Rubinar vs MTO

[woodrim]

Having experienced good success with my Maksutov (MTO) 6.3/500, I am now considering a 1000mm, either Rubinar or MTO. I've seen good results from each but wonder if anyone here has used and compared both. I'm inclined to go with Rubinar.

On another related subject, I have finally started using a tripod with my 500mm mirror and do find it easier to focus when not also trying to hold it still. However, I didn't anticipate so much shake while just touching the camera and especially when releasing the shutter. There was less issue when handholding because I had the lens braced with two hands and my head (and sometimes a tree). I'm considering a wireless remote but also thinking about ways to stabilize the lens on the tripod. I was thinking I might apply elastic tension to front and rear of the lens to the tripod. Maybe with rubber bands to provide, hopefully, less movement on the axis. Any thoughts?

[marcusBMG]

Well TBH woodrim it sounds like your tripod might be a bit loose/wobbly/rubbish.... it's a litmus test of a tripods rigidity, using a lens like this on it. Check everything is tightened up, don't extend any central column, and definitely use a remote shutter release or, failing that, the timer.

Alternatively, try a bean bag. I carry one all the time, in terms of stability and vibration damping it is the biz. But an issue is that when the focus is in contact with the bag, it's easy to nudge out of focus eg when pressing shutter release. I have equipped some of my long lenses with tripod mount points with long plates to avoid this.

Home made bean bag ~ 15cm wide, filling is industrial plastic granules from local factory.

[Lloydy]

I've got a bunch of tripods from lightweight Chinese things that are easy to carry and very good indeed, to heavy duty things like the old Slik Pro that extends to 7 feet high and I refer to as 'the scaffolding' and the Benbo Classic, No. 1 which could easily support me, and I'm no lightweight. I've got Gitzo, Linhoff, Uniloc, Sirui and Sony tripods, and heads of all types. And.........they ALL shake with a long lens.

Use the self timer or a remote, it's the only way.

I did a bit of a test a while back and placed a jar cap on top of the cameras ( with a compact 200mm lens ) stuck in place with some Blu Tack, then I put a tiny drop of water in the cap ( once it was on the tripod ) I then fired the camera and watched the ripples in the water, I fired each camera - the A6000, NEX5 & K10 mounted on different tripods, all fired on 10 second timer or wired remote, with different ball or pan & tilt heads and made notes. Not one combination fired without some ripples in the water. Although it has to said some were better than others, which is why I gave away a nice looking Velbon tripod to someone for video work because it was hopeless for still photography.
Even with mirror lock up on the K10 set on timer there was some ripples. The Sony's were slightly better having no mirror to clatter about. I got very good images even when I noted some slight ripples, I think the ripples test is above and beyond the call of duty to be honest. But it was a very interesting experiment, even if it was rough and ready and lacking in any kind of data.

But it did prove the benefit of using a remote or self timer. Even if I still remain confused about the exponential benefits - if any - of using a decent quality lightweight tripod ( Sirui ) or the gargantuan back breaker ( Benbo ) tripod that is utterly impractical to carry any distance. Sometimes, less is more.

[woodrim]

I have a Velbon and I did extend it with the central column which surely made it less stable. However, I think any lens and tripod combination will suffer when the lens is long and the focal length great. When portions of the lens and camera each extend out from the tripod connection, the fulcrum, it would be natural to have movement and the farther out, the more movement. I don't suspect it is possible to have a connection rigid enough to damper all movement. This is why I am thinking of ways to add stability if not rigidity. Wouldn't it help if both ends of the lens/camera were held taught by an elastic to the tripod center? Of course, I will try it when I get the time but had hoped that some folks here might have already experimented with ways of improving tripod mounted lens stability.

[tb_a]

Woodrim, for very nose heavy constructions or lenses I prefer to use this accessory from Manfrotto which enables a very stable operation:



Very recommendable.

Details can be seen here: https://www.manfrotto.com/telephoto-lens-support

[woodrim]

[marcusBMG]

Pics of a couple of my efforts here:

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/122-lens-clubs/55946-300mm-plus-lens-club-discuss-your-long-lenses-1296.html#post3499883

[woodrim]

[Lloydy]

I made a 'nearly universal' long lens support that works very well, but I haven't got a picture of it. I'll do it tomorrow.