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What is the screwdriver size for most lens screws?
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 7:14 am    Post subject: What is the screwdriver size for most lens screws? Reply with quote

I want to order a screwdriver through my local optometrist but I am unsure of what the size is to get....it is one screwdriver with 5 bits to go with it.
I assume (have to check) I get a mix of Phillips head and flat.
Thanks
I did Google but got a little confused. Rolling Eyes


PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 8:07 am    Post subject: Re: What is the screwdriver size for most lens screws? Reply with quote

Mo-Fo wrote:
I want to order a screwdriver through my local optometrist but I am unsure of what the size is to get....it is one screwdriver with 5 bits to go with it.
I assume (have to check) I get a mix of Phillips head and flat.
Thanks
I did Google but got a little confused. Rolling Eyes


The screw driver has to be suitable for Japanese "phillips type" head...dunno if Halfords have a branch in Australia, but got mine amongst a set from this store.


PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 8:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is the size of the head...I know it's + or - 1.0 and less.I may just take a lens in and show them and they should be able to work out the size.The optometrist is kind enough to order a set for me as they use the smaller size screw drivers.


PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used my Swiss army knife to open most of the cheap lenses Smile I know it is not good but it works when the screw is not stuck. Here is another question, when selecting screwdriver, should I choose a hard metal one or soft one? A hard one would be better, right? But it might damage the screw if one use a lot of strengh.......

By the way, I think a smallest set would be nessary cause some lenses have very tiny screw. And if the screw Driver could be magntic polarized that would be better , I have lost two tiny screws when trying to mount them back Sad


PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the cheap screwdriver and it left it's point in the screw....so I am going for a hardened screw driver bit.It will cost me more but I think it is worth it in the long term.


PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mo-Fo, the tiniest set screws on any lenses are about 1mm diameter and it's vital to use a 1mm screwdriver not to damage the thread. At the moment I'm using a cheap set of 6 jewellers' flat blade screwdrivers I bought in the night market at Hong Kong for about HK$10. The smallest blade is 1.0mm going up to 3.8mm, but I only need the 3 smallest ones. I had to grind them down slightly as the blades were too thick for the screw slots. They don't last for ever but plenty long enough, and it's very cheap to buy another set. The Phillips screws are mostly small too, the screwdriver I use most has a 2mm diameter shaft, and occasionally I need a 3mm for larger screws.


PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 9:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Peter that was what I was after. Very Happy


PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 12:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The screwdrivers you need are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) if you want them for Japanese made lenses...Google JIS screwdrivers for a list of distributors


PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 2:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

use cross-point screwdriver for cross-point screws and phillips-head screwdriver for phillips-head screws...


PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 2:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I realize it would be a long swim and an even longer drive; but Home Depot has for under $10 a small screwdriver set with storage in the handle for the extra bits. I have not found a screw yet that one or another will not fit.


PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 3:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy Would love to go to the USA but I don't think my husband would buy the story of ..."I am just going to the shops to pick up a screwdriver....back in ..errr...a minute" Laughing
Thanks for the other info


PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What seriusdogstar said. Most of the phillips-looking screws you find on cameras and lenses are crosspoints, which have a different angle than phillips do. You should use crosspoint drivers for crosspoint screws. However, as a practical matter, I have not found much difference.

Usually a set of jewelers screwdrivers that includes both cross/phillips and flat blades will be adequate. Most of the newer lenses (mid-70s and newer) use cross-type screws, while many of the older ones use slotted screws.

You'll need some really tiny screwdrivers, usually flat-bladed, for some of the tiny grubscrews you run across. I've also occasionally run across tiny allen-head screws, and it can be quite a challenge finding allen wrenches to fit this tiny allen grub screws. Fortunately, they're not all that common in lenses.


PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Michael I did miss that .....That there are 2 different screw types= Cross/Phillips head.I am assuming the Optometrists use the same jewelers drivers.I guess when I order I will find out soon enough. Smile


PostPosted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

00 is the most useful size in x-point, then 0. Other sizes are found but I have 000 & 0000 (tiny) that are 30 years old and have only been used a few times. Flat-blades you need all sizes up to 4mm. for some lenses.
Quality is important to avoid damaging screws - thrift store sets of drivers IMHO are worse than useless for this reason. The driver must fit the screw pefectly or it leaves burrs.
All my drivers have handles made more "grippable" by forcing short lengths of hose over them. Some ballpoint pens have rubber grips that fit. You need to be able to exert force on a tight screw without losing control and this is much easier with a thicker handle.


PostPosted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

These have worked very well for me for lenses - the middle two gets used the most. Infact I will be picking just the small flathead up next time I swing by the local hardware store.

http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-Tools-Screw-Driver-Set/dp/B00018AO0W



Regards


PostPosted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 10:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kathmandu beat me to it! Wink

I have the same set, made by Wiha of Germany.
It's a set if 1.5, 2, 2.5 & 3mm slotted and #00, #0 & #1 Phillips.
These are of much higher quality than many others you'll commonly find.
Very easy to find, and they won't break the bank.


PostPosted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 11:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For anyone out there who is really serious about owning competent tools the Niwa XPT replaceable-blade drivers are the best I've found in many years of looking.
Used them all day, every day, for fifteen years or so.
Blades are tough and almost never brittle - the fit is reliable and so is the quality control. I suppose I should say "was" because it's ten years since I had to replace one.
Handles have changed since I bought mine - the new type looks OK but I'll be buried with my older ones with the added hose grips.


PostPosted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 11:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

@unclemack : I will have to check out the Niwa XPT ~I am always looking for better Smile, 15 yrs of regular usage thats a very long time .I see that micro-tools sells them- by hose grips do you mean the ones in light blue that micro-tools sells on their webpage(image below)? Thanks for the information. I have the Wiha like I posted earlier,which works great for me -but I am always open for the greater screw driver.
IS this the one you have?


PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 12:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,
No, mine are older - look like normal jewellers' drivers but better made and with the same locking collar for the bits. No longer made I think.
Only plastic part is the push-on accessory grip, just a 2" length of air-line hose.
It's the bits that are good. When they do eventually wear out I regrind them for "specials," eg. trifoil before bits were available, micro Torx same reason.
Sometimes hard to find good tools except from the manufacturer of the equipment in the early days pre-internet.
With a very tight screw I heat the head with a soldering iron then press hard with the driver & give a quick but controlled twist - the extra torque & control provided by the grip really helps here - without it the bit can jump out of the screw head or chew it up.
The soldering iron is only for screws into metal of course!


PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 2:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

unclemack,
Quote:
No, mine are older - look like normal jewellers' drivers but better made and with the same locking collar for the bits.


Looking at the above picture to me it looks like the locking collar for the bits is cheaply made and the rest looks pretty good. Is that locking collar(in the picture) like the old one your are talking of?

Quote:
It's the bits that are good


That is good to know, they do sell the bits -I hope they're strong like the old ones.


Regards


PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 3:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I missed some jewelers tools on ebay...old ones not the cheap stuff Rolling Eyes
Thanks for the discussion guys.I love well made tools it's a credit to the craftsmen. Very Happy


PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 4:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, just looked closely at one of my Niwa drivers.
It's marked "NIWA PD 30 Japan" but I guess Niwa are by now probably made somewhere with lower manufacturing costs.
The locking collar on this does appear to be of much better quality than the XPT in the pic. and possibly larger too.
Makes me doubt that the current bits will be of similar quality to the ones I've always used - hardening & tempering of small parts needs good QC.
I may order another 10 bits in size 00 just to see if they're up to snuff.
When I need longer shaft drivers for deeply-recessed screws I sometimes use the same ones that you have and find them perfectly adequate.
Size 00 is really critical for me though because it's quite small and is used at least ten times more frequently than any other for most modern cameras & lenses.