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Pontus
Joined: 18 Dec 2011 Posts: 1471 Location: Jakobstad, Finland
Expire: 2016-08-25
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Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 7:47 pm Post subject: How do you use in body stabilization with zooms? |
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Pontus wrote:
Let's say that you have a Contax 100-300 which you wish to use on a Sony A7Rii. The focal length setting for the stabilization gets a bit problematic. How do you handle it? _________________ Follow this link for my FOR SALE list (partially updated 19.11.2015) |
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aoleg
Joined: 22 Feb 2008 Posts: 1389 Location: Berlin, DE
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Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 8:38 pm Post subject: |
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aoleg wrote:
The safest way is just using the shortest focal length when mounting the lens. Performance of the stabilizer will suffer at the longest focal length, but you won't get extra blur because of OIS overshooting. However, if you tend to mostly use the lens at the long end, it may be worth it to enter your most frequently used focal length to be stabilized. Me, I always enter the shortest focal length and forget it. _________________ List of lenses |
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6627 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 8:38 pm Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
I have Pentax, but its the same problem.
Short answers -
- Don't use IS with zooms
- Set focal length to the longest zoom FL in IS, and shoot at max FL. That's what I almost always do anyway.
Trust the IS not to screw up too bad at slightly shorter FL if you have to zoom out for framing.
- Avoid low light at shorter FL. _________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
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fwcetus
Joined: 12 Jun 2015 Posts: 303 Location: New England
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Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 10:16 pm Post subject: |
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fwcetus wrote:
I shoot K-mount lenses (including a few zooms) with Pentax DSLRs (and all of the current and recent models have built-in "SR", for "shake reduction", as Pentax calls it).
With most older zooms (A series or older), where the body doesn't know the actual FL is (knowing only what is entered by the user at boot up), I usually set the FL for mid-zoom-range. [I figure that I will get at least partial compensation at the long end, and only partial over-compensation at the short end -- YMMV.]
Of course, if I know in advance that I am going to use a zoom at, say, only the long end, then I can set or reset the entered FL to match.
However, with newer zooms (DISCLAIMER -- these are often AF lenses, but I do use them sometimes as MF lenses, so I hope this is not considered flagrantly off-topic here - LOL), where the body instantaneously knows the FL, even as one zooms, there is no need for any user input, since the level of "SR" compensation will be set and reset as needed. _________________ Fred
If you saw a fellow drowning, and you could either save him or photograph the event . . . What lens would you use ? |
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meanwhile
Joined: 29 May 2014 Posts: 225 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-11-28
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Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 10:54 pm Post subject: |
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meanwhile wrote:
I find the hardest part not what to set it to, but remembering to change it! _________________ In my bag: Sony A7II - Olympus OM 21mm f/3.5 - Minolta M-Rokkor 40mm f/2.0 - Konica Hexanon 57mm f/1.2 AR - Olympus Zuiko OM 100mm f/2.8 - Pentax 135mm f/3.5 |
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Pontus
Joined: 18 Dec 2011 Posts: 1471 Location: Jakobstad, Finland
Expire: 2016-08-25
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Posted: Sat Oct 24, 2015 7:03 am Post subject: |
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Pontus wrote:
Thanks for the suggestions guys! It is funny though that almost every possible way has been recommended _________________ Follow this link for my FOR SALE list (partially updated 19.11.2015) |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10546 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sat Oct 24, 2015 7:21 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Well, you want the shake reduced most at the highest magnification, which should be at maximum focal length and minimum focal distance. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51BB), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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Ultrapix
Joined: 06 Jan 2012 Posts: 551 Location: Italy
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Posted: Sat Oct 24, 2015 7:39 am Post subject: |
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Ultrapix wrote:
aoleg wrote: |
The safest way is just using the shortest focal length when mounting the lens. Performance of the stabilizer will suffer at the longest focal length, but you won't get extra blur because of OIS overshooting. However, if you tend to mostly use the lens at the long end, it may be worth it to enter your most frequently used focal length to be stabilized. Me, I always enter the shortest focal length and forget it. |
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