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!Karen
Joined: 20 Jul 2013
Posts: 837
Location: Belgium Baby
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 Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 4:11 pm Post subject: Helios 44-2 on Nikon D800 |
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!Karen wrote:
My M42 - nikon adapter finally arrived.
I wanted to see that swirly effect on fullframe but no such luck today because of very flat light.
IMO this camera in combination with MF lenses is not userfriendly at all. Found it VERY hard to focus without peaking, and URGH no flippy screen.
Both at f2. DOF is tiny!
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tomasg
Joined: 01 Nov 2009
Posts: 1135
Expire: 2014-04-28
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| Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 5:21 pm Post subject: |
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tomasg wrote:
It takes time and practice to focus manually on a Nikon body (i have a D700), but it can be done, more effort than with a mirrorless for sure. Also, to get the swirls it takes the right combination of object to background distance (i have a Biotar 58/2 amongst other) and the right type of background, tree foliage for example. more than the right light. |
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!Karen
Joined: 20 Jul 2013
Posts: 837
Location: Belgium Baby
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| Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 5:51 pm Post subject: |
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!Karen wrote:
second one is tree foliage, if the sun had shined on it or through it, I would have gotten my swirls. But it was cloudy and dark so I didn't have my needed reflections or light points. Our christmas tree is going up tomorrow, I am going to try that as a background ^_^
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miran
Joined: 01 Aug 2012
Posts: 1364
Location: Slovenia
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| Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 7:16 pm Post subject: |
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miran wrote:
I think the ratio between subject and background distance isn't right for swirls. Around 3m subject distance (about 3/4 portrait) and 10-15m background distance, give or take, should give nice swirly bokeh. Light shouldn't matter that much. Mostly I think your subject is too small so you shot it from way too close.
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!Karen
Joined: 20 Jul 2013
Posts: 837
Location: Belgium Baby
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| Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 7:43 pm Post subject: |
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!Karen wrote:
Got it
Will try again
i am scared the back of the lens and my mirror will touch. I need to find in the menu where I can change the live view settings. Now the live view switches off after a small amount of time and the mirror comes down again.
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tomasg
Joined: 01 Nov 2009
Posts: 1135
Expire: 2014-04-28
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| Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2015 7:12 am Post subject: |
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tomasg wrote:
Yes it s a lens that you have to "learn", some examples from me can be seen here:
http://www.pbase.com/tomasg_71/czj_biotar_582
and then there s the Helios 40:
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JJB
Joined: 02 Oct 2014
Posts: 424
Location: USA
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| Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2015 2:39 pm Post subject: |
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JJB wrote:
^ tomasg - thank you very much for those hints. I have not used my Helios 44-2 that much and this gives me some information about how to use it to its best advantage. Handsome young man you have there!
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Nikon D80 with 18/55 kit lens
Fujifilm XE-1 with 18/55 kit lens
Lenses:
Konica Hexanon: 28/3.5, 50/1.7 (EE), 55/3.5 macro, 135/3.2 28-135/4-4.5, 80-200/4
Mamiya Sekor SX 28/2.8, 50/2, 55/1.4, 135/2.8
Minolta: 50/1.7, 35-70/3.5, 35-105/3.5-4.5
Olympus Zuiko: 28/3.5, 50/1.8, 85/2
Rikenon: 55/1.4
Soligor: 135s made by Tamron, Komura, Tokina
Takumar/Asahi/Pentax: Pentax M 35/2.8, SMC Takumar 35/3.5, 50/1.7 (Pentax) 55/1.8 (Super Tak), 105/2.8, 200/4
Tokina 60-300, 4-5.6
Tamron: 103A 80-210/3.8-4, 46A 70-210/3.8-4, 300/5.6 (Vernon Edonar)
Vivitar: 28/2.5, S1 28-90/2.8 (Komine), S1 70-210/3.5 (Kiron)
Yashica: ML 28/2.8, 50/2
Yashinon: 50/1.4
German: Meyer Gorlitz Oreston 50/1.8, CZJ Tessar 50/2.8, Isco Gottingen 135/3.5, Schneider-Kreuzach 200/5.5
Soviet: Helios 44/2, Helios 44/4, Industar 50/3.5 (both silver and black) |
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tomasg
Joined: 01 Nov 2009
Posts: 1135
Expire: 2014-04-28
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| Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2015 6:58 pm Post subject: |
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tomasg wrote:
| JJB wrote: |
| ^ tomasg - thank you very much for those hints. I have not used my Helios 44-2 that much and this gives me some information about how to use it to its best advantage. Handsome young man you have there! |
You re welcome and thanx! Yes this would be a typical scenario for me using this lens, just experiment a bit with different distances. |
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