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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007
Posts: 5745
Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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 Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 6:53 am Post subject: Build your own wrenches to repair lenses |
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Jesito wrote:
In front of the difficulty of finding specific wrenchs for lenses, there is a cheap and easy solution to build them by yourselves:
We need a piece of a sheet of metal (brass, steel or whatever you have in hand), two bolts (with it's nuts and washers). Then use a jigsaw to cut the following shapes (two of them, identical):
Start by cutting the outer shape, then with a bit of the same diameter than the screw's diameter, make the two holes that will be the extremes of the inner shape. Then use the jigsaw to open the middle window. Be careful to keep the size equal to the screw's diameter (for tigthness). all along the way.
Once finished, then file the edges to match the notches on the lens, and you're trough!.
Regards.
Jes.
_________________
Jesito, Moderator 
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009
Posts: 10953
Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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| Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 5:09 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Awesome! Thanks Jes! Doi, the adjustment feature is going to save me a LOT of material and grinding, as I was going to make a bunch of single-width 'wrenches'.
_________________
☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009
Posts: 9096
Location: Houston, Texas
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| Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 7:58 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
Hey Jessito,
Thanks for the reminder. Sometimes I forget that I have a milling machine sitting out in my garage. This would be a perfect project for it.
I have a question about material, though. I have occasionally had lenses to repair where the ring was on very tight. Most recently I encountered this with a Tamron 80-200. I'm wondering if brass would be stout enough for a really tight ring. What do you think? Seems to me that, even though the ring would be aluminum most often, I might need a spanner made from steel to handle the tight ones.
Also, there are no dimensions specified on your graphic. Is the image supposed to be the actual size of the spanner? If so, I'm thinking some folks might need to build two -- one the size shown and then a larger one, if they have large diameter lenses, like mirrors, for example.
_________________
Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009
Posts: 10953
Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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| Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:19 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
I'm thinking start with sheet steel, then harden those tips. 
_________________
☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009
Posts: 9096
Location: Houston, Texas
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| Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:33 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
When I think of sheet steel, I'm thinking of something in a thickness range measured with a micrometer -- say 0.010" to maybe 0.050". Steel plate -- say a minimum of 1/8" thick, 3/16" would be better. Use mild steel for its machining ease, then harden the tips, yes. But don't want the tips to be too hard or they'll break.
_________________
Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009
Posts: 7786
Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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| Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:59 pm Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
I'd use mild steel and then case harden, to put a tough skin on a more malleable core around the tips.
http://www.ehow.com/how_4558811_case-harden-steel.html
Easy to do, and very effective. Obviously you wouldn't need 'several dozen charcoal briquettes just to do a small item like this, a couple will be more than enough, and a butane gas torch will get a small item red hot.
_________________
LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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jun
Joined: 25 Jan 2011
Posts: 54
Location: Philippines
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| Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2011 12:23 pm Post subject: |
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jun wrote:
i use a fork. it is easy to twist and bend the thongs apart to fit any slot on the ring. |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007
Posts: 5745
Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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| Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2011 6:19 pm Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
| jun wrote: |
| i use a fork. it is easy to twist and bend the thongs apart to fit any slot on the ring. |
Sound idea... Could you please post some pictures?
Thanks in advance.
Jes.
_________________
Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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martyn_bannister
Joined: 23 May 2010
Posts: 1151
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| Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 5:37 pm Post subject: |
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martyn_bannister wrote:
| cooltouch wrote: |
| When I think of sheet steel, I'm thinking of something in a thickness range measured with a micrometer -- say 0.010" to maybe 0.050". Steel plate -- say a minimum of 1/8" thick, 3/16" would be better. Use mild steel for its machining ease, then harden the tips, yes. But don't want the tips to be too hard or they'll break. |
Perhaps you should use what I used to know as "gauge plate". It is basically high carbon steel sheet which is dimensionally very accurate thickness wise and is supplied fully annealed. It can, being high carbon steel, be hardened and tempered after shaping. |
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009
Posts: 7786
Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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| Posted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 12:46 am Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
| martyn_bannister wrote: |
| cooltouch wrote: |
| When I think of sheet steel, I'm thinking of something in a thickness range measured with a micrometer -- say 0.010" to maybe 0.050". Steel plate -- say a minimum of 1/8" thick, 3/16" would be better. Use mild steel for its machining ease, then harden the tips, yes. But don't want the tips to be too hard or they'll break. |
Perhaps you should use what I used to know as "gauge plate". It is basically high carbon steel sheet which is dimensionally very accurate thickness wise and is supplied fully annealed. It can, being high carbon steel, be hardened and tempered after shaping. |
Yes, any decent engineering supply shop will have that, and for the price it's not worth messing around with materials that might bend or break the first time some pressure is put on them.
_________________
LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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alex.g
Joined: 12 Sep 2010
Posts: 32
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| Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 11:58 am Post subject: |
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alex.g wrote:
I've bought this and dremeled the tips
Search for: New Blue Watch case Screw-on back opener tool B003
Click here to see on Ebay - ~5USD
Last edited by alex.g on Sun Mar 20, 2011 12:42 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007
Posts: 5745
Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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| Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 12:39 pm Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
Great finding!, thanks for sharing.
Regards.
Jes.
_________________
Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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jun
Joined: 25 Jan 2011
Posts: 54
Location: Philippines
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| Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 5:29 am Post subject: fork smapper |
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jun wrote:
jesito
have not read this post for a long time. anyway this is my improvise spanner fork. you MUST protect your lens element with a cloth or tape before using this. a slip would cause a scratch on the front lens!
[img][/img]
_________________
mc rokkor 58 f1.4, mc rokkor 135 f2.8, canon fd 50 f1.4, yashica ml 50 f1.9, sigma 80-200 f4, tokina 80-200 f4, sony nex 16mm f2.8, sony alpha 18-70 f3.5-5.6, pentax smc f 35-70mm f3.5-5.6, canon efs 18-55 f3.5-5.6, tokina 28 f2.8, canon fl 58 f1.2 |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007
Posts: 5745
Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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| Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 6:36 am Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
Good approach!...
Thanks for sharing,
Jes.
_________________
Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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sinhas
Joined: 07 Apr 2009
Posts: 13
Location: USA
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| Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 5:37 am Post subject: |
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sinhas wrote:
Thanks Jesito for starting this nice thread. @ alex, nice find I had been managing with a clunky circle cutter I think I get this nice watch opener one. Is that sturdy enough?
_________________
Pentax K10D, Sigma SD14, Canon 7D
[M42] Super Tak 35/3.5, 55/1.8, SMC 35/2, 85/f1.8, 135/3.5,
Pentax [K] SMC 28/3.5, SMC 50/2, 50/1.4, SMC 100/4 macro, 135/3.5
Few zooms |
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hinnerker
Joined: 17 Aug 2009
Posts: 929
Location: Germany near Kiel
Expire: 2015-08-09
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| Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 6:00 am Post subject: |
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hinnerker wrote:
And maybe the easiest way..
Cheers
Henry
_________________
some light-painting lens stuff.. 
... and an EOS 5D MKII
www.digicamclub.de |
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NewStuff
Joined: 31 Mar 2011
Posts: 847
Location: Wales, UK
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| Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 6:56 am Post subject: |
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NewStuff wrote:
I'll be buying a watch back removal tool I think. We sell them in work, with a number of different ends, some already flat, so I may not need to Dremel them. My big question is, will it be able to reach the required diameter to remove some of the larger rings?
Assuming it's suitable, I'll post details here, so that people in the UK can pop in and get one.
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Too many to list. |
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alex.g
Joined: 12 Sep 2010
Posts: 32
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| Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 7:05 am Post subject: |
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alex.g wrote:
pretty nice quality, those metall tips are pretty hard. you will find out when you will dremel those to fit your needs. I will get few more to have different tip wrenches. |
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OM
Joined: 15 Jan 2010
Posts: 166
Location: Southern England
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| Posted: Sun May 15, 2011 11:45 pm Post subject: |
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OM wrote:
| NewStuff wrote: |
| Assuming it's suitable, I'll post details here, so that people in the UK can pop in and get one. |
Yes please... |
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greg
Joined: 21 Mar 2009
Posts: 683
Expire: 2012-12-03
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| Posted: Mon May 16, 2011 2:30 am Post subject: |
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greg wrote:
I just ordered two of these for $7.98USD w/free shipping. Look at all the ones he has for sale, the prices vary from 3.98 to 6.98 each in current auctions.
| alex.g wrote: |
I've bought this and dremeled the tips
Search for: New Blue Watch case Screw-on back opener tool B003
Click here to see on Ebay - ~5USD
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009
Posts: 9096
Location: Houston, Texas
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calvin83
Joined: 12 Apr 2009
Posts: 7555
Location: Hong Kong
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| Posted: Mon May 16, 2011 6:02 am Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
| greg wrote: |
I just ordered two of these for $7.98USD w/free shipping. Look at all the ones he has for sale, the prices vary from 3.98 to 6.98 each in current auctions.
| alex.g wrote: |
I've bought this and dremeled the tips
Search for: New Blue Watch case Screw-on back opener tool B003
Click here to see on Ebay - ~5USD
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The min jaw opening many be wrong. It looks something 15-16mm.
_________________
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https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/
The best lens is the one you have with you. |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009
Posts: 9096
Location: Houston, Texas
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| Posted: Mon May 16, 2011 6:07 am Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
| calvin83 wrote: |
The min jaw opening many be wrong. It looks something 15-16mm. |
Probably not. It's meant for watches.
_________________
Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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calvin83
Joined: 12 Apr 2009
Posts: 7555
Location: Hong Kong
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| Posted: Mon May 16, 2011 6:42 am Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
| cooltouch wrote: |
| calvin83 wrote: |
The min jaw opening many be wrong. It looks something 15-16mm. |
Probably not. It's meant for watches. |
I hope so. You can see the min opening is 1/5 of the total length in the photo.
_________________
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https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/
The best lens is the one you have with you. |
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greg
Joined: 21 Mar 2009
Posts: 683
Expire: 2012-12-03
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| Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 5:38 pm Post subject: |
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greg wrote:
I just received the two watch back removers I ordered on the 15th - 2 weeks to US from China- free shipping - not bad.
As to the distances - the center to center of the tool ends is minimum 14.5mm and the maximum 56.5mm.
The adjustment is actually very fine and smooth.
It will be some time before I grind down the tips as there is no immediate use for the tool. |
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