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Teemō
Joined: 07 Apr 2016
Posts: 586
Location: Australia
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 Posted: Thu May 12, 2016 8:56 am Post subject: Best camera for Minolta glass? |
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Teemō wrote:
So I currently have some of the higher-quality Minolta lenses but my main gear is m43 which is quite unsuitable due to the extreme pixel density. So now I'm looking to buy a digital camera to use the following: 58/1.4, 135/2.8 and 100/2. Immediately I think the original Sony A7 (24MP) is best but maybe I misunderstand. Is there any reason why I might not want to buy an original A7? Perhaps the other models are much better in some regard? Can these old lenses handle 36MP well or should I stay to 24?
I was also thinking that an APS-C (thinking Fuji X) with speedbooster would be cheaper but I could only afford the Zhongyi Lens Turbo, which is slightly inferior to the Metabones. I think 16MP APS-C is roughly equivalent to 36MP on FF, but with that, and then the use of a glass adapter the combination is no doubt inferior to a FF and glassless adapter.
Sony A7's are selling for around US$600-800 whereas a Fuji X-Pro 1 is about US$400+. Obviously Fuji is using X-Trans as well which I have no experience with. |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009
Posts: 10543
Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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| Posted: Thu May 12, 2016 5:00 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Differences between lenses is certainly easier to see using a higher megapixel full frame sensor.  Viewing 100% magnifications or making very large prints...
I recommend buying the best camera you can afford rather than trying to limit the camera technology (and therefore price) to the capabilities of old lenses, which is less than the capability of newer lenses which you may want to use later.
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Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51BB), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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TrueLoveOne
Joined: 30 Sep 2012
Posts: 1840
Location: Netherlands
Expire: 2013-12-24
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| Posted: Fri May 13, 2016 6:07 am Post subject: |
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TrueLoveOne wrote:
I have been shooting Minolta glass on film as well as on Sony APS-C Nex cams. When shooting digital the fact that the sensor was smaller than a film frame always annoyed me in some way.
At some point i bought a new A7, body only, and i must say: best investment in photo gear since long! I am really very happy with it!
For me there was (and still is) no reason to buy a more expensive A7 model, the standard version is enough for my needs. A stabilised sensor is a nice feature, but my film bodies don't have such novelties as well so i don't feel like i miss it.
On some of my Canon L glass for the 5D i have IS, but that is off most of the time as well...... i rarely switch it on.
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My Flickr photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/chantalrene/
Sony A7, Canon 5D mkII, Minolta 7D + RD3000 and some more.....
Minolta and Konica collector.... slowly selling all the other stuff! |
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Teemō
Joined: 07 Apr 2016
Posts: 586
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Sun May 15, 2016 12:43 pm Post subject: |
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Teemō wrote:
| visualopsins wrote: |
Differences between lenses is certainly easier to see using a higher megapixel full frame sensor. Viewing 100% magnifications or making very large prints...
I recommend buying the best camera you can afford rather than trying to limit the camera technology (and therefore price) to the capabilities of old lenses, which is less than the capability of newer lenses which you may want to use later. |
That's usually how it goes, so I think it's perhaps best to wait a while. It's certainly not urgent and I'm just enjoying my renaissance with film at the moment. Have only been using the 50mm really, anyway, although I swore I wouldn't invest in a wide angle but right now I want one!
Unfortunately I've also just spoiled myself with 2 rangefinders! |
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Teemō
Joined: 07 Apr 2016
Posts: 586
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Sun May 15, 2016 12:46 pm Post subject: |
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Teemō wrote:
| TrueLoveOne wrote: |
I have been shooting Minolta glass on film as well as on Sony APS-C Nex cams. When shooting digital the fact that the sensor was smaller than a film frame always annoyed me in some way.
At some point i bought a new A7, body only, and i must say: best investment in photo gear since long! I am really very happy with it!
For me there was (and still is) no reason to buy a more expensive A7 model, the standard version is enough for my needs. A stabilised sensor is a nice feature, but my film bodies don't have such novelties as well so i don't feel like i miss it.
On some of my Canon L glass for the 5D i have IS, but that is off most of the time as well...... i rarely switch it on. |
I would really love IBIS but that's only based on my experience using the lenses on m43 so naturally the focal length is doubled and they all become telephotos... The perfect compromise would be 24MP with IBIS but I guess it's not going to happen unless Olympus or Fujifilm suddenly come out with a FF camera in the future. Anyway, thanks for the comment. I'll have to do some thinking and saving... |
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