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50mm: AF Nikkor 1.8; SMC Pentax-A 1.7; Super-Takumar 1.4
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 12:35 am    Post subject: 50mm: AF Nikkor 1.8; SMC Pentax-A 1.7; Super-Takumar 1.4 Reply with quote

Just tested for low-light performance 3 lenses in focal length of 50mm, wide open, hand-held, lightning just desktop lamp pointed towards subject (about 70cm away):
Wondering about yellowish appearance of Super-Takumar on my monitor or maybe it is due to age of the lens or it is super takumar rendering...

1. SMC Pentax-A F1.7


2. Nikon AF Nikkor F1.8


3. Super-Takumar F1.4


-----------------------------------------------

1. SMC Pentax-A F1.7 100% Crop


2. Nikon AF Nikkor F1.8 100% Crop


3. Super-Takumar F1.4 100% Crop


PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 12:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Again, such 'tests' are of little value without a full-frame test chart. It's difficult to achieve perfect focus.


PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 7:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oreste wrote:
Again, such 'tests' are of little value without a full-frame test chart. It's difficult to achieve perfect focus.

They're just the user's samples. If you don't like them, then don't look.


PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oreste wrote:
Again, such 'tests' are of little value without a full-frame test chart. It's difficult to achieve perfect focus.


True, but at the end of the day people don't shoot to full frame test charts, but to random subjects in random conditions for example this low light handheld one, it might not be helpful for you or for me, but it doesn't hurt either.

About the pictures, Oreste is right the focus is not spot on and also the distance from you and the subject seems different between lenses, would be better if you use a tripod or at least support your camera in the same position for this kind of "comparisons" between your lenses. Being also different aperture you can also make another set using same aperture on all of them (f/4 maybe) and see how they behave in equal conditions.

About the lenses, i haven't used the pentax A but i have the nikon and the takumar and both are excellent. Hope you enjoy them


PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I stand to be corrected but...I believe the yellowing is common on these lenses and I think it's caused by the radioactive elements.
I have a Takumar 35/2 which was yellowing so I put it on a south-facing windowsill 6 weeks ago, the glass is slowly clearing thanks to UV light.

(if I have my facts mixed up, please correct me someone)


PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 9:45 am    Post subject: Re: 50mm: AF Nikkor 1.8; SMC Pentax-A 1.7; Super-Takumar 1.4 Reply with quote

RAART wrote:
Just tested for low-light performance 3 lenses in focal length of 50mm, wide open, hand-held, lightning just desktop lamp pointed towards subject (about 70cm away):
Wondering about yellowish appearance of Super-Takumar on my monitor or maybe it is due to age of the lens or it is super takumar rendering...

The super takumar is known to yellow over long periods of time. It can be cleared with exposure to UV light.


PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will repeat with camera mounted on tripod as well. I actually did the test to check Super-Takumar while I did some pictures and all of them had that slightly yellow tint in it, even with flash. Then I decided to check with other lenses too.

It looks like that super-tak will go to SW facing window and stay there for longer time.

In terms of Nikon I was always amazed how this lens performs. I have it since 1997, I think and it did perform excellent on F4 then F5 and F90x and now on E-PL1 too. While I am the first owner for sure I know that it wasn't abused and have UV filter on it since purchase. This one I will keep for sure, but if I find Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm F1.4 then super-tak has to go unless performance will increase magically after having some sunshine bath (too bad that winter is coming).

I was surprised about SMC Pentax performance and it looks like that it will beat even Nikon but need to check and re-check again just to be sure.

inombrable wrote:
Oreste wrote:
Again, such 'tests' are of little value without a full-frame test chart. It's difficult to achieve perfect focus.


True, but at the end of the day people don't shoot to full frame test charts, but to random subjects in random conditions for example this low light handheld one, it might not be helpful for you or for me, but it doesn't hurt either.

About the pictures, Oreste is right the focus is not spot on and also the distance from you and the subject seems different between lenses, would be better if you use a tripod or at least support your camera in the same position for this kind of "comparisons" between your lenses. Being also different aperture you can also make another set using same aperture on all of them (f/4 maybe) and see how they behave in equal conditions.

About the lenses, i haven't used the pentax A but i have the nikon and the takumar and both are excellent. Hope you enjoy them


PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RAART wrote:
I will repeat with camera mounted on tripod as well. I actually did the test to check Super-Takumar while I did some pictures and all of them had that slightly yellow tint in it, even with flash. Then I decided to check with other lenses too.

It looks like that super-tak will go to SW facing window and stay there for longer time.

In terms of Nikon I was always amazed how this lens performs. I have it since 1997, I think and it did perform excellent on F4 then F5 and F90x and now on E-PL1 too. While I am the first owner for sure I know that it wasn't abused and have UV filter on it since purchase. This one I will keep for sure, but if I find Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm F1.4 then super-tak has to go unless performance will increase magically after having some sunshine bath (too bad that winter is coming).

I was surprised about SMC Pentax performance and it looks like that it will beat even Nikon but need to check and re-check again just to be sure.

inombrable wrote:
Oreste wrote:
Again, such 'tests' are of little value without a full-frame test chart. It's difficult to achieve perfect focus.


True, but at the end of the day people don't shoot to full frame test charts, but to random subjects in random conditions for example this low light handheld one, it might not be helpful for you or for me, but it doesn't hurt either.

About the pictures, Oreste is right the focus is not spot on and also the distance from you and the subject seems different between lenses, would be better if you use a tripod or at least support your camera in the same position for this kind of "comparisons" between your lenses. Being also different aperture you can also make another set using same aperture on all of them (f/4 maybe) and see how they behave in equal conditions.

About the lenses, i haven't used the pentax A but i have the nikon and the takumar and both are excellent. Hope you enjoy them


But something flat would be better (the curved surface is hard to focus on). A piece of lace perhaps?


PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 3:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

for sure it will be something and not photographic resolution chart while those ones ranging from $225 and up... up to $950 online.

BTW here it is: http://www.edmundoptics.com/testing-targets/test-targets/resolution-test-targets/i3a-iso-resolution-test-chart/2287


PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think if you use hand-held shots, there is a chance on some pictures your hand will "move" and others it will be still...
If you do this again, try with a tripod, same f-stops/ISO settings - I think that will be good to compare even more!


PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 3:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was looking through my old files and will print this (attached bellow) on my (color laserjet) while my HP P2015 just get out of toner. Mad

this should be good?
and I will use HQ paper.
If anyone has testing chart in full resolution then I will appreciate if someone can email me that file (PM me for email address)



PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The yellowing of the Tak can be reversed in a few weeks of sunshine, or in a couple of days with a UV blacklight. I see you're a fellow Canuck, this is the cheap one I bought and it worked well - http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp;jsessionid=QhShqr4LsNz2MXhCwcjP9GD87wGvzQTJmGftbD2LCp2TpWNHFb08

And of course you can easily correct the white balance in post.


PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a small 15W 18" uv blacklight to clear my yellowed super taks but it takes about a month...


PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 10:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fuzzywuzzy wrote:
The yellowing of the Tak can be reversed in a few weeks of sunshine, or in a couple of days with a UV blacklight. I see you're a fellow Canuck, this is the cheap one I bought and it worked well - http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp;jsessionid=QhShqr4LsNz2MXhCwcjP9GD87wGvzQTJmGftbD2LCp2TpWNHFb08

And of course you can easily correct the white balance in post.


Yes I am... Very Happy

Hmm, the link doesn't work...


PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fuzzywuzzy wrote:
The yellowing of the Tak can be reversed in a few weeks of sunshine, or in a couple of days with a UV blacklight. I see you're a fellow Canuck, this is the cheap one I bought and it worked well - http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp;jsessionid=QhShqr4LsNz2MXhCwcjP9GD87wGvzQTJmGftbD2LCp2TpWNHFb08

And of course you can easily correct the white balance in post.


Did you mean this one: http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524443255220&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396672815&bmUID=1352329923304


PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 3:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah its kinda impossible to be sure of "sharpness" with handheld shots. you dealing with such thin focus points after all.

What is fun is the colour difference.. providing you didn't set it to auto? ..

I like the yellowing Wink well i like warm images. i find myself reaching for the cloud setting more often then not, Yellow taks (my 55 f1.8 is in high rotation) looks like the bottom of a larger bottle. Love it Razz


PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 8:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tromboads wrote:
Yellow taks (my 55 f1.8 is in high rotation)

Dunno what you mean there tromboads. None of the 1.8/55 versions have thoriated glass elements, and they don't yellow like the 1.4/50 or 2/35.

I de-yellowed my 1.4/50 S-Tak on the window cill, with our cloudy skies and short days it took from November till March. That was 5 years ago and the yellow doesn't return if light can get in the lens. I store mine in a clear plastic lens box meant for the Mir-1. It would definitely work faster in sunny Melbourne, but I'd definitely buy a lamp if I had to do it again.


PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

peterqd wrote:
tromboads wrote:
Yellow taks (my 55 f1.8 is in high rotation)

Dunno what you mean there tromboads. None of the 1.8/55 versions have thoriated glass elements, and they don't yellow like the 1.4/50 or 2/35.

I de-yellowed my 1.4/50 S-Tak on the window cill, with our cloudy skies and short days it took from November till March. That was 5 years ago and the yellow doesn't return if light can get in the lens. I store mine in a clear plastic lens box meant for the Mir-1. It would definitely work faster in sunny Melbourne, but I'd definitely buy a lamp if I had to do it again.



+1
2 summer months on the window to cure my 1.4/50.
3 weeks (only some hours a day) with a strong UV lamp.


PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RAART wrote:
fuzzywuzzy wrote:
The yellowing of the Tak can be reversed in a few weeks of sunshine, or in a couple of days with a UV blacklight. I see you're a fellow Canuck, this is the cheap one I bought and it worked well - http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp;jsessionid=QhShqr4LsNz2MXhCwcjP9GD87wGvzQTJmGftbD2LCp2TpWNHFb08

And of course you can easily correct the white balance in post.


Did you mean this one: http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524443255220&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396672815&bmUID=1352329923304


That's the one, not sure what happened to link Embarassed Rolling Eyes


PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took a look at those UV lights or bulbs and find out that they have 3 different ones Rolling Eyes UV-A; UV-B; UV-C.

Right now I am really confused. Which one is the most suitable one?



PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My UV lamp has its emission peak at 350 nm wavelenght, and it worked fine.


PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 2:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Dunno what you mean there tromboads. None of the 1.8/55 versions have thoriated glass elements, and they don't yellow like the 1.4/50 or 2/35.


Really?? :s it was only the 50mm 1.4's and the 35mm f2's that had thorium?

It occurs to me that I may have never seen a yellow tak then. I must have been confusing the yellowish reflecting the older taks seem to give off with this effect of thorium.

Ie. my "yellow" 55mm Tak 1.8, 50mm Tak 1.4 down front, and a k55 1.8 with a M 28mm up top to compare.. and then switched so the light isn't a variable Razz





PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The yellowing deriving from thoriated glass can be seen when looking something white through the lens.
The yellow you see being reflected from the lens is normal, as far as I know, and doesn't need cure.


PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aanything wrote:
The yellowing deriving from thoriated glass can be seen when looking something white through the lens.
The yellow you see being reflected from the lens is normal, as far as I know, and doesn't need cure.

yes, there seems to be confusion here with the color of the coatings vs. yellowing of the glass. When the glass yellows, it looks
yellowish when you look THRU the lens at a white subject.


PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many thanks for clearing that up Smile