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eeyore_nl
Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 837 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 7:11 am Post subject: My digital B/W workflow, any comments? |
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eeyore_nl wrote:
After having worked with some complicated workflows, including the channel mixer, dedicated plug-ins and filters, the last months I have come to a very simple workflow. Far less work, and more natural looking results, in my opinion:
When I go out shooting B/W pictures, I put the camera in RAW mode (of course), and I enable the B/W preview setting. Usually with a digital color filter.
In my RAW Converter, Canon DPP (but it will probably work similar for Nikon and other cams), I take the B/W preview setting as a basis, and I use the other parameters, like contrast and exposure compensation for tuning the photo. This means that I am never distracted by the color version of the picture (Canon DPP uses the camera settings for previewing the RAW).
I don't do any noise reduction, since digital noise in a B/W picture looks better than the smoothness that noise reduction easily gives you. At least, my opinion.
Essentially, I do all of the B/W conversion in the RAW converter, with the standard color filters (Y/O/R/G/B) and no post-processing in Photoshop. In my opinion, this delivers more natural pictures, it makes (almost) your complete workflow B/W, and it saves a lot of time.
My guess is that part of the more natural look comes from the fact that you are dealing with the RAW file, and not with the converted JPEG picture.
Some results of this:
Any comments or suggestions for improvements? Would you prefer to look at more contrast-rich or more extensively processed pictures? Or do you think working in B/W straight from the camera is just fine? _________________ Fujifilm X-Pro2 / Fujifilm X-T1 / some Sonnar & Takumar lenses |
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my_photography
Joined: 03 Nov 2008 Posts: 2772 Location: Pearl of the Orient
Expire: 2016-12-25
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Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 8:35 am Post subject: |
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my_photography wrote:
I seldom shoot B/W but when I do, I will shoot in Raw and turned on monochrome in channel mixture in PS. _________________
Zeiss: CJZ Flektogon 20/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 20/4, , CJZ Pentacon 29/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 35/2.4, CJZ Pancolar 50/1.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Biotar 7.5cm/1.5, CJZ Pancolar 80/1.8, CJZ Sonnar 135/3.5, CJZ Pentacon 135/2.8 CJZ Sonnar 200/2.8
Other Germany: Meyer Primoplan 50/1.8, Meyer Trioplan 100/2.8
Takumar: SMC 50/1.4 Super Tak 55/2, Super Tak 85/1.9, S-M-C 135/3.5, Super Tak 150/4
Russian: Zenith 16/2.8, Mir-24M 2/35, Volna-9 50/2.8, Helios 44M (58/2), Helios 44M-3 MC (58/2), Helios 40 (85/1.5), Tair 11A (135/2.8 )
Others: Sears 28/2.8, Sankor 35/2.8, Enna M�nchen Tele-Ennalyt 135/3.5
Zoom Sigma Zoom 28-85/3.5-4.5
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fatdeeman
Joined: 13 Jun 2009 Posts: 780 Location: UK
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Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 8:31 pm Post subject: |
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fatdeeman wrote:
I tend to use the black and white adjustment layer in PS to give the most contrast between different colours, it's like using several colour filters at once. _________________ - Dave
www.lensporn.net
www.flickr.com/photos/fatdeeman/
DSLR: Canon EOS 60D, Samsung GX-1S (Pentax *ist DS2)
Mirrorless: Panasonic DMC-G1, Sony NEX-5N
Compact: Canon PowerShot G3
Lenses:
Wide: Tokina RMC 28mm F/2.8, Tamron Adaptall 2 28mm F/2.5, Sun Optical 28mm F/2.5, Super paragon 28mm F/2.8, Sigma filtermatic 24mm F/2.8, Fujinon 35mm F/2.8, Sun Optical 35mm F/2.8
Standard: Industar 50-2, Helios 44-2, Helios 44M, Helios 44M-3, Pentax-M 50mm F/1.4, Pentax-M 50mm F/1.7, Pentax-M 50mm F/2, Ricoh 50mm F/1.7, Chinon 50mm F/1.7
Tele: Pentacon 135mm F/2.8, Pentacon 200mm F/3.5, Optomax 200mm f/3.5, Sun Optical 135mm F/3.5, Soligor 350mm F/5.6
Zoom: Tokina 28-70mm f/3.5-4.5 SZ-X270 SD, Sigma Zoom Pi 35-200mm F4-5.6, Sun Optical 28-80mm F/3.5-4.5, Sunagor 80-205mm F/3.8, Tokina RMC 80-200mm F/4, Vivitar 70-150mm F/3.8, Tamron 95-205mm F/6.3, Tamron Adaptall 28-200mm F/3.8-5.6 LD Aspherical, Tokina RMC 70-210mm F/3.5
Mirror: Falcon (Samyang) 800mm F/8, MTO-11CA 1000mm F/10, Tamron Adaptall 2 500mm F/8
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 8:36 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
I also shoot RAW and use Canon's DPP. I'll have to give this a try. Your photos certainly look film-like enough at web resolutions.
In the past, I've converted from color film scans to b&w in post processing, and I've taken digital photos and converted them to b&w in post processing as well, but these were shots of the moon, so I just used the 16-bit grayscale conversion, which worked fine. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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eeyore_nl
Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 837 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 10:16 pm Post subject: |
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eeyore_nl wrote:
Here is a full-size version of a picture that I took today:
http://u1.ipernity.com/14/66/66/7086666.408ddb72.jpg
Monochrome setting in DPP, Orange filter, contrast +2, sharpening +4, WB Daylight. _________________ Fujifilm X-Pro2 / Fujifilm X-T1 / some Sonnar & Takumar lenses |
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6950 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 5:26 pm Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
I use Adobe Bridge to convert as it allows you to tweak the brightness of individual colours.
I sometimes use the gradient map in CS3 to convert as this can give pleasant results quickly. _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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eeyore_nl
Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 837 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 5:56 pm Post subject: |
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eeyore_nl wrote:
martinsmith99 wrote: |
I use Adobe Bridge to convert as it allows you to tweak the brightness of individual colours.
I sometimes use the gradient map in CS3 to convert as this can give pleasant results quickly. |
I think my main thing is that I don't like post-processing. Therefore I try to keep it as simple as possible.
_________________ Fujifilm X-Pro2 / Fujifilm X-T1 / some Sonnar & Takumar lenses |
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my_photography
Joined: 03 Nov 2008 Posts: 2772 Location: Pearl of the Orient
Expire: 2016-12-25
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Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 9:32 am Post subject: |
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my_photography wrote:
eeyore_nl wrote: |
I think my main thing is that I don't like post-processing. Therefore I try to keep it as simple as possible.
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This is a nice and simple but great BW photo you have there. _________________
Zeiss: CJZ Flektogon 20/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 20/4, , CJZ Pentacon 29/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 35/2.4, CJZ Pancolar 50/1.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Biotar 7.5cm/1.5, CJZ Pancolar 80/1.8, CJZ Sonnar 135/3.5, CJZ Pentacon 135/2.8 CJZ Sonnar 200/2.8
Other Germany: Meyer Primoplan 50/1.8, Meyer Trioplan 100/2.8
Takumar: SMC 50/1.4 Super Tak 55/2, Super Tak 85/1.9, S-M-C 135/3.5, Super Tak 150/4
Russian: Zenith 16/2.8, Mir-24M 2/35, Volna-9 50/2.8, Helios 44M (58/2), Helios 44M-3 MC (58/2), Helios 40 (85/1.5), Tair 11A (135/2.8 )
Others: Sears 28/2.8, Sankor 35/2.8, Enna M�nchen Tele-Ennalyt 135/3.5
Zoom Sigma Zoom 28-85/3.5-4.5
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womble
Joined: 28 Sep 2009 Posts: 987 Location: Hertfordshire
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Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 1:11 am Post subject: |
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womble wrote:
Lovely conversions.
Personally, I prefer to use the BW adjustment layer in photoshop 3. It is simple to use, allows quick appreciation of the effect of different filters, and can fine tune the image by dragging the mouse on areas you want to lighten or darken. I can do exactly the same in lightroom although without the preset filters, and of course is non-destructive editing of the RAW file allowing me to revert back to the original file with no hassle.
At the end of the day, as long as you are comfortable with your method and get the results you want, the method itself is not so important.
K. _________________ Kris Lockyear
Digital: Pentax K-3iii
35mm film SLRs: various Pentax bodies from a H2 to a SF7, favourites the MX and LX
Rangefinder: Zeiss Super Ikonta IV, FED2, Zorkii-4, Industar 26m, Jupiter 8, 11 and 12 lenses
Medium format: various folders, Yashica Mat 124 G. Lubitel 2
LF: Horseman LE 5x4 view camera.
MF lenses (favourites) Pentax "K" 200mm f/2.5; "K" 135mm f/2.5; "K" 50mm f/1.2; "K" 35mm f/2; "K" 30mm f/2.8; "K" 28mm f/3.5 shift; "K" 15mm f/3.5; M 100mm f/2.8; M 40mm f/2.8; Jupiter-9 85mm |
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francotirador
Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Posts: 894
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Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 4:14 pm Post subject: |
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francotirador wrote:
those on the right track. Beautiful B & W, my only opinion is ... congratulations _________________ Canon 5D II-Sony nex 6
Canon L 80-200 f 2.8 - Canon L 135 f2 - Canon FD 135/2.5 convert to EOS - Yashica 50 1.4 ML - Canon FD 50 1.2 - Distagon 35mm 2.8 T AEJ - Minolta MC 24mm f 2.8 - Canon LTM 85 1.9- Canon LTM 85mm 1.9 convert to EOS - Rodenstock Heligon 50 1.9 - Color Skopar 50 2.8 & MAte Box & filters 4X4
Contax RTS II y Minolta SRT 303 - 28-135 3.6 Tokina - Minolta MD 45 f2.0 - Minolta Zoom 80 200 4.5 (Leica)
www.isgleasphoto.com
The life is more easy with this forum .... |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 6:45 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
One of the good things about doing the B&W tweaking in Canon's DPP is you're working with a RAW image, so all the manipulations are non-destructive, that is, one can always revert the image back to its original state, if so desired. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6950 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 9:57 am Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
cooltouch wrote: |
One of the good things about doing the B&W tweaking in Canon's DPP is you're working with a RAW image, so all the manipulations are non-destructive, that is, one can always revert the image back to its original state, if so desired. |
The same applies with my method of converting in Camera RAW of CS3's Bridge/PS. It has many adjustment sliders to apply filter effects and more versatile than DPP. There is another version in Photoshop, but the orange slider is missing for some reason. _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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eeyore_nl
Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 837 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 12:08 pm Post subject: |
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eeyore_nl wrote:
martinsmith99 wrote: |
cooltouch wrote: |
One of the good things about doing the B&W tweaking in Canon's DPP is you're working with a RAW image, so all the manipulations are non-destructive, that is, one can always revert the image back to its original state, if so desired. |
The same applies with my method of converting in Camera RAW of CS3's Bridge/PS. It has many adjustment sliders to apply filter effects and more versatile than DPP. There is another version in Photoshop, but the orange slider is missing for some reason. |
Yes, using Camera RAW sounds sensible too. That is, if you have Photoshop. _________________ Fujifilm X-Pro2 / Fujifilm X-T1 / some Sonnar & Takumar lenses |
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