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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014 Posts: 724
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Posted: Tue May 26, 2015 6:46 pm Post subject: My development procedure still "lacks" quality |
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alaios wrote:
Dear all,
I have not posted much recently since I was busy with my digital workflow. Although my biggest love still remains film and there is time I need to spend to improve my processing.
These are the typical problems I have:
(I have bought a new tank to make my life loading it easier http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B003PX4ZFU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage)
-Loading the 36 pozes film to the very end of the spiral. There are times that I have to "push" the film which makes the surface to slightly crack and suffer
-There is always a part staying outside that makes it harder to find enough liquid . Also it make the film at this part to be easier to be scratched as gets inside the tank
-Removing the film. I had to pull it strongly and I am sure that has damaged it even more.
Below I am sharing some shots that look bad because of my poor handling. I would like to see if you can explain me what has caused the specific type of problem in these shots. You do not have to comment each one. Just grab one or two you think you know what the problem might be
All photos can also be seen in the link below
http://alexpal.smugmug.com/ToShare/WhatIamDoingWrong/n-mQjTcD/i-grjXhn6
Regards
Alex
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_________________ “The fact is that relatively few photographers ever master their medium. Instead they allow the medium to master them and go on an endless squirrel cage chase from new lens to new paper to new developer to new gadget, never staying with one piece of equipment long enough to learn its full capacities, becoming lost in a maze of technical information that is of little or no use since they don’t know what to do with it”
(written at 1927 by Edward Weston) |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9097 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Wed May 27, 2015 3:08 am Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
Yeah, in most cases, I'd chalk it up to poor handling of the film. Not to say you didn't do your best, but you might have been dealing with equipment that didn't allow you to do it the way it should be done.
Good thing you bought it from Amazon because you might want to return it.
Try this -- take your developed film -- if you haven't cut it up yet, that is -- and feed it back into the reel. Be sure you've cut off that initial "tongue" that the roll has at the beginning. See where the problem is occuring. If the reel doesn't have enough room to hold a 36-exposure roll, then the only solution is to find a higher capacity reel.
I currently use a Paterson tank and I've had no problems with 36-exposure rolls of 35mm. I've used Jobo in the past, also with no problems. Heck, I've even used those cheap little Yankee tanks that have the thermometer that you twirl (instead of inverting the tank), and even those haven't had a problem with 36-exposure rolls.
So if you can confirm that the rolls don't have the capacity, then if I were you, I'd box that setup back up and return it. Then get a Paterson or Jobo or something of equivalent value. And then leave a poor review at Amazon about it so others can avoid the problems you had. On the other hand, if you see that there is enough room on the reel, then you need to look to what it's gonna take to wind it up on the reel properly.
That's about all I can think of. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014 Posts: 724
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Posted: Thu May 28, 2015 5:32 pm Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
Thanks for the reply.
I did not have the time to check all what you wrote me. In the mean time I just scan previously developed films.. I can see some tiny dots in my film that look like persistent dirt (is an "external" tiny dust)
Any ideas what this can be?
Regards
Alex _________________ “The fact is that relatively few photographers ever master their medium. Instead they allow the medium to master them and go on an endless squirrel cage chase from new lens to new paper to new developer to new gadget, never staying with one piece of equipment long enough to learn its full capacities, becoming lost in a maze of technical information that is of little or no use since they don’t know what to do with it”
(written at 1927 by Edward Weston) |
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miran
Joined: 01 Aug 2012 Posts: 1364 Location: Slovenia
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Posted: Thu May 28, 2015 6:29 pm Post subject: |
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miran wrote:
Practice makes perfect, is all the advice I can give. My first attempts were similar to yours, maybe not as severe but still. It took a lot of time but eventually I settled with a workflow that in the end gives me nice, clean negatives and almost spotless scans. You too will get there, just keep working at it. _________________ my flickr stream |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9097 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Fri May 29, 2015 12:05 am Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
Dust, dirt, hairs, what have you -- if they're solid objects or particles, they'll always show up as white spots or objects on your negative film. So if they aren't white, then they aren't dust or dirt. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014 Posts: 724
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Posted: Fri May 29, 2015 10:43 am Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
I also had one more hit last night...
I keep my negatives inside film cases. I had problem to remove one of my film strips as it was stuck with the thin plastic... Ouch part of it stayed over my films surface.
Once I finish scanning the ones I already developed. I would be only doing one film at a time to be more concetraded on one film...
I will post back
Alex _________________ “The fact is that relatively few photographers ever master their medium. Instead they allow the medium to master them and go on an endless squirrel cage chase from new lens to new paper to new developer to new gadget, never staying with one piece of equipment long enough to learn its full capacities, becoming lost in a maze of technical information that is of little or no use since they don’t know what to do with it”
(written at 1927 by Edward Weston) |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9097 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Fri May 29, 2015 2:04 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
Instead of storing your developed film in the film containers, it's really a better idea -- and better for your film in the long run -- to buy a package of loose leaf archival-quality pages for your film. At the top of each page is a header area, where you can list the subject matter, type of film and camera, date taken, etc.
Of course you'll have to cut your film into strips. Most of these pages will hold strips of five images, held vertically. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014 Posts: 724
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Posted: Sat May 30, 2015 4:14 pm Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
can you please share some ebay link for those? It would be easier for me to understand what you have in mind
Regards
Alex _________________ “The fact is that relatively few photographers ever master their medium. Instead they allow the medium to master them and go on an endless squirrel cage chase from new lens to new paper to new developer to new gadget, never staying with one piece of equipment long enough to learn its full capacities, becoming lost in a maze of technical information that is of little or no use since they don’t know what to do with it”
(written at 1927 by Edward Weston) |
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PWhite214
Joined: 19 Apr 2014 Posts: 230 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 2:54 am Post subject: |
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PWhite214 wrote:
Film sleeves or pages: http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-x-Negative-Filing-Sheets-for-35mm-Film-Pages-Fit-Ring-Binder-Archive-Folders-/121248271190?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c3af5cb56
If you are using plastic 'ratcheting' type reels that are adjustable for film size, simply pull them apart to get the film off. Cleaning old reels with a tooth brush solved some problems.
Phil |
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Mal
Joined: 02 Oct 2015 Posts: 3 Location: Perth, wa
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Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 2:58 pm Post subject: |
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Mal wrote:
Hi,
I am very new to b/w home developing too, I only have 7 rolls (35mm and 120) under my belt.
I have not used a Paterson tank because I stumbled across Rondinax tanks during my initial research.
Now, with only 7 rolls of film as experience I am not saying these are better than other methods ...i think I'd get expelled if I did that
However, it may be a workable alternative if you find loading a Paterson type tank fiddly.
You can load them in broad daylight and I find them very easy to use. And I seem to be getting consistent results. Now a qualifier, I use Ilford FP4+ and HP5 film, these films work well in these tanks. However, film stock that is thinner than these films may not work with these tanks. See the website below for loads of info and videos.
They are not cheap though; sadly they are no longer made so eBay or junk sales or antique camera dealers etc will be your only source. The 35mm versions are generally easier to find than the 120 format, the latter being even more expensive.
https://rondinax.wordpress.com
Just a thought. _________________ Cheers,
Mal
Oz
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Manual Cameras/Lens:
Balda Baldinette 35mm w/- Schneider-Kreuznach Radionar 50/2.9
Voigtländer Vito CD 35mm w/- Lanthar 50/2.8
Kodak Retina 1a 35mm w/- Schneider-Kreuznach Retina-Xenar 50/2.8
Zeiss Ikon Ikoflex 6x6 851/16 w/- CZJ Triotar 75/3.5
Voigtländer Bessa (early) 6x9 w/- Voigtar Anastigmat 75(?)/6.3
Zeiss Ercona II 6x9 w/- CZJ Tessar 105/3.5 (FAV#1)
Zeiss Nettar 517/2 6x9 w/- Nova-Anastigmat 105/4.5 (FAV#2)
Mamiya M645 1000S w/- SEKOR C 55/2.8 C
For completeness:
Nikon D7100 w/- 20/2.8; 17-55/2.8; 11-16/2.8; 80-200/2.8
flickr.com/photos |
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