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ChrisLilley
Joined: 01 Jan 2008
Posts: 906
Location: Nice, France
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 Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 9:05 pm Post subject: |
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| Orio wrote: | I do not recommend to set working colourspace to sRGB.
sRGB has less colours and to work inside it means to reduce the shadings in your pictures.
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A small correction (sorry to be picky)
sRGB does not have less colors. At 8 bits per component each RGB colour space has 16.7 million colours. sRGB does enclose a smaller volume of the total possible colours (a smaller gamut) which means that its colours are packed closer together. AdobeRGB has a wider gamut, so its colours are further apart. The choice between them is in both cases a trade off.
At 16 bits per component the above argument still holds but the spacing between colours has become so small that it makes no effective difference; thus in 16 bits per component AdobeRGB is clearly superior for general processing.
| Orio wrote: | My recommendation is to keep AdobeRGB as working colourspace, and only convert to sRGB (using the procedure I described above) when you need to output a JPG file.
The original TIF file should always be kept saved with AdobeRGB embedded. |
Yes.
Set your working space to AdobeRGB and convert down to sRGB as a final step, assuming you start from a RAW file at 16 bits per component and work at 16 bits throughout.
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Camera (ˈkæ mə rə), n. Device for taking pictures in bright light (lenses in use)
Camera: Nikon D40, DK-21M eyepiece, ML-3 remote MF lenses: Nikkor 20mm f/4 non-AI | Nikkor 28mm f/2.8 AiS late model | Cosina Voigtländer Ultron SL II 40mm f/2.0 | Nikkor-S.C 50mm f/1.4 non-AI | Nikon 50mm f/1.8 E | Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/2.8 AiS | Vivitar Series 1 (Kiron) 70-210 f/3.5 | Zoom-Nikkor 80-200 f/4.5 Ai | Nikkor 135mm f/2.8, Ai'ed 1976 model | Арсенал (Arsenal) ТЕЛЕАР-Н (Telear-n) 200mm f/3.5 | Nikkor 300 mm f/4.5 Ai |
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ChrisLilley
Joined: 01 Jan 2008
Posts: 906
Location: Nice, France
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| Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 9:10 pm Post subject: |
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| lahnet wrote: | | I have also had the same problem. After setting Photoshop like this the problem is gone. |
Note that the way you have it set up, an RGB image in any other colour space than ssRGB is silently converted to sRGB on opening. If you are only using Photoshop to make JPEGs then that may be okay; if you are doing any other editing then its probably not a good idea.
_________________
Camera (ˈkæ mə rə), n. Device for taking pictures in bright light (lenses in use)
Camera: Nikon D40, DK-21M eyepiece, ML-3 remote MF lenses: Nikkor 20mm f/4 non-AI | Nikkor 28mm f/2.8 AiS late model | Cosina Voigtländer Ultron SL II 40mm f/2.0 | Nikkor-S.C 50mm f/1.4 non-AI | Nikon 50mm f/1.8 E | Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/2.8 AiS | Vivitar Series 1 (Kiron) 70-210 f/3.5 | Zoom-Nikkor 80-200 f/4.5 Ai | Nikkor 135mm f/2.8, Ai'ed 1976 model | Арсенал (Arsenal) ТЕЛЕАР-Н (Telear-n) 200mm f/3.5 | Nikkor 300 mm f/4.5 Ai |
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ChrisLilley
Joined: 01 Jan 2008
Posts: 906
Location: Nice, France
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| Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 9:13 pm Post subject: |
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This thread might be better in "Techniques (shooting, developing, printing)" perhaps?
_________________
Camera (ˈkæ mə rə), n. Device for taking pictures in bright light (lenses in use)
Camera: Nikon D40, DK-21M eyepiece, ML-3 remote MF lenses: Nikkor 20mm f/4 non-AI | Nikkor 28mm f/2.8 AiS late model | Cosina Voigtländer Ultron SL II 40mm f/2.0 | Nikkor-S.C 50mm f/1.4 non-AI | Nikon 50mm f/1.8 E | Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/2.8 AiS | Vivitar Series 1 (Kiron) 70-210 f/3.5 | Zoom-Nikkor 80-200 f/4.5 Ai | Nikkor 135mm f/2.8, Ai'ed 1976 model | Арсенал (Arsenal) ТЕЛЕАР-Н (Telear-n) 200mm f/3.5 | Nikkor 300 mm f/4.5 Ai |
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lahnet
Joined: 10 Apr 2007
Posts: 534
Location: Denmark
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| Posted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 7:06 am Post subject: |
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| ChrisLilley wrote: | | lahnet wrote: | | I have also had the same problem. After setting Photoshop like this the problem is gone. |
Note that the way you have it set up, an RGB image in any other colour space than ssRGB is silently converted to sRGB on opening. If you are only using Photoshop to make JPEGs then that may be okay; if you are doing any other editing then its probably not a good idea. |
Yes- Today it is possible to make almost every adjustment in ACR while the file still is 16bit and still use AdobeRGB. The file is saved as DNG. This is the best way I believe.
If I need to use Photoshop, it is almost every time because I want to show it on the web, or need to prepare the file for printing.
I therefore tested if I could see any differens at all when printing, and I must say that for me it is impossible.
If anyone actually can see differens, I would very much like to know
Until now I have thought that the differens only matters i theory, but maybe it is time to chance my mind 
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Henrik
Lahnet-Foto
My FLICKR
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Rob Leslie
Joined: 20 Mar 2007
Posts: 635
Location: UK Swindon
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| Posted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 11:28 pm Post subject: |
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| lahnet wrote: | | ChrisLilley wrote: | | lahnet wrote: | | I have also had the same problem. After setting Photoshop like this the problem is gone. |
Note that the way you have it set up, an RGB image in any other colour space than ssRGB is silently converted to sRGB on opening. If you are only using Photoshop to make JPEGs then that may be okay; if you are doing any other editing then its probably not a good idea. |
Yes- Today it is possible to make almost every adjustment in ACR while the file still is 16bit and still use AdobeRGB. The file is saved as DNG. This is the best way I believe.
If I need to use Photoshop, it is almost every time because I want to show it on the web, or need to prepare the file for printing.
I therefore tested if I could see any differens at all when printing, and I must say that for me it is impossible.
If anyone actually can see differens, I would very much like to know
Until now I have thought that the differens only matters i theory, but maybe it is time to chance my mind |
This all depends how you have your colour settings and how you print.
If you print with Menu – Print then you will never see any difference as the Printer is controlling the colour and ICM colour profiles mean nothing.
The way to print and keep your colour profiles is File – Print with preview and set to print ‘Print space Profile’
If all this is done right you will see a big difference between printing in sRGB and Adobe RGB. All this is dependant on everything else being set correctly in Edit – Color Settings and of course a calibrated monitor, right paper settings etc
Simply setting Adobe RGB without doing anything else is fairly pointless.
The best site to get the full info on doing all this correctly is
http://luminous-landscape.com
Read their Tutorials and Understanding articles or better still get their 61/2 hour camera to print DVD.
Also Epson does regular tutorials, as far as I know in all and every country that sells their printers.
Here is a basic start.
http://luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/und-print-mgmt.shtml
PS Maintaining the quality of your image should always be the first priority, so I agree with everybody else that Photoshop should never have sRGB as its working color space. Once your image is ‘Reduced’ to sRGB and saved it can’t regain the extra that Adobe RGB offers, unless you do another conversion of your RAW file. sRGB should only be used for the web, email and lab prints.
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Pentax K10D & K100D. Retired film cameras, Nikon and Pentax. Tamron Adaptall SP lenses, Fujinon f4.5 400mm. A loved Lens Baby 2, Lubitel triplet and many many others. Digital user.
http://roblesliephotography.blogspot.com |
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