You favourite B/W film(/dev combo)?

[ForenSeil]

Hello!
What's your favourite B/W film?

Mine is after testing about 10 different films clearly TriX 400+Xtol 1+1 - it can be easily pushed up to ISO3200 and is so very versatile. It has some grain but a lot detail the extraordanary tonal range and exposure tollerance is the best I've ever seen. Not even comparable with the (mostly) Rollei stuff I used before.

I disliked the film with Rodinal bye the way (much grain, lower tonal range)

And which is your fav. film or film/dev combo for general use?
_________________
Cameras in active use: IR/UV modified NEX-5N+EVF, NEX-C3, Pentax Q, Minolta XG9, Moskva 5 6x6 Rangefinder
Lenses in active use:
MF
Samyang 8/2.8 E-Mount, Docter-Optics Olympus 100x 1.25 finite macro lens, Tevidon 16/1.8, Tominon 17/4 (10x Macro), CZJ Tevidon 25/1.4, Novoflex Macro-Noflexar 35/3.5, Minolta MD 50/1.4, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Samyang 85/1.4, Rodagon 105/5.6, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Novoflex 400/5.6, Celestron 500mm F3.6, Novoflex 600/8
AF:
Sigma 19mm F2.8 E-Mount, Sony SEL50F18

My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language)

[berraneck]

Kodak TriX or PlusX, Atomal or Rodinal developer

btw TriX in Rodinal 1:50 is a nice combo, but the grain is enormous:)
_________________
looking for Olympus XA-4! drop me a message if you know about one thanks!

equipment doesn´t count, good photographs do

[Nisseliten]

I almost exclusively shoot TriX 100 or 400, develop in D-76
I have not experimented that much with other film/developers, haven't found the need to. I like what the combo produces
_________________

DSLR: Canon 550D, Panasonic DMC-GF3
SLR: Leica R3mot electronic, Leica R4s, Leica R4mot electronic. and more.
Medium Format: Many.
Lenses
Leica: 19/2.8, 35/2, 35/2.8x2, 50/2, 60/2.8 macro, 90/2, 90/2.8, 180/3.4, 250/4, 500/8 T-Noflexar 400/5.6
Other: When will it end?!
Canon: 50/1.8, 70-200 f4 IS

[iangreenhalgh1]

Modern motion picture stock - Kodak Vision2, Vision3, Fuji Eterna.

Fomadon LQR and LQN developers.

In all aspects far outperforms traditional BW emulsions. Far greater dynamic range so shadow and highlight details are much greater, grain is a tiny fraction of what you get with a traditional BW film, and you can push them several stops with only miniscule increases in grain.

Once I've used up the BW film I have I'll probably never buy anymore, just use the motion stock, it's so much better and only costs me 6-10 pence a roll.

I'm surprised people like Tri-X so much, I think TMAX is a lot better than it.
_________________
'The question I would really consider (especially if an amateur and on a budget) is whether or not anyone (including yourself, of course) can tell the difference in any situation for which you will use the lens...and if they can, why are they burying their noses in your prints hard enough to tell the difference instead of responding to the prints emotionally and thinking about what they might mean?' - 2F/2F on apug.org

Digital: Sony NEX-3, Samsung NX100, Canon EOS 450d
35mm SLR: Konica FT-1, Konica FC-1, Konica Autoreflex T, Carena SRH760, Exakta RTL1000, Canon EOS 10qd
35mm VF: Olympus Stylus, Konica C35, Konica A4, Konica MG, Konica MT-9, Ricoh FF-9, Ricoh AF-80
35mm RF: Zorki 6, Kiev II, Kiev IV, Contax IIIa, CZJ Werra III,
Medium format: Franka Rolfix, Mess Ikonta 524/16, Voigtlander Bessa with Skopar 3.5/105, Voigtlander Bessa with Voigtar 3.5/105, Kiev 6C, Century Graphic 23, Ensign Selfix 820, Kershaw 450
MF lenses: Schneider Angulon 6.5/68, Componon-S 5.6/100, C-Claron 4.5/135, Xenar 3.5/105, Mamiya C 2.8/45, Mamiya 2.8/80, CZJ Flektogon 4/50, Biometar 2.8/80, Zodiac 3.5/30, Tominon 4.5/135, Pullin Pulnar 2.8/100
Large Format: Ernemann HEAG Series VII version II 9x12 with Kodak Anastigmat 6.3/170
Konica Hexanons 4/21, 2.8/24, 3.5/28, 2.8/35, 1.8/40, 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 1.8/50, 3.2/135, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 4.5/300, 3.5-4.5/35-70, 4-4.6/28-135, 3.5/35-70, UC 3.5/45-100, 4/70-150, 4/65-135, UC 4/80-200. Hexars 3.5/28, 3.5/135, Konishiroku 2.8/35
Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.8/35, Skoparex 3.4/35, Tessar 2.8/50, Sonnar 1.5/50, Biotar 2/58, Pancolar 1.8/50, Cardinar 4/100, Zeiss-Opton Biogon 2.8/35
Meyer/Pentacons 2.8/28, Primagon 4.5/35, Trioplan 2.9/50, 1.8/50, 2.4/50, Primotar 3.5/50, Primotar 3.5/135
Topcon RE Auto Topcors 1.8/58, 3.5/135, 5.6/200
Russians: OKC1-18-1 2.8/18, OKC1-28-1 2.8/28, Jupiter-12 2.8/35, Jupiter-8 2/50, Industar-50 3.5/50, Industar-26M 2.8/50, Industar-22 3.5/50, Zenitar M2S 2/50, Helios-44-2, Jupiter-9 2/85, Jupiter-11 4/135, Tair-3C 4.5/300
Tokina 3.5/17, Nikon Auto Nikkor-N 2.8/24, Nikon Micro-Nikkor-P 3.5/55, Ross Xpress 3.5/4in, Ross Xpress 4/5in, Ross Xpress 4.5/8.5in, Wollensak APO-Raptar 10/541

[Attila]

Fomapan + Foma LQN or LQR. Rodinal for any type of film.
I like Ian results, I will try it out myself too.
I don't like Ilford probably becuase I did develop only in Rodinal.
_________________
Attila - admin --- BUY FRESH FOMAPAN TO HELP KEEP THE FACTORY ALIVE ---
Foma Campaign topic - FOMAPAN on forum - Webshop EU

Items on sale on Ebay

35mm: Konica A4, Konica IIIA, Konica FC-1
MF: Konica Pearl I,II,III 6x4,5 Konica Semi Pearl
Film: Foma,Kodak, Fuji DIY development C41, FOMA LQR
Scan: Epson V500, scanassist (http://www.scanassist.org)
Shutter tester: LCD tester from member vfmoto
Digital: Panasonic G1, Sony Nex-3, Samsung NX100
Lenses: Konica Hexanons,Carl Zeiss,Carl Zeiss Jena,Meyer-Optik,Minolta MD,Yashica ML,Nikon,Olympus OM
DIY E-6,C41 and B&W

[iangreenhalgh1]

I'm not an Ilford fan either, Pan F 50 always gave me more grain than you would want or expect from a 50 ISO film - EFKE 50 is much better imho. FP4 is okay but the tonal range isn't great.

Never tried the Delta films however.
_________________
'The question I would really consider (especially if an amateur and on a budget) is whether or not anyone (including yourself, of course) can tell the difference in any situation for which you will use the lens...and if they can, why are they burying their noses in your prints hard enough to tell the difference instead of responding to the prints emotionally and thinking about what they might mean?' - 2F/2F on apug.org

Digital: Sony NEX-3, Samsung NX100, Canon EOS 450d
35mm SLR: Konica FT-1, Konica FC-1, Konica Autoreflex T, Carena SRH760, Exakta RTL1000, Canon EOS 10qd
35mm VF: Olympus Stylus, Konica C35, Konica A4, Konica MG, Konica MT-9, Ricoh FF-9, Ricoh AF-80
35mm RF: Zorki 6, Kiev II, Kiev IV, Contax IIIa, CZJ Werra III,
Medium format: Franka Rolfix, Mess Ikonta 524/16, Voigtlander Bessa with Skopar 3.5/105, Voigtlander Bessa with Voigtar 3.5/105, Kiev 6C, Century Graphic 23, Ensign Selfix 820, Kershaw 450
MF lenses: Schneider Angulon 6.5/68, Componon-S 5.6/100, C-Claron 4.5/135, Xenar 3.5/105, Mamiya C 2.8/45, Mamiya 2.8/80, CZJ Flektogon 4/50, Biometar 2.8/80, Zodiac 3.5/30, Tominon 4.5/135, Pullin Pulnar 2.8/100
Large Format: Ernemann HEAG Series VII version II 9x12 with Kodak Anastigmat 6.3/170
Konica Hexanons 4/21, 2.8/24, 3.5/28, 2.8/35, 1.8/40, 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 1.8/50, 3.2/135, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 4.5/300, 3.5-4.5/35-70, 4-4.6/28-135, 3.5/35-70, UC 3.5/45-100, 4/70-150, 4/65-135, UC 4/80-200. Hexars 3.5/28, 3.5/135, Konishiroku 2.8/35
Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.8/35, Skoparex 3.4/35, Tessar 2.8/50, Sonnar 1.5/50, Biotar 2/58, Pancolar 1.8/50, Cardinar 4/100, Zeiss-Opton Biogon 2.8/35
Meyer/Pentacons 2.8/28, Primagon 4.5/35, Trioplan 2.9/50, 1.8/50, 2.4/50, Primotar 3.5/50, Primotar 3.5/135
Topcon RE Auto Topcors 1.8/58, 3.5/135, 5.6/200
Russians: OKC1-18-1 2.8/18, OKC1-28-1 2.8/28, Jupiter-12 2.8/35, Jupiter-8 2/50, Industar-50 3.5/50, Industar-26M 2.8/50, Industar-22 3.5/50, Zenitar M2S 2/50, Helios-44-2, Jupiter-9 2/85, Jupiter-11 4/135, Tair-3C 4.5/300
Tokina 3.5/17, Nikon Auto Nikkor-N 2.8/24, Nikon Micro-Nikkor-P 3.5/55, Ross Xpress 3.5/4in, Ross Xpress 4/5in, Ross Xpress 4.5/8.5in, Wollensak APO-Raptar 10/541

[ForenSeil]

[iangreenhalgh1]

Yes, TMAX is much better in grain and sharpness, I haven't shot any in great light conditions, only cloudy, so not sure about the tonality, it has plenty of dynamic range so you can manipulate it quite a bit to change the tonality. Been years since I shot any Tri-X, I was never very fond of it, mostly due to the grain. The options I used to have for 100-ish speed film were TMAX, Tri-X, Ilford FP4+ and Jessop's 100, I used to use the Jessop's most of the time, it was Efke orthochromatic and I liked it a lot, TMAX was the most expensive and I ued to pick that when I needed great sharpness.
_________________
'The question I would really consider (especially if an amateur and on a budget) is whether or not anyone (including yourself, of course) can tell the difference in any situation for which you will use the lens...and if they can, why are they burying their noses in your prints hard enough to tell the difference instead of responding to the prints emotionally and thinking about what they might mean?' - 2F/2F on apug.org

Digital: Sony NEX-3, Samsung NX100, Canon EOS 450d
35mm SLR: Konica FT-1, Konica FC-1, Konica Autoreflex T, Carena SRH760, Exakta RTL1000, Canon EOS 10qd
35mm VF: Olympus Stylus, Konica C35, Konica A4, Konica MG, Konica MT-9, Ricoh FF-9, Ricoh AF-80
35mm RF: Zorki 6, Kiev II, Kiev IV, Contax IIIa, CZJ Werra III,
Medium format: Franka Rolfix, Mess Ikonta 524/16, Voigtlander Bessa with Skopar 3.5/105, Voigtlander Bessa with Voigtar 3.5/105, Kiev 6C, Century Graphic 23, Ensign Selfix 820, Kershaw 450
MF lenses: Schneider Angulon 6.5/68, Componon-S 5.6/100, C-Claron 4.5/135, Xenar 3.5/105, Mamiya C 2.8/45, Mamiya 2.8/80, CZJ Flektogon 4/50, Biometar 2.8/80, Zodiac 3.5/30, Tominon 4.5/135, Pullin Pulnar 2.8/100
Large Format: Ernemann HEAG Series VII version II 9x12 with Kodak Anastigmat 6.3/170
Konica Hexanons 4/21, 2.8/24, 3.5/28, 2.8/35, 1.8/40, 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 1.8/50, 3.2/135, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 4.5/300, 3.5-4.5/35-70, 4-4.6/28-135, 3.5/35-70, UC 3.5/45-100, 4/70-150, 4/65-135, UC 4/80-200. Hexars 3.5/28, 3.5/135, Konishiroku 2.8/35
Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.8/35, Skoparex 3.4/35, Tessar 2.8/50, Sonnar 1.5/50, Biotar 2/58, Pancolar 1.8/50, Cardinar 4/100, Zeiss-Opton Biogon 2.8/35
Meyer/Pentacons 2.8/28, Primagon 4.5/35, Trioplan 2.9/50, 1.8/50, 2.4/50, Primotar 3.5/50, Primotar 3.5/135
Topcon RE Auto Topcors 1.8/58, 3.5/135, 5.6/200
Russians: OKC1-18-1 2.8/18, OKC1-28-1 2.8/28, Jupiter-12 2.8/35, Jupiter-8 2/50, Industar-50 3.5/50, Industar-26M 2.8/50, Industar-22 3.5/50, Zenitar M2S 2/50, Helios-44-2, Jupiter-9 2/85, Jupiter-11 4/135, Tair-3C 4.5/300
Tokina 3.5/17, Nikon Auto Nikkor-N 2.8/24, Nikon Micro-Nikkor-P 3.5/55, Ross Xpress 3.5/4in, Ross Xpress 4/5in, Ross Xpress 4.5/8.5in, Wollensak APO-Raptar 10/541

[ForenSeil]

Which developer did you use on TriX? I would bet that modern Xtol (or even D76 and HC-110) is better than Rodinal or similar for this film, especially on the grain site. A big plus for is that I can use it indoor, at partys, even with candle-light, because of the ISO3200.
_________________
Cameras in active use: IR/UV modified NEX-5N+EVF, NEX-C3, Pentax Q, Minolta XG9, Moskva 5 6x6 Rangefinder
Lenses in active use:
MF
Samyang 8/2.8 E-Mount, Docter-Optics Olympus 100x 1.25 finite macro lens, Tevidon 16/1.8, Tominon 17/4 (10x Macro), CZJ Tevidon 25/1.4, Novoflex Macro-Noflexar 35/3.5, Minolta MD 50/1.4, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Samyang 85/1.4, Rodagon 105/5.6, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Novoflex 400/5.6, Celestron 500mm F3.6, Novoflex 600/8
AF:
Sigma 19mm F2.8 E-Mount, Sony SEL50F18

My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language)

[iangreenhalgh1]

D-76, Xtol wasn't available.
_________________
'The question I would really consider (especially if an amateur and on a budget) is whether or not anyone (including yourself, of course) can tell the difference in any situation for which you will use the lens...and if they can, why are they burying their noses in your prints hard enough to tell the difference instead of responding to the prints emotionally and thinking about what they might mean?' - 2F/2F on apug.org

Digital: Sony NEX-3, Samsung NX100, Canon EOS 450d
35mm SLR: Konica FT-1, Konica FC-1, Konica Autoreflex T, Carena SRH760, Exakta RTL1000, Canon EOS 10qd
35mm VF: Olympus Stylus, Konica C35, Konica A4, Konica MG, Konica MT-9, Ricoh FF-9, Ricoh AF-80
35mm RF: Zorki 6, Kiev II, Kiev IV, Contax IIIa, CZJ Werra III,
Medium format: Franka Rolfix, Mess Ikonta 524/16, Voigtlander Bessa with Skopar 3.5/105, Voigtlander Bessa with Voigtar 3.5/105, Kiev 6C, Century Graphic 23, Ensign Selfix 820, Kershaw 450
MF lenses: Schneider Angulon 6.5/68, Componon-S 5.6/100, C-Claron 4.5/135, Xenar 3.5/105, Mamiya C 2.8/45, Mamiya 2.8/80, CZJ Flektogon 4/50, Biometar 2.8/80, Zodiac 3.5/30, Tominon 4.5/135, Pullin Pulnar 2.8/100
Large Format: Ernemann HEAG Series VII version II 9x12 with Kodak Anastigmat 6.3/170
Konica Hexanons 4/21, 2.8/24, 3.5/28, 2.8/35, 1.8/40, 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 1.8/50, 3.2/135, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 4.5/300, 3.5-4.5/35-70, 4-4.6/28-135, 3.5/35-70, UC 3.5/45-100, 4/70-150, 4/65-135, UC 4/80-200. Hexars 3.5/28, 3.5/135, Konishiroku 2.8/35
Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.8/35, Skoparex 3.4/35, Tessar 2.8/50, Sonnar 1.5/50, Biotar 2/58, Pancolar 1.8/50, Cardinar 4/100, Zeiss-Opton Biogon 2.8/35
Meyer/Pentacons 2.8/28, Primagon 4.5/35, Trioplan 2.9/50, 1.8/50, 2.4/50, Primotar 3.5/50, Primotar 3.5/135
Topcon RE Auto Topcors 1.8/58, 3.5/135, 5.6/200
Russians: OKC1-18-1 2.8/18, OKC1-28-1 2.8/28, Jupiter-12 2.8/35, Jupiter-8 2/50, Industar-50 3.5/50, Industar-26M 2.8/50, Industar-22 3.5/50, Zenitar M2S 2/50, Helios-44-2, Jupiter-9 2/85, Jupiter-11 4/135, Tair-3C 4.5/300
Tokina 3.5/17, Nikon Auto Nikkor-N 2.8/24, Nikon Micro-Nikkor-P 3.5/55, Ross Xpress 3.5/4in, Ross Xpress 4/5in, Ross Xpress 4.5/8.5in, Wollensak APO-Raptar 10/541

[ForenSeil]

Bye the way, I stumpled of that nice pic: TriX400 with Rodinal at ISO 8000!!! http://www.flickr.com/photos/58491116@N06/7222350406/
_________________
Cameras in active use: IR/UV modified NEX-5N+EVF, NEX-C3, Pentax Q, Minolta XG9, Moskva 5 6x6 Rangefinder
Lenses in active use:
MF
Samyang 8/2.8 E-Mount, Docter-Optics Olympus 100x 1.25 finite macro lens, Tevidon 16/1.8, Tominon 17/4 (10x Macro), CZJ Tevidon 25/1.4, Novoflex Macro-Noflexar 35/3.5, Minolta MD 50/1.4, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Samyang 85/1.4, Rodagon 105/5.6, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Novoflex 400/5.6, Celestron 500mm F3.6, Novoflex 600/8
AF:
Sigma 19mm F2.8 E-Mount, Sony SEL50F18

My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language)

[Nisseliten]

Edit: I meant Tmax 100 and 400, not triX.. I always mix those two up
_________________

DSLR: Canon 550D, Panasonic DMC-GF3
SLR: Leica R3mot electronic, Leica R4s, Leica R4mot electronic. and more.
Medium Format: Many.
Lenses
Leica: 19/2.8, 35/2, 35/2.8x2, 50/2, 60/2.8 macro, 90/2, 90/2.8, 180/3.4, 250/4, 500/8 T-Noflexar 400/5.6
Other: When will it end?!
Canon: 50/1.8, 70-200 f4 IS

[fish4570]

arista premium 400 (tri-x) and hp5 with hc-110, dilution H.
_________________
Paul
I chase Light

http://blackcreekjournal.blogspot.com/

[BKSPicture]

All of todays film are very good.

The favorit must be the Kodak TriX becouse its very easy to press etc.

But for really cheap film I would say the Rollei RPX 100.
Have not tested the 400 but I would guess that its very good as well.
_________________
Homepage: http://www.bkspicture.com/
(My personal picture etc.)

Blog: http://www.blog.bkspicture.com/
(Lens & camera review, tips and tricks etc.)

[erkie]

efke25 and Beutler A+B
_________________

I shoot film and meter with digital

Asahi H3v, Praktica FX3, Retina IIa, Spotmatic sp1000, Fujica V2, Yashica lynx5000, Pentax Sf1, Minolta SRT102, Minolta7000i, Pentax MX, Pentax ME, Pentax Kx
lensesM42- Isco Gottingen Westanar 50/2.8, Isco Gottingen Westron 35/2.8, Rikenon 35/2.8, Spiratone Tc 105/2.5, Spiratone Tc 200/4.5, Sankyo Kohki Komura 300/5, Sankyo Kohki Komura 135/3.5, Auto Tak 35/3.5, Super Tak 150/4, S-M-C Tak 50/1.4, S-M-C Tak 28/3.5, SMC Tak 55/2, Mamya Sekor 55/1.8
K- mount- Helios 44-K-4, Jc penny 28/2.8, Da 18-55, Da 55-300, Pentax F 35-70, SMCP M 50/1.4, SMCP M 50/1.7