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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6950 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 9:12 am Post subject: Spotmatic Light Seals |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
I won my 1st Spotmatic on the auctions site and after fixing an initial problem with a sticky shutter (thanks Peter) I want to restore it to a working camera.
I've seen a seller on the bay selling kits for light seal replacement. As I have none of the equipment to get me started, I was thinking of buying this Click here to see on Ebay.
Does anyone have any experience with these kits? Are there better ones?
Thanks _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 9:57 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Martin, I bought a seal kit from Jon Goodman in Texas, mainly because he does the pre-cut strips for the door seals, which are not self-adhesive. The kit you found looks OK but I'm worried about you cutting and inserting self-adhesive foam in the door seals - it will be very tricky! I've done about 6 or 7 cameras with the one kit and I still have enough left for 3 or 4 more.
This is the one I got: Click here to see on Ebay but I think he does a smaller kit and he's very helpful if you have any questions.
For the door seals I actually think the Praktica way is better, using a black yarn. I've never looked for any but I think it's a better idea. You'd need to get just the right thickness. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 10:06 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Here's another couple of links you might find helpful:
Classic Camera Repair Forum: http://www.kyphoto.com/cgi-bin/forum/discus.cgi
Yahoo Spotmatic Group: http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Spotmatic/ _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Rob Leslie
Joined: 20 Mar 2007 Posts: 1103 Location: UK Swindon
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 10:47 am Post subject: |
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Rob Leslie wrote:
There may be much better but for a simple job just use the light seals from used 35mm film canisters. You can get as many as you like free from any store photo lab. _________________ Pentax K10D & K100D. Many Tamron Adaptall SP lenses, Fujinon f4.5 400mm. A loved Lens Baby 2, Lubitel triplet +++ and many film cameras. Mainly a Digital user inc G5, GR2
http://robstreet.blogspot.com/
http://robleslie.blogspot.com/
http://roblesliephotography.blogspot.com/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64956578@N00/ |
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estudleon
Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 3754 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 8:08 pm Post subject: |
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estudleon wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
For the door seals I actually think the Praktica way is better, using a black yarn. I've never looked for any but I think it's a better idea. You'd need to get just the right thickness. |
HI!
What's? bsack yarn? How?
Sorpraised!!! Rino. _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 9:39 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
estudleon wrote: |
peterqd wrote: |
For the door seals I actually think the Praktica way is better, using a black yarn. I've never looked for any but I think it's a better idea. You'd need to get just the right thickness. |
HI!
What's? bsack yarn? How?
Sorpraised!!! Rino. |
Hello Rino, most SLR camera makers used plastic foam strips set in thin slots to seal the film door to the body to prevent light leaks. The foam degrades over time and becomes a sticky black mess, and damages the paint on the door edges. But Praktica used instead a black cord, softer than string but tougher than wool, and it's always still in good condition. It was such a good idea I'm amazed nobody else copied them. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Sevo
Joined: 22 Aug 2008 Posts: 1189 Location: Frankfurt, Germany
Expire: 2012-12-03
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 10:06 pm Post subject: |
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Sevo wrote:
Everybody in the camera industry used felt and wool up until after WWII, when neoprene and PUR foam became generally available. Replacing one with the other is usually impossible, though - old style light traps designed for wool threads are deeper and more narrow than these for neoprene strips. |
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 10:43 pm Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
I bought Goodman's small kit, and so far have re-sealed ... 5 cameras? and still have material left for more. Excellent seller, he's got enough detailed instructions for several cameras that even if yours isn't there you know what to do. _________________ -Jussi
Camera photos
Print Photographica
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6950 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 5:26 pm Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
I bought the Goodman kit. I did email him and ask if he had the smaller kits but no reply so I went ahead with the larger kit.
The mirror buffer concerns me the most. At least I don't have to worry about removing much of the old one as it's pretty much non-existent. _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 3:28 pm Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
The mirror buffer's not all that bad, really - it can be a bit awkward because you want to hold the camera so the old stuff doesn't fall into it. If some does fall in, better on the bottom than on the focus screen... I've had to replace something like 3 mirror foams, and none caused me any problems.
Re-sealing is truly doable, fun even. _________________ -Jussi
Camera photos
Print Photographica
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6950 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 9:49 am Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
One thing I forgot to ask, is as these seals come without glue, what glue is recommended? _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 11:47 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
You don't need any adhesive Martin. The instructions you've seen on Jon Goodman's site explain this fully. The pre-cut door seal strips do not need adhesive, they are pushed into the slots. The other seals have a self-adhesive backing. He recommends dampening the adhesive with your tongue to allow for initial adjustment and then as it dries the bond becomes stronger. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6950 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 11:59 am Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
Doh! Thanks again. I think today is stupid question day.
My excuse is, I'm at work so haven't got the instructions you sent me. _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 2:44 pm Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
All instructions here:
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html _________________ -Jussi
Camera photos
Print Photographica
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6950 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 3:06 pm Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
Quote: |
IMPORTANT NOTE: Observe the precautions on the solvent can. Work in a well-ventilated area and
avoid too much skin contact or contact with eyes, and don’t drink it. |
Made me laugh!
_________________ Casual attendance these days |
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