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DigiChromeEd
Joined: 29 Dec 2009 Posts: 3460 Location: Northern Ireland
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Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 6:38 pm Post subject: Fast lens de-yellowing without a UV lamp |
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DigiChromeEd wrote:
Recently I bought a Minolta MC 2.5/28 lens from fellow forum member Tervueren (thanks again John!).
One of the internal elements was 'yellowed' so I started researching both on this forum and on the web in general for a solution. I always thought that UV light was required either from a lamp or from exposure to the sun to bleach the lens until I came across an article on YouTube from an American photographer with a different solution. He used a LED lamp from IKEA (Model JANSJO). I must admit I was a bit skeptical, but as the lamp only cost £10 I thought I would give it a go and if it didn't work I would still have a worklamp I could use.
Here is a photo of my set-up. I lined a bowl with silver foil, placed the lens face down with aperture wide open and positioned the lamp just above it. As it is an LED lamp it doesn't generate any heat so the lamp was as close to the rear element as I could position it.
I left it like this for 72 hours or three days if you prefer. The result is amazing! The 'yellowing' has practically gone.
I don't understand the science behind this because I always thought UV light was required, but if someone can explain it I would be very interested to know.
Below is a photo of the lens taken by Tervueren before I bought it.
This photo is the same one altered by me to show what the lens looks like now to my eyes (I'll update this thread with a proper shot of the cured lens as soon as I can).
_________________ "I've got a Nikon camera, I like to take a photograph" - Paul Simon |
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ZoneV
Joined: 09 Nov 2009 Posts: 1632 Location: Germany
Expire: 2011-12-02
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Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 7:40 pm Post subject: |
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ZoneV wrote:
Can not work, it is not profesional work like this
Click here to see on Ebay
OK, he/she wrote that is is home build, so your setup will work likely as well.
But his/her list of yellowing / radioactive lenses is quite good, worth saving that list _________________ Camera modification, repair and DIY - some links to look through: http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/index-en.html
I AM A LENS NERD!
Epis, Elmaron, Emerald, Ernostar, Helioplan and Heidosmat.
Epiotar, Kameraobjektiv, Anastigmat, Epis, Meganast, Magnagon, Quinar, Culmigon, Novotrinast, Novflexar, Colorplan, Sekor, Kinon, Talon, Telemegor, Xenon, Xenar, Ultra, Ultra Star. Tessar, Janar, Visionar, Kiptar, Kipronar and Rotelar.
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Pontus
Joined: 18 Dec 2011 Posts: 1471 Location: Jakobstad, Finland
Expire: 2016-08-25
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Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 9:35 pm Post subject: |
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Pontus wrote:
Excellent! I've read about that Ikea lamp before and had thoughts to buy one. I would use the same setup except that I would put the lens on a mirror. Don't know if it would work any faster though...
Btw, I think the LED is emitting UV-light. _________________ Follow this link for my FOR SALE list (partially updated 19.11.2015) |
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dan_
Joined: 05 Dec 2012 Posts: 1058 Location: Romania
Expire: 2016-12-19
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Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 10:44 am Post subject: |
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dan_ wrote:
My wife's nail dryer UV lamp does this job for me. |
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7788 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 4:02 pm Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
I never knew such a thing existed, I shall have to get my wife to buy one.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/LEVIPOWER-EDITION--Quality-Professional-Approved/dp/B00M4SXO36/ref=sr_1_192?ie=UTF8&qid=1416326382&sr=8-192&keywords=nail+dryer
this looks like ideal, she could get both hands in, if it's not full of old lenses, and the bottom slides off, so it could easily be placed on top of a bigger box, with even more lenses! _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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Gardener
Joined: 22 Sep 2013 Posts: 950 Location: USA
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Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 6:05 pm Post subject: |
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Gardener wrote:
dan_ wrote: |
My wife's nail dryer UV lamp does this job for me. |
So it does work? I was wondering if it would but never could find a definitive answer. Which kind does she have - one lamp or multi? |
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dan_
Joined: 05 Dec 2012 Posts: 1058 Location: Romania
Expire: 2016-12-19
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Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 1:05 pm Post subject: |
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dan_ wrote:
It is a 4 lamps unit. I have only used it twice because I don't have so many yellowed lenses. I let the lenses in for ~ 1 week and clearly noticed an improvement. |
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Gardener
Joined: 22 Sep 2013 Posts: 950 Location: USA
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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 2:26 pm Post subject: |
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Gardener wrote:
Wow, a week?! I expected you'd say overnight and not a trace of yellow. |
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Webwalker
Joined: 09 Jan 2012 Posts: 96 Location: Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
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Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2015 5:15 am Post subject: |
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Webwalker wrote:
DigiChromeEd
Good solution, thanks for sharing! _________________ Sony SLT A58
MF: Mir-1 silver GP Brussels, Zenitar-M 1.7/50, Helios 44 silver, Indi 50-2, Jupiter 38 4/75, MC CZJ Biometar 2.8/80, Jupiter 11 crome, MC Tamron SP 28-80mm f/3.5-4.2, Vivitar 75-205 mm f/3.8
AF: Minolta AF 50mm 1.7, mini beercan, beercan, secret handshake, Sigma Tele Converter X1.4 |
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ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011 Posts: 2726 Location: Kiel, Germany.
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Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2015 8:14 pm Post subject: |
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ForenSeil wrote:
I wonder if the heat produced by the lamp highly increases the deyellowing-speed.
Because the UV-exposure caused by such a lamp (these kind of LED's are producing only a very little UV light as far as I know) within a week should be much lower than one summer day of direct sun I guess. But these lamps are getting warm _________________ I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language) |
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Rigel
Joined: 26 Nov 2015 Posts: 121 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Fri Dec 25, 2015 9:19 pm Post subject: |
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Rigel wrote:
Can someone provide some argumented reason why "UV" would be able to clean such a yellowed element ?
I have been professsionally involved in lots of spectro-photometric equipment and I've never know that "glass" is letting any UV pass through .. In fact the cut-off frequencies are around 400-380 nm .. which is anything but UV ... so please explain this IMHO sort of witchcraft ? |
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blende8
Joined: 29 Sep 2007 Posts: 260 Location: Bremen, Germany
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Posted: Fri Dec 25, 2015 9:45 pm Post subject: |
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blende8 wrote:
From this it seems that it is not exactly the UV light that is needed, but probably just enough "energy"? _________________ Best wishes, Wieland
K-1, K-5IIs
Pentax, mysterium quod absconditum fuit ... |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10993 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sat Dec 26, 2015 12:33 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
+1 blende8
@ForenSeil, I don't think that led puts out much power -- less than one watt -- not much heat at all...
Perhaps proper wavelength is inside blue color...this would make sense because the blue sky radiates a lot of UV too, but it is the blue color that cures the glass (or in this case maybe coating). _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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Rigel
Joined: 26 Nov 2015 Posts: 121 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Sat Dec 26, 2015 1:22 pm Post subject: |
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Rigel wrote:
I doubt that it has anything to do with blue sky radiating UV ... The "blue" in the sky is caused by light scattering due to the Rayleigh and/or Tyndall effects ... mabe the blue wavelengths in visible light have enough energy to clean up the "yellowing" ?
Fact is that orange-yellow is the "complementary" color of "blue". is the strong absorption (energy) of the "blue" light the cause of clearing the "yellow" ? |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10993 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sun Dec 27, 2015 2:45 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Rigel wrote: |
I doubt that it has anything to do with blue sky radiating UV ... The "blue" in the sky is caused by light scattering due to the Rayleigh and/or Tyndall effects ... mabe the blue wavelengths in visible light have enough energy to clean up the "yellowing" ?
Fact is that orange-yellow is the "complementary" color of "blue". is the strong absorption (energy) of the "blue" light the cause of clearing the "yellow" ? |
Brilliant! Could light of the proper blue wavelength, such as some octave of the orange-yellow wavelength of thorium, re-energize the degraded thorium to clear? Now if there is a blue led "just opposite" the orange-yellow of thorium... _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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DConvert
Joined: 12 Jun 2010 Posts: 921 Location: Essex UK
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Posted: Sun Dec 27, 2015 10:24 am Post subject: |
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DConvert wrote:
UV photons have more energy than any visible wavelengths.
Total energy is not too relevant, in chemical reactions. It's the energy of the photon that's important. If the photon has enough energy to get the reaction over the threshold it can proceed, if not the energy is no help.
It's a bit like climbing over a wall, a small jump doesn't let you reach the top & you fall back, another small jump won't help, but one bigger jump can.
Glass does block UV but it's not total. At longer UV wavelengths you can get over 50% of the UV transmitted through a typical lens. A couple of the photographic lenses I've measured transmit about 1% right down at 300nm (that's nearly half wave down through the non vacuum UV region by ~180mn air absorbs UV pretty quickly). |
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blende8
Joined: 29 Sep 2007 Posts: 260 Location: Bremen, Germany
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Posted: Sun Dec 27, 2015 10:38 am Post subject: |
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blende8 wrote:
@DConvert: That may all be correct, but the above LED lamp does not emit UV light.
LEDs are especially low of UV. _________________ Best wishes, Wieland
K-1, K-5IIs
Pentax, mysterium quod absconditum fuit ... |
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Rigel
Joined: 26 Nov 2015 Posts: 121 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Sun Dec 27, 2015 11:43 am Post subject: |
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Rigel wrote:
DConvert wrote: |
..
Glass does block UV but it's not total. At longer UV wavelengths you can get over 50% of the UV transmitted through a typical lens. A couple of the photographic lenses I've measured transmit about 1% right down at 300nm (that's nearly half wave down through the non vacuum UV region by ~180mn air absorbs UV pretty quickly). |
That may cutting short through the bends
I have my doubts about that 50% transmission figure, I've never seen this happen and it would have saved us a lot of money in not having to buy expensive analysis cells. The caveat is that it is unknown which combinations of "glass"(es) are used in lenses. Searching spectral transmission graphs for all types of glass show all sorts of curves .. some "special glass" types even have a 10% transmission at 300 nm while others have a steep cut-off showing 0% transmission at 390-400 nm ...
but let's assume that lens glass has the beneficial 1% transmission factor at 300nm (which I've never seen listed in any spectro-photometric equipment tech specs.) call me sceptic. |
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DConvert
Joined: 12 Jun 2010 Posts: 921 Location: Essex UK
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Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2015 12:07 am Post subject: |
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DConvert wrote:
Rigel wrote: |
DConvert wrote: |
..
Glass does block UV but it's not total. At longer UV wavelengths you can get over 50% of the UV transmitted through a typical lens. A couple of the photographic lenses I've measured transmit about 1% right down at 300nm (that's nearly half way down through the non vacuum UV region by ~180mn air absorbs UV pretty quickly). |
That may cutting short through the bends
I have my doubts about that 50% transmission figure, I've never seen this happen and it would have saved us a lot of money in not having to buy expensive analysis cells. The caveat is that it is unknown which combinations of "glass"(es) are used in lenses. Searching spectral transmission graphs for all types of glass show all sorts of curves .. some "special glass" types even have a 10% transmission at 300 nm while others have a steep cut-off showing 0% transmission at 390-400 nm ...
but let's assume that lens glass has the beneficial 1% transmission factor at 300nm (which I've never seen listed in any spectro-photometric equipment tech specs.) call me sceptic. |
The data I measured can be found at http://global-infrared.freeforums.net/thread/80/lens-transmission-wavelength-repost-forum. It was measured on a reasonably high grade UV/vis spectrometer (a Perkin Elmer Lambda 35) but without the aid of an integrating sphere or any special alignment aids. This poor alignment probably being responsible for the low overall transmission seen in the wider angle lenses.
The lenses that gave best UV transmission tended to have less glass & no fancy coatings. The 80mm El-Nikkor having been brought specifically because of on-lines reports that it was usable for UV, but the 35mm c mount also proved to have reasonable transmission.
It's not difficult to find 'special glasses' with no significant UV transmission, quite a few of them don't transmit blue either!
As far as LEDs go I've never tried measuring the UV emissions, but I do know that many white LEDs achieve their relatively broad spectrum light by means of a phosphor that is exited by the LEDs emitted wavelength.
The LED lamps lighting the room I'm in at the moment have a good broad emission spectra & incidentally do emit some IR (I've photographed it through a diffraction grating with & without a 720nm filter - Unlike tungsten lights the IR emitted is considerably weaker than the visible. |
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kds315*
Joined: 12 Mar 2008 Posts: 16644 Location: Weinheim, Germany
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2015 8:22 am Post subject: |
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kds315* wrote:
DConvert wrote: |
Rigel wrote: |
DConvert wrote: |
..
Glass does block UV but it's not total. At longer UV wavelengths you can get over 50% of the UV transmitted through a typical lens. A couple of the photographic lenses I've measured transmit about 1% right down at 300nm (that's nearly half way down through the non vacuum UV region by ~180mn air absorbs UV pretty quickly). |
That may cutting short through the bends
I have my doubts about that 50% transmission figure, I've never seen this happen and it would have saved us a lot of money in not having to buy expensive analysis cells. The caveat is that it is unknown which combinations of "glass"(es) are used in lenses. Searching spectral transmission graphs for all types of glass show all sorts of curves .. some "special glass" types even have a 10% transmission at 300 nm while others have a steep cut-off showing 0% transmission at 390-400 nm ...
but let's assume that lens glass has the beneficial 1% transmission factor at 300nm (which I've never seen listed in any spectro-photometric equipment tech specs.) call me sceptic. |
The data I measured can be found at http://global-infrared.freeforums.net/thread/80/lens-transmission-wavelength-repost-forum. It was measured on a reasonably high grade UV/vis spectrometer (a Perkin Elmer Lambda 35) but without the aid of an integrating sphere or any special alignment aids. This poor alignment probably being responsible for the low overall transmission seen in the wider angle lenses.
The lenses that gave best UV transmission tended to have less glass & no fancy coatings. The 80mm El-Nikkor having been brought specifically because of on-lines reports that it was usable for UV, but the 35mm c mount also proved to have reasonable transmission.
It's not difficult to find 'special glasses' with no significant UV transmission, quite a few of them don't transmit blue either!
As far as LEDs go I've never tried measuring the UV emissions, but I do know that many white LEDs achieve their relatively broad spectrum light by means of a phosphor that is exited by the LEDs emitted wavelength.
The LED lamps lighting the room I'm in at the moment have a good broad emission spectra & incidentally do emit some IR (I've photographed it through a diffraction grating with & without a 720nm filter - Unlike tungsten lights the IR emitted is considerably weaker than the visible. |
If you're interested in UV transmitting lenses, have a look at my Blog http://uvir.eu _________________ Klaus - Admin
"S'il vient a point, me souviendra" [Thomas Bohier (1460-1523)]
http://www.macrolenses.de for macro and special lens info
http://www.pbase.com/kds315/uv_photos for UV Images and lens/filter info
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kds315/albums my albums using various lenses
http://photographyoftheinvisibleworld.blogspot.com/ my UV BLOG
http://www.travelmeetsfood.com/blog Food + Travel BLOG
https://galeriafotografia.com Architecture + Drone photography
Currently most FAV lens(es):
X80QF f3.2/80mm
Hypergon f11/26mm
ELCAN UV f5.6/52mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f4/60mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f2/62mm
Lomo Уфар-12 f2.5/41mm
Lomo Зуфар-2 f4.0/350mm
Lomo ZIKAR-1A f1.2/100mm
Nikon UV Nikkor f4.5/105mm
Zeiss UV-Sonnar f4.3/105mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f1.8/45mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f4.1/94mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f2.8/100mm
Steinheil Quarzobjektiv f1.8/50mm
Pentax Quartz Takumar f3.5/85mm
Carl Zeiss Jena UV-Objektiv f4/60mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha II f1.1/90mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha I f2.8/200mm
COASTAL OPTICS f4/60mm UV-VIS-IR Apo
COASTAL OPTICS f4.5/105mm UV-Micro-Apo
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f4.5/85mm
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f5.6/300mm
Rodenstock UV-Rodagon f5.6/60mm + 105mm + 150mm
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Rigel
Joined: 26 Nov 2015 Posts: 121 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2015 10:04 am Post subject: |
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Rigel wrote:
That is an extremely interesting blog !! (some pages missing ? list of UV lenses ?) ... but you will have to admit, this is hardly the daily setup of any John Doe that spends his/her spare time with photography ! |
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DConvert
Joined: 12 Jun 2010 Posts: 921 Location: Essex UK
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Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2015 10:49 am Post subject: |
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DConvert wrote:
kds315* wrote: |
If you're interested in UV transmitting lenses, have a look at my Blog http://uvir.eu |
An excellent blog Klaus, and the reason I'd found the El-Nikkor.
My photographic funds are quite limited, but working with spectroscopy has distinct advantages.
Sometime I'll get my old K100d out & have another go as it seems to have more UV response than my converted camera! I might also try a single elements quartz lens. |
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kds315*
Joined: 12 Mar 2008 Posts: 16644 Location: Weinheim, Germany
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2015 12:19 pm Post subject: |
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kds315* wrote:
DConvert wrote: |
kds315* wrote: |
If you're interested in UV transmitting lenses, have a look at my Blog http://uvir.eu |
An excellent blog Klaus, and the reason I'd found the El-Nikkor.
My photographic funds are quite limited, but working with spectroscopy has distinct advantages.
Sometime I'll get my old K100d out & have another go as it seems to have more UV response than my converted camera! I might also try a single elements quartz lens. |
Yep, that 5.6/80mm (and 105mm) older chrome/black EL-Nikkor is one of the best + affordable UV lenses!
Glad you liked it! _________________ Klaus - Admin
"S'il vient a point, me souviendra" [Thomas Bohier (1460-1523)]
http://www.macrolenses.de for macro and special lens info
http://www.pbase.com/kds315/uv_photos for UV Images and lens/filter info
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kds315/albums my albums using various lenses
http://photographyoftheinvisibleworld.blogspot.com/ my UV BLOG
http://www.travelmeetsfood.com/blog Food + Travel BLOG
https://galeriafotografia.com Architecture + Drone photography
Currently most FAV lens(es):
X80QF f3.2/80mm
Hypergon f11/26mm
ELCAN UV f5.6/52mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f4/60mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f2/62mm
Lomo Уфар-12 f2.5/41mm
Lomo Зуфар-2 f4.0/350mm
Lomo ZIKAR-1A f1.2/100mm
Nikon UV Nikkor f4.5/105mm
Zeiss UV-Sonnar f4.3/105mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f1.8/45mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f4.1/94mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f2.8/100mm
Steinheil Quarzobjektiv f1.8/50mm
Pentax Quartz Takumar f3.5/85mm
Carl Zeiss Jena UV-Objektiv f4/60mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha II f1.1/90mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha I f2.8/200mm
COASTAL OPTICS f4/60mm UV-VIS-IR Apo
COASTAL OPTICS f4.5/105mm UV-Micro-Apo
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f4.5/85mm
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f5.6/300mm
Rodenstock UV-Rodagon f5.6/60mm + 105mm + 150mm
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DigiChromeEd
Joined: 29 Dec 2009 Posts: 3460 Location: Northern Ireland
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Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2015 5:20 pm Post subject: |
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DigiChromeEd wrote:
Since starting this thread I have come across this article on the web which may be of interest:
https://mbphotox.wordpress.com/2015/09/25/removing-the-color-cast-in-radioactive-lenses-results/ _________________ "I've got a Nikon camera, I like to take a photograph" - Paul Simon |
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blende8
Joined: 29 Sep 2007 Posts: 260 Location: Bremen, Germany
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Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2015 5:48 pm Post subject: |
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blende8 wrote:
I hope you all know this classic?
http://web.aanet.com.au/bayling/repair.html
(Not for the faint of heart.) _________________ Best wishes, Wieland
K-1, K-5IIs
Pentax, mysterium quod absconditum fuit ... |
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