ok, what is the cost of simple film developing kit?

[fish4570]

i'm talking 35mm only, film only. just found out the high school where my bride and i work has an unused darkroom. can't be too much expense if my fumble fingers cannot handle it. don't need a clock or other timer. i can use my watch or phone for starters. you know, the bare essentials ...

[ludoo]

[Sevo]

You need a Jobo 1520 tank with two spirals and plain lid (around 15€ on ebay) or an equivalent (Nikor steel, Paterson - avoid anything ancient or off-brand) tank, a changing bag (Roger Luo from the UK makes the best affordable ones, mid size is around 20€) a 500ml beaker or two, a litre bottle for each chemistry stage you don't want to one-shot (I'd recommend reusing fixer only, at least for the start). And chemistry, of course. To start with, Kodak HC-110 (one shot, mixes from liquid, won't ever go bad, works well with any common film type) and whatever rapid fixer is most affordable at your dealer.

A bottle of photo flo is handy, and so are drying clamps - but that can be worked around with allergen/perfume free dishwasher liquid and clothes pegs...

[fish4570]

got the dakroom. it is free, so no need for changing bag. hc110, huh? good for tri-x? when i ran film i didn't have to worry about gathering kit. all was available for free at the newspaper where i work for several years ...

[Nesster]

The way I restarted: I got Ilford chemistry, as everything came in nice bottles (no powder to mix). Oh no, I bought Kodak Tmax developer.

I'm of the opinion that plain vanilla developer to start with is best. For one, you don't need a syringe, as the typical dilutions are 1:4 or 1:9. After the Tmax, I tried Ilfosol, and then I mixed a liter of D-76 in a 1 liter soda bottle - easy enough to mix by shaking the bottle. Now I'm onto Xtol. The Tmax is easy to use and typically has short development times.

I saved 2 liter size soda bottles, and mixed the stop and fix solutions in them.

I have 1 800ml beaker, will probably end up getting another. A funnel is a good thing to have. As mentioned above, a thermometer. I have Yashica promotional clothespins, but any two clips will work to hang the film to dry. As I develop in the kitchen, I use the timer in the oven.

I bought a plastic tank to fit 2 35mm reels or 1 120, adjustable reels. I've always used plastic reels for the ease of loading - but keep it clean and make sure it's dry before attempting to load (as mentioned above).

After a few rolls, I bought a bunch of plastic film holder sheets, these can go into a binder and keep the film safe and clean.

[ludoo]

HC-110 and Tri-X go hand in hand. The advantage of HC-110 and Rodinal over other developers is that a) you don't have to mix powder (faster, less messy) as they both come in concentrate form, and b) they are one-shot developers, so no need to store them and check if they still work after each use.

As for tanks, Paterson tanks are a dime a dozen and work great for 35mm and MF. I personally prefer steel tanks, I have a Kindermann that works great and that cost me maybe 10 euros on ebay.

[Arkku]

My starting kit was:

- Kodak HC-110 developer (about 35e for 1l locally, lasts forever)
- Ilford Rapid Fixer (about 20e for 1l locally)
- 10ml oral syringe (free from pharmacy)
- 250ml graduate (about 6e for laboratory glass, less for plastic)
- 2× 500ml Erlenmeyer flask (for mixing developer and fixer, and storing fixer working solution)
- 1 plastic funnel (for putting fixer solution back into flask)
- developing tank + reel (made a mistake and bought a cheap Kaiser, since replaced with Jobo 1520 from eBay)
- thermometer (had one already; I just measure the room temp and let everything settle at that)

This, apart from tap water, was all that I used to get started. Since I've found it convenient to add:

- cotton changing bag (from eBay, there's a Chinese-sounding person who sells them from London, excellent quality)
- 2× accordion bottle (for storing developer and fixer concentrates; supposedly keeps better when the bottle is full to the brim)
- 1000ml flask (found from dumpster, good for storing water at room temp)
- Jobo 1510 tank for single roll of 135 (needs less liquid than the larger 1520, but primarily bought for the second reel it came with; used from eBay)
- clip-on weight for drying film

Total price about 120-150e in the end, which paid itself back in about 20 rolls, considering the local prices for developing film in a lab. The only component I expect to run out anytime soon is the fixer, but even that is only half gone after two years.

I don't use distilled water, stop baths (other than a rinse with water), etc, so additional costs per roll are very near zero (especially considering that only 4-7ml of HC-110 gets used per roll).

[fish4570]

just got back from a shop that sells chemicals and other development accoutrements. no hc110 or rodinal. lots of ilford products in liquid form, and kodak extol and d-76 in powder form. what's an ilford concentrate developer? i did not take notes ...

[marty]

Hi there.

[Nesster]

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/producttype.asp?n=6&t=Film+Developers


http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/page.asp?n=10

[alex]

I wouldn't be too readily put off powder developer mixes like D76, they aren't "messy" at all. You open the pack, pour the contents into a jug of moderately hot water, stir to dissolve, then make up to the pack's final volume with cold. It's not rocket science, it's easy and clean, and takes mere minutes. It also has a good shelf life. You can use it at stock or 1+1, and no syringes needed, just a cheap measuring jug. I use jugs from the kitchen department of a local supermarket, which cost pennies.

Ludoo has the list just right. I use discarded medicine bottles and indigestion remedy bottles, which are brown glass and come in sizes around 300ml, 500ml, and 600ml, which are ideal for photo use, and have childproof caps. I don't ever use soft drink bottles, but I'm a bit sensitive about inquisitive small children who can't read.

[martinsmith99]

Rodinal when use at low cencentration is about the cheapest I think. Plus you can mess around with it a lot to suit.

[piticu]

You can successfully use almost any diluted acid as stop bath, such as vinegar or citric acid.
Also you can forget about fixer, just use plain hypo (sodium thiosulfate).
If you intend to scan the film you may want to use a compensating developer, such as Diafine - it's cheap, foolproof and has a very long life, comparing to other developers you can say it's immortal
Another compensating developer it's caffenol: washing soda (sodium carbonate), instant coffee and vitamin c (ascorbic acid).
I hope it helps.

[fish4570]

thanks to all. and yes, my negs will be scanned.