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Reluctant beauty rings
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 19, 2022 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reluctant beauty rings Reply with quote

I am quite frustrated since I am servicing some lenses and I am unable to open the beauty rings of a Minolta 85 2,0 and of a nFD 135 3,5.
I have used rubber cones and even drilled holes in the rings for spanner use to no avail.
Did you ever faced the problem and what would be the solution?


PostPosted: Sat Feb 19, 2022 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drilling holes should really be a last resort (although on a few rare occasions it was the only solution for me as well).

Re. the Minolta 85 2.0, I assume it is the MF Rokkor MDII / MDIII one? (not aware of an AF one). If so then you can try all day to unscrew that beauty ring to no avail; it isn't screwed in but forms an integral machined part of the front cover of the lens.

Turn the lens to the MFD, and three screws will become visible around the circumference of the front barrel. Undo those and the front cover with integral machined beauty ring will lift off Wink


PostPosted: Sat Feb 19, 2022 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Assuming one has (and has tried) proper lens spanners and a set of rubber removal tools, here are some general suggestions for removing stubborn beauty rings, based on personal experience (to some extent also applies to lens-retaining rings):

1) look for any tell-tale clues as to whether thread-lock had been used. This usually looks like a small (say 0.5 inch) stretch along the thread where some shiny lacquer-like substance has been applied. This will usually soften when a small amount of either acetone or alcohol is applied. Dab it on there with a q-tip. Don't flood the whole thread, in case the front lens is a balsam-cemented doublet. If you know the front element is not a doublet, then you can be (a little bit) more adventurous with the amount of solvent used. Leave the acetone/alcohol to work for a few minutes (re-applying acetone as it evaporates): thread-lock compound needs a little time to soften.

2) Hold your hand/fingers around the circumference of the filter thread for a little while. This will warm up the front of the lens barrel and make it expand a bit, which may help release the ring.

3) Rather than just attempting to unscrew it, try "walking" it out. This involves the use of a rubber friction tool. Assuming a right-hand (normal) thread, TURN the friction tool counter-clockwise, whilst simultaneously WIGGLING it around in a clockwise fashion. Harder to describe then to demonstrate Smile . But imagine the beauty ring as a slightly smaller toothed gear stuck inside an internally toothed ring. The gear can't freely turn as it is just too large and some of the teeth are always engaged. But it has enough play to wiggle around inside the internally toothed ring allowing the teeth to become disengaged on one side only. Imagine now if you wiggle the gear around the centre in a clockwise fashion, the gear will actually slowly turn counter-clockwise. You are trying to achieve the same here with the beauty ring. Although there are no teeth, the (often aluminium-on-aluminium) contact surface friction behaves in the same manner as the "teeth" in a gear. Still confused? Look up "harmonic gear drive"; although that usually involves slight deformation of a gear, the principle is very similar.

4) Still stuck? This may mar the surface finish a little bit, but get a very fine-tipped flat screwdriver, place the blade in the corner between the beauty-ring and the filter-thread, and give it a (very light!) tap. Repeat at 90 degree or 120 degree spots around the circumference in a clockwise order. This may break the stiction, and applies forces similar to as described in 3).


PostPosted: Sat Feb 19, 2022 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will try that. I was afraid that these screws were the connection for some sorts of helicoid and I am still not mentality prepared to play with these.

I need to access to the back of the front element for some cleaning. Hope there is no doublet here.


PostPosted: Sat Feb 19, 2022 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lumens pixel wrote:
I will try that. I was afraid that these screws were the connection for some sorts of helicoid and I am still not mentality prepared to play with these.

I need to access to the back of the front element for some cleaning. Hope there is no doublet here.


On this lens, those three screws do not play any roll in the helicoid adjustment. From memory, once you remove the front cover you will see three other screws inside which do allow for adjustment of infinity focus, as per the usual Minolta Rokkor constructions.

This lens (85mm f/2) has no cemented elements in the front cell.

If in doubt, I would always recommend a visit to Stephan's (stevemark) Artaphot site, which has diagrams for the lens configurations of almost all Minolta SR-mount manual focus lenses. Even if you can't read German, most information is still easily interpreted:

http://www.artaphot.ch

Follow the links "Minolta SR, MC, MD", then "Objektive"

http://www.artaphot.ch/minolta-sr/objektive/162-minolta-85mm-f2


PostPosted: Sat Feb 19, 2022 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many thanks. It worked. I was afraid of a micro fungus. Probably more a kind of coating damage. Could not wipe it out even using lighter fluid, hydrogen peroxide or distilled water.

Anyway the lens is reassembled and ready for use.


PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2022 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Acetone could melt plastic name ring (Minolta MD), heat it with a hair dryer or apply lighter fluid.

Marco


PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2022 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mareinke wrote:
Acetone could melt plastic name ring (Minolta MD), heat it with a hair dryer or apply lighter fluid.

Marco


I have never come across a plastic name ring that had been thread-locked, probably precisely for that reason.

Plastic name rings usually "walk" out easily, as per my earlier instructions. If they have been overtightened, then a pulling force whilst turning can also help with plastic name rings. Double-sided sticky tape or blu-tack around the edge of a plastic cylinder/cup can be of use here.

Be very careful with a hair dryer near glass elements, especially if they are older ones cemented with Canada balsam. A softer balsam as used on older larger front doublets can melt easily, potentially ruining the centering of the lenses:

Large balsam-cemented front doublets on older lenses sometimes have a flint & crown of different diameters, with the mounting only clamping the larger-diameter front element of the two, the rear element only held in alignment with the soft balsam. On these doublets the old balsam is still very soft in the middle, it is only the edge of the balsam that had been hardened in the factory originally, and after many years this edge may even have started to crystallise. These old doublets are often recognisable by the tell-tale gold shimmering rim just visible under the lens retaining ring, which is the crystallised very outer edge of the old balsam. These doublets are still very serviceable if treated with care, but quite susceptible to edge separation if heated or cooled rapidly, hence the warning re. the use of a hair dryer.

A particularly susceptible common example from Minolta is the MC ROKKOR 35mm f/1.8, which has a large cemented front doublet directly exposed to the elements.
Other examples are the early AUTO ZOOM ROKKOR 50-100/3.5, 80-160/3.5 and 160-500/8 which have exposed large diameter front doublets as well as a significant number of balsamed large-diameter doublets internally.


PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2022 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's another problem - some manufacturers like Canon have snap-on beauty-rings which look as if they were screw-in type!

I have a nFD 1.2/50 L here with stuck aperture, and I never managed to take off the beauty ring (which is essential for servicing the aperture). Not sure if it is a "screw-in" type or a "snap-on" type ... neither unscrewing nor snapping it off did work up to now. And since the lens itself is an perfect like-new state I don't want to apply too much force ---

S


PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2022 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have used a roll of electrical insulation tape that I unwind until it fits just inside the filter thread and use that just like the rubber tools that you can buy. I make sure the roll of tape is warm, and I prefer an old roll, so the glue is on the side of the roll. The glue grips well, I've used this with good results when the rubbers have failed.


PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2022 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lloydy wrote:
I have used a roll of electrical insulation tape that I unwind until it fits just inside the filter thread and use that just like the rubber tools that you can buy. I make sure the roll of tape is warm, and I prefer an old roll, so the glue is on the side of the roll. The glue grips well, I've used this with good results when the rubbers have failed.


Interesting idea, because any glue staining from electrical tape cleans up real easy with some IPA.

I must keep this trick in mind when my rubber tools are failing.

Like 1 small Thank you!