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Gerald
Joined: 25 Mar 2014 Posts: 1196 Location: Brazil
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Posted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 12:07 am Post subject: |
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Gerald wrote:
stevemark wrote: |
They are prone to wear-and-tear, especially those primes that include zoom-like focusing threads (sorry, i don't know the proper term in English). |
Are you talking about single-helicoid focusing systems? _________________ If raindrops were perfect lenses, the rainbow did not exist. |
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Antoine
Joined: 08 Jan 2016 Posts: 298 Location: London
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Posted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 11:58 am Post subject: |
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Antoine wrote:
Gerald wrote: |
stevemark wrote: |
They are prone to wear-and-tear, especially those primes that include zoom-like focusing threads (sorry, i don't know the proper term in English). |
Are you talking about single-helicoid focusing systems? |
This is exactly what led me to build Minolta lens range. I did buy a Canon nFD 24mm f 2.8 (for about 50-60£) early on and found it mechanically so unsatisfactory (plasticky, some play), especially compared to the Minolta lenses I previously owned that, rightly or wrongly, I never looked back. A pity as it seems they are often optically equivalent or superior, offer more choice and usually cheaper. _________________ Antoine
Sony A6000 APS-C and Sony A7 Rii
Minolta Fisheye MD Rokkor 7.5 mm f4, Fisheye MD 16 f2.8 MD R 17mm f4, MD R 20mm f2.8, MC VFC & MDIII 24mm f2.8, MD 28mm f2.0 &3.5, MD II 35mm 1.8, MD 45mm f2.0, MD 50mm f 1.2 & MD I f1.4, MC PG 58mm 1.2, MD 85mm f2.0, MD R 85mm f2.8 Varisoft, MC 85mm f1.7 MD R 100mm f2.5, MD R 100mm f4.0 macro, MD III 135mm f2.8, MD R 200mm f2.8 & 4.0, RF 250mm f5.6, MD 300mm f4.5, MD APO 400 mm f5.6, RF 500mm f8.0, RF 800mm f8.0 *2 300-s and 300-l
100 mm f4 macro bellows (5/4)
Vivitar 17mm f3.5, Elicar 300mm mirror f5.6, Zhongi turbo ii
Sigma 16mm f 2.8 fish eye
Zooms:24-50 mm f4, 35-70 mm f3.5 macro, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5, 50-135 f 3.5, 70-210 f4 and MD APO 100-500 mm f8 |
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stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011 Posts: 3754 Location: Switzerland
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Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 11:06 am Post subject: |
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stevemark wrote:
Gerald wrote: |
stevemark wrote: |
They are prone to wear-and-tear, especially those primes that include zoom-like focusing threads (sorry, i don't know the proper term in English). |
Are you talking about single-helicoid focusing systems? |
Single helicoid "new FD" primes have just one problem - the internal (rotating) mechanism of the bayonet.
Primes with floating elements or primes with internal focusing have an additional (and more serious) problem:
their internal focusing mechanism contains sliding bearings (?? not shure whether this is the correct English term!).
These are coated with an unknown synthetic material which is prone to disintegration.
IMAGES FROM http://www.digicamclub.de/showthread.php?t=16843
It seems this (now defective) material was mainly used in the Canons high quality lenses, and not in the cheap MF zooms.
My oldest lens with such a problem is an (otherwise pristine) FD 2.8/300mm Fluorite.
Repairing is usually quite cumbersome, since one has to replace the defective bearings with new, specially made parts.
Stephan _________________ www.artaphot.ch |
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stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011 Posts: 3754 Location: Switzerland
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Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 11:17 am Post subject: |
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stevemark wrote:
Antoine wrote: |
Gerald wrote: |
stevemark wrote: |
They are prone to wear-and-tear, especially those primes that include zoom-like focusing threads (sorry, i don't know the proper term in English). |
Are you talking about single-helicoid focusing systems? |
This is exactly what led me to build Minolta lens range.
... |
Yep, that's why i have collected mainly Minolta MC and MD-I lenses. Their focusing is extremely smooth and silky. Obviously there's no play at all, and everything is made of metal. Most of these lenses have brass-on-aluminium focusing threads. The combination of brass and aluminium is ideal, but heavy (Leitz was using the same combination). Later Minolta changed to (lighter) alu-on-alu focusing threads, and they are quite a bit harder to use, especially if we have double focusing threads (MD 2.8/200mm) or floating focusing (MD 2.8/20mm, MD-III 2.8/24mm, MD-III 2/28mm). If we compare the ame generation of lenses, the Minoltas are usually as good as the corresponding Canon FD lenses. But, of course, Minolta didn't offer those precious special lenses that Canon had ...
Stephan _________________ www.artaphot.ch |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9097 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 8:14 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
stevemark wrote: |
Single helicoid "new FD" primes have just one problem - the internal (rotating) mechanism of the bayonet.
Primes with floating elements or primes with internal focusing have an additional (and more serious) problem:
their internal focusing mechanism contains sliding bearings (?? not shure whether this is the correct English term!).
These are coated with an unknown synthetic material which is prone to disintegration. |
A better term for these pieces would probably be "bushing" rather than bearing.
I have run across bushings such as these in a couple of Vivitar S1 lenses I've dismantled. But they used teflon rather than that black stuff. They held up well to the effects of wear.
If you had access to a micro lathe you could probably make some -- perhaps out of solid brass? Brass has self-lubricating properties. I dunno though -- those sharp angles may present a problem.
I have been told that Canon's IF lenses require special tools to work on the IF components. I was warned not to mess with the IF on mine because without these tools I'd never get things set right again. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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mackeral
Joined: 21 Oct 2012 Posts: 64 Location: United States
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Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 9:44 pm Post subject: |
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mackeral wrote:
I buy and sell quite a lot of gear, but the 55mm 1.2 Asph with the Speedbooster Ultra combo will always be a part of my kit. That lens is pure magic on my Fuji cameras. |
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Gerald
Joined: 25 Mar 2014 Posts: 1196 Location: Brazil
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Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 9:45 pm Post subject: |
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Gerald wrote:
cooltouch wrote: |
stevemark wrote: |
Single helicoid "new FD" primes have just one problem - the internal (rotating) mechanism of the bayonet.
Primes with floating elements or primes with internal focusing have an additional (and more serious) problem:
their internal focusing mechanism contains sliding bearings (?? not shure whether this is the correct English term!).
These are coated with an unknown synthetic material which is prone to disintegration. |
A better term for these pieces would probably be "bushing" rather than bearing.
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I think a very common denomination is guide roller. In professional lenses, these rollers were made of brass. In consumer lenses, it was common to use a material called Delrin. Then Canon decided to innovate ... In the 1990s, many of those "revolutionary" rubber compounds turned out to be a disaster. Canon had two prosumer camcorder, L1 and L2, whose handles were coated with a rubbery layer that turned a glue after a few years. And the infamous Sigma's Zen coating is cursed to this day. _________________ If raindrops were perfect lenses, the rainbow did not exist. |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5019 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 6:03 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
Gerald wrote: |
Then Canon decided to innovate ... In the 1990s, many of those "revolutionary" rubber compounds turned out to be a disaster. Canon had two prosumer camcorder, L1 and L2, whose handles were coated with a rubbery layer that turned a glue after a few years. And the infamous Sigma's Zen coating is cursed to this day. |
Probably the same stuff used on some Nikon cameras e.g. Nikon F90X _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011 Posts: 3754 Location: Switzerland
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Posted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 6:52 pm Post subject: |
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stevemark wrote:
Gerald wrote: |
cooltouch wrote: |
A better term for these pieces would probably be "bushing" rather than bearing.
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I think a very common denomination is guide roller. |
Thanks for correcting me!!
In fact, Teflon would have been quite OK - Canons cheaper zooms from that time seem to use Teflon, and they don't have these problems.
Teflon can be a problem if very tight tolerances are to be met. I know that Minolta Switzerland did offer a service to change the Teflon guide rollers of the Minolta AF 1.4/85mm to brass ones, on request, and for a substantial amount of money ...
Stephan _________________ www.artaphot.ch |
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