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How to easily reduce the flange distance
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2022 4:40 pm    Post subject: How to easily reduce the flange distance Reply with quote

Some of projection and enlarger lenses have a very large flange focal distance, from 15cm to 25cm. This is an example, an interesting lens which makes part of the "problematic" list (the photo is the seller's courtesy)



Among other inconveniences, such as the need for a long and quirky adapter tube (which completely disbalances the whole setup), the downside of it is a huge loss of the light transmission. Being afapted, the lenses whose original largest apertures vary from f2.2 to f8 lose their light value in times.

I wonder if there is a simple way to shorten the flange distance, adding a correction lens or two. If yes, which lens(es) should be used? If you have an experience of DIY lens construction or adaptation of the kind, could you please share your findings.


PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2022 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In the telescope world, there is such a thing known as a 'folded refractor', where a series of flat mirrors are used with a long focus achromat (e.g. 1000mm focal length - 1000mm flange distance!) to reduce it's overall physical length.

Whilst the examples online are quite long, there is nothing stopping you getting creative like this:





This is the only way to my knowledge to shorten the flange distance of the lens without significant and fundamental changes to the optical prescription. You will lose some transmission from the mirrors. You could rearrange it to be more convenient. I don't know what sensor/film size you intend to cover but the mirrors could be quite small for anything full frame or smaller.

This is a much, much easier idea and doesn't require too much expertise.

I'm not sure why you say a long tube causes a "huge loss of the light transmission", and I'm not too sure its really worth it for a 150mm and 250mm lens- maybe the need for this will go away with adjusting expectations, but I just wanted to float the idea anyway.


PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2022 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

eggplant wrote:
In the telescope world, there is such a thing known as a 'folded refractor', where a series of flat mirrors are used with a long focus achromat (e.g. 1000mm focal length - 1000mm flange distance!) to reduce it's overall physical length.


I was also thinking mirrors.

The OP highlights the problem of the older long focus lenses: long lens barrels. This is why the telephoto lens was introduced: a lens group of positive power followed by one of negative power; an optical compromise but much friendlier on the camera bag (and photographer's back!)

eggplant wrote:
I'm not sure why you say a long tube causes a "huge loss of the light transmission"


Agreed, the long tube required to mount the lens in front of the camera has zero impact on light transmission of the lens.

Another simple option (but which would completely alter the character of the lens and likely ruin the performance at infinity) is to shorten the focal length by mounting a close-up doublet on the front. I'm sure that is not the OP's intention.


PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2022 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What an elegant solution, thank you for the idea eggplant! I also see a version with two mirrors, so that the lens alignment is straight.

I wonder if there are some ready solutions in the astro market, something of the kind of chinese helicoids.

As for general ideas you comment, I have to say I am not expert in optics. But what I know from practice, is that when you put a lens on extension rings long enough, you observe the loss of light transmission. In my experience, a 2x extender ring raises the shutter speed twofold with the same aperture, a longer bellow even more.

RokkorDoctor, what kind of doublet could work in this case? I'd be curious to try and to to see how it affects the IQ, waiting for the folded refractor to come.

Aside the aforementioned Minolta, I have for example an Elite 4.2/250 projection lens. It came with an adapter for slide projector which gives an idea of the long flange distance the lens has. Too long, in fact.




It is for sure an interesting lens, judging by a quick freelens experience. But operating with it is a true PITA.

#1


#2


So, an elegant mirror solution or a quicker lens reducer seem both interesting to me.


PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2022 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alex ph wrote:
What an elegant solution, thank you for the idea eggplant! I also see a version with two mirrors, so that the lens alignment is straight.

I wonder if there are some ready solutions in the astro market, something of the kind of chinese helicoids.

As for general ideas you comment, I have to say I am not expert in optics. But what I know from practice, is that when you put a lens on extension rings long enough, you observe the loss of light transmission. In my experience, a 2x extender ring raises the shutter speed twofold with the same aperture, a longer bellow even more.

RokkorDoctor, what kind of doublet could work in this case? I'd be curious to try and to to see how it affects the IQ, waiting for the folded refractor to come.

Aside the aforementioned Minolta, I have for example an Elite 4.2/250 projection lens. It came with an adapter for slide projector which gives an idea of the long flange distance the lens has. Too long, in fact.


So, an elegant mirror solution or a quicker lens reducer seem both interesting to me.


Extension used to get infinity focus is not like macro extension, in that the f/number of the lens is determined at infinity focus.
Your 2x extender no doubt has optical elements, so is a different beast called a teleconverter by everyone except Canon. Teleconverters alter the focal length so do adjust the f-number yes the actual physical aperture is the same.

A focal reducer (reverse of a teleconverter) will indeed reduce your rear focal distance but it will also reduce your focal length & the image coverage.
Close up style auxiliaries will also reduce the rear focal distance by effectively shortening the focal length of your lens. Large lenses to use like this are either poor quality or extremely expensive.

I do like the mirrored extension idea (preferring a binocular style offset folded arrangement to the pentaprism style) but alignment of he mirrors will need to be good to get reasonable results - otherwise the distances for each corner of the image will differ, making them focus at different distances.


PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2022 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DConvert wrote:

Your 2x extender no doubt has optical elements, so is a different beast called a teleconverter by everyone except Canon.


I expressed myself in a confusing way here. I used a simple vintage extension ring for macro shooting, just marked 2x. Meantime when I stack several macro rings together, I observe a clear fall of the lens' luminance.

I wonder if the Elite projection lens shown above and saying f4.2 as maximum aperture does not take this effect into account. It looks perfectly like many other projection lenses having native speed of f1.8 or f2.

Otherwise thanks for the note concerning the quality of the mirrors for the folded refractor. I see that it is not a simple trick to do.


PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2022 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DConvert wrote:

A focal reducer (reverse of a teleconverter) will indeed reduce your rear focal distance but it will also reduce your focal length & the image coverage.



Correct me if I'm wrong, but with the off-the-shelf focal reducers there wouldn't be a reduction in physical length. My empty EF -> Sony E adapter and my Metabones EF -> Sony E speedbooster are the same physical length, as that's just their nature.

I don't count anything else because the focal length changes and it's no longer the same lens, although starting with one of these long projection lenses and modifying the focal length for fun is still a cool idea.

DConvert wrote:

I do like the mirrored extension idea (preferring a binocular style offset folded arrangement to the pentaprism style)


From the diagrams I've seen of Porro-prism binoculars, which I assume is what you're talking about, there seem to be various factors that result in a pretty small prism size, that I'm not sure are* applicable to this lens which is abit larger aperture, and covering a large sensor at prime focus.

Although the idea of that tempts me more than setting up a folded mirror... I've definitely seen large prisms crop up on eBay for whatever reason.

DConvert wrote:

but alignment of he mirrors will need to be good to get reasonable results - otherwise the distances for each corner of the image will differ, making them focus at different distances.


Due to a short focal length you'd probably only need one mirror, and thanks to the advent of fully articulating screens + HDMI output to monitor + cable release, you'd be able to face the same direction of the lens even if the camera points backwards. Fun, eh?


I have a similarly long ISCO Projar 250mm, but their length is understandable when you realize they're designed to go up to 60x60mm/70x70mm film (see official brochures). It's abit wasted on my APS-C camera.

Paired with a GFX and this mirror setup, now that would be an interesting idea.


Last edited by eggplant on Mon Feb 21, 2022 10:12 pm; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2022 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

P.S. That lens looks like a rebadged ISCO Projar- sorry I can't find a better pic:



They are put in long lens tubes just like yours (this one for 350mm):



This seems to be an earlier/earliest body type of these lenses.

Funnily enough, the one I was talking about is the later-body version, and is also 250mm f4.3, and looks like this:



Not to derail the thread either, but- it splits into three, all the optics are contained in the front section, I used a 51mm step ring in the middle part which isnt the exact pitch but fits snugly enough.

Even in this later version, I can tell you- it has really bad issues with veiling glare even on the dullest of days and not next to any direct sunlight, maybe because the tube on mine is quite shiny.

The LoCA is pretty lairy, but again these are designed to cover much larger film than the APS-C camera I was testing it on. No glow, decent bokeh.

This model and similar are in an awkward spot, because I've got 7.5 inch (190mm) slide projection lenses at a similar aperture which are a bit nicer to handle, and 250mm or longer there are some fast aperture (f3.5-f2.8 ) slide projection lenses that are a bit more interesting proposition.


PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2022 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

(Not intended as the last word, because I might be wrong)

1. Because binoculars invert the image so that it appears the right way up, if those binocular components were used with a camera then that image would appear upside-down, wouldn't it?

2. The alternative binocular design is the Schmidt-Pechan aka the 'Roof' prism - which is the straight binoculars as opposed to the familiar zig-zag (Porro) mentioned before.

The advantages of hacking with such a component ought to include:
a) my understanding is that, because of the difficulty in aligning the two prisms, they come as a sealed unit.
b) hopefully easier to mount securely to the camera - just stick 'em inside a dumb extention tube?
c) consequently, a bit neater and more compact

I suspect there is a limit to how big the lenses, and consequently the prisms, can be in binoculars, because of the need for the tubes to align with the eyes. The ones in monoculars might be larger. Then again, half-busted binoculars are probably easier to acquire.


PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2022 10:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

-rageQuit- wrote:

The advantages of hacking with such a component ought to include:
a) my understanding is that, because of the difficulty in aligning the two prisms, they come as a sealed unit.
b) hopefully easier to mount securely to the camera - just stick 'em inside a dumb extention tube?
c) consequently, a bit neater and more compact



This is all somewhat true, but

-rageQuit- wrote:

I suspect there is a limit to how big the lenses, and consequently the prisms, can be in binoculars, because of the need for the tubes to align with the eyes.


Maybe I didn't explain well enough, so an image might help:



The aperture of a 250mm f4.3 is 58mm, the aperture of binoculars might be 50mm or larger, so you could get lucky-

I edited my post to reflect this, but I'm just not sure the prism in these is big enough for using the lens at 'prime focus', i.e. without an eyepiece.

Unless you have wide field binoculars, the magnification from the eyepiece + the tiny human eye aperture is going to result in a small prism size.

Could REALLY do with someone double checking me though... I don't think I'm far off though.


-rageQuit- wrote:
(Not intended as the last word, because I might be wrong)

1. Because binoculars invert the image so that it appears the right way up, if those binocular components were used with a camera then that image would appear upside-down, wouldn't it?



Not everyone's cup of tea admittedly, but I would sooner pull out or attach a small hdmi monitor which I can rotate the image of, if it meant avoiding having to consider a completely different kind of prism.

But that's not the final word, because I know you can just look into prism optics to figure out how to fix the orientation.

But anyway, I'm pretty skeptical of finding appropriate binocular prisms for the task...


-rageQuit- wrote:

The ones in monoculars might be larger. Then again, half-busted binoculars are probably easier to acquire.


They're even smaller in these in my experience, don't know if there's an expectation of monoculars having to be pocketable.


PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2022 12:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, so many insightful details, thank you!

A special thanks, eggplant, for the ISCO reference. The Elite does look like ISCO. I did not find any consistent information in the net regarding both, and I think, the reason is the too long flange distance.

After the first iteration of our exchange I thought about a Chinese ready-made monocular solution, something like that which is pretty cheap in general, or even a small cheap telescope. But then, reading your comment on the small exit pupil, I realize that this migh not be the best solution.


PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2022 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last year I tried to use a Zeiss Planitar 150mm (intended for flat field reproduction of A4 size originals). I mounted it in a suitably long plastic tube. But my blackening attempts were insufficient, so its wide light cone resulted in abundant haze-

p.


PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2022 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

eggplant wrote:
-rageQuit- wrote:

The advantages of hacking with such a component ought to include:
a) my understanding is that, because of the difficulty in aligning the two prisms, they come as a sealed unit.
b) hopefully easier to mount securely to the camera - just stick 'em inside a dumb extention tube?
c) consequently, a bit neater and more compact



This is all somewhat true, but

-rageQuit- wrote:

I suspect there is a limit to how big the lenses, and consequently the prisms, can be in binoculars, because of the need for the tubes to align with the eyes.


Maybe I didn't explain well enough, so an image might help:



The aperture of a 250mm f4.3 is 58mm, the aperture of binoculars might be 50mm or larger, so you could get lucky-

I edited my post to reflect this, but I'm just not sure the prism in these is big enough for using the lens at 'prime focus', i.e. without an eyepiece.

Unless you have wide field binoculars, the magnification from the eyepiece + the tiny human eye aperture is going to result in a small prism size.

Could REALLY do with someone double checking me though... I don't think I'm far off though.


-rageQuit- wrote:
(Not intended as the last word, because I might be wrong)

1. Because binoculars invert the image so that it appears the right way up, if those binocular components were used with a camera then that image would appear upside-down, wouldn't it?



Not everyone's cup of tea admittedly, but I would sooner pull out or attach a small hdmi monitor which I can rotate the image of, if it meant avoiding having to consider a completely different kind of prism.

But that's not the final word, because I know you can just look into prism optics to figure out how to fix the orientation.

But anyway, I'm pretty skeptical of finding appropriate binocular prisms for the task...


-rageQuit- wrote:

The ones in monoculars might be larger. Then again, half-busted binoculars are probably easier to acquire.


They're even smaller in these in my experience, don't know if there's an expectation of monoculars having to be pocketable.


The mirror system I was thinking off is an off-axis system shown in http://www.macrolenses.de/ml_detail_sl.php?ObjektiveNr=292
Not quite the same as either binocular arrangement


PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2022 1:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

eggplant wrote:
DConvert wrote:

A focal reducer (reverse of a teleconverter) will indeed reduce your rear focal distance but it will also reduce your focal length & the image coverage.



Correct me if I'm wrong, but with the off-the-shelf focal reducers there wouldn't be a reduction in physical length. My empty EF -> Sony E adapter and my Metabones EF -> Sony E speedbooster are the same physical length, as that's just their nature.


My understanding of the physics of reducers was that they require the lens flange to be closer to the sensor than a plain empty adapter, in a similar way that teleconverters need the lens flange to be further away. I've not measured my adapters to check if this is the case, but I think my reducer is slightly shorter. The difference is certainly less than I would have expected.
Perhaps a relay lens type arrangement can be designed in to adjust for changes in length. My focal reducer is a budget model not up to the standards of Speedboosters.