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danikatia
Joined: 13 Nov 2009
Posts: 653
Location: Cernobbio Italy
Expire: 2013-10-26
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 Posted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 10:31 pm Post subject: Which 300mm lens? |
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danikatia wrote:
The diaphragm of my 3s Tair was destroyed .... I don't think I can recover it  .
We advise you some 300mm lens with the same quality of Tair? Should I try something else or buy it again?
Thanks for the help ....
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Daniele |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 57849
Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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| Posted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 10:43 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
I think you looking for M42 lens only due you have a Sony camera.
My suggestion is next:
All lenses have samples on forum and in mflenses.com/gallery.
Another Tair.. excellent lens others will be not better.
SMC Takumar 300mm f4 , short , light weight
Tamron SP 300mm f5.6 short, light weight
CZJ Sonnar 300mm f4 any version I prefer MC and Olympic
Pentacon 300mm f4
Meyer 300mm f4
I didn't like tokina, vivitar , komine etc lenses.
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Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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danikatia
Joined: 13 Nov 2009
Posts: 653
Location: Cernobbio Italy
Expire: 2013-10-26
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| Posted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 11:14 pm Post subject: |
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danikatia wrote:
Thanks Attila for the fast response. I looked at the samples several times and my impression is that the Tair, if not the best, is still among the top .... 
I just wanted a confirmation .... 
I think they will buy again .... 
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Daniele |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011
Posts: 15685
Expire: 2014-01-07
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| Posted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 11:14 pm Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Another Tair would be my suggestion, cannot be bettered for the price imho.
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danikatia
Joined: 13 Nov 2009
Posts: 653
Location: Cernobbio Italy
Expire: 2013-10-26
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| Posted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 11:32 pm Post subject: |
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danikatia wrote:
Thanks.... I agree, the price for the quality he has, is low..... 
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Daniele |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011
Posts: 15685
Expire: 2014-01-07
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 12:05 am Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Yes, I paid 35ukp for mine and I would be happy if I'd paid 10x that much, I like it so much, I have grown to actually like the weight of the thing, makes it so easy to hold it steady.
Just about to go shoot the full moon with my Tair, I'll post a sample shortly.
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011
Posts: 15685
Expire: 2014-01-07
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 1:12 am Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Hmm, I'm terrible at moon shots and the Prinz Galaxy 3x TC I added to my Tair didn't help but I did manage this:
No PP at all apart from increasing brightness a bit, as it came out of the camera. The TC has added some CA around the edges of the moon that is not there with the Tair on it's own.
Same shot cropped at 100% and with some noise reduction to get rid of that CA, no sharpening as when I tried to sharpen it it just made the noise more visible. I find the EOS 10D produces very noisy images, even at ISO 100.
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martyn_bannister
Joined: 23 May 2010
Posts: 1151
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 8:51 am Post subject: |
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martyn_bannister wrote:
Ian, I have found that shooting the full moon is exasperating. The final images always seem to lack contrast. Catch the half moon though and it's much better. |
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SXR_Mark
Joined: 12 Jun 2010
Posts: 506
Location: England
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 9:24 am Post subject: |
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SXR_Mark wrote:
How badly damaged is the aperture? Are some of the blades bent? If only one or two blades are damaged, I would try rebuilding it with those blades missing. The lens should still work satisfactorily.
I had a blade come loose on one of my TAIRs. Fortunately, I spotted it before it got damaged and was able to rebuild the aperture without too much trouble. The picture below is with the loose blade removed and the aperture closed. The effect of the missing blade is less obvious wider open. This is the view from the camera side. The rotating part of the aperture housing (just visible on the right) sits inside this bit. The upward facing pins on the blades fit in the guide slots of the rotating part. The trickiest bit is getting these pins in a position where they all fit in the guide slots at once, but it is possible to fiddle individual blades whilst the rotating part is partly in place.
The picture also shows there is some oily gunge on the blades. I think this is why the blade came out. The design is not very good and the fixed and rotating parts of the aperture body are not held together very securely. Thus, if the blades are sticky, I think the extra friction is sufficient to pull the blade guide pin out of the guide slot. A word of warning then to anyone with a Tair-3 and oily blades - clean them before the aperture falls apart!
With regard to my TAIR, I was able to insert the loose blade without removing all the other blades and then I cleaned them in situ with by swabbing the worst of the muck away with acetone and then sitting the blades in a bath of propanol to wash away as much of the oil as I could. This is not a perfect way of cleaning them, but I didn't want to remove all 16 blades to clean them individually!
Mark
PS. If the aperture is too badly damaged, I would still go for another TAIR-3 as a replacement 300mm lens.
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pat donnelly
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Posts: 666
Location: Brisbane, Australia
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 10:06 am Post subject: |
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pat donnelly wrote:
Waterhouse stops?
Some are for sale on eBay, possibly not the right size.
Easily home made though?
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EP-1, E-410, E-300, D100, D1,
C-Mt: 25mm 1.9, 75mm 1.4, 75mm 1.3, 75mm 1.9, Ultra wides, one inch sensor, 20+ c-mount zooms
OM 350mm f2.8, Nikkor 180 f2.8, Exa 180 f2.8,
Tamrons: 90mm f2.5, 500mm f8 x3, 135 f2.5, 200 f3.5, 24mm 2.5, 28mm 2.5 x8,
FD 500mm mirror lens |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011
Posts: 15685
Expire: 2014-01-07
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 2:18 pm Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
| martyn_bannister wrote: |
| Ian, I have found that shooting the full moon is exasperating. The final images always seem to lack contrast. Catch the half moon though and it's much better. |
Aye, the world's wobbliest tripod didn't help either! I was just pleased to have managed something, prior attempts were not a success!
I think I'll leave the astro work to the experts like yourself...
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martyn_bannister
Joined: 23 May 2010
Posts: 1151
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 4:40 pm Post subject: |
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martyn_bannister wrote:
| iangreenhalgh1 wrote: |
Aye, the world's wobbliest tripod didn't help either! I was just pleased to have managed something, prior attempts were not a success! |
Yeah, get a good tripod - well worth it.
| iangreenhalgh1 wrote: |
I think I'll leave the astro work to the experts like yourself... |
Would that it were true........... |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011
Posts: 15685
Expire: 2014-01-07
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 4:43 pm Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
I bought a heavy huge theodolite tripod for 35 quid new, just need to get a nice big Manfrotto or Gitzo 3d head for it now. I will mostly be using it for panoramas and in Cumbria it is always windy so the heavier and more solid the tripod, the better. Not looking forward to carrying it around with me though!
The voyage from amateur to expert is along the road of practice my friend!
Having said that, I can't see me doing much more moon work, I just don't have the right lenses.
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martyn_bannister
Joined: 23 May 2010
Posts: 1151
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 4:47 pm Post subject: |
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martyn_bannister wrote:
See here for something to aspire to..... and here for some decent kit  |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011
Posts: 15685
Expire: 2014-01-07
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 4:52 pm Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Dear god, that first shot is incredible!
The kit is far beyond my aspirations I'm afraid!
However, I have been on the lookout for a very long APO repro lens in the 600mm+ range, not cheap but you do sometimes see them on ebay fairly cheap.
I might try the moon again if I get one, have to mount it on a long cardboard tube!
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009
Posts: 7785
Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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| Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 5:06 pm Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
I think I saw footprints! That first moon shot is superb.
To the op, I would look for another Tair, although I have also got a Soligor 300 f5.5 that is smaller and lighter than the Tair, but most lenses are, and it's not a bad lens for the price. I paid about £20 for mine in excellent condition.
The Tair is slightly sharper, but the Soligor is a lens that I am pleased with.
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woodrim
Joined: 14 Jan 2010
Posts: 4060
Location: Charleston
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| Posted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 12:23 am Post subject: |
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woodrim wrote:
| martyn_bannister wrote: |
| See here for something to aspire to..... |
Oh yes, THAT is a moon shot.
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woodrim
Joined: 14 Jan 2010
Posts: 4060
Location: Charleston
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| Posted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 12:32 am Post subject: |
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woodrim wrote:
| iangreenhalgh1 wrote: |
Hmm, I'm terrible at moon shots and the Prinz Galaxy 3x TC I added to my Tair didn't help but I did manage this:
No PP at all apart from increasing brightness a bit, as it came out of the camera. The TC has added some CA around the edges of the moon that is not there with the Tair on it's own.
Same shot cropped at 100% and with some noise reduction to get rid of that CA, no sharpening as when I tried to sharpen it it just made the noise more visible. I find the EOS 10D produces very noisy images, even at ISO 100.
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Ian: If that first moon shot is from the camera without crop, then the 100% is suspect. More importantly, I think that shot could have been better had it not been for movement. I suffer greatly from vibration when using my big Meyer. My tripod is nothing great, but is really taxed by the big lens. I would imagine had I attached a 3x converter it would have been much worse. I found that I could not use my finger to release the shutter without significant movement, so I put the release on a two second timer. Still, the action of the mirror causes some vibration. Unfortunately I do not have mirror lock-up, but perhaps you do, so that along with the timer might help dramatically.
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Woodrim |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011
Posts: 15685
Expire: 2014-01-07
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| Posted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 3:25 am Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Yes, the first is uncropped.
Vibration was the problem, I couldn't find my cable release and if I used a faster shutter speed to avoid the vibration I would have had to use one of the higher ISO settings and that is a big no-on with my 10D as it is very noisy indeed.
I need to sort out the support for the lens/camera combo before trying again.
I forget what shutter speed that shot is at now, but not high enough to avoid vibration, I think that's why it's lacking sharpness more than anything else.
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uhoh7
Joined: 24 Nov 2010
Posts: 1300
Location: Idaho, USA
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| Posted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 6:01 am Post subject: |
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uhoh7 wrote:
I had my new Nikon 300/4.5 AI ED out today
above is handheld-----here a crop:
100:
it's very touchy at infinity, and even when you hit the focus, the atmosphere is always playing around 
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Last edited by uhoh7 on Sat Jul 16, 2011 6:06 am; edited 1 time in total |
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woodrim
Joined: 14 Jan 2010
Posts: 4060
Location: Charleston
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| Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 12:57 am Post subject: |
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woodrim wrote:
| iangreenhalgh1 wrote: |
Yes, the first is uncropped.
Vibration was the problem, I couldn't find my cable release and if I used a faster shutter speed to avoid the vibration I would have had to use one of the higher ISO settings and that is a big no-on with my 10D as it is very noisy indeed.
I need to sort out the support for the lens/camera combo before trying again.
I forget what shutter speed that shot is at now, but not high enough to avoid vibration, I think that's why it's lacking sharpness more than anything else. |
Ian: My point about the crop is that I don't know how that can be a 100% crop as it uses too much of the original frame to be cropped that much. A 100% should have shown a much smaller portion of the original image.
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Woodrim |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011
Posts: 15685
Expire: 2014-01-07
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| Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 10:10 am Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Try clicking on them then it's obvious it's a crop, the forum resizes the images, doesn't it.
The original is only 6MP.
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woodrim
Joined: 14 Jan 2010
Posts: 4060
Location: Charleston
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| Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 5:35 pm Post subject: |
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woodrim wrote:
Ian: There is a misunderstanding somewhere. Taking your original image of 3072x2048 pixels and cropping it at 100%, the result should be this:
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008
Posts: 6943
Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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| Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 6:09 pm Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
I've never understood the 100% crop. 100% is all of the image and if you crop that there will be nothing left.
Anyway, to the OP, get another Tair. I have a good one this time and use it instead of my Tamron 300 which is waaaaaaay light but CA is horrible. I use the Tamron on B&W film only.
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martyn_bannister
Joined: 23 May 2010
Posts: 1151
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| Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 7:06 pm Post subject: |
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martyn_bannister wrote:
As I understand it, and that means I'm probably wrong, a 100% crop of an image means a 1:1 ratio between the image pixels and the pixels in the monitor you are viewing it on. Thus, a 1280 x 1024 monitor displays a 1280 x 1024 picture at 100%.
A 100% crop of a 3072x2048 image means zooming in until you see a 1280 x 1024 crop of it. Of course, at the same zoom level, you can then take a 640x480 section of that image (or any other convenient size) and that is also a 100% crop !!!! Gawd, no wonder it's confusing!
A lot simpler to zoom until photoshop tells you it's 100% and then take a crop of that!
Of course, all this means that a 100% crop to one person, is only a 100% crop to another, if they have the same monitor resolution  |
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