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badgerhill
Joined: 12 Jun 2008
Posts: 56
Location: New Hampshire, USA
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 Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 1:47 am Post subject: Why do my posted photos look slightly "washed out" |
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HELP!
I notice that the photos I post seem to lose a bit of brilliance. I save them in Photoshop at 100dpi then convert the .psd file to a .jpg file optimized, 100% quality and when they appear on the web they're slightly washed out????? As you probably know you can preview the web image in Photoshop and even when I try to increase saturation a bit there is no change in the web image. I'm baffled. Any suggestions? |
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008
Posts: 813
Location: San Francisco, USA
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| Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 6:34 am Post subject: |
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Hmm.
I just hit the Photoshop "Auto Contrast" whenever anything isn't looking too good and it clears things up. Maybe a little too much, often.
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Pentax K100D, SV, SP1000, SP500, LX, SF10, Mamiya 1000TL, Sears/Ricoh TLS, Exakta VX, VXIIb, Olympus OM-10, Nikon FM, Zeiss Contaflex B, Retina Reflex S, IV, Rolleiflex, Speed Graphic & Meridian 4x5, misc. rangefinders and folders, several dozen lenses and etc., et. al., ad infinitum. |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 11664
Location: West Emilia
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| Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 8:51 am Post subject: Re: Why do my posted photos look slightly "washed out&a |
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| badgerhill wrote: | HELP!
I notice that the photos I post seem to lose a bit of brilliance. I save them in Photoshop at 100dpi then convert the .psd file to a .jpg file optimized, 100% quality and when they appear on the web they're slightly washed out????? As you probably know you can preview the web image in Photoshop and even when I try to increase saturation a bit there is no change in the web image. I'm baffled. Any suggestions? |
You need to convert the colour space before exporting to JPG.
When you have finished your editing in Photoshop, go to menu "Edit>Convert to Profile" and as destination space, select "sRGB IEC61966-2.1"
Now you can export your file to JPG and it will retain the intended colours.
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ХОРИОС-61 ( ώρεος ) : Lens sana in corpore sano
Main Tools:
LENSES: Carl Zeiss, Leitz, Soviet, old Nikkors, others.
DSLR: Canon EOS 5D, 50D. SLR: Contax AX, RX, 167MT; Voigtländer Bessaflex TM; Praktica FX2; Nikon FM2, F70.
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ChrisLilley
Joined: 01 Jan 2008
Posts: 940
Location: Nice, France
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| Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 10:23 am Post subject: |
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| luisalegria wrote: | Hmm.
I just hit the Photoshop "Auto Contrast" whenever anything isn't looking too good and it clears things up. Maybe a little too much, often. |
That is not the cause of the error, if it looks fine in Photoshop and not fine when it is posted to the forum. I am sure Orio is correct here, its because the images are in AdobeRGB colorspace but are being displayed by a non colorprofile aware application (ie most Web browsers).
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Camera (ˈkæ mə rə), n. Device for taking pictures in bright light
There are 10 kinds of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don’t. Key: Ai-P, Ai, Ais, Ai'ed, pre-Ai
Camera: Nikon D40, DK-21M eyepiece, ML-3 remote MF lenses: Nikkor 20mm f/4 non-AI | Nikkor 28mm f/2.8 AiS late model | Арсенал (Arsenal) Мир-24Н (Mir-24N) 35mm f/2 | Cosina Voigtländer Ultron SL II 40mm f/2.0 | Nikkor-S.C 50mm f/1.4 non-AI | Nikon 50mm f/1.8 E | Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/2.8 AiS | Vivitar Series 1 (Kiron) 70-210 f/3.5 | Zoom-Nikkor 80-200 f/4.5 Ai | Nikkor 135mm f/2.8, Ai'ed 1976 model | Арсенал (Arsenal) ТЕЛЕАР-Н (Telear-n) 200mm f/3.5 | Nikkor 300 mm f/4.5 Ai (full equipment list) |
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ChrisLilley
Joined: 01 Jan 2008
Posts: 940
Location: Nice, France
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| Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 10:25 am Post subject: Re: Why do my posted photos look slightly "washed out&a |
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| Orio wrote: |
When you have finished your editing in Photoshop, go to menu "Edit>Convert to Profile" and as destination space, select "sRGB IEC61966-2.1"
Now you can export your file to JPG and it will retain the intended colours. |
Yes.
Furthermore, I recommend selecting 'relative colorimetric' as the method and checking 'black point compensation', for best effects. Unless significant portions of your image really are outside the sRGB gamut, this wil tend to preserve saturation better.
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Camera (ˈkæ mə rə), n. Device for taking pictures in bright light
There are 10 kinds of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don’t. Key: Ai-P, Ai, Ais, Ai'ed, pre-Ai
Camera: Nikon D40, DK-21M eyepiece, ML-3 remote MF lenses: Nikkor 20mm f/4 non-AI | Nikkor 28mm f/2.8 AiS late model | Арсенал (Arsenal) Мир-24Н (Mir-24N) 35mm f/2 | Cosina Voigtländer Ultron SL II 40mm f/2.0 | Nikkor-S.C 50mm f/1.4 non-AI | Nikon 50mm f/1.8 E | Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/2.8 AiS | Vivitar Series 1 (Kiron) 70-210 f/3.5 | Zoom-Nikkor 80-200 f/4.5 Ai | Nikkor 135mm f/2.8, Ai'ed 1976 model | Арсенал (Arsenal) ТЕЛЕАР-Н (Telear-n) 200mm f/3.5 | Nikkor 300 mm f/4.5 Ai (full equipment list) |
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Schnauzer
Joined: 09 Apr 2008
Posts: 642
Location: Maine
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| Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 2:04 pm Post subject: |
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I agree with Orio and Chris. A few years ago I had the same problem with pictures posted on the web and that was the problem
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Prometheus
Joined: 27 Feb 2008
Posts: 466
Location: Garphyttan, Sweden
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 7119
Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
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| Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 3:17 pm Post subject: |
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PS' "Auto Contrast" does influence the image considerably - definitely not "non-destructive"! 
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Lenses in use: Asahi Pentax: 2.8/28;3.5/35;1.4/50;1.7/50;2.8/105;28-80 | Canon (AF):1.8/50;17-85;75-300 | Former GDR: Pentacon 3.5/30; Pentaflex 1.8/50; CZJ 2.8/50; CZJ 4/135; Pentacon 4/200 | Fujinon: 43-75 | Hanimex: 3.5/23; 4/100;80-200 | Hoya: 25-42;80-205 | Kiron: 2/28;70-210 | Leica: Elmarit-R 2.8/35 | Mamiya: 1.8/55 | Minolta: 1.7/50 | Nikkor: 2.8/24;2/35;2/50;1.2/55;1.8/85;3.5/135 | West German: Ludwig 2.9/50; Meyer 2.8/100; Will 4.5/105; Schneider 3.5/135;Enna 3.5/135; Zeiss 4/135;Isco 4/135; Enna 4.5/240 | Olympus: 3.5/28;1.4/50;3.5/135 | Rikenon: 1.7/50;35-70 | Rollei/Voigtländer: 1.4/55;1.8/50 | Russian: Peleng3.5/8; Zenitar2.8/16; MIR2.8/37; Volna2.8/50; Industar3.5/50; Industar3.5/5cm; Helios2/50; Helios2/58; Volna2.8/80; Jupiter2/85; Kaleinar2.8/100;Tair2.8/135; Jupiter3.5/135; Jupiter4/135; Telear3.5/200; Jupiter4/200; Tair4.5/300;RF: Jupiter2.8/35;Industar2.8/53 | Sigma: 28-85;28-105(AF);17-70(AF) | Soligor: 28-105;35-200;70-220 | Tamron: 2.5/24;2.5/135;2.8/135;60-300;70-210 | Tokina: 28-105;80-200;12-24(AF);70-210(AF) | Vivitar: 3.5/17;2/24;2/28;2.5/28;2.8/28 | Yashica: 1.7/50;2/5cm | Other Japanese: Cosina3.8/20; Petri2.8/28; Albinar2.8/28; Porst1.8/35; 2.8/135; Weltblick3.5/135; Beroflex 8/500; Spiratone28-200; Maginon70-210
Green are the lenses I shoot the most.
More? http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65
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bob955i
Joined: 15 Apr 2007
Posts: 1715
Location: Scotland
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| Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 4:20 pm Post subject: |
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| LucisPictor wrote: | | PS' "Auto Contrast" does influence the image considerably - definitely not "non-destructive"! |
Yes - check the histogram before and after.....
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lahnet
Joined: 10 Apr 2007
Posts: 570
Location: Denmark
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| Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 4:22 pm Post subject: |
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I have also had the same problem. After setting Photoshop like this the problem is gone. I think it is the same as Orio and Chris suggests.
Hope it helps.
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 11664
Location: West Emilia
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| Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 5:05 pm Post subject: |
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I do not recommend to set working colourspace to sRGB.
sRGB has less colours and to work inside it means to reduce the shadings in your pictures.
My recommendation is to keep AdobeRGB as working colourspace, and only convert to sRGB (using the procedure I described above) when you need to output a JPG file.
The original TIF file should always be kept saved with AdobeRGB embedded.
_________________
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ХОРИОС-61 ( ώρεος ) : Lens sana in corpore sano
Main Tools:
LENSES: Carl Zeiss, Leitz, Soviet, old Nikkors, others.
DSLR: Canon EOS 5D, 50D. SLR: Contax AX, RX, 167MT; Voigtländer Bessaflex TM; Praktica FX2; Nikon FM2, F70.
RANGEFINDERS: Contax G2, Kiev-4, Voigtlaender Bessa-T, Canonette QL17. MEDIUM FORMAT: Pentacon 6, Zeiss Super Ikonta, Agfa Record II.
Read Full List HERE
www.timelessphotography.eu
www.oriofoto.net
"Freedom is the right to tell people what they do not want to hear. " (George Orwell)
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lahnet
Joined: 10 Apr 2007
Posts: 570
Location: Denmark
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| Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 5:16 pm Post subject: |
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| Orio wrote: | I do not recommend to set working colourspace to sRGB.
sRGB has less colours and to work inside it means to reduce the shadings in your pictures.
My recommendation is to keep AdobeRGB as working colourspace, and only convert to sRGB (using the procedure I described above) when you need to output a JPG file.
The original TIF file should always be kept saved with AdobeRGB embedded. |
That is of course very true. I have thought of this and also tried to see if it is possible to see the different when printing (home and out of home). To me it is impossible to see any different but maybe others can.
I shoot i RAW and after my RAW workflow is done, files are saved as TIFF or DNG in AdobeRGB. It is first when I import the files into Photoshop the convetion to SRGB is done.
Mabye not the perfect way but it works for me.
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Schnauzer
Joined: 09 Apr 2008
Posts: 642
Location: Maine
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| Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 5:18 pm Post subject: |
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I change to sRGB last thing before saving for web.
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Ron |
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badgerhill
Joined: 12 Jun 2008
Posts: 56
Location: New Hampshire, USA
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| Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 5:45 pm Post subject: |
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I'm trying everyone's suggestions. But no matter what I try there's a difference between the previewed web pic and my more natural original. I'll keep trying. By the way in the color settings dialog box theres a"More Options" button. I'm trying them all...but there are lots of permutations.
Thanks for the tips everyone.  |
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Rob Leslie
Joined: 20 Mar 2007
Posts: 662
Location: UK Swindon
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| Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 7:59 pm Post subject: |
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The simplest way is to use ‘Save for Web’
Using this option means you get a good preview of what the image should look like on the web.
Thats why it is there.
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http://roblesliephotography.blogspot.com
Last edited by Rob Leslie on Tue Jun 17, 2008 12:14 am; edited 2 times in total |
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