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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 7:35 am Post subject: Beier ? Precisa? (turns out to be a Welta Perle) |
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PaulC wrote:
Is anybody familiar with the Beier Precisa 4.5x6 folders?
I picked up this Click here to see on Ebay hoping it might be a user but on reflection the open red windows probably say it isn't - particularly as the earliest Precisa I can find on the net appears to have a system for closing the windows when they are not in use, so the company must have recognised a problem. The back is almost identical to the Nettar 510 from 1934, but the fast f2.9 lens and Compur shutter seem quite impressive for the time, even if it is as late as 1937. All the Precisas seem to be fitted with f2.9 lenses but usually Rodenstock Trinars not Steinheil Cassars. _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan
Last edited by PaulC on Wed Sep 29, 2010 4:40 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 12:13 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
No idea. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 2:11 pm Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
Unfortunately, seems like the photos are no longer available, or at least I can't see them at work.
The fact that there aren't sliding covers for the red windows doesn't necessarily make the camera unworthy. For example my 1933 Ikomat 520 doesn't have window covers. What you do, if it isn't already in place, is to make grommets out of felt or foam and stick them around the windows. If that doesn't help enough, you can replace the ruby windows with a darker red material, e.g. from plastic bits you can buy at any office supply store. And, finally, make flaps out of black electrician's tape.
My Ikomat gets along fine with just the felt grommets (or would you call them doughnuts?) _________________ -Jussi
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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 4:00 pm Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
Here are a few pix:
Nice little case, too. Very handy. And all for $25. _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 4:11 pm Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
That back does look an awful lot like my 520, right down to the Zeiss bumps... if yours doesn't have the doughnuts around the two windows, it's easy to do and makes a big difference. I don't get a light leak / impression with ASA 400 film. _________________ -Jussi
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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 4:39 pm Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
No doughnuts - odd sort of pressure plate, I can't quite work it out. Is that like a 520, too, if the Zeiss bumps are in the same place?
I've got black velvet, I guess that would do nicely.
_________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 6:45 pm Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
I'll take some pics of mine when I get home. Felt works great, the hardest bit is to get it situatied right, unless you can see a way to remove the pressure plate. _________________ -Jussi
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 12:54 pm Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
Paul, here's the insides of the 520. Someone before had put in the felt - the felt partially covers the red windows, leaving enough open to see the film back numbers.
Zeiss Ikomat innards and Weston's California by Nesster, on Flickr
And here are the Zeiss bumps - this one has two large ones while yours has a few smaller ones.
Ikomat as cartoon character by Nesster, on Flickr
BTW, someone had put tape inside the door with the hint: "Arrow just disappearing in first window = 17 shots" which I've yet to put into practice _________________ -Jussi
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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 1:11 pm Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
Getting the back off doesn't look feasible, does it? I wonder if it is possible to pack the stuff in through the holes. _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 1:51 pm Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
Some folders have small screws that hold one side of the pressure plate leaf springs - if yours is one like that, you're in luck. Otherwise, tweezers, and use the John Goodman instruction to lick the adhesive first should do the trick. Press down using the pressure plate. _________________ -Jussi
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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 8:02 pm Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
Thanks. I just have to wait for it to arrive now. _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 3:34 pm Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
It's here and it's an odd beast. There doesn't seem to be a single marking on it. The leather is impressed with a border identical to that on my Welta Garant, as if room was left to stamp in a model name but they forgot to do it.
And ... lo and behold! It turns out (after a quick search) to be a Welta Perle! I have a feeling that's a fairly well-regarded camera. I wonder how it ended up without any markings.
The back plate seems to run the whole length of the film between the covers on the roll holders, so maybe light leaks won't be a problem. I'll have to give it a try to find out.
The lens is excellent, crystal clear, the aperture works and the shutter is working on all speeds (but probably a bit slow - 1 second seems more like 1.5 seconds) except T and B when it simply refuses to cock.
I guess that is a question for the repair forum. _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 3:55 pm Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
Actually, your shutter works as it should. You don't cock the shutter on B and T - just press the shutter and it opens - for as long as you press in B and until you press a second time in T. Direct action, no springs involved
Hope to see samples from this beasty soon _________________ -Jussi
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 4:10 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Nesster wrote: |
Actually, your shutter works as it should. You don't cock the shutter on B and T - just press the shutter and it opens - for as long as you press in B and until you press a second time in T. Direct action, no springs involved
Hope to see samples from this beasty soon |
Yes, works on this way on simpliest shutters. Today I bought a Welta Weltax with excellent Xenar lenses and works on this fine, shop assistant did kindly warn me B is not works well. I did show to him this is just fine so I am happy owner of MINT camera _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 4:39 pm Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
I've put in a roll of Reala and I'll try to fill it up with something and get it developed tomorrow.
It has a something about it that says it is one of the better quality folders. The winding handle and door catch seem to have had a bit of abuse but everything else appears to be in excellent working order and the shutter has a really strong, snappy feel to it. _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 5:25 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
I look forward your result! _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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std
Joined: 09 Feb 2010 Posts: 1826 Location: Bulgaria
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Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 5:38 pm Post subject: |
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std wrote:
Interesting topic guys.
I've a question here.
Just got an Nettar 515/2 6x9 yesterday and it has this ruby window also, but no closing lid.
Is it safe to use it like this ? or i have to put an electric tape on top of it. |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 5:47 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
std wrote: |
Interesting topic guys.
I've a question here.
Just got an Nettar 515/2 6x9 yesterday and it has this ruby window also, but no closing lid.
Is it safe to use it like this ? or i have to put an electric tape on top of it. |
Not safe, many camera have window only, like early Bessa cameras.
I use my finger to cover it under exposition, don't need tape , important to cover only if shutter is open. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 6:00 pm Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
Attila, why do you figure the red window's only a hazard during exposure?
The uncovered window is a light leak source would come from 2 mechanisms --- 1) light goes through the backing paper and 2) light leaks around the back, around the paper, and onto the film.
#2 is addressed by the felt donut, #1 by electrical tape... Funny enough, the only camera I've had red light leak (on color film) was a Certo Super Sport Dolly that actually has a cover for the two red windows... but no felt on the inside. Seems enough light leaked around while the windows were open to register on the film. _________________ -Jussi
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std
Joined: 09 Feb 2010 Posts: 1826 Location: Bulgaria
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Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 6:00 pm Post subject: |
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std wrote:
Thanks Atilla. Can you explain why it should be closed only when shooting?
I think that from this window the red light can pass to the paper where the numbers and arrows are printed.. not directly the film. But maybe some reflected light will pass on the other side? Red should be safe for BW i guess..
Strange I have another Nettar with a lid from early 50-ies i guess.
This 515/2 should be older .. maybe prewar. The lens is 11 cm f 4.5 Nettar Anastigmat with Compur shutter and there is a serial on it 1178636. |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 6:04 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
No idea why, but works , safe enough. I used my Bessa at Teneriffe under African Sun at day time, trouble free and I covered only under exposition. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Sevo
Joined: 22 Aug 2008 Posts: 1189 Location: Frankfurt, Germany
Expire: 2012-12-03
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Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 7:09 pm Post subject: |
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Sevo wrote:
std wrote: |
Interesting topic guys.
I've a question here.
Just got an Nettar 515/2 6x9 yesterday and it has this ruby window also, but no closing lid.
Is it safe to use it like this ? or i have to put an electric tape on top of it. |
Permanently open red windows were considered safe back when common film was in the 12-40 ASA range and fast one was 100 ASA. It should be safe enough up to 100 ISO if you use the camera leather case and/or avoid exposing the back to direct sunlight. For faster film, get that tape...
And be warned, the paper backings on ultra fast and IR film are not supposed to provide adequate protection against light from a red window. And at least as of some years ago EFKE film had a somewhat minimal paper backing as well, and would have been only marginally suitable for cameras with red light window.
Sevo _________________ Sevo |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 7:35 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Nesster wrote: |
Attila, why do you figure the red window's only a hazard during exposure?
The uncovered window is a light leak source would come from 2 mechanisms --- 1) light goes through the backing paper and 2) light leaks around the back, around the paper, and onto the film.
#2 is addressed by the felt donut, #1 by electrical tape... Funny enough, the only camera I've had red light leak (on color film) was a Certo Super Sport Dolly that actually has a cover for the two red windows... but no felt on the inside. Seems enough light leaked around while the windows were open to register on the film. |
It is coming from my experience I never use higher ISO than 160 and I didn't get trouble, certainly to cover it all time no big deal. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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