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Mir
Joined: 07 Feb 2011
Posts: 978
Location: Montreal, Canada
Expire: 2017-09-30
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 Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 4:15 am Post subject: Vivitar Series 1 3/200 M42 (another...) |
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Mir wrote:
M42 VIVITAR Series 1 Auto Telephoto 200mm 1:3 #28xxxxx 1975 ∅72 MFD:120cm 8 blades
Our first date and i'm in LOVE !
A joy to use and look through.
I think got a good copy, with nice cosmetics and great glass.
All as been said about these big old things...
Mostly wide open...
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_________________
"Obsta principiis, finem respice"
"There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness"
MISC: Tamron SP 35-80 (01A), Auto Chinon Tomioka 1.4/55, Tokina AT-X 2.5/90, Tamron SP 5,6/300 (54B)
ZEISS: WG Distagon 2.8/25, WG Distagon 2.8/35 HFT, WG Planar HFT 1.4/50, Ultron 1.8/50, WG Sonnar 2.8/85, WG Sonnar HFT 2.8/135
VOIGTLÄNDER : Ultron Aspherical 1.8/21, Ultron 2/28, Nokton Aspherical 1.2/35, Nokton Classic 1.4/40, Nokton Aspherical 1.5/50, Color-Heliar 2.5/75
MINOLTA: MD 3.5/35-70 Macro, MD 1.2/50, MC Rokkor-X 1.2/58, MD Macro 3.5/50
LEITZ: SUMMICRON-R 2/35 (II), SUMMICRON-R 2/50 (II), TELE ELMARIT-M 2,8/90 (Thin)
CANON RF: 2.8/28, 2/35, 1.2/50, 1.4/50, Serenar 1.8/50, 2/85, 2/100, 3.5/100
LTM : CHIYODA KOGAKU SUPER ROKKOR 1.8/5cm, CHIYOKO SUPER ROKKOR C 2/5cm, TOKYO KOGAKU Topcor-S 2/5cm, Nippon Kogaku NIKKOR-H.C 2/5cm, FUJI FILM CO. FUJINON L 2/5cm, KMZ Jupiter-8 2/5cm
And a small Minolta AF set: 2.8/20, 1.4/35, 1.4/50, 2/100, 4.5/100-200
@we3fotography
@7plus_pictures
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Oldhand
Joined: 01 Apr 2013
Posts: 6009
Location: Mid North Coast NSW - Australia
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| Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 8:06 am Post subject: |
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Oldhand wrote:
It seem that the reputation of this lens is well deserved.
I haven't heard one unhappy owner yet.
Thanks for sharing these.
OH |
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kenetik
Joined: 02 Mar 2014
Posts: 524
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| Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 11:15 am Post subject: |
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kenetik wrote:
I just picked one of these up cheap and it is a great lens. The purple fringe it generates can be hard to remove on wide open shots. I shot a pic of a pigeon standing on my back fence and there was a thick purple outline on the bird. Photoshop's fringe removal barely touched it, DXO did better, but still had some issues. Desaturating it was noticeable. I know this isn't unusual for vintage telephotos, it was just more than some other 200s I have.
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woodrim
Joined: 14 Jan 2010
Posts: 4060
Location: Charleston
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| Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 1:02 am Post subject: |
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woodrim wrote:
| kenetik wrote: |
| I just picked one of these up cheap and it is a great lens. The purple fringe it generates can be hard to remove on wide open shots. I shot a pic of a pigeon standing on my back fence and there was a thick purple outline on the bird. Photoshop's fringe removal barely touched it, DXO did better, but still had some issues. Desaturating it was noticeable. I know this isn't unusual for vintage telephotos, it was just more than some other 200s I have. |
There is a manual procedure for removing blue CA that works very well. I have written it in a post somewhere in MFL. Ca will appear more or less depending on your sensor. I get very little with my NEX-5N. If you'd like to send me your uncorrected image, I'll show how it can be corrected, just send me a PM to exchange email addresses.
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Woodrim |
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woodrim
Joined: 14 Jan 2010
Posts: 4060
Location: Charleston
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| Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 1:06 am Post subject: |
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woodrim wrote:
I'm so glad you're enjoying the lens, Marcel. You too will need to remove the blue fringing. I got more of it with my A200. Here's one from yesterday, but not my best with this lens.
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Woodrim |
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kenetik
Joined: 02 Mar 2014
Posts: 524
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| Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 5:37 am Post subject: |
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kenetik wrote:
| woodrim wrote: |
| kenetik wrote: |
| I just picked one of these up cheap and it is a great lens. The purple fringe it generates can be hard to remove on wide open shots. I shot a pic of a pigeon standing on my back fence and there was a thick purple outline on the bird. Photoshop's fringe removal barely touched it, DXO did better, but still had some issues. Desaturating it was noticeable. I know this isn't unusual for vintage telephotos, it was just more than some other 200s I have. |
There is a manual procedure for removing blue CA that works very well. I have written it in a post somewhere in MFL. Ca will appear more or less depending on your sensor. I get very little with my NEX-5N. If you'd like to send me your uncorrected image, I'll show how it can be corrected, just send me a PM to exchange email addresses. |
PM sent Woodrim, thank you. I have a Nex 6 and agree it does produce a lot less CA than my A7. The A7 is both a blessing and a curse with MF lenses. Full frame mirrorless is pretty cool. You see a lot more flaws in old glass when you're not using just the center, though and the thickness of the A7 sensor glass causes a lot of off axis abberation. I've noticed metering is also less accurate than the NEX and the ovf tends to be darker. That said, I've been trying to learn the ins and outs of it and how the camera reacts to different lenses.
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I buy lots of lenses and sometimes I even use them... |
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kenetik
Joined: 02 Mar 2014
Posts: 524
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| Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 6:07 am Post subject: |
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kenetik wrote:
Didn't want to take away from the original message of this thread which I will echo, this is a great lens. I did want to show some of the CA produced by the lens on the A7. This isn't a great picture but it makes the point.
Here is the original raw file opened with defaults and saved as a jpeg:
Here is a 100% crop of the above showing the bird with the fringing discussed earlier:
Here is a 200% crop of the bird's head showing the CA:
Here is the original image after using DXO's defringe and then doing some manual desaturating in Photoshop:
Here is roughly the same 100% crop of the bird post defringe/desaturate:
Here is a 200% crop post processing:
It took me a while to get it to the point you see and the bird ends up having gray feathers instead of purple  I could have done the Photoshop equivalent of Just for Men and washed out the gray, but my point is, the 200/f3 on the A7 produces CA that isn't easy to get rid of. Higher contrast edges produce more than this example wide open. I have telephoto lenses that produce even worse purple fringe in the same ~200mm range. Other than the work involved in some shots, I love this lens.
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I buy lots of lenses and sometimes I even use them... |
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Mir
Joined: 07 Feb 2011
Posts: 978
Location: Montreal, Canada
Expire: 2017-09-30
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| Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 11:28 pm Post subject: |
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Mir wrote:
I haven't yet used it much and although it's a wonderful lens, with not many negatives about it,
until now, its CA kind of kills it for me.....
_________________
"Obsta principiis, finem respice"
"There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness"
MISC: Tamron SP 35-80 (01A), Auto Chinon Tomioka 1.4/55, Tokina AT-X 2.5/90, Tamron SP 5,6/300 (54B)
ZEISS: WG Distagon 2.8/25, WG Distagon 2.8/35 HFT, WG Planar HFT 1.4/50, Ultron 1.8/50, WG Sonnar 2.8/85, WG Sonnar HFT 2.8/135
VOIGTLÄNDER : Ultron Aspherical 1.8/21, Ultron 2/28, Nokton Aspherical 1.2/35, Nokton Classic 1.4/40, Nokton Aspherical 1.5/50, Color-Heliar 2.5/75
MINOLTA: MD 3.5/35-70 Macro, MD 1.2/50, MC Rokkor-X 1.2/58, MD Macro 3.5/50
LEITZ: SUMMICRON-R 2/35 (II), SUMMICRON-R 2/50 (II), TELE ELMARIT-M 2,8/90 (Thin)
CANON RF: 2.8/28, 2/35, 1.2/50, 1.4/50, Serenar 1.8/50, 2/85, 2/100, 3.5/100
LTM : CHIYODA KOGAKU SUPER ROKKOR 1.8/5cm, CHIYOKO SUPER ROKKOR C 2/5cm, TOKYO KOGAKU Topcor-S 2/5cm, Nippon Kogaku NIKKOR-H.C 2/5cm, FUJI FILM CO. FUJINON L 2/5cm, KMZ Jupiter-8 2/5cm
And a small Minolta AF set: 2.8/20, 1.4/35, 1.4/50, 2/100, 4.5/100-200
@we3fotography
@7plus_pictures
@_whats.that.car_ |
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woodrim
Joined: 14 Jan 2010
Posts: 4060
Location: Charleston
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| Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 12:32 am Post subject: |
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woodrim wrote:
I'm not noticing CA in those images.
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Woodrim |
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Mir
Joined: 07 Feb 2011
Posts: 978
Location: Montreal, Canada
Expire: 2017-09-30
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| Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 1:53 am Post subject: |
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Mir wrote:
Since i'm no PP wizard, i did not post them !
_________________
"Obsta principiis, finem respice"
"There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness"
MISC: Tamron SP 35-80 (01A), Auto Chinon Tomioka 1.4/55, Tokina AT-X 2.5/90, Tamron SP 5,6/300 (54B)
ZEISS: WG Distagon 2.8/25, WG Distagon 2.8/35 HFT, WG Planar HFT 1.4/50, Ultron 1.8/50, WG Sonnar 2.8/85, WG Sonnar HFT 2.8/135
VOIGTLÄNDER : Ultron Aspherical 1.8/21, Ultron 2/28, Nokton Aspherical 1.2/35, Nokton Classic 1.4/40, Nokton Aspherical 1.5/50, Color-Heliar 2.5/75
MINOLTA: MD 3.5/35-70 Macro, MD 1.2/50, MC Rokkor-X 1.2/58, MD Macro 3.5/50
LEITZ: SUMMICRON-R 2/35 (II), SUMMICRON-R 2/50 (II), TELE ELMARIT-M 2,8/90 (Thin)
CANON RF: 2.8/28, 2/35, 1.2/50, 1.4/50, Serenar 1.8/50, 2/85, 2/100, 3.5/100
LTM : CHIYODA KOGAKU SUPER ROKKOR 1.8/5cm, CHIYOKO SUPER ROKKOR C 2/5cm, TOKYO KOGAKU Topcor-S 2/5cm, Nippon Kogaku NIKKOR-H.C 2/5cm, FUJI FILM CO. FUJINON L 2/5cm, KMZ Jupiter-8 2/5cm
And a small Minolta AF set: 2.8/20, 1.4/35, 1.4/50, 2/100, 4.5/100-200
@we3fotography
@7plus_pictures
@_whats.that.car_ |
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tromboads
Joined: 29 May 2012
Posts: 1782
Location: Melbourne AU
Expire: 2015-10-01
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| Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 2:12 am Post subject: |
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tromboads wrote:
I was gonna say, I seem to put up with a lot more CA and fringing then any of you lot 
kenetik, that shot with the pigeon isn't that bad considering how small the animal is on the sensor. |
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davev8app
Joined: 09 Dec 2010
Posts: 134
Location: UK
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| Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 12:04 pm Post subject: |
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davev8app wrote:
i almost had a mint copy of this lens..one came on flea bay had only been on 5 min. i email him if he had a buy it now he say yes £15 !!! i say yes so he relisted it as a buy it now only for some one to hit the button befor i refound it 
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nex-3c MD f3.5 35-70mm macro.. rokkor 50-135 F3.5 FDn 50mm 1.4.. black jupiter 11 135 F4..big list of 28mm 35mm 50mm 135mm to see what are keepers 5D,40D ,20D, MF Tamron SP 90 F2.5 Macro, Canon 17-35 F2.8L, Canon 80-200 F2.8L Magic drainpipe, Tokina ATX 28-70 F2.6-F2.8 Pro11, Canon 17-55 F2.8 IS The slow one Canon 100-300 F5.6L. Lens i wish i never sold>> Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar 180 mm f2.8< |
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woodrim
Joined: 14 Jan 2010
Posts: 4060
Location: Charleston
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| Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 5:51 pm Post subject: |
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woodrim wrote:
| davev8app wrote: |
| i almost had a mint copy of this lens..one came on flea bay had only been on 5 min. i email him if he had a buy it now he say yes £15 !!! i say yes so he relisted it as a buy it now only for some one to hit the button befor i refound it |
Oh, then I have you to thank? 
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Woodrim |
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Big Dawg
Joined: 28 Jan 2009
Posts: 2530
Location: Thach Alabama
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| Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 4:33 am Post subject: |
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Big Dawg wrote:
I see more in the last photo than all the others combined. I don't shoot to sell but mainly for myself and friends. A little PF is not an issue as long as I can PP most of it out in Light Room. Some of the secret to less PF is the conditions where you shoot. Try a shot from different angles and positions. A light source from behind you will help eliminate a lot of the PF. Just an old man's opinion. You've got a good lens there. I've owned several....Oh yeah..If the rubber on the focus ring gets messed up let me know. I can show you how to replace it without spending much.
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Big Dawg |
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woodrim
Joined: 14 Jan 2010
Posts: 4060
Location: Charleston
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| Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 2:39 pm Post subject: |
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woodrim wrote:
| Big Dawg wrote: |
| I see more in the last photo than all the others combined. I don't shoot to sell but mainly for myself and friends. A little PF is not an issue as long as I can PP most of it out in Light Room. Some of the secret to less PF is the conditions where you shoot. Try a shot from different angles and positions. A light source from behind you will help eliminate a lot of the PF. Just an old man's opinion. You've got a good lens there. I've owned several....Oh yeah..If the rubber on the focus ring gets messed up let me know. I can show you how to replace it without spending much. |
I believe I have written this before... CA has been minimal since upgrading my camera to NEX-5N. What little there is of blue/purple is extremely easy to correct; it takes about 10 seconds in Photoshop. I've never let the possibility of CA influence my shooting because it is so easy to correct.
Please do share your idea for grip replacement. I have searched for rubber material to use, but so far have not found anything suitable. In the past, I have taken grips from junk lenses, but my need is for the S1 2.3/135 which is a large diameter.
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Woodrim |
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John Shriver
Joined: 24 Dec 2009
Posts: 193
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| Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2015 2:43 am Post subject: |
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John Shriver wrote:
I used "griptac" safety grip that I bought off a roll at the local Ace hardware store. Had to make a template to cut the right shaped piece. I'm sometimes tempted by the Pentax-A* 200/2.8, but I doubt it's as good at close distances.
Here's a shot that shows it's nice Bokeh. Sorry about the dust spots, forgot to turn on ICE on this scan.
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