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PhantomLord
Joined: 08 Apr 2013 Posts: 476 Location: Szczecin, Poland
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Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 10:01 pm Post subject: Vivitar Series 1 70-210/3.5 - Tokina - what is wrong? |
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PhantomLord wrote:
Hello,
I just received Vivitar Series 1 70-210/3.5 Tokina version and found out it is full of fungus. I managed to unscrew several groups of lenses infected with fungus and cleaned it quickly with some Hama Optical Cleaner (I didn't have anything more apriopriate),but to my surprise it seemed to work. The glass is clean now, despite a few dust specks that came inside while assembling the lens.
However, results from this lens are quite bad. Below I present you 100% crops at different focal ranges. From 70mm to 135...150mm is great/ok, but above 150mm is quite tragic. Shots were made indoor with flash reflected form the celling with lens at wide open.
Could you tell me what could be wrong?
I'm sure I reassembled the lens just like it was, before the whole operation it was even softer. It was impossible that I misplaced any lens. Maybe I have some bad copy of this lens, or maybe somebody has idea how that could be fixed.
#1 - 70mm
#2 ~ 135mm
#3 - 150mm
#4 - 210mm
_________________ Mateusz
No good story ever starts with drinking tea.
Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/mateuszmolik/sets/ |
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WolverineX
Joined: 19 Apr 2009 Posts: 1694 Location: Zagreb , Croatia , Europe
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Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 11:04 pm Post subject: |
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WolverineX wrote:
are you sure you reassembled all the glass elements in right orientation? _________________ my tools:Oly E-M5 + 45mm/1.8 + Oly E-520 + 12-60 + 14-42 + 70-300 + Sigma 105mm + FL-50R + EC20 + SRF-11 ring flash
http://forum.mflenses.com/wolverinex-testing-my-lenses-series-link-list-t39524.html |
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PhantomLord
Joined: 08 Apr 2013 Posts: 476 Location: Szczecin, Poland
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Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 11:15 pm Post subject: |
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PhantomLord wrote:
Yes, I'm quite sure. Actually there's just one lens that could be placed wrong, but I was assembling it with parts list - exploaded schematic of the lens. _________________ Mateusz
No good story ever starts with drinking tea.
Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/mateuszmolik/sets/ |
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WolverineX
Joined: 19 Apr 2009 Posts: 1694 Location: Zagreb , Croatia , Europe
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Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 11:18 pm Post subject: |
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WolverineX wrote:
maybe it's bad copy of the lens. i have komine and kiron versions of the lens and they are good lenses, i didn't try tokina version, but a friend of mine bought one and returned it to seller because he wasn't satisfied with sharpness _________________ my tools:Oly E-M5 + 45mm/1.8 + Oly E-520 + 12-60 + 14-42 + 70-300 + Sigma 105mm + FL-50R + EC20 + SRF-11 ring flash
http://forum.mflenses.com/wolverinex-testing-my-lenses-series-link-list-t39524.html |
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7785 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 12:14 am Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
I've also got a Komine and a Kiron, the Kiron has some haze but both are sharp lenses. the reputation of the Series 1 70-210 is legendary, and I can't say I've heard bad things about the Tokina versions.
It's easy enough to flip a lens, I did it with a Tamron 90 / 2.5 and it took me hours of systematic work to discover which lens was back to front. _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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Oldhand
Joined: 01 Apr 2013 Posts: 6009 Location: Mid North Coast NSW - Australia
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Posted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 4:02 am Post subject: |
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Oldhand wrote:
Lloydy wrote: |
I've also got a Komine and a Kiron, the Kiron has some haze but both are sharp lenses. the reputation of the Series 1 70-210 is legendary, and I can't say I've heard bad things about the Tokina versions.
It's easy enough to flip a lens, I did it with a Tamron 90 / 2.5 and it took me hours of systematic work to discover which lens was back to front. |
+1 on that.
I have the Vivitar/Kiron version and it is supposed to be not quite as good as the Komine. The Tokina version is so close to the other two that it comes down to splitting hairs. There must be a fault in the lens like a reversed element or swapped elements or .......... Even a not so good copy should be able to produce better than what you are getting.
Just for comparison, here are a couple of "stick the lens out the door and shoot" images from the Kiron. The second is wide open.
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PhantomLord
Joined: 08 Apr 2013 Posts: 476 Location: Szczecin, Poland
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Posted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 7:37 am Post subject: |
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PhantomLord wrote:
I suppose I should take the lens apart and once again check with the schematics to ensure all lenses are placed correctly.
I wonder however, if one or more lenses are misplaced than why on the short end of the zoom, photos are sharp.
Thank you all for your posts, and if you have any ideas or maybe manual how to disassemble the lens completely, it would be great of help for me. _________________ Mateusz
No good story ever starts with drinking tea.
Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/mateuszmolik/sets/ |
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PhantomLord
Joined: 08 Apr 2013 Posts: 476 Location: Szczecin, Poland
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Posted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 1:32 pm Post subject: |
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PhantomLord wrote:
I have one another question. Does the object stays in focus when zooming? In my lens when I focus on the object at 70mm and carefully zoom towards the 210mm, focus point is changing and I need to refocus.
I'm asking this as somewhere I read that in this lens, focus should stay in place while zooming in or out.
Mateusz _________________ Mateusz
No good story ever starts with drinking tea.
Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/mateuszmolik/sets/ |
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kryss
Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Posts: 2169 Location: Canada
Expire: 2017-09-18
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Posted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 4:40 pm Post subject: |
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kryss wrote:
PhantomLord...You would be better off with Tamron 19AH 70-210 f3.5 better than any make Vivitar ser.1 or 3. _________________ Do not trust Atoms....they make up everything. |
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FotoPete
Joined: 20 Nov 2012 Posts: 126
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Posted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 4:40 pm Post subject: |
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FotoPete wrote:
I had the Vivitar Tokina 70-210 a long time ago and had only good things to say about it. In my copy, the front element retaining ring (where the name is inscribed) was loose at one point allowing the front element to rattle to and from. I retightened the ring and it was fine.
I can't say much else though, anything I've opened tend to get turned into a paperweight. Good luck with reviving the lens! _________________ My Gear and Other Ramblings :: http://filmlensaddict.blogspot.ca/ |
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hifisapi
Joined: 25 Sep 2012 Posts: 941 Location: USA
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Posted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 5:53 pm Post subject: |
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hifisapi wrote:
all true zoom lenses should hold focus as you zoom the focal length. you should NOT have to refocus every time you zoom. _________________ ===========
ACQUIRED OVER 30 YEARS:
Cameras: DSLR=Pentax istDS FILM=Pentax SP, SP-F, ESII, SP1000, KX, K2
Lenses : Pentax M42 = Super Multi Coated Takumars 50/1.4 55/1.8 100/4-BELLOWS 500/4.5 1000/8 135-600/6.7 Pentax PK= SMC Pentax-Ks K17/4-FF Fisheye K18/3.5 K20/4 K24/3.5 K28/3.5 K28/2 K35/3.5 K35/2 K50/1.2 K50/1.4K 50/4-MACROK 55/1.8 K85/1.8 K100/4-MACRO K100/4-BELLOWS K105/2.8 K120/2.8 K135/3.5 K135/2.5 K150/4 K200/4 K400/5.6 K45-125/4K 85-210/4.5 Pentax PKM = SMC Pentax-M M40/2.8-Pancake M50/1.4 M75-150/4 M80-200/4.5 Pentax PKA= SMC Pentax-A A15/3.5 A50/2.8-MACRO A28/2 A35/2 A50/1.4 A135/2.8 A200/4 A*300/4 A35-105/3.5 A24-50/4 A70-210/4 TAMRON AD2= SP80-200/2.8 SP180/2.5 TOKINA AT-X PK= ATX28-85/3.5-4.5 ATX35-70/2.8 ATX60-120/2.8 ATX80-200/2.8 ATX100-300/4 ATX90/2.5 MACRO KIRON-LESTER DINE PK = 105/2.8-MACRO VIVITAR PK = 135/2.8-MACRO 28-85/4 NOFLEXAR AUTOBELLOWS PK = 60/4 105/4 |
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frenched
Joined: 16 Feb 2013 Posts: 395 Location: MD USA
Expire: 2014-06-17
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Posted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 9:07 pm Post subject: |
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frenched wrote:
PhantomLord wrote: |
I have one another question. Does the object stays in focus when zooming? In my lens when I focus on the object at 70mm and carefully zoom towards the 210mm, focus point is changing and I need to refocus. |
The S1 70-210 is parfocal (holds focus while zooming). I also notice some weird bokeh for this lens in that first shot which I never saw from my Kiron version. But sorry, I can't offer ideas on why this is happening. |
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PhantomLord
Joined: 08 Apr 2013 Posts: 476 Location: Szczecin, Poland
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Posted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 7:56 am Post subject: |
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PhantomLord wrote:
kryss - Well, I'm looking for 19AH as I enjoy other Tamron Adaptalls I had/have, but not only me, so it's quite a bit pricey.
frenched - thank you for that information, in my copy when I set correct focus at let's say 210mm and carefully adjust to 70mm it becomes blurry.
Well, I disassembled lens to pieces and put it back together. I didn't touch aperture blades and mechanism as they work like a charm.
Below I pasted cut-through the lens from Parts List of Vivitar and lens number:
1. I cleaned from both sides and it is placed correctly
2,3. Those are glued together, so I clean exterior sides and it is placed correctly, there is no bubles or haze between elements
4,5. Are glued together as well as 6,7. But the thread that enables to disconnect 4,5 from 6,7 was glued (by factory), so I cleaned outside elements only. There was no dust/haze between elements and outside elements (4 and 7) are placed correctly, don't know about 5 and 6.
8/9,10. The same as above, I couldn't unscrew part that holds 8 and part that holds 9,10, but 8 and 10 are placed correctly.
11,12,13,14. I could access only lenses 11 and 14 from outside and they are placed correctly and clean.
When I put everything back together I only messed up infinity focus, as the lens is now focusing quite a bit after infinity.
However quality of picture didn't improve. All the slots and rolls that are responsible for zooming seem ok and in good shape. Nothing was broken or missing, there was no sign of tampering inside other than by myself.
Really don't know what's wrong. Maybe just a bad copy, but I could not accept that fact _________________ Mateusz
No good story ever starts with drinking tea.
Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/mateuszmolik/sets/ |
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6627 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 8:08 am Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
When reassembling a lens there are several things to worry about.
One is decentering.
Another is spacing.
The distance between groups can make a big difference.
Sometimes there is even a way on some lenses to make fine adjustments in spacing.
Maybe one of your groups is not correctly spaced ? _________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
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PhantomLord
Joined: 08 Apr 2013 Posts: 476 Location: Szczecin, Poland
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Posted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 9:40 am Post subject: |
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PhantomLord wrote:
luisalegria - Well, from what I saw in the lens itself it doesn't look like I had possibility to place elements out of center unless I would broke threads, but this didn't happen. Spacing of moving lens groups is done by slots and rolls (7 of them actually), so there is no place for correction either. The only thing I come up with is that those lens groups that are screwed together and threads are glued in the factory include some misplaced lens or maybe wrong type of the lens, but this would be unusual.
When I got home I'll try to post my step by step photos of disassemble, maybe someone will notice any mistakes/troubles.
I must say I don't have luck with Vivitar. Especially with 37xxx Tokina made Some time ago I bought 37/2.8 and it turned out to be a lemon: http://forum.mflenses.com/vivitar-35-2-8-test-shots-and-comparison-t60808.html _________________ Mateusz
No good story ever starts with drinking tea.
Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/mateuszmolik/sets/ |
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kryss
Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Posts: 2169 Location: Canada
Expire: 2017-09-18
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Posted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 9:49 am Post subject: |
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kryss wrote:
PhantomLord..I have 2 19AH and would be willing to sell a fellow member 1 at a good price,as you know the Vivitars were King at one time but then everyone discovered the 19AH(mainly thanks to this forum) and the Vivs dropped to $50 and 19AH goes for $200-$240 on Evilbay.Both my copies are in excellent condition and like most they have zoom creep which is easily fixed by peeling grip back and tightening screws.I can PM you with attractive price if interested + shipping at my cost and I accept Paypal.Regards kryss.I will also throw in anAdaptall 2 mount.FD.OM.MD,C/Y,PK,Nikon or Konica your choice. _________________ Do not trust Atoms....they make up everything. |
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PhantomLord
Joined: 08 Apr 2013 Posts: 476 Location: Szczecin, Poland
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Posted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 9:57 am Post subject: |
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PhantomLord wrote:
Hi kryss,
Actually I could be interested, but it all depends on price as I'm a little short on money for now. Anyway I surely would like to receive PM. Just remember that postage would be to Poland, so from Canada it could cost.
Mateusz _________________ Mateusz
No good story ever starts with drinking tea.
Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/mateuszmolik/sets/ |
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frenched
Joined: 16 Feb 2013 Posts: 395 Location: MD USA
Expire: 2014-06-17
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Posted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 2:54 pm Post subject: |
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frenched wrote:
PhantomLord wrote: |
in my copy when I set correct focus at let's say 210mm and carefully adjust to 70mm it becomes blurry. |
I had a S1 35-85/2.8 that had serious focusing issues, among others. Made by Tokina also. I swear the thing must have been dropped a few times before I got it. Maybe that's the problem with yours as well. Tokina's can't take a punch? |
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RAART
Joined: 10 Oct 2012 Posts: 499 Location: Oakville, ON, Canada
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Posted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 5:34 am Post subject: |
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RAART wrote:
kryss wrote: |
PhantomLord..I have 2 19AH and would be willing to sell a fellow member 1 at a good price,as you know the Vivitars were King at one time but then everyone discovered the 19AH(mainly thanks to this forum) and the Vivs dropped to $50 and 19AH goes for $200-$240 on Evilbay.Both my copies are in excellent condition and like most they have zoom creep which is easily fixed by peeling grip back and tightening screws.I can PM you with attractive price if interested + shipping at my cost and I accept Paypal.Regards kryss.I will also throw in anAdaptall 2 mount.FD.OM.MD,C/Y,PK,Nikon or Konica your choice. |
I might be interested too while I look to replace my Vivitar Series 1 (Kiron made) with Nikon mount with something better but P-K or P-KA mount. Please let me know. Thanks!
EDIT: Got the lens already from retail store... Thanks anyway! _________________
Camera: Pentax K3
FOR SALE:
Do you have Pentax-A or F or FA primes and like to trade?
Here is the list what I have to trade/sale:
Primes: - Kiron 28mm f2 (C/Y); Vivitar 28mm f2.5 Auto (FD); Minolta MD 50mm f2 (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 35mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 135mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3);
Zoom Lenses:
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ovim
Joined: 27 Sep 2008 Posts: 124 Location: Finland
Expire: 2015-01-28
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Posted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 11:13 am Post subject: |
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ovim wrote:
I haven't been very active here recently but I might be able to help...
All zoom lenses have two infinity focus adjustments. One for the short end and one for the long end, when both are adjusted correctly the lens will hold focus when zooming. It might be that if one or both of these adjustments is off considerably, it might start to degrade image quality across the zoom range.
I've repaired this lens succesfully once and might have some repair notes /instructions if you're interested, pm me. |
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PhantomLord
Joined: 08 Apr 2013 Posts: 476 Location: Szczecin, Poland
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Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 12:19 pm Post subject: |
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PhantomLord wrote:
frenched: Well, I hope not as accidents happen and lenses fall of
ovis: That's really interesting, I've sent you PM. Thank you. _________________ Mateusz
No good story ever starts with drinking tea.
Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/mateuszmolik/sets/ |
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