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switar AR 25mm 1.4, how to get the swirly?
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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2014 5:01 pm    Post subject: switar AR 25mm 1.4, how to get the swirly? Reply with quote

I recently managed to get another c mount adapter so I'm finally getting a chance to use all the c mount lenses I've collected over the last couple of months.

totally in love with them after this weekend;) but I tried to compose shots with the switar to get that swirly effect in the background but didn't manage to get this right.

are there any pointers on how to get this effect to pronounce themselves in the pictures?

on the other hand I bought and this is a bit of an anomaly a Toshima 1 1/2 inch 1.9 D mount lens that almost covers the whole sensor on MFT. I converted to c mount and the shots are very cool and have heavily pronounced swirls with oof areas.

any advice will be appreciated, I'll post photos from both lenses tomorrow.


PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2014 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not familiar with this lens but for the Helios it only works

- wide open

- point sources of light in background (sunlight light peaking thru foliage, reflections on water, distant artificial lights, etc.

- only shows up within a certain focus range


PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2014 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the same problem with the Helios, I find it very hard to get the swirl effect, a bit better with the 44-2 I got recently but a lot has to do with the distance away from the different areas in the shot.


PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry I know its repeated subject matter but it was quite a wild difference in the background swirl, This is the Toshima 1.1/2 inch 1.9 D mount lens that I converted to C mount









Last edited by Layer-cake on Tue May 06, 2014 5:55 pm; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And are some shots taken with the switar:





It was my first time using the lenses but I really like the quality of the switar images Very Happy


PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2014 1:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What camera did you use?
more crop cam will not show swirl. D mount is for small film format, I guess your camera Nikon 1 or Pentax Q?


PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2014 4:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

lumix GF1, I bought the toshima for its iris but was quite pleasantly surprised that it covered most of the sensor so decided to see what results I got.

I didn't use any crop in the images.


PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2014 7:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

IAZA wrote:
What camera did you use?
more crop cam will not show swirl. D mount is for small film format, I guess your camera Nikon 1 or Pentax Q?

I mean crop cam>> eg. Sony NEX 1,5 crop, M4/3 crop 2x, Nikon 1 and Pentax Q has more crop.
So you have 2x crop camera Smile
My switar 25/1,4 AR on EPM1 has vignete on full 3:4 mode. like this

I wonder why yours has no vignete

Switar isn't famous as swirly lens, Fujian TV lens 25/1,4 has it and cheaper Smile


PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2014 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just buy a cooke kinic 1 inch f/1.5 Wink


PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2014 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I double checked to make sure its on 4:3, I made the mistake before Wink I do get a slight vignette on the corners with the switar but no dark patches, could be copy variance maybe?

nordentro: I would be pleased to find a cooke at a good price but they seem to fetch quite a bit on the bay. I did however buy a wollensak 25mm 1.5 but its with my girlfriends mother in a different part of the country just waiting for her to send it too me. I've read they also give quite a heavy swirl effect.


PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2014 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Edited

Last edited by bernhardas on Mon Apr 04, 2016 4:26 pm; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2014 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many thanks for the suggestion, i never really thought about getting the oof focal point set to get the desired background first, this is something ill definitely be attempting to do.


PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2014 7:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bernhardas wrote:
For maximum swirlyness or bubblyness i usually change my workflow.

First I just defocus the background untill the desired effect is clearly visible, then you can determine the distance to which the lens is set (for example 1,5 m) and then I place the main subject at this distance.

+1 this is what we call "The main object is bokeh" the on focus part composition based on OOF area on frame Smile


PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2014 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

IAZA wrote:
bernhardas wrote:
For maximum swirlyness or bubblyness i usually change my workflow.

First I just defocus the background untill the desired effect is clearly visible, then you can determine the distance to which the lens is set (for example 1,5 m) and then I place the main subject at this distance.

+1 this is what we call "The main object is bokeh" the on focus part composition based on OOF area on frame Smile


+2 Wink