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papasito
Joined: 09 Jan 2015 Posts: 1658
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Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 11:31 am Post subject: Mamiya 1,8/55 and 2/50 |
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papasito wrote:
From the TL series lenses, with chrome nose, mamiya (like the other brands) made (by themselves?) three normals lenses in M42
The 1,4 (55 mm). It should be made in two optical formulas. The second since "made in japan" version.
I read in some places that the first version was made by tomioka and the second should be a copy of the german Zeiss contarexes 55/1,4 lens, yes, the same lens made time later for the rolleiflex cameras, known as rolleinar 55/1,4.
The 1,7 (55 mm)
The first version was 6/4 schame and was made in the chrome nose time (TL lenses)
The second version, 6/5 with separate 3 front elements, should be made for the all black versions (DTL and SX cameras lenses)
But I found DTL version with 6/4 schame (known for the 5 reflections front elements).
The SX 55/1,7 had an excellent fame, especially in the center of the image at F/5,6-8 (the numbers of the tests seem very difficult to beat, f.e. 96 lines/mm)
After that, the 55 mm lens was made in 6/5 schame but with 50 mm FL, no more 55 mm.
The 2/50 was made without changes from the TL to the rolleinar 2/50 mm lenses.
Anybody had experience with the both 1,8/55 and the 2/50?
Rendering differences among them?
Thanks.
Horacio. |
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leonAzul
Joined: 12 Mar 2014 Posts: 17
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Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 4:35 pm Post subject: |
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leonAzul wrote:
From owning several Z-series and DTL-series bodies, I have accumulated a number of copies of the 50/2.0 lens in several mounts. They are all nearly identical, which says something for their consistency. I would describe them as excellent "kit lenses", so if you happen to acquire one, please enjoy it for what it is, but I wouldn't go out of my way to buy one.
The 50/2.0s have above average resolution well into the corners, and they render very neutrally with regard to distortion, contrast, and color. They are so neutral, I could well understand how someone might find them boring and characterless. On their native mounts, they are very forgiving and easy to focus. In short, a gateway lens.
Where they fail miserably is with chromatic aberrations and coma. Taking snapshots and simple compositions, they are aces, just as a good kit lens ought to be. Any attempt to use more extreme selective focus is immediately punished with the most nauseating red-green fringeing I have had the displeasure to see. The blur is like devil-spawn anti-bokeh. It's truly nasty, rendering solid and distinct edges where a smooth blur would be more desirable.
Among the so-called normal lenses that Mamiya produced for the 135 format, the 50/1.7 is the real sleeper, IMHO. It has all the sharpness of its brethren, and it is very well corrected for aberrations. To the best of my knowledge, however, it was only produced for the ZE mount, that is to say for the E and EF lens series, which makes it difficult, but not impossible, to adapt to contemporary cameras. |
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WNG555
Joined: 18 Dec 2014 Posts: 784 Location: Arrid-Zone-A, USA
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Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 10:46 am Post subject: |
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WNG555 wrote:
I had acquired a 55mm f1.8 Auto that came off a DTL 1000.
I found it to be an excellent lens. Very nice bokeh, very good resolution. But I think the Super Takumar 55 f1.8 edges pass it.
Also have an Auto 50mm f/2, unknown vintage as I bought it alone.
It's resolution and color are also excellent, the 1.8 is a bit sharper. I don't remember being nauseated by horrible bokeh, but I haven't tried it for bokeh goaled shots.
I have sample shots from each in albums in my flickr. _________________ "The eyes are useless when the mind is blind."
Sony ILCE-6000, SELP1650, SEL1855, SEL55210, SEL5018. Sigma 19/30/60mm f2.8 EX DN Art.
Rokinon 8mm f3.5 Fish-Eye, 14mm f2.8 IF ED UMC. Samyang 12mm f2.8 ED AS NCS Fish-Eye.
And a bunch of Manual-Focus Lenses
My Flickr
Last edited by WNG555 on Tue Jun 16, 2015 8:38 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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TrueLoveOne
Joined: 30 Sep 2012 Posts: 1840 Location: Netherlands
Expire: 2013-12-24
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Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 12:18 pm Post subject: |
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TrueLoveOne wrote:
Mine (2.0/50) came from a DTL1000 body, didn't use it a lot yet, just played around with it one evening, wide open shot:
Mamiya bokeh! by René Maly, on Flickr _________________ My Flickr photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/chantalrene/
Sony A7, Canon 5D mkII, Minolta 7D + RD3000 and some more.....
Minolta and Konica collector.... slowly selling all the other stuff! |
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papasito
Joined: 09 Jan 2015 Posts: 1658
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Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 8:36 pm Post subject: |
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papasito wrote:
WNG555 wrote: |
I had acquired a 55mm f1.8 Auto that came off a body, but don't recall which one. I think it was TL but will need to dig it up later.
I found it to be an excellent lens. Very nice bokeh, very good resolution. But I think the Super Takumar 55 f1.8 edges pass it.
Also have an Auto 50mm f/2, unknown vintage as I bought it alone.
It's resolution and color are also excellent, the 1.8 is a bit sharper. I don't remember being nauseated by horrible bokeh, but I haven't tried it for bokeh goaled shots.
I have sample shots from each in albums in my flickr. |
Hello
About the tak and the mamiya 1,8/55.
You think that the Tak pass the mamiya at edges.
I think the same.
But at the center, do you know which make the goal?
Almost the same about the mamiya lenses 2/50 and 1,8/55.
You said that the 1,8 is a bit sharper.
Do you think it about the center of the images?
Thank you, very much.
Horacio |
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WNG555
Joined: 18 Dec 2014 Posts: 784 Location: Arrid-Zone-A, USA
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Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 9:23 pm Post subject: |
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WNG555 wrote:
I took a look and the 55 f1.8 came from a DTL.
Wide open at f1.8, it's very close between the S. Takumar and Mamiya Auto. But my eyes find the Pentax to produce a more pleasing and clearer center in my photos. Stopping them down and the choice is difficult, they are so similar. This is comparing them when close shooting, but I am more a landscape shooter. And this is where I prefer the Takumar. and makes it superior overall.
I didn't purposely compare the two Mamiyas against each other. Since there is a slight difference in focal length.
The f/2 is a very good lens in my opinion, but how it looks comparing centers, its f/2 performance is matched by the 55 at f/1.8, and stopping both down, they get sharper but one seems a step better.
In the end, on my APS-C, there will be a point both are indistinguishable shooting the same subject. _________________ "The eyes are useless when the mind is blind."
Sony ILCE-6000, SELP1650, SEL1855, SEL55210, SEL5018. Sigma 19/30/60mm f2.8 EX DN Art.
Rokinon 8mm f3.5 Fish-Eye, 14mm f2.8 IF ED UMC. Samyang 12mm f2.8 ED AS NCS Fish-Eye.
And a bunch of Manual-Focus Lenses
My Flickr |
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Oldhand
Joined: 01 Apr 2013 Posts: 6009 Location: Mid North Coast NSW - Australia
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Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2015 2:38 am Post subject: |
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Oldhand wrote:
I don't think that there will much difference in rendering between these two lenses - opinion of course as I don't have both of them.
What I do have are Mamiya 55/1.8, 55/1.4 and Super-Takumar 55/1.8.
Since it is wet outside and I can't get to my workshop at the moment I decided to try a simple little comparison.
Here are the three lenses with the same shot.
The 1.8's are wide open and the 1.4 is set at f2
Mamiya 55/1.8
Mamiya 55/1.4 set @ f2
Super-Takumar 55/1.8
I might have not always achieved the same focus point in each image, but I think you will get the idea.
Not much difference is there.
OH |
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papasito
Joined: 09 Jan 2015 Posts: 1658
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Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2015 9:56 pm Post subject: |
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papasito wrote:
WNG555 wrote: |
I took a look and the 55 f1.8 came from a DTL.
Wide open at f1.8, it's very close between the S. Takumar and Mamiya Auto. But my eyes find the Pentax to produce a more pleasing and clearer center in my photos. Stopping them down and the choice is difficult, they are so similar. This is comparing them when close shooting, but I am more a landscape shooter. And this is where I prefer the Takumar. and makes it superior overall.
I didn't purposely compare the two Mamiyas against each other. Since there is a slight difference in focal length.
The f/2 is a very good lens in my opinion, but how it looks comparing centers, its f/2 performance is matched by the 55 at f/1.8, and stopping both down, they get sharper but one seems a step better.
In the end, on my APS-C, there will be a point both are indistinguishable shooting the same subject. |
Thank you, WNG555. |
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papasito
Joined: 09 Jan 2015 Posts: 1658
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Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2015 9:58 pm Post subject: |
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papasito wrote:
Oldhand wrote: |
I don't think that there will much difference in rendering between these two lenses - opinion of course as I don't have both of them.
What I do have are Mamiya 55/1.8, 55/1.4 and Super-Takumar 55/1.8.
Since it is wet outside and I can't get to my workshop at the moment I decided to try a simple little comparison.
Here are the three lenses with the same shot.
The 1.8's are wide open and the 1.4 is set at f2
Mamiya 55/1.8
Mamiya 55/1.4 set @ f2
Super-Takumar 55/1.8
I might have not always achieved the same focus point in each image, but I think you will get the idea.
Not much difference is there.
OH |
Thank you, OH.
If the images speak, they seem to say: go for the old takumar!!!
Perhaps the SMC version should be better for the newer coating.
Your pics are very informative. |
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leonAzul
Joined: 12 Mar 2014 Posts: 17
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Posted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 7:37 pm Post subject: |
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leonAzul wrote:
WNG555 wrote: |
Also have an Auto 50mm f/2, unknown vintage as I bought it alone.
It's resolution and color are also excellent, the 1.8 is a bit sharper. I don't remember being nauseated by horrible bokeh, but I haven't tried it for bokeh goaled shots.
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Sorry to take so long to respond.
This comment sent me searching my archives for examples, when I discovered that those had been purged to make room for new scans.
Deciding to make new examples, I noticed a film on the rear element of the M/S Auto 50/2. Regular cleaning fluid couldn't lift it; peroxide water did, leaving me to conclude it was some sort of cooking grease. Sure enough, most of the other 50/2s had a similar film. Once they were properly cleaned, nearly all aberrations and flaring disappeared as well.
So I'll happily retract that statement about "nauseating" blur, and just note that specular highlights tend to be hard-edged rather than smooth — whether that's good or bad is entirely a matter of taste and subject matter.
M/S Auto 50/2.0 on E-m5
M-S E 50/2.0 S on E-M5 |
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WNG555
Joined: 18 Dec 2014 Posts: 784 Location: Arrid-Zone-A, USA
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Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2015 12:15 am Post subject: |
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WNG555 wrote:
Ah no big deal!
I really like the results of the 1st photo, very nice! I see what you mean regarding the hard edge-ness.
The water droplet bokeh! _________________ "The eyes are useless when the mind is blind."
Sony ILCE-6000, SELP1650, SEL1855, SEL55210, SEL5018. Sigma 19/30/60mm f2.8 EX DN Art.
Rokinon 8mm f3.5 Fish-Eye, 14mm f2.8 IF ED UMC. Samyang 12mm f2.8 ED AS NCS Fish-Eye.
And a bunch of Manual-Focus Lenses
My Flickr |
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ramiller500
Joined: 20 Nov 2007 Posts: 124 Location: Indianapolis, IN, USA
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Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2015 3:18 pm Post subject: |
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ramiller500 wrote:
leonAzul,
Did the oily film you needed to remove come from the lubricating grease in the lenses or from some other source? I've had some luck using isopropanol to remove oil from glass surfaces. _________________ Sincerely,
Bob Miller |
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leonAzul
Joined: 12 Mar 2014 Posts: 17
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Posted: Thu Jul 16, 2015 7:50 am Post subject: |
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leonAzul wrote:
ramiller500 wrote: |
leonAzul,
Did the oily film you needed to remove come from the lubricating grease in the lenses or from some other source? I've had some luck using isopropanol to remove oil from glass surfaces. |
It was all on the outside, and very thin, so that unless I happened to look for it I wouldn't notice it.
I have also seen cases like you describe, and I should have noticed the similarities in rendering sooner. I have one lens in mind that I haven't opened up because it turns out to be the perfect rainy day lens. The thin oily film greatly increases contrast and a tendency to flare, while making it almost impossible for fungus or mold to attach itself if I neglect drying it completely. Not that I recommend such a treatment, but in this case I found a use for that lens.
I'll choose the solvent depending on the material to be cleaned and the material to be removed. Isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol) is appropriate for metallic aperture or shutter blades. It won't hurt glass, but there are some plastics, paints, and rubberized (latex-based) materials that it will just melt away. It is also quite volatile so it might evaporate before it can lift the dirt from the glass, which would entail repeated treatments and repeated opportunities for scratching the glass.
Better yet for fine carbonized metal blades, though, is naphthalene (lighter fluid).
What I use with glass will depend on what else the glass is in contact with. With glass by itself, I usually start with ammonia (ammoniated water) and add peroxide (oxygenated water) as needed, and that usually gets the job done.
Please note that I prefer water-based solvents, except when the cleaning involves metals. With metals, a different context obtains, which requires different tactics, due to different chemistry. |
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