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vivaldibow
Joined: 23 Jun 2018 Posts: 835
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Wed Mar 13, 2019 5:58 am Post subject: Topcor 3,5cm 1:2.8 flowers etc |
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vivaldibow wrote:
The short MFD is really a plus. Close shots performance is really good.
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vivaldibow
Joined: 23 Jun 2018 Posts: 835
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Wed Mar 13, 2019 6:07 am Post subject: |
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vivaldibow wrote:
But at regular distance, my particular copy shows some weird things.
The flowers in the left pot are very fuzzy.
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The right headlight is also fuzzy.
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What could be the reasons? I don't think they are just oof or because of out of dof area. |
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y
Joined: 11 Aug 2013 Posts: 304 Location: EU
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Posted: Wed Mar 13, 2019 8:15 am Post subject: |
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y wrote:
vivaldibow wrote: |
But at regular distance, my particular copy shows some weird things.
What could be the reasons? I don't think they are just oof or because of out of dof area. |
Since it's always the left side I would say it's a case of severe decentering.
You can perform a test - you take a pic in a regular way and then rotate your camera upside down and take the same picture again. Then you rotate the second shot and compare both fotos. If the "glow/weirdness/blurriness" migrates from one corner to another it's a case of decentering.
Is the adapter OK? Does it work fine with other Exa/Topcor lenses?
Is the lens OK? Does it "tick" when you shake it? Is a glass element visibly loose? Does the lens look like it was dropped (dents, bents, etc.)? |
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Oldhand
Joined: 01 Apr 2013 Posts: 6006 Location: Mid North Coast NSW - Australia
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Posted: Wed Mar 13, 2019 8:57 am Post subject: |
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Oldhand wrote:
Interestingly, my copy seems to perform best at close range and more poorly at distance.
Nicely made and a pleasure to use, but with limitations for me.
Tom |
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vivaldibow
Joined: 23 Jun 2018 Posts: 835
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Thu Mar 14, 2019 4:45 am Post subject: |
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vivaldibow wrote:
y wrote: |
vivaldibow wrote: |
But at regular distance, my particular copy shows some weird things.
What could be the reasons? I don't think they are just oof or because of out of dof area. |
Since it's always the left side I would say it's a case of severe decentering.
You can perform a test - you take a pic in a regular way and then rotate your camera upside down and take the same picture again. Then you rotate the second shot and compare both fotos. If the "glow/weirdness/blurriness" migrates from one corner to another it's a case of decentering.
Is the adapter OK? Does it work fine with other Exa/Topcor lenses?
Is the lens OK? Does it "tick" when you shake it? Is a glass element visibly loose? Does the lens look like it was dropped (dents, bents, etc.)? |
Thank you very much for the detailed information. I ran the test. Windows 10 automatically rotates the picture for me. It seems I saw what you described: the glow area migrates to the upper right corner. In addition, there is a very small dent at the lens rear, at the silver part adjacent to the aperture ring, between f11 and f16. So most likely the lens is decentered. When I hold the little tab at the bottom (otherwise it would make noise) and shake the lens, I feel there is only some rattle, probably sounding like from bearing. If you ever own a Kiron lens, it sounds similar. I had a Soligor having a loosen front element and that sounds different. I searched on the internet and found an optical bench is needed. That seems not an easy fix. Do you have any other recommendation on how this might be fixed?
Additionally, I found the aperture ring doesn't have distinct click at each f number; rather, it behaves much like a preset lens. Is this normal?
Many thanks! |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10463 Location: California
Expire: 2021-06-22
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Posted: Thu Mar 14, 2019 5:13 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Which camera is it again please? _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony A7Rii, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Lenses:
Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200
Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300
Macro-Takumar 1:4/50
Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm
Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element),
Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17
Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500
Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100
Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100
SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
Other lenses:
Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51BB), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto
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Oldhand
Joined: 01 Apr 2013 Posts: 6006 Location: Mid North Coast NSW - Australia
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Posted: Thu Mar 14, 2019 5:28 am Post subject: |
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Oldhand wrote:
[quote="vivaldibow"][quote="y"]
vivaldibow wrote: |
Additionally, I found the aperture ring doesn't have distinct click at each f number; rather, it behaves much like a preset lens. Is this normal?
Many thanks! |
My copy has definite click stops and click half stops between.
So maybe your lens has had some work done at some stage.
Tom |
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Lightshow
Joined: 04 Nov 2011 Posts: 3669 Location: Calgary
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Posted: Thu Mar 14, 2019 6:19 am Post subject: |
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Lightshow wrote:
vivaldibow wrote: |
y wrote: |
vivaldibow wrote: |
But at regular distance, my particular copy shows some weird things.
What could be the reasons? I don't think they are just oof or because of out of dof area. |
Since it's always the left side I would say it's a case of severe decentering.
You can perform a test - you take a pic in a regular way and then rotate your camera upside down and take the same picture again. Then you rotate the second shot and compare both fotos. If the "glow/weirdness/blurriness" migrates from one corner to another it's a case of decentering.
Is the adapter OK? Does it work fine with other Exa/Topcor lenses?
Is the lens OK? Does it "tick" when you shake it? Is a glass element visibly loose? Does the lens look like it was dropped (dents, bents, etc.)? |
Thank you very much for the detailed information. I ran the test. Windows 10 automatically rotates the picture for me. It seems I saw what you described: the glow area migrates to the upper right corner. In addition, there is a very small dent at the lens rear, at the silver part adjacent to the aperture ring, between f11 and f16. So most likely the lens is decentered. When I hold the little tab at the bottom (otherwise it would make noise) and shake the lens, I feel there is only some rattle, probably sounding like from bearing. |
It's probably the ball bearings for the aperture, you can hear them click as you slowly rotate the lens on it's axis.
He was referring to shaking the lens forwards and back along it's axis, you will hear clicking from a loose element, I experienced this with an OM 35/2 that had a loose front element that was giving me incontinent results, I thought it was me till I heard the clicking as I stopped and started the lens movement along it's axis. Not hearing it click doesn't mean the elements are seated correctly, it's possible there is some contaminant between the element and it's mounting surface, just thick enough to soften one side.
Most lenses I've worked on the elements fit like a glove into their resting place, a machined fit.
Quote: |
If you ever own a Kiron lens, it sounds similar. I had a Soligor having a loosen front element and that sounds different. I searched on the internet and found an optical bench is needed. That seems not an easy fix. Do you have any other recommendation on how this might be fixed? |
If an element isn't sitting properly, a disassembly and reassembly might cure the softness.
Quote: |
Additionally, I found the aperture ring doesn't have distinct click at each f number; rather, it behaves much like a preset lens. Is this normal? |
Nope, someone has been in there, there should definitely be detents every half stop.
_________________ A Manual Focus Junky...
One photographers junk lens is an artists favorite tool.
My lens list
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lightshow-photography/
Last edited by Lightshow on Thu Mar 14, 2019 6:31 am; edited 1 time in total |
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y
Joined: 11 Aug 2013 Posts: 304 Location: EU
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Posted: Thu Mar 14, 2019 6:25 am Post subject: |
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y wrote:
vivaldibow wrote: |
Thank you very much for the detailed information. I ran the test. Windows 10 automatically rotates the picture for me. It seems I saw what you described: the glow area migrates to the upper right corner. In addition, there is a very small dent at the lens rear, at the silver part adjacent to the aperture ring, between f11 and f16. So most likely the lens is decentered. When I hold the little tab at the bottom (otherwise it would make noise) and shake the lens, I feel there is only some rattle, probably sounding like from bearing. If you ever own a Kiron lens, it sounds similar. I had a Soligor having a loosen front element and that sounds different. I searched on the internet and found an optical bench is needed. That seems not an easy fix. Do you have any other recommendation on how this might be fixed?
Additionally, I found the aperture ring doesn't have distinct click at each f number; rather, it behaves much like a preset lens. Is this normal?
Many thanks! |
Sad to hear it is decentered. Loosen glass elements give a specific "clicky/ticky" sound. But it might be stuck in a wrong position as well.
Topcor RE lenses can be easily delicked (no click when chaning f number) - right under the bottom plate there is a spring-like stripe of metal which pushes a ball bearing against small pits. However, there is also a chance somebody opened the lens in order to fix it and lost the ball unintentionally... |
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Lightshow
Joined: 04 Nov 2011 Posts: 3669 Location: Calgary
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Posted: Thu Mar 14, 2019 7:58 am Post subject: |
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Lightshow wrote:
This looks quit good for near infinity.
St Pauls in afternoon by White_Dragon_09, on Flickr
Even does decent soap bubbles:
Gold rules the world (even in winter) by rik janssen, on Flickr _________________ A Manual Focus Junky...
One photographers junk lens is an artists favorite tool.
My lens list
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lightshow-photography/ |
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vivaldibow
Joined: 23 Jun 2018 Posts: 835
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 5:07 am Post subject: |
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vivaldibow wrote:
Thanks a lot. I double-check the lens and all the screws. It looks like it's not been opened before. I "suspect" it was bumped/dropped from the little dent, which caused the decenter.
I removed the front sustaining ring and the front element is in a group and can't be simply removed from the top like some other Japanese made lenses. I also removed the rear sustaining ring and was able to remove the rear element(s). I've yet tested it.
Lightshow wrote: |
vivaldibow wrote: |
y wrote: |
vivaldibow wrote: |
But at regular distance, my particular copy shows some weird things.
What could be the reasons? I don't think they are just oof or because of out of dof area. |
Since it's always the left side I would say it's a case of severe decentering.
You can perform a test - you take a pic in a regular way and then rotate your camera upside down and take the same picture again. Then you rotate the second shot and compare both fotos. If the "glow/weirdness/blurriness" migrates from one corner to another it's a case of decentering.
Is the adapter OK? Does it work fine with other Exa/Topcor lenses?
Is the lens OK? Does it "tick" when you shake it? Is a glass element visibly loose? Does the lens look like it was dropped (dents, bents, etc.)? |
Thank you very much for the detailed information. I ran the test. Windows 10 automatically rotates the picture for me. It seems I saw what you described: the glow area migrates to the upper right corner. In addition, there is a very small dent at the lens rear, at the silver part adjacent to the aperture ring, between f11 and f16. So most likely the lens is decentered. When I hold the little tab at the bottom (otherwise it would make noise) and shake the lens, I feel there is only some rattle, probably sounding like from bearing. |
It's probably the ball bearings for the aperture, you can hear them click as you slowly rotate the lens on it's axis.
He was referring to shaking the lens forwards and back along it's axis, you will hear clicking from a loose element, I experienced this with an OM 35/2 that had a loose front element that was giving me incontinent results, I thought it was me till I heard the clicking as I stopped and started the lens movement along it's axis. Not hearing it click doesn't mean the elements are seated correctly, it's possible there is some contaminant between the element and it's mounting surface, just thick enough to soften one side.
Most lenses I've worked on the elements fit like a glove into their resting place, a machined fit.
Quote: |
If you ever own a Kiron lens, it sounds similar. I had a Soligor having a loosen front element and that sounds different. I searched on the internet and found an optical bench is needed. That seems not an easy fix. Do you have any other recommendation on how this might be fixed? |
If an element isn't sitting properly, a disassembly and reassembly might cure the softness.
Quote: |
Additionally, I found the aperture ring doesn't have distinct click at each f number; rather, it behaves much like a preset lens. Is this normal? |
Nope, someone has been in there, there should definitely be detents every half stop.
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vivaldibow
Joined: 23 Jun 2018 Posts: 835
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 5:12 am Post subject: |
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vivaldibow wrote:
What I don't quite understand is the blurry area doesn't always appear. Some photos are fine and some are not.
[/quote]Sad to hear it is decentered. Loosen glass elements give a specific "clicky/ticky" sound. But it might be stuck in a wrong position as well.
Topcor RE lenses can be easily delicked (no click when chaning f number) - right under the bottom plate there is a spring-like stripe of metal which pushes a ball bearing against small pits. However, there is also a chance somebody opened the lens in order to fix it and lost the ball unintentionally...[/quote] |
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Sciolist
Joined: 29 Mar 2017 Posts: 1445 Location: Scotland
Expire: 2021-04-16
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Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 8:05 am Post subject: |
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Sciolist wrote:
vivaldibow wrote: |
What I don't quite understand is the blurry area doesn't always appear. Some photos are fine and some are not.
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Are you using larger f stop numbers when the blurriness disappears? |
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frenched
Joined: 16 Feb 2013 Posts: 394 Location: MD USA
Expire: 2014-06-17
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Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 9:51 pm Post subject: |
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frenched wrote:
Sciolist wrote: |
vivaldibow wrote: |
What I don't quite understand is the blurry area doesn't always appear. Some photos are fine and some are not.
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Are you using larger f stop numbers when the blurriness disappears? |
+1
The flower images show consistent OOF areas, so I don't think it's a physical problem with the glass. Focus issue maybe? Try adjusting the diopter on the viewfinder. Or the chip on your adapter may need to be calibrated for focus distance. _________________ "Lenses are to be looked through, not looked at."
--Carl Zess Technical Support
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Blazer0ne
Joined: 12 Sep 2018 Posts: 836
Expire: 2024-12-07
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Posted: Wed May 01, 2019 4:52 pm Post subject: |
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Blazer0ne wrote:
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