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Vivitar/Kiron 24mm f2
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 12:11 am    Post subject: Vivitar/Kiron 24mm f2 Reply with quote

I just found one of these at a local Salvation Army store for $30. The lens does have two issues: The aperture is stuck, and there's a smudge/hazy spot inside the rear group. I did some searching and found some instructions from Luis for fixing the stuck aperture, so I think that problem's in the bag.

For the glass, though, how do I further disassemble the rear group?


PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 3:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rear group just unscrews from the body. It's easy to get a hold of with the mount off. Or did you mean disassembling the rear group itself?


PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 3:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, I've already made it that far. The rear group itself needs to be disassembled - The smudge is between the last and second to last elements.


PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 4:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess I should have figured that out since you were working on the aperture. I had to clean oil off mine.
Good luck! Mine is quickly becoming my favorite lens.


PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had with oily aperture too, it is cleanable, but not very easy.


PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For a kiron brand (not the vivitar), how easy/difficult is it to fix a stuck aperture for a zero-experience person like me?


PostPosted: Sun May 09, 2010 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unfortunately no progress has been made with this lens. I haven't attempted to clean the aperture because the front side of the blades are much worse than the back side. The local repair shop won't touch "third party lenses" either.

Anyone have any ideas on how to proceed here? It's in really nice condition besides the aperture, clearly wasn't used much but was left in a hot place for too long. I hate to leave it in this condition.


PostPosted: Sun May 09, 2010 11:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try posting to the Kiron Klub group on Yahoo....Likely someone there (like Ralph) will know...My 24mm F2 is the Komine made version...Here's the link if you were not aware of the group

Kiron-Klub@yahoogroups.com


PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 12:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you found any info yet? I have a Vivitar/Kiron 28/2 that I took apart to clean. They should be similar. In retrospect I didn't need to since I can only use it in stop-down mode anyway.

Let me know if you want details.


PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just picked up a Krion 24mm f/2 (doesn't say Vivitar anywhere on it) and it work smooth with snappy apertuer etc. I want to find an EOS EF adapter for it, does anyone know where I can find one?

Is it worth adapting to an 5DMK2 for video?

Thanks!


PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was able to clean the blades on a Vivitar/Kino 24/2 by just pulling the mount and the rear group. Then I used a cotton swab with naptha (lighter fluid), operating the iris over and over to get off as much oil as possible. Probably won't hold for more than a year, but not that hard to do periodically.


PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 7:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another update on this. Tonight I got the aperture working again.

For the back side of the blades, I made numerous passes with q-tips wrapped in lens tissue while opening and closing the aperture to draw out as much of the oil as possible. The back now appears completely clean.

For the front side of the aperture, I placed a folded piece of a lens tissue between the blades and the next element and opened and closed the aperture, taking care not to let the edges of the tissue wedge between blades. Then I lightly pressed the blades down using a q-tip. I repeated this process several times with a new piece each time. The front of the blades are not completely clean, but it has helped. Attacking from the front would be preferred, but I lack the tools to go in this way.

Since the lens is only going to be used stopped down on an adapter, I also removed the spring that returns the aperture linkage lever, and I switched out the spring on the aperture lever for a higher tension spring pulled from a cheap donor lens (In this case a Komine-made 28/2.8).

I still need to address the haze in the rear group, if that's even possible. I'm hoping those elements aren't cemented. I'll probably pose this question to the Kiron Klub. If it comes down to it I can probably pick up another broken one and swap out the rear group.


PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a thought...if you are ever able to completely remove all the glass and just have the aperture mechanics left behind, then a good soaking in napthalene has worked for me...just bathe it and while under the solution manually cycle the iris and it will flush any oil. I did this to a Minolta 58/1.4 and it worked great.


PostPosted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 3:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My first Vivitar-Kiron 24/2 (in PK-M mount) was also a basket case when received. Aperture was stuck open, no connexion to the linkage flag, and the rear element seemed fogged. The aperture was fixable (by hands more skilled than mine), probably just a missing ball bearing, but that fogging was due to element separation. Take a very close look at the glass -- if you see tiny bubbles, then you'll need to swap out the rear elements. And those can be hard to find. I sold mine for parts and bought one in decent shape.


PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

motleypixel wrote:
Just a thought...if you are ever able to completely remove all the glass and just have the aperture mechanics left behind, then a good soaking in napthalene has worked for me...just bathe it and while under the solution manually cycle the iris and it will flush any oil. I did this to a Minolta 58/1.4 and it worked great.


I think you must mean Naphtha (a name for light hydrocarbon mixtures similar to lighter fluid) - Naphthalene is a different material (a pure compound consisting of two fused aromatic rings) that is solid at room temperature...


PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 10:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can send these folks an email and see if you can get a quote, http://vphotoatlanta.com/ , member dawg has used them to get some of his vivitar lens serviced.


PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DConvert wrote:
motleypixel wrote:
Just a thought...if you are ever able to completely remove all the glass and just have the aperture mechanics left behind, then a good soaking in napthalene has worked for me...just bathe it and while under the solution manually cycle the iris and it will flush any oil. I did this to a Minolta 58/1.4 and it worked great.


I think you must mean Naphtha (a name for light hydrocarbon mixtures similar to lighter fluid) - Naphthalene is a different material (a pure compound consisting of two fused aromatic rings) that is solid at room temperature...


Yes, similar to Coleman liquid fuel but possibly not quite as clean...but definitely clean enough. It does say Naphtha on the can. It's a liquid and is sold at our local hardware stores...comes in a qt can just like mineral spirits, but I use it far more than mineral spirits...cleans stuff like a champ...dries quickly and doesn't harm plastics. Love the stuff!