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Jupiter-3 50/1.5 all-makes
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 12:14 am    Post subject: Jupiter-3 50/1.5 all-makes Reply with quote
A very early 1950 KMZ Jupiter-3 5cm F1.5, on the M Monochrom. This lens required the rear group to be moved out, and the optics module to be remounted in a new focus mount. Well worth the effort, this lens is sharper than my Nikkor 5cm F1.4.

Wide-Open, at close-focus of 0.8m. The focus mount is modified.



mid-range, also F1.5.



I've assembled 4 generations of J-3, German glass KMZ, Russian Glass 1956 KMZ, 1963 ZOMZ, and 1984 Valdai. Will post some shots with each, taken on the Leica's.


PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 1:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Second photo is nice! Is it L39 or Kiev mount version? Also is it J-3 or Zorkiy (german glass)?
KMZ made J-3 from 1951 to 1956 for Kiev and Zorki.

EDIT : Ok, I just read the other topik, no need to answer Very Happy


PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 5:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Nice ones Brian, especially seeing your daughter grown up so much!
You got a Monochrom?? Congrats!!


PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
kds315* wrote:
Nice ones Brian, especially seeing your daughter grown up so much!
You got a Monochrom?? Congrats!!


Thankyou, Klaus. I tell people that the M Monochrom is only the second Monochrome Digital Camera that I've bought in 20 years... The Kodak DCS200ir being the first. 20 years ago I called Kodak to make that one. 3.5yrs ago, I called the same Division at Kodak to ask about a Monochrome M9. One engineer remembered me from the first time I called. I paid for the M9 and M Monochrom by selling gear, mostly manual focus lenses for Leica, and ones that I custom converted to Leica.



This is with a 1956 KMZ J-3, wide-open. Probably one of the last made by KMZ, before handing over production to ZOMZ. I also have a 1956 ZOMZ J-3, in Contax/Kiev mount. The KMZ is better, it took a year or two for ZOMZ to get it right.

Also at F1.5,



and at F4.



Manassas Battlefield, statue of Stonewall Jackson. When Jackson stood like a "Stonewall", he was in between two lines of artillary.


PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
WOW, quite a story "have them make one for me" - impressive, to say the least!


PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Wow! M9 and M Monochrom! Congratulations! Fantastic gear!


PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
MMtS


PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2013 12:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
kds315* wrote:
WOW, quite a story "have them make one for me" - impressive, to say the least!


It was funny- by 1992, I had over 10 years of experience with working with Digital IR sensors in the Research Lab. I wrote the data acquisition, image processing, and image display code. All FORTRAN and Assembly. The Kodak DCS200ir was the first "Store Bought" digital camera. $12,400 for the body alone- 1.6MPixels. The Kodak engineer laughed that I wanted them to undo years of work to make digital look more like film.

The M9 and M Monochrom- I even told my wife how much they cost! I paid for them by selling gear, mostly lenses. Manual Focus lenses: Better than the stock market.


PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2013 12:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
1963 ZOMZ Jupiter-3, wide-open on the M9.



and at F4:



PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 11:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
1984 Valdai, wide-open and close-up, on the Leica M9. This lens required a major rebuild, including resetting the helical in the mount.



The rebuild is here:

http://www.leicaplace.com/f13/valdai-1984-black-jupiter-3-adaptation-test-199/


PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
A double post followed by a triple post, you're on a roll. Laughing

I was wondering about the shimming of the elements, what signs do you see that tells you a lens needs it, and what do you use for shims?
The reason I ask is that I have a Topcor RE 28/2.8 that is just not sharp at infinity, at closer distances its better, but no where where I'd expect a Topcor to perform.

Thanks for posting about the J3's Brian, a KMZ is on my list to get.


PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Lightshow wrote:
A double post followed by a triple post, you're on a roll. Laughing

I was wondering about the shimming of the elements, what signs do you see that tells you a lens needs it, and what do you use for shims?
The reason I ask is that I have a Topcor RE 28/2.8 that is just not sharp at infinity, at closer distances its better, but no where where I'd expect a Topcor to perform.

Thanks for posting about the J3's Brian, a KMZ is on my list to get.


The site was really slow last night, got a perpetual "waiting". I do not see a Delete function for the post, so I edited them.

Making shims- wide ones, 1mm+, I use an old tubular tripod and a pipe cutter, polish down to the correct thickness. Thin- use kitchen aluminum foil, copper tape, vacuum seal from coffee cans.

The KMZ: The lens could not be calibrated to the rangefinder across range. This means the focal length was wrong. Also- the field curvature was insane. I moved the rear triplet out until I could do a two-point calibration, 1M and infinity.

Documented here:

http://aperturepriority.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Jupiter-3-Focal-Length-Adjustment.pdf


PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Wow, a J3 collector, Have you compared J3 to Leica glass?
I use J3 on NEX, its lovely combo. But M9+J3 is Rock!


PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 12:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Most of my Leica lenses are older, classic 1930s through 1950s. The Leica lenses are lower-contrast, better corrected. The Jupiters are classic Zeiss designs: speed and contrast, who cares about flatness of field in a 3D world...


http://www.the.me/unique-blend-of-compactness-super-speed-and-perfect-imperfections-1930s-sonnar-lenses-on-the-leica-m9-and-m-monochrom/

I've compared the J-3 against the wartime Zeiss 5cm F1.5 and Nikkor 5cm F1.4. A good Jupiter-3 holds it's own. Same with the J-8, compares well with the Nikkor 5cm F2 and Zeiss 5cm F2. I will be writing a similar article for the Jupiters, similar to the one about the Zeiss lenses.


PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 4:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I'm not too worried about RF accuracy since I'm using a NEX-7.
So shimming out the rear triplet only effects the focal length? I really should try some experiments one of these days on a cheap lens, like my Industar 61.
And thanks for the tips on shimming.

Have you tried a Helios 103? I find mine to be very sharp, and a nice rendering, the biggest downsides are that it's not the most robust build quality, and its only available in Contax Rf.


PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 9:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Lightshow wrote:
I'm not too worried about RF accuracy since I'm using a NEX-7.
So shimming out the rear triplet only effects the focal length? I really should try some experiments one of these days on a cheap lens, like my Industar 61.
And thanks for the tips on shimming.

Have you tried a Helios 103? I find mine to be very sharp, and a nice rendering, the biggest downsides are that it's not the most robust build quality, and its only available in Contax Rf.


Helios-103, very good classic Planar. I have one shimmed for a Nikon S-Mount, one for Contax. I need to put up a comparison on using a Black Marker on the aperture blades. I made One into an RF coupled leica mount for a friend.


PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 10:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
http://nikoneers.yuku.com/topic/394/Helios103-Modified-for-the-Nikon?page=1

I found the old thread with the Helios and Menopta examples, modified for the Nikon S-Mount. Also posted are some example shots taken before and after painting the aperture blades to reduce flare.
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