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Bronica Zenza Zenzanon-PE 75mm at F8 & Middle Distance
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 12:02 pm    Post subject: Bronica Zenza Zenzanon-PE 75mm at F8 & Middle Distance Reply with quote
Having previously posted some images shot at minimum focus distance, with the lens on my A7r3, I tried it at a more everyday distance, featuring some houses in my neighbourhood with useful brickwork for checking the sharpness of the lens

As I have indicated in my earlier post, this showed the lens to readily show flare near the middle of the image, even under cloudy skies. The image used here was with the lens pointed directly away from the cloud-covered sun.

I have taken two crops and processed each from scratch. The detail captured makes this one of my sharper lenses.

The lens was mounted on the camera via the Kipon Nikon F to Sony E shift adapter, its shift function not used this time.

The processing was my normal sequence plus a little extra contrast and a touch of Color Pop.

1/125 sec at ISO 100. hand-held.

Shot as RAW files and converted to TIFFs in Sony Image Edit for Photoshop processing.

I don't find it easy to use the Sony focus peaking accurately but seem to have been successful this time.









PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 4:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Focus peaking is mostly not so accurate. Do you ever use magnification? That works really fine IMO.


PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Regarding focus peaking, I'll second what caspert wrote. I follow a two-stage process. I use focus peaking to get me in the ballpark, then I bump up the magnification to fine-tune things. That seems to work pretty well, although I must say it appears that e6filmuser did a good job of focusing this one.


PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
cooltouch wrote:
Regarding focus peaking, I'll second what caspert wrote. I follow a two-stage process. I use focus peaking to get me in the ballpark, then I bump up the magnification to fine-tune things. That seems to work pretty well, although I must say it appears that e6filmuser did a good job of focusing this one.


Yes, it seems he did. What I usually do is first enter the focal length in order to get proper image stabilisation. Like that, the image in the EVF is pretty stable, and it is much easier to focus with magnification.


PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I use magnification regularly to examine in-camera images but never seem to have got around to using it to focus, the exception being when testing lenses against test charts.

With focus peaking I focus to and fro to get the most intense effect in the principle plane of focus.


PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2020 5:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I have just checked on the focus magnifier (adapted lenses) for the A7r3 and it is deep in the menu and needs to be set for each shot.

After about half an hour of struggling with the menus, I have allocated a button to Focus Magnifier.


PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2020 5:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
...

Last edited by Blazer0ne on Tue Feb 22, 2022 6:47 pm; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2020 6:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Blazer0ne wrote:

One of the most important is, on my camera, clicking the Trash icon re-centers the position of the magnifier.


I just checked and that works with my camera.


PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2020 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Having made my viewfinder magnifier accessible, I shot a similar image (f8, ISO 200) from the same viewpoint in sunlight. (The focus peaking accurately confirmed focus of the magnified view). I chose the brick, rather than the tiles for focusing.

The only difference in processing was that I used Topaz Clarity Brick Building 1 instead of one of its more general presets.

This severe crop shows the detail available.



PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2020 2:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
e6filmuser wrote:
Having made my viewfinder magnifier accessible, I shot a similar image (f8, ISO 200) from the same viewpoint in sunlight. (The focus peaking accurately confirmed focus of the magnified view). I chose the brick, rather than the tiles for focusing.

The only difference in processing was that I used Topaz Clarity Brick Building 1 instead of one of its more general presets.

This severe crop shows the detail available.



Considering the amount of mp’s your sensor has, this is plenty of detail!


PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2020 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
The proper Bronica hood just arrived. My first rectangular hood on any camera. It looks great.

A couple of quickie images of the lens with hood, mounted via Nikon F adapter and Kipon Shift adapter, on A7r3:







If the weather settles down to sunny I will shoot something a bit more interesting.


PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2020 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Excellent shots and quite a handsome setup on your sony!


PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2020 5:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
jamaeolus wrote:
Excellent shots and quite a handsome setup on your sony!


Thanks. I think I may just have become a poser! Laugh 1


PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2020 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I have now obtained the 40mm PE.

Using the above advice I now have the focal length selection, for the Steady Shot, available on the Fn menu.


PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2020 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Since the crop (your lens originally covers medium format), you could benefit from an hood for longer focal


e6filmuser wrote:
The proper Bronica hood just arrived. My first rectangular hood on any camera. It looks great.

A couple of quickie images of the lens with hood, mounted via Nikon F adapter and Kipon Shift adapter, on A7r3:







If the weather settles down to sunny I will shoot something a bit more interesting.


PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2020 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ultrapix wrote:
Since the crop (your lens originally covers medium format), you could benefit from an hood for longer focal


Good point. I could use it just for posing.


Ultrapix wrote:
If the weather settles down to sunny I will shoot something a bit more interesting.


I got back in a few minute ago, having done just that. This was really a "dress rehearsal" for something even more interesting tomorrow. Just as well, as I forgot to set the focal lengths, leaving it at 75mm. However, the light was so bright that shutter speeds were 1/1000 sec at f8!. I took shots with the two Bronicas, three Laowas (one with shift), a Vivitar and a Sigma. All should provide stereos.


PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2020 6:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
e6filmuser wrote:
jamaeolus wrote:
Excellent shots and quite a handsome setup on your sony!


Thanks. I think I may just have become a poser! Laugh 1


But, seriously, I won't bother.

a) The hood prevents flare irrespective of crop.
b) Even this hood doesn't fit the 40mm, same size but different fitting. The chances of a third party hood fitting is remote and sellers usually don't know which focal length their hood is for.


PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2020 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
e6filmuser wrote:


a) The hood prevents flare irrespective of crop.
which focal length their hood is for.


Certainly, but the designer is forced to limit the interference of the light rays to the framed field, otherwise there would be vignetting; by narrowing the opening the effectiveness of the lens hood would be greater, but the lens hood would enter the framed field. In a case like this, where the framed field is reduced by crop, the most appropriate thing would be to use a lens hood designed for the equivalent focal length resulting from the format conversion, i.e. a medium tele around 100/110 mm. If the 75's fit is the same as a Bronica medium tele, it might make sense, otherwise I agree it's not convenient.


PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2020 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ultrapix wrote:
e6filmuser wrote:


a) The hood prevents flare irrespective of crop.
which focal length their hood is for.


Certainly, but the designer is forced to limit the interference of the light rays to the framed field, otherwise there would be vignetting; by narrowing the opening the effectiveness of the lens hood would be greater, but the lens hood would enter the framed field. In a case like this, where the framed field is reduced by crop, the most appropriate thing would be to use a lens hood designed for the equivalent focal length resulting from the format conversion, i.e. a medium tele around 100/110 mm. If the 75's fit is the same as a Bronica medium tele, it might make sense, otherwise I agree it's not convenient.


If I had a recurring problem with flare or reduced contrast that would be an option.

I have just returned from another test shoot with various WA lenses on the A7r3. If there is a problem... Anyway these will have to wait a white, others being ahead of them.


PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2020 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Something a little more interesting

This is from as far back as I could get, with this lens, from this windmill, which is in a small plot surrounded by high hedges. So I was shooting upwards at an angle of 45 degrees or so.

Images for the whole windmill via other lenses will be uploaded in due course, only the 9mm done so far.

Something happened to get some dust on the sensor before these shots were taken. I have cleaned up the sky a bit but not for the crop).

These were at f11 ISO 100, hand held.

The stereo is crosseye.









One lesson was learned from this session. I used the Kipon Nikon to E shift adapter because I intended some to shoot shift images with other lenses. Attaching and detaching lenses, this one in particular, is a fiddle because the adapter allows the lens to readily rotate in 45 degree steps through the whole 360 degrees, with click stops which are not robust. So I will use a conventional adapter for other work.


PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2020 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ultrapix wrote:
e6filmuser wrote:


a) The hood prevents flare irrespective of crop.
which focal length their hood is for.


Certainly, but the designer is forced to limit the interference of the light rays to the framed field, otherwise there would be vignetting; by narrowing the opening the effectiveness of the lens hood would be greater, but the lens hood would enter the framed field. In a case like this, where the framed field is reduced by crop, the most appropriate thing would be to use a lens hood designed for the equivalent focal length resulting from the format conversion, i.e. a medium tele around 100/110 mm. If the 75's fit is the same as a Bronica medium tele, it might make sense, otherwise I agree it's not convenient.


Thanks for the nudge. I have finally gone for it.

Having obtained a 40mm with no hood, I had the option of demoting the 75mm to the 40mm and getting a hood for a longer lens for the 75mm.

I then saw a hood for a 105-150mm and it had the same locking mechnism as on my 75mm hood. It looked too good to be true.

Well it was true but not quite what I hoped for. I now had two hoods, each a very loose fit on a lens, So, I needed as snug push fit for each. I cut 3-4 narrow strips of tape (Gorilla brand) at stuck them to the outside of the tip of the 40mm lens. I had an instant push fit. The 75mm needed two layers.

I checked that neither lens with its substitute hood vignetted. The only problem is that the aperture ring is right up against the hood in each case. A bit of care is all that is needed for the 40mm to not dislodge the hood. The aperture ring is much stiffer on the 75mm so is best turned with the hood removed. I don't change aperture frequently so a lens service is not justified.


Here are some images, 40mm first. OK, the hood on the 40mm is upside down but that would matter only is the lock had functioned.

This time the Nikon F to Sony E adapter is a fixed, not a shift one.




















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