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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014 Posts: 724
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Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2014 1:47 pm Post subject: Beyond f/16 |
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alaios wrote:
Hi there,
I am going currently a very stressful day and the only think to relax me is my Zenit ET film camera I have with me. Light meter does not work but this will not stop me for slowing down and enjoy photoshooting
Today the is very cloudy in germany so I guess aperture would be between 5.6 and 4 (no shadows)
I would be also leaving work around 21:00 where it would be fully dark to take my train. While I will be waiting for the train I would try some shots. I would like to have a small aperture for very depth field so something like f/11.
My film is iso 200 and I guess I would have to have very large shutter period (do not have remote release though). Faster Shutter speed is 1/30.
Do you think I can try some shots at night with that settings? (Note: B does not seem to work. I press shutter down but the camera still closes it immediately)
I could also try the camera inside the train where there is man made lighting. Can you give some ideas?
Regards
Alex |
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Mr G
Joined: 27 Jan 2014 Posts: 187 Location: London & Essex
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Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2014 3:21 pm Post subject: |
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Mr G wrote:
Hi Alex, your message is stressing me out, feel free to pm message me your address and I will send you a camera body that works properly, cheers Carl. _________________ EVEN A BLIND SQUIRREL FINDS A NUT NOW AND THEN! |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014 Posts: 724
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Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2014 3:35 pm Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
what scared you? that pressing the shutter to B it returns automatically back?
Alex |
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RSalles
Joined: 12 Aug 2012 Posts: 1373 Location: Brazil - RS / South
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Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 2:23 am Post subject: |
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RSalles wrote:
Alaios,
Man, with a shutter malfunction and a not working camera meter, what are you waiting for to get a working camera for free?
BTW, for this situations I always trust my Gossen Lunasix handheld meter: for long exposures, that's the way to go...
Cheers,
Renato |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014 Posts: 724
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Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 5:18 am Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
I have started shooting film again, since my first failed attempt.
There is something at f/16 rule which I do not intuitively works well with my brain.
One hour after dawn I have a full sky cloud with no reflections on the objects. That would give me a f/4 with a shutter speed of 1/250 for an iso 200 film. There is something telling me in my brain "Light is not enough"
Alex |
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RSalles
Joined: 12 Aug 2012 Posts: 1373 Location: Brazil - RS / South
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Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 5:31 am Post subject: |
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RSalles wrote:
Alaios,
Double check with your digital if needed, seems to be out for me toward under exposure, 1/250 at f16 and ISO 200 needs a lot of light...
[]s,
Renato |
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buerokratiehasser
Joined: 12 Jun 2011 Posts: 470
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Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 7:07 am Post subject: |
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buerokratiehasser wrote:
Well he is shooting CN probably so why care at all?
I doubt you can make f/16 at night without working B or 10s
Experience of mine
Summer day Full Sun Kaiserwetter ISO 100 f8 1/750 (1/500..1/1000)
Night with lots of lights, lighted buildings etc (adjusted to dark frame not the usual washout) f4 or more open, ISO 400, 1/20..1/10 s or longer Yes handheld with SSS some actually usable. |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014 Posts: 724
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Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 12:41 pm Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
I also have the feeling that f/16 would end up with million of underexposured shots...
A. |
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Mos6502
Joined: 20 Jun 2011 Posts: 961 Location: Austin
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Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 6:38 pm Post subject: |
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Mos6502 wrote:
alaios wrote: |
I have started shooting film again, since my first failed attempt.
There is something at f/16 rule which I do not intuitively works well with my brain.
One hour after dawn I have a full sky cloud with no reflections on the objects. That would give me a f/4 with a shutter speed of 1/250 for an iso 200 film. There is something telling me in my brain "Light is not enough"
Alex |
The closer the sun gets to the horizon the faster the light decreases - you will run out of useable light very quickly after 7pm and cannot take hand held shots usually by 8pm - unless you have fast film and very fast lenses. Weather conditions may diminish useable light even faster.
Once shadows disappear you can no longer use shadows to judge light. You just know that it is darker than f/4 type darkness. So you have to look at the sky too.
If you want to use f/11 or so in these conditions you will need a tripod and slow shutter speeds. Or you need a very fast lens and to "push" your film now that super fast films are no longer available. I have found that after dark stopping down to f11 and giving an exposure time of between five and ten seconds will provide useable results for most city streets or streets with lots of streetlights. Stopping down and using a long exposure is often a better bet than trying to shoot with the lens wide open and a timed shutter speed. The reason is that there is only one stop worth of differences between a five second exposure and a ten second exposure - so you don't have to be super precise with your timing to get a useable negative. |
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philslizzy
Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 4748 Location: Cheshire, England
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Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 10:47 pm Post subject: |
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philslizzy wrote:
sunny 16 works well 2 hours after dawn and 2 hours before sunset. Anything after that will change every half an hour I would recommend 1 stop every 30 minutes. Its not an exact science of course, but has worked for generations before now.
Using ASA 200 film: if say its cloudy bright 2 hours before sunset (lets say sun sets at 9pm) then shoot at 1/250 at f11, 7.30; f8, 8pm; f5.6, 8.30; f4, 9.00; f2.8 or change shutter speed instead if you want Dof. so to keep f11 you shoot at 1/125 at 7.30 1/60 at 8.00, 1/30 at 8.30 then 1/30 at f8 at 9pm.
rule of thumb though with any sunny 16 exposure if in doubt use the next speed/aperture down. A little over exposure is better than under exposure
you need a camera with a better range of shutter speeds than the Zenit which is based on a 1950's design.
For better results with black and white where you need high contrast it is essential that you meter correctly. A camera with a built in TTL meter would be best if you want to wing it the old fashioned way.
For a well lit railway station at night, a combination of 1/4 at f8 ought to do the trick. It would be hard to keep the Zenit steady on B for that kind of shutter speed - even if B worked. I would estimate it at EV 5-6
I think in terms of exposure value (EV) google it _________________ Hero in the 'messin-with-cameras-for-the-hell-of-it department'. Official. |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014 Posts: 724
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Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 7:42 am Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
Hi
1)can someone explain me the following sentence?
"Stopping down and using a long exposure is often a better bet than trying to shoot with the lens wide open and a timed shutter speed. "
2)if I understand right the f/16 rule holds only when subject is at straight line between subject and the sun (even though sun is not visible due to clouds). If for example my direct sun lit area is f/11 I can not judge what happens when light goes a)through a window and b)under a tent where there is shadow
Beating 2a and 2b I guess would be the most intresting challenge. Being able after a lot of practice to rely on your eyes that on meters would be a revealing experience I guess
Alex |
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Oldhand
Joined: 01 Apr 2013 Posts: 6009 Location: Mid North Coast NSW - Australia
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Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 9:51 am Post subject: |
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Oldhand wrote:
A couple of nights ago I was out shooting stars at night @ ISO 200.
The combination that worked best for me was 3 minutes @ f4.
This was on digital and still needed time after the exposure for the camera to remove the generated noise.
On film you will have reciprocity failure.
Check out the extra exposure needed under these circumstances with film.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reciprocity_%28photography%29
Hope this helps
OH |
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