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wakarimasen
Joined: 06 Feb 2009 Posts: 2
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Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 5:38 pm Post subject: What's wrong with this picture? |
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wakarimasen wrote:
Hello folks.
I am trying 35mm film after quite a while of being digital only.
Having bought a few cameras recently (Olympus Trip 35, Fed 2 and a Yashica Electro 35) I loaded a cheap film into the first to try out. To see the results, I took it to a local store and had the film (Colour Truprint ASA200 - a film I found in a drawer!) developed as negatives and scanned.
Having looked at the results on my PC I'm quite disappointed: there are quite a few focussing errors on my part, most of the scans lak detail - especially when viewed at 100%.
My questions:
am I expecting too much from a cheap film?
should I try a different processing store?
can the scanning make a real difference?
Best regards,
RoyM _________________ tap tap tap... |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 6:05 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Hello ,
All of your question can make real difference.
Cheap film
Same film, same scan, same developing lab
Crappy result (lighting was poor)
http://www.mflenses.com/gallery/v/filmcamera/exa2a/
Superb result (lighting was excellent and camera also
http://www.mflenses.com/gallery/v/filmcamera/yashica_electro_35/
Pro film, pro gear , same scan , pro result
http://www.mflenses.com/gallery/v/filmcamera/Voigtlander/bessa_L_voigtlander_heliar_Tenerife/ _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 6:06 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Some cheap film can be good, same don't. Slide and pro films are always better than any digital camera especially on medium or above format. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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wakarimasen
Joined: 06 Feb 2009 Posts: 2
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Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 9:43 pm Post subject: |
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wakarimasen wrote:
Ok - here is an example. Any comments welcome!
Best regards,
RoyM
_________________ tap tap tap... |
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spiralcity
Joined: 02 Oct 2008 Posts: 1207 Location: Chicago, U.S.A
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Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 7:55 am Post subject: Re: What's wrong with this picture? |
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spiralcity wrote:
wakarimasen wrote: |
Hello folks.
I am trying 35mm film after quite a while of being digital only.
Having bought a few cameras recently (Olympus Trip 35, Fed 2 and a Yashica Electro 35) I loaded a cheap film into the first to try out. To see the results, I took it to a local store and had the film (Colour Truprint ASA200 - a film I found in a drawer!) developed as negatives and scanned.
Having looked at the results on my PC I'm quite disappointed: there are quite a few focussing errors on my part, most of the scans lak detail - especially when viewed at 100%.
My questions:
am I expecting too much from a cheap film?
should I try a different processing store?
can the scanning make a real difference?
Best regards,
RoyM |
Exposure here my friend. You basically shot a silhouette, was this the outcome you where looking for?
This is known as a high contrast scene. The sky is big and bright while the foliage and trees are in shadow. you dont have any detail in the foreground.
Take a reading of the darkest shadows that you want to record detail in then close down 1 stop from this reading. So if your shadows called for f/2.8 at 1/60 shoot at f/4 1/60. This will provide for proper exposure of the shadows and also provide good exposure for everything else except the brightest highlights.
Remember that color negative film can handle at best 3 or 4 stops overexposure but at MOST only one stop underexposure. So it should be clear that in a high contrast scene you want to expose for the shadows.
Unless your shooting silhouettes.
If i would have shot this scene I would have walked right up to the furthest tree and took a reading directly from the bark, then i would have stepped back framed my pic and stopped down 1 stop focused and shot. i would also have bracketed a few shots then compared the results.
Results when weight is given to highlights. You get a silhouette.
Midtone adjustment, sharp and saturation. could be better but a quick look at the blocked out shadows here.
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