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Soligor(Tokina) 135/2.8 infinity adjustment
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 8:36 pm    Post subject: Soligor(Tokina) 135/2.8 infinity adjustment Reply with quote

I have a Soligor T-4 mount f=135mm 1:2.8 lens which is in excellent
cosmetic condition. It was included as a freebie with my Tamron SP 60-300
due to internal fungus on the front element.

Considering it a no-loss experiment, I decided to try my hand at dismantling
it for cleaning as my first try at such an activity, since a 135 wasn't much
of my interest at the time.
The cleaning actually went well; the fungus hadn't etched the glass or even
damaged the coatings.

I've taken it out again because it represents one of three Tokina-made Soligor
early-1970s lenses I own, and I'm interested in expanding this series collection.
I don't recall any difficulties in dismantling and reassembly, so I may be able
to actually get it back to proper order, but could anyone offer some
tips or advice for attaining true infinity?

I've come to realize that these 70s-vintage Tokina lenses are indeed of high
quality in terms of build and optics, with my 400/6.3 and 75-260/4.5
delivering the goods. Since I already own this 135, I'd like to put it in good order
and use it some as I try to expand the series.


PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take time to restart helicoid focus threads each beginning possibility until lens achieves infinity.


PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure I understand.

Do you mean to back helicoid off thread to place into
another thread position?


PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2018 12:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, helicoid has several places to start threading. Only one correct allows infinity focus.


PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2018 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, I understand now.

Thanks for the tip. Like 1 small


PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 11:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The advice worked, and it made obvious sense after going back in.
The focus scale seems reasonably accurate, I seem to be focusing
slightly past infinity, and it all seems to be a normal lens now.

There are a few screws on the focusing ring, two of which are larger
and beside each other, along the axis of the lens.
The front screw is apparently a locking screw after after infinity/proper
focus is attained. The rear screw is the stop for infinity and minimum
distance.

I fiddled with the lens more than ultimately needed, but here's the lowdown:

1) Remove rear screw of the tandem pair from focusing barrel.
This removes the stop from barrel travel.
2) Remove 3 tiny screws within T-4 mount and remove the backplate.
Note the position of the arrow and how it aligns with the notch of the
mount within the locking ring. Also note the aperture actuation pin,
which can easily fall out if the actuating lever flips over.
3) Turn focus past minimum until the front mechanism turns with
the focusing ring.

The lens mechanism is now incorrectly aligned and needs to be set right. Wink
The front assembly can now be unscrewed from the helicoid.

What is done from this point, is to closely watch the mechanism from the rear,
looking for the slots in the front element assembly. They match up to sort of
"pegs" or lugs on the outer assembly. There is also a pin inside the outer
barrel, which is part of the aperture control. This meets a 'fork' of sorts
within the assembly.

You'll want to set the aperture to the side of the scale used when mounted.
In my case, it operates to the left when using it on my camera.
The fork can be moved to all aperture settings across the two scales.
The movement is fairly free to operate on either side.

The trick is to keep the aperture ring at the right place, while watching the
mechanism movement from the rear. At minimum or maximum aperture
ring setting, you'll need to watch carefully for where the lugs meet
the outer barrel, match the aperture fork to the locating pin, as well as
holding the outer and inner barrels while independently rotating the
focusing ring to align the parts coming together.



After backing the assemblies apart and threading them back together
in different places on the thread, I seem to have restored this lens.
It appears to focus slightly past infinity and at least as close as the
6 ft indicated on the scale. Now it's time I put it to use.
Wink


PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 11:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Congrats Whoo Turtle


PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2018 9:01 am    Post subject: Soligor 135/2.8 infinity adjustment Reply with quote

Hi Craig,

Ive also recently purchased a Soligor 135mm f/2.8 M42, and am having similar issues as it wont focus to infinity,

Any chance you could post some step by step tutorial pics of your efforts?, it would be most appreciated

thanks

Tony


PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2018 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure how I missed your question until now, Tony.
Welcome to the forum.

I'm sorry, but I neglected to capture pics of the mechanisms and process. Rolling Eyes

Considering your mention of your own lens' copy being a M42 mount, I'm not sure
information about mine would be of any service to you.
Mine is a T4 mount, much the same as Vivitar's TX, which is similar
to the Tamron Adaptall/Adaptall-2 in that they allow fitting a camera-specific
mount to a lens which is designed for interchangeable mounts.
For example, these "base" mounts accept a camera-specific mount to allow
mounting to a Canon FD camera, or Pentax M42, or Nikon, Minolta, etc...
If yours is a M42 mount without the T4 'intermediary' coupling,
it would be very different from mine, mechanically speaking,
at the back of the lens.

It should also be noted that my copy is a known manufacture by Tokina
from 1971, as decoded from the serial number. If your own copy is from
an altogether different manufacturer, or even another series or decade from
the same, my experiences and descriptions might not apply a bit to yours.

Others here with more knowledge of Soligor lenses may chime in here
if you could provide the serial number and a few pictures of your lens.