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lulalake
Joined: 22 Apr 2007 Posts: 1191 Location: Near Austin Texas
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 1:30 am Post subject: Processing Negatives With Coffee |
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lulalake wrote:
Hi,
Developing Negatives in coffee is more involved than most developers but the results are worth using it from time to time. It tends to take a much longer time in preparation and actual processing.
The following is what I’ve found works best for me. It can be done more simply however if done carefully, the results are as good and/or better than anything out there in my opinion.
Materials. :
1: Coffee.
I have found that Instant coffee tends to be more effective than ground coffee. I’ve used both and though ground coffee works well, instant works better.
2: Washing Soda. (Sodium Carbonate)
In the US this is available at larger grocery stores in the laundry soap sections. It’s very inexpensive and not very toxic though you don’t want to drink it. DO NOT use baking soda (Sodium bicarbonate) it will not work.
Note: Sodium Carbonate is a wetting agent so you don’t have to use any wetting agents in the developer.
3. Vitamin C.
This is optional however it reduces the time in developing by about 1/3 and seems to help bind the stain to the negative. I’ve processed with and without vitamin C and now I always use it.
Note: I recommend Vitamin C crystals as they have no binding material as do Vitamin C tablets. Health food stores usually carry this although you may need to order it on the Internet.
4. Benzotriazole: Optional also, an Anti fogging agent, available in the US at the Photographers Formulary and probably many other places where one gets darkroom chemicals.
Note: Benzotriazole is not soluble in water, it requires ethyl (not denatured) alcohol so Everclear or any 180 proof white alcohol will work. I use Everclear (DO NOT use acetone as it may melt your negs).
Note: Benzotriazole is toxic so use it with caution, rubber or nitrile gloves and don’t breathe the fumes etc.
5. Distilled water if possible. In the US at regular supermarkets in the baby food section.
I mix up 1100ml total of the developer or so per batch as that is what my developing tank holds. This will develop three or 4 rolls of 35mm, two or three rolls of 120mm or six negs of 4x5 film. These are the amounts I regularly use.
Using this formula you will need three clean decanting bottles, a maximum of 750mil bottles plus one 1000ml+ mixing container. Old wine bottles are perfect but I prefer rum bottles (Ah well, another story there).
The recipe:
1. 16-17 rounded teaspoons (normal kitchen teaspoons) of instant coffee to 750ml of very hot water.
2. 6 ½ teaspoons (normal kitchen teaspoons) of washing soda to 300ml of very hot water
3. One gram of Benzotriazole to 100ml alcohol (room temp.)
4. ½ tsp Vitamin C crystal (1000mg).
The night before you will be actually processing the negatives. . . . . . .
1. Boil 700mm water, mix in the coffee. Pour the brew into a very clean 750mm bottle. Cork, screw on the top, whatever and set aside to cool and let the grains settle overnight.
2. Boil 300mm water and mix in 6 ½ teaspoons of Washing Soda. Swirl this around till it is completely dissolved. (A few minutes). It will be milky and somewhat yellow.
3. Add the vitamin C To the washing Soda, swirl around a bit. Cap and set aside to cool and let the grains settle overnight.
4. In a third bottle, mix one gram Benzotriazole (about ¾ teaspoon)to 100ml alcohol. Cover tightly and set aside.
Next Day when you are ready to process, have your negs ready. (I suggest a 2 minute wash of the negs before processing to get rid of the halation layer.)
Into the fourth separate very clean, 1000ml+ container, pour in about 90% of the coffee being careful not to add the grainy stuff at the bottom of the bottle. Same for the Washing Soda. Also add the Benzotriazole There will be no dregs in the Benzotriazole.
If it smells like old cooking oil you have done great.
Swirl for a few seconds and pour this mess into your developing tank.
Roughly 30 Min in this tank, one full agitation every two minutes, tapping to remove the air bubbles.
Stop bath with an acid stop bath, fix with any standard fixer, (I use Ilford quick fixer), wash for 15 minutes, the final wash using any wetting agent.
Hang up to dry and that’s it!
Jules |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11015 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 1:58 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Thank you so much for the nicely detailed instructions!
(filed for use later!) _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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lulalake
Joined: 22 Apr 2007 Posts: 1191 Location: Near Austin Texas
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 2:18 am Post subject: |
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lulalake wrote:
My pleasure |
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 2:36 am Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
Thanks, Jules, this needs to be a stickie. What's the shelf life on this
concoction? |
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lulalake
Joined: 22 Apr 2007 Posts: 1191 Location: Near Austin Texas
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 3:25 am Post subject: |
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lulalake wrote:
Katastrofo wrote: |
Thanks, Jules, this needs to be a stickie. What's the shelf life on this
concoction? |
As far as I know about 30 minutes. The Coffee and the Washing soda are very reactive and it's all over fairly qiuckly so it's a one shot deal. |
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lauge
Joined: 14 Jun 2008 Posts: 101 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Expire: 2013-05-30
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Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 9:16 pm Post subject: |
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lauge wrote:
Great guide Could you show some samples please? How is this compared with conventional developers, and how big is the difference from not using benzotriazole? _________________ M42:
S-M-C Takumar: 3.5/28 1.4/50 2.8/105
USSR: Industar 61L/Z
CZJ: Flektogon 2.4/35
MD:
Rokkor: 35-70/3.5
Kiron: 2.8/105 Macro
OM:
Zuiko: 50/1.8 75-150/4
Sigma: 24/2.8
Cameras:
Asahi Spotmatic F (looking for a sample with working light meter)
Olympus OM-1
Zeiss Ikon Contaflex IV
NEX 7 Sony A55 Konica Minolta Dynax 5D Minolta Dynax 7 Minolta AF 7000 |
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fish4570
Joined: 06 Jan 2010 Posts: 4514 Location: At the confluence of the Locust Fork of the Warrior River and Black Creek, Alabama
Expire: 2012-03-21
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Posted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 12:28 am Post subject: |
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fish4570 wrote:
Thanks for the recipe. _________________ Paul
I chase Light
http://blackcreekjournal.blogspot.com/ |
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patrickh
Joined: 23 Aug 2007 Posts: 8551 Location: Oregon
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 2:12 pm Post subject: |
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patrickh wrote:
Thank you Jules - excellent instructions
patrickh _________________ DSLR: Nikon D300 Nikon D200 Nex 5N
MF Zooms: Kiron 28-85/3.5, 28-105/3.2, 75-150/3.5, Nikkor 50-135/3.5 AIS // MF Primes: Nikkor 20/4 AI, 24/2 AI, 28/2 AI, 28/2.8 AIS, 28/3.5 AI, 35/1.4 AIS, 35/2 AIS, 35/2.8 PC, 45/2.8 P, 50/1.4 AIS, 50/1.8 AIS, 50/2 AI, 55/2.8 AIS micro, 55/3.5 AI micro, 85/2 AI, 100/2,8 E, 105/1,8 AIS, 105/2,5 AIS, 135/2 AIS, 135/2.8 AIS, 200/4 AI, 200/4 AIS micro, 300/4.5 AI, 300/4.5 AI ED, Arsat 50/1.4, Kiron 28/2, Vivitar 28/2.5, Panagor 135/2.8, Tamron 28/2.5, Tamron 90/2.5 macro, Vivitar 90/2.5 macro (Tokina) Voigtlander 90/3.5 Vivitar 105/2.5 macro (Kiron) Kaleinar 100/2.8 AI Tamron 135/2.5, Vivitar 135/2.8CF, 200/3.5, Tokina 400/5,6
M42: Vivitar 28/2.5, Tamron 28/2.5, Formula5 28/2.8, Mamiya 28/2.8, Pentacon 29/2.8, Flektogon 35/2.4, Flektogon 35/2.8, Takumar 35/3.5, Curtagon 35/4, Takumar 50/1.4, Volna-6 50/2.8 macro, Mamiya 50/1.4, CZJ Pancolar 50/1,8, Oreston 50/1.8, Takumar 50/2, Industar 50/3.5, Sears 55/1.4, Helios 58/2, Jupiter 85/2, Helios 85/1.5, Takumar 105/2.8, Steinheil macro 105/4.5, Tamron 135/2.5, Jupiter 135/4, CZ 135/4, Steinheil Culminar 135/4,5, Jupiter 135/3.5, Takumar 135/3.5, Tair 135/2.8, Pentacon 135/2.8, CZ 135/2.8, Taika 135/3.5, Takumar 150/4, Jupiter 200/4, Takumar 200/4
Exakta: Topcon 100/2.8(M42), 35/2.8, 58/1.8, 135/2.8, 135/2.8 (M42), Kyoei Acall 135/3.5
C/Y: Yashica 28/2.8, 50/1.7, 135/2.8, Zeiss Planar 50/1.4, Distagon 25/2.8
Hexanon: 28/3.5, 35/2.8, 40/1.8, 50/1.7, 52/1.8, 135/3.2, 135/3.5, 35-70/3.5, 200/3.5
P6 : Mir 38 65/3.5, Biometar 80/2.8, Kaleinar 150/2.8, Sonnar 180/2.8
Minolta SR: 28/2.8, 28/3.5, 35/2.8, 45/2, 50/2, 58/1.4, 50/1.7, 135/2.8, 200/3.5
RF: Industar 53/2.8, Jupiter 8 50/2
Enlarg: Rodagon 50/5,6, 80/5,6, 105/5.6, Vario 44-52/4, 150/5.6 180/5.6 El Nikkor 50/2,8,63/2.8,75/4, 80/5,6, 105/5.6, 135/5.6 Schneider 60/5.6, 80/5.6, 80/4S,100/5.6S,105/5.6,135/5.6, 135/5.6S, 150/5.6S, Leica 95/4 |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 2:18 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
And if you want to see some pictures: http://www.flickr.com/groups/33051635@N00/
Thanks for the description! _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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lulalake
Joined: 22 Apr 2007 Posts: 1191 Location: Near Austin Texas
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 5:23 pm Post subject: |
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lulalake wrote:
lauge wrote: |
Great guide Could you show some samples please? How is this compared with conventional developers, and how big is the difference from not using benzotriazole? |
Hello Lauge,
Thanks much for your comment. Fogged film has any number of causes and manifests in many ways; Light leaks, over and under processing, over aged film, heat, high dosage of Xrays, and more. There is also light and dark fogging.
Almost all fogging can be helped at least a bit by the use of anti-fogging chemistry, some more, and some less. Some fogging can’t be helped much.
This (taken with a Holga) is an example of a light leak induced fogging plus a processing induced surface fogging . It's not grain as it's FP4+ and coffee are both in the fine grain family. (There are several other issues with the pic but they are kind of fun! Ahh the perverse joys of a Holga)
This one could have probably been helped a bit with anti-fogging chemistry.
Since I started using the chemistry I have had little process fogging and here is an example of little to no fogging on a coffee processed neg. (Previously posted here also):
And this one:
It’s perceived that anti-fogging chemistry boosts the contrast. It doesn’t really do that. What it does is to allow the film to present the contrast that is possible with that film.
I don’t really swear by anti-fogging chemistry, but I do use it as it’s inexpensive and easy to use.
(All pics here are FP4+, processed in coffee)
Jules |
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lulalake
Joined: 22 Apr 2007 Posts: 1191 Location: Near Austin Texas
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 5:28 pm Post subject: |
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lulalake wrote:
Thanks Paul and Patrick. |
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