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themoleman342
Joined: 21 Oct 2007 Posts: 2190 Location: East Coast (CT), U.S.A.
Expire: 2013-01-24
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Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 12:14 am Post subject: Chrome Lens Polish |
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themoleman342 wrote:
I'm usually not to picky about what the outside of a lens looks like but I figured I'd ask everyone's opinions on this one. My recent purchase, the Jupiter 9, has a sad looking outside. I figured maybe I'd give it a second life and polish the thing. I'm not sure if this is even something that would be safe to do. Maybe it isn't tarnishing but rather just worn away? I can't be sure...But if it may be worth it, can anyone recommend a non-aggressive chrome polish?
~Marc |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 12:33 am Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Tooth paste and lot of patient _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Poolhall
Joined: 25 Feb 2008 Posts: 1296
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Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 8:00 am Post subject: |
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Poolhall wrote:
To clean the outside I use Lighter petrol, but it will not take all the tarnishing off in my experience, WD40 gives it a nice shine, but the only thing I can suggest is Autosol or similar, for the chrome bits on cars and motor bikes, but I confess I have not tried it myself yet. Attila's suggestion of toohpaste makes sense as well but both willl be time consuming |
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xjjohnno
Joined: 07 Apr 2009 Posts: 1270 Location: Melbourne Australia
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 8:49 am Post subject: |
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xjjohnno wrote:
Is it chrome or polished metal? Chrome is a thin layer of metal electroplated to the surface of other metals and prone to flaking. Hopefully it's a polished metal surface instead. Brasso is another reasonably soft option for metal polishing. |
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Seele
Joined: 17 Apr 2009 Posts: 742 Location: Sydney Australia
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Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 12:45 pm Post subject: |
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Seele wrote:
Assuming it is not chrome plated but natural aluminium:
During the Soviet era, many such lens barrels were not anodized, but lacquered instead, and it is this lacquer layer that makes them look grubby after a few decades. If you wish you can clean off this lacquer layer and then polish up the aluminium, but it would also be a better idea to take it all apart first, and then get the parts properly anodized.
A good polish to use is Duraglit, but use the brass version rather than the silver version. |
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themoleman342
Joined: 21 Oct 2007 Posts: 2190 Location: East Coast (CT), U.S.A.
Expire: 2013-01-24
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Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 1:18 pm Post subject: |
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themoleman342 wrote:
Now that I look at it and hearing all the opinions, it probably is a polished metal without a clear coat (or it was and someone had already stripped it). I think I'll look in the local hardware store for everyone's suggestions and maybe fall back on toothpaste should there be nothing. Many thanks!
~Marc |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 4:18 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Seele wrote: |
A good polish to use is Duraglit, but use the brass version rather than the silver version. |
+1 for Duraglit. I did a little chrome Jupiter 8 with it last year.
It's an impregnated wadding and when new it's very wet. You need to tear off a small piece and give it a good squeeze inside some kitchen paper to get rid of the excess liquid, otherwise it might run into the lens. I'm not sure about the brass version Seele, I use the silver version. It's less aggressive. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Poolhall
Joined: 25 Feb 2008 Posts: 1296
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Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 4:32 pm Post subject: |
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Poolhall wrote:
AHHHH! Duraglit! they used to make me polish metal fire extiguishers with that when I was in the Navy, and it wasn't a punishment either |
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Seele
Joined: 17 Apr 2009 Posts: 742 Location: Sydney Australia
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Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 4:50 pm Post subject: |
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Seele wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
+1 for Duraglit. I did a little chrome Jupiter 8 with it last year.
It's an impregnated wadding and when new it's very wet. You need to tear off a small piece and give it a good squeeze inside some kitchen paper to get rid of the excess liquid, otherwise it might run into the lens. I'm not sure about the brass version Seele, I use the silver version. It's less aggressive. |
Peterqd,
It is still better to take the whole lens apart first, so as not to leave hidden bits missed out.
I used to be able to get Duraglit off the shelf here but now it's impossible to find. By the way, the brass version is also good for removing scratches from the back of negatives. |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 5:21 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Poolhall wrote: |
AHHHH! Duraglit! they used to make me polish metal fire extiguishers with that when I was in the Navy, and it wasn't a punishment either |
That's when you weren't painting the anchor chain I guess!
Seele wrote: |
I used to be able to get Duraglit off the shelf here but now it's impossible to find. By the way, the brass version is also good for removing scratches from the back of negatives. |
Scratched negs? Me? Good idea though, thanks!
Let me know if you want anything like that sent from UK, Seele. My son lives in Hurstville and we're always sending him stuff (mainly chocolate and Marmite) so he could easily send it on to you.
BTW, did you see the cricket???? _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Seele
Joined: 17 Apr 2009 Posts: 742 Location: Sydney Australia
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Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 6:10 pm Post subject: |
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Seele wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
Seele wrote: |
I used to be able to get Duraglit off the shelf here but now it's impossible to find. By the way, the brass version is also good for removing scratches from the back of negatives. |
Scratched negs? Me? Good idea though, thanks! |
Peterqd,
That is an old trick: place the negative on a clean surface, like a clean sheet of paper, and then roll a small piece of Duraglit (for brass) into a small ball, like 5mm diameter. Hold the negative down securely and tub the Duraglit over the scratched area in a circular motion. Clean with soft tissue regularly to check progress. You don't need to get the scratch taken out completely, it is just the ragged edges of a scratch that appears on the print. Normally, careful cleaning with soft tissue is sufficient but if you are really pedantic, you can use a solvent to clean the negative to make sure there is no trace of the Duraglit oil left.
peterqd wrote: |
Let me know if you want anything like that sent from UK, Seele. My son lives in Hurstville and we're always sending him stuff (mainly chocolate and Marmite) so he could easily send it on to you.
BTW, did you see the cricket???? |
Thanks for the offer, I will keep that in mind. Every match of The Ashes is televised, it does get a bit tedious as I have never been a sports fan, but being ex-Brit Australian I suppose I never lose! |
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Poolhall
Joined: 25 Feb 2008 Posts: 1296
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Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 6:40 pm Post subject: |
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Poolhall wrote:
Quote: |
That's when you weren't painting the anchor chain I guess! |
yes did that too
and painted the hull (both sides) of one of these (P297 in fact)
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Milanos
Joined: 04 Feb 2009 Posts: 110 Location: Vlašim
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Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 7:06 am Post subject: |
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Milanos wrote:
As far as I know and based on my experience, the best ever thing I used on polishing naturally looking aluminium is the soap polishing paste. It is something like a green brick in a cardboard paper box. Pretty cheap around 10 euros and one brick is often capable to last for years if You are not a profi custom polisher or something like that.
I think No-X knows what I mean as it is very common in Czech Republic.
The only thing You need is smooth clothes and quick movements with this paste. I´m sure the best result will be achieved when the lens is disassembled and parts separately polished on special clothes polishing wheel mounted on grinding machine. But be careful, Aluminium parts can be easily damaged when overheated and to be honest You can do it easily while polishing using a machinery...
The result will be mirror look aluminium...
I have a few tessar parts at home, if You are interested I can make a picture before and after... |
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