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??? what to use to matt-black inside a lens-hood
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 12:13 am    Post subject: ??? what to use to matt-black inside a lens-hood Reply with quote
Any recommendations for the best non-reflecting lining material or paint with which to do the inside of a lens hood?
It is a 3" long, 82mm hood branded "Desmond" ... solidly made, but while it has a semi-matt finish on the outside,
its inner surface is coated with semi-gloss. Rolling Eyes


PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 6:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I hope that someone else can give you a better suggestion, but since so far nobody answered: how about a fllat black acrylic paint as e.g. sold by Tamiya for it's plastic'scale models', I think it works well on metals too: http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/paints-finishes-60/tamiya-color-mini-flat-acrylic-60200/acrylic-mini-xf-1-flat-black-81701


PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I have used Humbrol modellers' paint. Flat Black 33 is a nice matt black. It does not stick very well to bare metal though. It is ok when sprayed onto the inside of hoods.

Maybe black cellulose undercoat for car body sprays would be good for metal hoods. I haven't tried it so don't how matt it is (or even if it still available). Don't use on plastic of course because the cellulose thinner will melt it.

I also tried Plasticoat Flat Black, but this was really quite glossy. Useless!

Mark


PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
The problem with matt black paints is the 'filler'. They must be mixed absolutely thoroughly to make sure the filler is distributed evenly. It is this that that gives matt black it's appearance. If they are not stirred properly or the paint is old the filler clumps together and you get a streaky semi matt appearance.

I use blackboard paint from the pound shop, cheaper than Tamiya and Humbrol but does the same job. I had a tin from years ago and found it did the job.

Recently when making my home made microscope I noticed reflections so now I use 'funky foam' a product available in art and craft shops. Closed cell and matt black. Perhaps that may do the job. Funky foam is recommended by Lloydy as a material to replace light seals


PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Black matte paint was a great problem for my DIY projects. None of them proved to be strong enough.
After a lot of tests with a lot of paints I ended up with the common matte black car paint spray. After it dries I bake it in the electric oven (the kitchen type) for 1.5 hours at 120-130 Celsius degrees (a lot of tests to empirically find temperature & timing). It becomes very strong this way, strong enough for any photographic equipment and it has a nice matte texture.
Brass can be very well blacken with the gun blackening solution.

Last edited by dan_ on Sun Apr 20, 2014 12:40 pm; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
philslizzy wrote:
The problem with matt black paints is the 'filler'. They must be mixed absolutely thoroughly to make sure the filler is distributed evenly. It is this that that gives matt black it's appearance. If they are not stirred properly or the paint is old the filler clumps together and you get a streaky semi matt appearance.

I use blackboard paint from the pound shop, cheaper than Tamiya and Humbrol but does the same job. I had a tin from years ago and found it did the job.

Recently when making my home made microscope I noticed reflections so now I use 'funky foam' a product available in art and craft shops. Closed cell and matt black. Perhaps that may do the job. Funky foam is recommended by Lloydy as a material to replace light seals


In Tesco it's 99p for A4

http://www.tesco.com/direct/funky-foam-sheet-a3-black/226-0741.prd?pageLevel=&skuId=226-0741&sc_cmp=pcp_GSF_Art%20%26%20Craft_226-0741kpid=226-0741&sc_cmp=ppc_g__&gclid=CIqMzsL87r0CFabLtAodcQwA7g

But matt black can be a problem as I wanted to paint the inside of my darkroom and just couldn't find any cheap emulsion paint.


PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
The funky felt might be better, thinner and more flexible.


PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Excalibur wrote:
philslizzy wrote:
The problem with matt black paints is the 'filler'. They must be mixed absolutely thoroughly to make sure the filler is distributed evenly. It is this that that gives matt black it's appearance. If they are not stirred properly or the paint is old the filler clumps together and you get a streaky semi matt appearance.

I use blackboard paint from the pound shop, cheaper than Tamiya and Humbrol but does the same job. I had a tin from years ago and found it did the job.

Recently when making my home made microscope I noticed reflections so now I use 'funky foam' a product available in art and craft shops. Closed cell and matt black. Perhaps that may do the job. Funky foam is recommended by Lloydy as a material to replace light seals


In Tesco it's 99p for A4

http://www.tesco.com/direct/funky-foam-sheet-a3-black/226-0741.prd?pageLevel=&skuId=226-0741&sc_cmp=pcp_GSF_Art%20%26%20Craft_226-0741kpid=226-0741&sc_cmp=ppc_g__&gclid=CIqMzsL87r0CFabLtAodcQwA7g

But matt black can be a problem as I wanted to paint the inside of my darkroom and just couldn't find any cheap emulsion paint.


Thanks for the Tesco link. Out local art shop is closing after 120 years.

Why paint your darkroom black? If it is light tight it doesn't matter what colour it is. White would be best, it will seem brighter when using a safelight. A safelight is safe because of the colour of the light not the intensity. I've always worked in a white darkroom. I couldn't imagine how gloomy it would be painted matt black.


PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
If the black paint is not damaged and you only want to make it matte then a matte acrylic vanish (spray for painting type) could do the job better.


PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
philslizzy wrote:
Why paint your darkroom black? If it is light tight it doesn't matter what colour it is. White would be best, it will seem brighter when using a safelight. A safelight is safe because of the colour of the light not the intensity. I've always worked in a white darkroom. I couldn't imagine how gloomy it would be painted matt black.


When colour printing from an enlarger it has to be done in complete darkness, even rumours about not wearing a luminous watch....well when switching on the enlarger why take a chance of light bouncing off a shiny wall and getting back onto the paper.


PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Sorry I wasn't thinking of colour printing. What little colour I have done has been ok in a white darkroom. But I totally see the point now Wink


PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
philslizzy wrote:
Sorry I wasn't thinking of colour printing. What little colour I have done has been ok in a white darkroom. But I totally see the point now Wink


Probably doesn't make any difference in a large room, but I built a little darkroom in the garage (about 20 years ago) and the walls surrounding the enlarger were very close.
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