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Mike Deep
Joined: 25 Oct 2008 Posts: 316 Location: Upstate New York
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Posted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 12:11 am Post subject: Vivitar/Kiron 24mm f2 |
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Mike Deep wrote:
I just found one of these at a local Salvation Army store for $30. The lens does have two issues: The aperture is stuck, and there's a smudge/hazy spot inside the rear group. I did some searching and found some instructions from Luis for fixing the stuck aperture, so I think that problem's in the bag.
For the glass, though, how do I further disassemble the rear group? _________________ Rocket Launch Photography
Olympus: 24/2.8 MC, 28/3.5, 28/2.8 MC, 35/2.8, 50/3.5, 50/1.8, 50/1.4 MC, 35-70/3.6, 75-150/4
Nikon: C 24/2.8, AI-S 28/2.8, K 35/2.8, F 55/3.5, F 105/2.5, F 135/2.8, F 200/4, No. 5T
Pentax: 28/3.5, 35/3.5, 50/1.4 (v1), 50/1.4 (v2), M 50/1.4, SMC 55/1.8, 105/2.8, SMC 135/3.5, 150/4
Tamron: SP 17/3.5 151B, 135/2.8 T-135, SP 300/2.8 60B, SP 35-80/2.8-3.8 01A, 80-210/3.8-4 103A, SP 1.4x TC 140F, SP 2x TC 01F
Vivitar: 24/2 (Kino), 28/2 (Kino), 50/1.4 (Cosina), S1 90/2.5 (Tokina), S1 28-80/2.8-3.5 (Kino), 70-150/3.8 (Kino), S1 70-210/3.5 (Kino), 2x Macro TC
Etc: Yashica 3.5cm/2.8, Fujinon 50/1.4, Yashica ML 50/1.4, Tomioka Yashinon 55/1.2, Mamiya/Sekor 55/1.7, Sigma 90/2.8
That's a lot of 50s. |
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slick204
Joined: 23 Feb 2010 Posts: 17 Location: Iowa, USA
Expire: 2012-04-22
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Posted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 3:08 am Post subject: |
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slick204 wrote:
The rear group just unscrews from the body. It's easy to get a hold of with the mount off. Or did you mean disassembling the rear group itself? |
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Mike Deep
Joined: 25 Oct 2008 Posts: 316 Location: Upstate New York
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Posted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 3:47 am Post subject: |
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Mike Deep wrote:
Yep, I've already made it that far. The rear group itself needs to be disassembled - The smudge is between the last and second to last elements. _________________ Rocket Launch Photography
Olympus: 24/2.8 MC, 28/3.5, 28/2.8 MC, 35/2.8, 50/3.5, 50/1.8, 50/1.4 MC, 35-70/3.6, 75-150/4
Nikon: C 24/2.8, AI-S 28/2.8, K 35/2.8, F 55/3.5, F 105/2.5, F 135/2.8, F 200/4, No. 5T
Pentax: 28/3.5, 35/3.5, 50/1.4 (v1), 50/1.4 (v2), M 50/1.4, SMC 55/1.8, 105/2.8, SMC 135/3.5, 150/4
Tamron: SP 17/3.5 151B, 135/2.8 T-135, SP 300/2.8 60B, SP 35-80/2.8-3.8 01A, 80-210/3.8-4 103A, SP 1.4x TC 140F, SP 2x TC 01F
Vivitar: 24/2 (Kino), 28/2 (Kino), 50/1.4 (Cosina), S1 90/2.5 (Tokina), S1 28-80/2.8-3.5 (Kino), 70-150/3.8 (Kino), S1 70-210/3.5 (Kino), 2x Macro TC
Etc: Yashica 3.5cm/2.8, Fujinon 50/1.4, Yashica ML 50/1.4, Tomioka Yashinon 55/1.2, Mamiya/Sekor 55/1.7, Sigma 90/2.8
That's a lot of 50s. |
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slick204
Joined: 23 Feb 2010 Posts: 17 Location: Iowa, USA
Expire: 2012-04-22
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Posted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 4:26 am Post subject: |
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slick204 wrote:
I guess I should have figured that out since you were working on the aperture. I had to clean oil off mine.
Good luck! Mine is quickly becoming my favorite lens. |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57849 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 9:31 am Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
I had with oily aperture too, it is cleanable, but not very easy. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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aleksanderpolo
Joined: 24 Jan 2010 Posts: 684
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Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 5:17 pm Post subject: |
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aleksanderpolo wrote:
For a kiron brand (not the vivitar), how easy/difficult is it to fix a stuck aperture for a zero-experience person like me? _________________ Panny GF1
Looking for: More articles to read
Current lens:
m4/3: 20/1.7; 14-45/3.5-5.6
C/Y: CZ 28/2.8; CZ 35/2.8; CZ 50/1.4
G: 45/2; 90/2.8
M: CV 35/1.4
Rollei: 50/1.8
m42: S-M-C Tak 50/1.4, Helios 44-2
F: AI 28/2; AIS 35/2; AIS 50/1.4; E 50/1.8
FL: 55/1.2
FD: Vivitar(Komine CF) 28/2; Kiron 28/2; nFD 50/1.4; nFD 35-105/3.5-4.5
AR: 40/1.8; 50/1.4; Adaptall 35-80/2.8-3.5
MD: Vivitar(Kiron) 24/2; MD 50/1.4
OM: 21/3.5; 24/2.8; 50/1.4; 135/3.5 |
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Mike Deep
Joined: 25 Oct 2008 Posts: 316 Location: Upstate New York
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Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 9:46 pm Post subject: |
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Mike Deep wrote:
Unfortunately no progress has been made with this lens. I haven't attempted to clean the aperture because the front side of the blades are much worse than the back side. The local repair shop won't touch "third party lenses" either.
Anyone have any ideas on how to proceed here? It's in really nice condition besides the aperture, clearly wasn't used much but was left in a hot place for too long. I hate to leave it in this condition. _________________ Rocket Launch Photography
Olympus: 24/2.8 MC, 28/3.5, 28/2.8 MC, 35/2.8, 50/3.5, 50/1.8, 50/1.4 MC, 35-70/3.6, 75-150/4
Nikon: C 24/2.8, AI-S 28/2.8, K 35/2.8, F 55/3.5, F 105/2.5, F 135/2.8, F 200/4, No. 5T
Pentax: 28/3.5, 35/3.5, 50/1.4 (v1), 50/1.4 (v2), M 50/1.4, SMC 55/1.8, 105/2.8, SMC 135/3.5, 150/4
Tamron: SP 17/3.5 151B, 135/2.8 T-135, SP 300/2.8 60B, SP 35-80/2.8-3.8 01A, 80-210/3.8-4 103A, SP 1.4x TC 140F, SP 2x TC 01F
Vivitar: 24/2 (Kino), 28/2 (Kino), 50/1.4 (Cosina), S1 90/2.5 (Tokina), S1 28-80/2.8-3.5 (Kino), 70-150/3.8 (Kino), S1 70-210/3.5 (Kino), 2x Macro TC
Etc: Yashica 3.5cm/2.8, Fujinon 50/1.4, Yashica ML 50/1.4, Tomioka Yashinon 55/1.2, Mamiya/Sekor 55/1.7, Sigma 90/2.8
That's a lot of 50s. |
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Screamin Scott
Joined: 13 Oct 2007 Posts: 1014 Location: Dallas, Georgia USA
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Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 11:29 pm Post subject: |
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Screamin Scott wrote:
Try posting to the Kiron Klub group on Yahoo....Likely someone there (like Ralph) will know...My 24mm F2 is the Komine made version...Here's the link if you were not aware of the group
Kiron-Klub@yahoogroups.com _________________ Cameras-Nikon D300, D7100,D610,FE2,FTN ,FT2,N90s, Olympus Pen EP-3 & Olympus OM-D E-M10
Nikkor AF Zooms=28-105/3.5D,28-70/3.5D,35-135/3.5, et al
Nikkor AF //50/1.8,//Nikkor MF//50/2ai,50/1.8ais 50/1.4ai,24/2.8ais,28/2.8ai,28/3.5ai,55microAis/2.8,105/2.5ai,200/4ai,300/4.5ai35-135/3.5Ais,et al
Kiron /Kino made lenses//70-210/4ai,28-105/3.2ai,30-80/3.5ai,Viv 28/2ai,35-85/2.8aiVivS1,105/2.8Ais Dine,24-48/3.8ai VivS1,50-150/3.8aiViv,28-85/2.8aiViv,100/2.8Nai Viv,70-210/3.5Nai Viv,28/2.5ai Viv Komine made Viv//24/2Ais,135/2.8aiCF,28-50/3.5ai,28-90/2.8ai Viv S1,80-200/4.5aiCosina made Viv 19/3.8 Ais...Also Sigma 24/2.8 Ais Tokina made24/2.8ai VivAF Sigma 21-35/3.5,& other lenses... A link to some of my Flickr albums...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/screaminscott/albums |
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slick204
Joined: 23 Feb 2010 Posts: 17 Location: Iowa, USA
Expire: 2012-04-22
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Posted: Tue May 11, 2010 12:19 am Post subject: |
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slick204 wrote:
Have you found any info yet? I have a Vivitar/Kiron 28/2 that I took apart to clean. They should be similar. In retrospect I didn't need to since I can only use it in stop-down mode anyway.
Let me know if you want details. |
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motleypixel
Joined: 12 May 2010 Posts: 135 Location: Austin, TX USA
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Posted: Wed May 12, 2010 3:46 pm Post subject: |
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motleypixel wrote:
I just picked up a Krion 24mm f/2 (doesn't say Vivitar anywhere on it) and it work smooth with snappy apertuer etc. I want to find an EOS EF adapter for it, does anyone know where I can find one?
Is it worth adapting to an 5DMK2 for video?
Thanks! _________________ -Roy
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John Shriver
Joined: 24 Dec 2009 Posts: 192
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Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 7:04 pm Post subject: |
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John Shriver wrote:
I was able to clean the blades on a Vivitar/Kino 24/2 by just pulling the mount and the rear group. Then I used a cotton swab with naptha (lighter fluid), operating the iris over and over to get off as much oil as possible. Probably won't hold for more than a year, but not that hard to do periodically. |
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Mike Deep
Joined: 25 Oct 2008 Posts: 316 Location: Upstate New York
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Posted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 7:26 am Post subject: |
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Mike Deep wrote:
Another update on this. Tonight I got the aperture working again.
For the back side of the blades, I made numerous passes with q-tips wrapped in lens tissue while opening and closing the aperture to draw out as much of the oil as possible. The back now appears completely clean.
For the front side of the aperture, I placed a folded piece of a lens tissue between the blades and the next element and opened and closed the aperture, taking care not to let the edges of the tissue wedge between blades. Then I lightly pressed the blades down using a q-tip. I repeated this process several times with a new piece each time. The front of the blades are not completely clean, but it has helped. Attacking from the front would be preferred, but I lack the tools to go in this way.
Since the lens is only going to be used stopped down on an adapter, I also removed the spring that returns the aperture linkage lever, and I switched out the spring on the aperture lever for a higher tension spring pulled from a cheap donor lens (In this case a Komine-made 28/2.8).
I still need to address the haze in the rear group, if that's even possible. I'm hoping those elements aren't cemented. I'll probably pose this question to the Kiron Klub. If it comes down to it I can probably pick up another broken one and swap out the rear group. _________________ Rocket Launch Photography
Olympus: 24/2.8 MC, 28/3.5, 28/2.8 MC, 35/2.8, 50/3.5, 50/1.8, 50/1.4 MC, 35-70/3.6, 75-150/4
Nikon: C 24/2.8, AI-S 28/2.8, K 35/2.8, F 55/3.5, F 105/2.5, F 135/2.8, F 200/4, No. 5T
Pentax: 28/3.5, 35/3.5, 50/1.4 (v1), 50/1.4 (v2), M 50/1.4, SMC 55/1.8, 105/2.8, SMC 135/3.5, 150/4
Tamron: SP 17/3.5 151B, 135/2.8 T-135, SP 300/2.8 60B, SP 35-80/2.8-3.8 01A, 80-210/3.8-4 103A, SP 1.4x TC 140F, SP 2x TC 01F
Vivitar: 24/2 (Kino), 28/2 (Kino), 50/1.4 (Cosina), S1 90/2.5 (Tokina), S1 28-80/2.8-3.5 (Kino), 70-150/3.8 (Kino), S1 70-210/3.5 (Kino), 2x Macro TC
Etc: Yashica 3.5cm/2.8, Fujinon 50/1.4, Yashica ML 50/1.4, Tomioka Yashinon 55/1.2, Mamiya/Sekor 55/1.7, Sigma 90/2.8
That's a lot of 50s. |
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motleypixel
Joined: 12 May 2010 Posts: 135 Location: Austin, TX USA
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Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 2:36 pm Post subject: |
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motleypixel wrote:
Just a thought...if you are ever able to completely remove all the glass and just have the aperture mechanics left behind, then a good soaking in napthalene has worked for me...just bathe it and while under the solution manually cycle the iris and it will flush any oil. I did this to a Minolta 58/1.4 and it worked great. _________________ -Roy
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RioRico
Joined: 12 Mar 2010 Posts: 1120 Location: California or Guatemala or somewhere
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Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 3:12 am Post subject: |
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RioRico wrote:
My first Vivitar-Kiron 24/2 (in PK-M mount) was also a basket case when received. Aperture was stuck open, no connexion to the linkage flag, and the rear element seemed fogged. The aperture was fixable (by hands more skilled than mine), probably just a missing ball bearing, but that fogging was due to element separation. Take a very close look at the glass -- if you see tiny bubbles, then you'll need to swap out the rear elements. And those can be hard to find. I sold mine for parts and bought one in decent shape. _________________ Too many film+digi cams+lenses, oh my -- Pentax K20D, K-1000, M42s, more
The simple truth is this: There are no neutral photographs. --F-Stop Fitzgerald |
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DConvert
Joined: 12 Jun 2010 Posts: 902 Location: Essex UK
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Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:42 pm Post subject: |
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DConvert wrote:
motleypixel wrote: |
Just a thought...if you are ever able to completely remove all the glass and just have the aperture mechanics left behind, then a good soaking in napthalene has worked for me...just bathe it and while under the solution manually cycle the iris and it will flush any oil. I did this to a Minolta 58/1.4 and it worked great. |
I think you must mean Naphtha (a name for light hydrocarbon mixtures similar to lighter fluid) - Naphthalene is a different material (a pure compound consisting of two fused aromatic rings) that is solid at room temperature... |
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mmelvis
Joined: 24 May 2010 Posts: 1326 Location: Florida,USA
Expire: 2015-05-09
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Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 10:53 pm Post subject: |
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mmelvis wrote:
You can send these folks an email and see if you can get a quote, http://vphotoatlanta.com/ , member dawg has used them to get some of his vivitar lens serviced. |
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motleypixel
Joined: 12 May 2010 Posts: 135 Location: Austin, TX USA
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Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 11:32 pm Post subject: |
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motleypixel wrote:
DConvert wrote: |
motleypixel wrote: |
Just a thought...if you are ever able to completely remove all the glass and just have the aperture mechanics left behind, then a good soaking in napthalene has worked for me...just bathe it and while under the solution manually cycle the iris and it will flush any oil. I did this to a Minolta 58/1.4 and it worked great. |
I think you must mean Naphtha (a name for light hydrocarbon mixtures similar to lighter fluid) - Naphthalene is a different material (a pure compound consisting of two fused aromatic rings) that is solid at room temperature... |
Yes, similar to Coleman liquid fuel but possibly not quite as clean...but definitely clean enough. It does say Naphtha on the can. It's a liquid and is sold at our local hardware stores...comes in a qt can just like mineral spirits, but I use it far more than mineral spirits...cleans stuff like a champ...dries quickly and doesn't harm plastics. Love the stuff! _________________ -Roy
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