 515 or is that what you are comparing it with?
There is no right answer to your question because the cameras vary so much. A good Nettar will give excellent results, one that isn't so well adjusted won't.
I think it is important always to wind on immediately before shooting to ensure that you have the film tight against the film gate, particularly as opening the bellows can create enormous suction (so always open them gently).
Here's a shot from a 516 (which is the 515 with a double exposure lock), the conditions were far from ideal for this sort of camera, it was a very long exposure hand-held with a wide aperture, while trying to climb over the crowd of P&S shooters.
The lens on this camera is a simple Novar triplet.
The 515 is pre-1940 and I'm sure it isn't really a step up from the Yashica. It certainly makes you think very carefully about what you are doing - if you want to get anything worth having out of it. _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 8:50 pm Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
+1 on that. The folder will give you a more-or-less vintage look, depending on the particular sample of the lens, especially if it is not from the '50s. The Yashica on the other hand is fairly modern in its look; you might gain, but not all that much, with a more modern camera.
That isn't to say that shooting with a folder isn't fun and liberating.
Your TLR is more general-purpose and applicable to more situations.
My advice? if you have the money, go ahead and try it out! My list of favorite cameras has surprisingly many vintage folders on it, and I wouldn't feel bad if I had to use one as my only camera. _________________ -Jussi
Camera photos
Print Photographica
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Banjo
Joined: 25 Jun 2009 Posts: 75 Location: Oz (Near Adelaide)
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Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 12:44 am Post subject: |
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Banjo wrote:
Nice, appealing shot, PaulC. |
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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 6:48 am Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
A bit under-exposed as you can see from the noise but I was already shooting on something like 1/15 with an 80mm lens, I couldn't imagine getting away with anything less than that. _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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std
Joined: 09 Feb 2010 Posts: 1826 Location: Bulgaria
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Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 8:24 am Post subject: |
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std wrote:
I have 2 nettars and they are both outstanding cameras - it you find them in a good condition they are very good cameras for a small price. |
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wupdigoj
Joined: 18 Mar 2010 Posts: 85
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Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 8:42 am Post subject: |
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wupdigoj wrote:
The camera is very cute, simple but very well made IMO. Many people obtain outstanding results from novar lenses, but in my case the results were vastly poorer than those coming from tessar clones (belar, skopar, industar). Sample variation, I suppose
Javier |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5043 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 8:46 am Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
What 515 version you would get? Plain 515 is a jewel but I like the square picture format of my 515/16 too and it is still so small it fits into pocket. _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 9:42 am Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
I think that with negatives this size, the lens quality is very much secondary to other factors. Let's face it, you can't even focus accurately with them, you rely on guesswork, so you tend to stop down to compensate for focusing errors. At f8 or f11, how much difference will there be between a Tessar and a triplet? Hardly any.
What's more, hand-held there is a good chance of getting slight camera shake even up at around 100/s, maybe not enough to be obvious but enough to (literally) blur any difference in lens quality.
The real issue is going to be the calibration of the lens and whether all the elements are properly aligned. That can be good or bad with any type of lens.
Another thing is that what holds true for the Nettar is also true of most other folders. They all work well as long as the bellows are light tight, the shutter accurate(ish) and the lens well-adjusted (and the film is fairly slow, ISO 400 tends to get fogged from the rear window). Apparently Agfa bellows are made of material that rots but Zeiss Ikon, Welta, Voigtlander, Franka and Ensign don't seem to be particularly at risk from that. _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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Banjo
Joined: 25 Jun 2009 Posts: 75 Location: Oz (Near Adelaide)
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:40 am Post subject: |
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Banjo wrote:
PaulC wrote: |
A bit under-exposed as you can see from the noise ... |
In a book (published circa 1980) John Hedgecoe suggests trying deliberate underexposure for atmospheric effect. In your shot (above) it seems to have worked.
A recent film (Fuji Pro H 400 ISO) I shot was accidentally underexposed by about two and a half stops (due to a TTL meter fault and my own silliness -I should have realized from basic principles) .
However, my photo processor was able to print all the negatives for me.
Even though they were quite dark and "moody", they had a lot of character and were rather striking. Actually, I was quite pleased with the overall old-worldly, painterly result. |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 11:38 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
I did like almost any of my folders better than Yashica 124G. IQ wasn't bad from Yashica, just subjective impression was better.
Plenty of samples here .
http://www.mflenses.com/gallery/v/filmcamera/german/? _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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hanskerensky
Joined: 10 Apr 2010 Posts: 27 Location: Limburg, The Netherlands
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Posted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 1:51 pm Post subject: |
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hanskerensky wrote:
I have a 515/16 (post-war) and whilst it is a rather simple folder with the Novar-Anastigmat 75mm f6,3 it produces outstanding photos with that nice classic "look".
You can see the camera here :
http://www.flickr.com/photos/29504544@N08/4000674368/in/set-72157622560079952/ _________________ -------------------------------------------------------
See my Flickr pages <a>here</a> |
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Banjo
Joined: 25 Jun 2009 Posts: 75 Location: Oz (Near Adelaide)
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Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 1:37 am Post subject: |
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Banjo wrote:
hanskerensky wrote: |
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I have a more recent (c 1957, budget) model. I had it CLA'd and have yet to finish off my first film. I like your shot and hope my results are near as good. |
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hanskerensky
Joined: 10 Apr 2010 Posts: 27 Location: Limburg, The Netherlands
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Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 6:40 am Post subject: |
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hanskerensky wrote:
Thanks Banjo !
Probably your folder is not a 515/16 as these were only produced till about 1949. But never mind, folders are allways fun _________________ -------------------------------------------------------
See my Flickr pages <a>here</a> |
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Banjo
Joined: 25 Jun 2009 Posts: 75 Location: Oz (Near Adelaide)
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Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 12:22 am Post subject: |
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Banjo wrote:
I think mine may be a Nettar II, 517/16.
The lens mount and some other parts appear to be made of Aluminium. |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5043 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 8:56 am Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
515/16 has a folding viewfinder. Also it reads "515/16" on the back of the camera. _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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Banjo
Joined: 25 Jun 2009 Posts: 75 Location: Oz (Near Adelaide)
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Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 11:48 pm Post subject: |
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Banjo wrote:
Yep, mine is a 517/16, it says so on the back. No frills whatever, not even double exposure prevention lock: it does keep you on your toes.
I'll get my first film D&P'd tomorrow, then we'll see how we went. |
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Banjo
Joined: 25 Jun 2009 Posts: 75 Location: Oz (Near Adelaide)
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Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 12:25 am Post subject: |
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Banjo wrote:
Well, put a roll of 120 Fuji Portra 100 ISO through my Nettar 517/16 and have the prints.
First, the incident reading based exposure (using a Gossen Pro-F handheld meter) was very acceptable, especially as some guesswork was involved since the relatively few shutter speeds available on the Nettar's shutter didn't exactly correspond one-to-one to the ones provided by the meter.
Then, another little difficulty was the flap on the Nettar's ever-ready case, which sneakily got in the way of the taking lens obliterating large areas of the scene in several frames.
One further problem was forgetting to allow for parallax in a couple of close shots, resulting in cutting off the subjects head. Fortunately, these were mostly the same frames that were also affected by the flap of the ever-ready case, so I got two for one there.
On the other hand, not one double exposure: so I'm ahead there.
The remaining six or seven shots came out most gratifying: good rich colours with a period feel to them.
I have already reloaded and am trying hard to remember to avoid the previous traps.
Although I shot hand-held (easy with the in-lens shutter) so far, this time I am using a monopod (very convenient with this camera) in order to take more trouble over the composition and framing.
BTW, some of the metal parts (wind on knob, focusing scale, lens mount ring) were somewhat affected by "dirt" and tarnish, when I first got the camera. All this was easily fixed by some rubbing: first with an eraser (as in pencil), then with a commercially available jewellery polishing cloth (for use with gold or silver items). Looks "as good as new", now. |
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hanskerensky
Joined: 10 Apr 2010 Posts: 27 Location: Limburg, The Netherlands
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Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 6:31 am Post subject: |
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hanskerensky wrote:
Good show Banjo !
btw It's quite normal that the times on a leaf shutter are not that accurate.
I normally first run a testroll with a "new" camera by shooting the same subject 3 times. 1x as indicated by my lightmeter, 1x 1 stop overexposed, 1x 1 stop underexposed. In that way you'll find the relation between lightmeter and shutter quickly. _________________ -------------------------------------------------------
See my Flickr pages <a>here</a> |
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Banjo
Joined: 25 Jun 2009 Posts: 75 Location: Oz (Near Adelaide)
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Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 10:41 pm Post subject: |
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Banjo wrote:
Good advice, Hans.
Thanks. |
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