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dnas
Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 488 Location: Japan
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Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2012 10:48 pm Post subject: |
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dnas wrote:
I didn't think I was shouting, as peterqd himself used capital letters to emphasis certain words ("WANT" and "FORCED"), and so I used exactly the same form of emphasis.
What RAART said is exactly what I meant. All I am saying is that if people don't use F1.4 on principle, but stop down to say, F1.8 or F2.0, then they should just buy a an F1.8 lens. Nobody is forcing them to buy an F1.4 lens.
Personally, using a F1.4 lens at F1.4 is the reason you buy one: to be able to use it not only when you NEED to, but when you WANT to be creative with DOF, bokeh and in low light. |
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tromboads
Joined: 29 May 2012 Posts: 1782 Location: Melbourne AU
Expire: 2015-10-01
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Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 12:00 am Post subject: |
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tromboads wrote:
so really, like always, the problem exists in tight wads like ourselves expecting these 40, 50yr old lens to be sharper then a bees dick.
f1.4 is sharp, you just need to change what your idea of sharp is |
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skida
Joined: 02 Mar 2012 Posts: 1826 Location: North East England
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Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 12:53 am Post subject: |
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skida wrote:
dnas wrote: |
Personally, using a F1.4 lens at F1.4 is the reason you buy one: to be able to use it not only when you NEED to, but when you WANT to be creative with DOF, bokeh and in low light. |
Personally, I buy a lens because I can afford it, it fits one of my systems and I haven't got something similar, and it is the right price. I can be creative in all different ways that please me. I very rarely, if ever use the lens wide open (but I don't dismiss the possibility that I may want to some day).
I have owned fast motorbikes capable of 160mph+, but I have never felt the need to go flat out on one, preferring to enjoy the acceleration and handling (and fuel economy).
Everyone here has their own way of enjoying photography; there is no right or wrong way to use a lens as long as the results please you. As an amateur, hobby photographer, I only have to please myself. |
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RAART
Joined: 10 Oct 2012 Posts: 499 Location: Oakville, ON, Canada
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Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 5:01 am Post subject: |
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RAART wrote:
skida wrote: |
I have owned fast motorbikes capable of 160mph+, but I have never felt the need to go flat out on one, preferring to enjoy the acceleration and handling (and fuel economy). |
Personally I have owned a car capable of 180mph+ and I drove it to full potential... Live your life to the fullest... _________________
Camera: Pentax K3
FOR SALE:
Do you have Pentax-A or F or FA primes and like to trade?
Here is the list what I have to trade/sale:
Primes: - Kiron 28mm f2 (C/Y); Vivitar 28mm f2.5 Auto (FD); Minolta MD 50mm f2 (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 35mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 135mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3);
Zoom Lenses:
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10462 Location: California
Expire: 2021-06-22
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Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 6:08 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Need a Nocton f/1.0 or possibly a f/0.75 lens specially made for dim movie sets?
Does the Canon FD lens have the SSC coatings? Like was stated, the S-M-C and SMC versions of the Takumar exhibit more contrast & color saturation, which can appear as increased sharpness.
So the Tak is soft at f/1.4, so are other f/1.4 lenses -- to what lens is it being compared to say you expect it would be sharper? _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony A7Rii, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Lenses:
Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200
Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300
Macro-Takumar 1:4/50
Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm
Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element),
Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17
Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500
Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100
Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100
SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
Other lenses:
Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51BB), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto
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RAART
Joined: 10 Oct 2012 Posts: 499 Location: Oakville, ON, Canada
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Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 8:42 am Post subject: |
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RAART wrote:
the lens I have it does have SSC or SC. It is the latest FD without breech lock.
For movies I will still use Pentax while IMO it is enough light sensitive and if needed I will have that dreamy look of the Pentax lens also I love how it renders colors and sharpness is good enough. I want to have another SMC Takumar F1.4 to see if it is better then this one I have currently.
I do have an bid running on ebay for Minolta MD Rokkor-x F1.2 and lets see if I will get it.
Honestly I always loved Nikon and Olympus lenses and those ones are always my favorite followed by Pentax and then other ones incl. Canon but it looks like that Canon FD series have few surprises for me there...
Zeiss and Leica I never purchased while I had always Nikon gear but I think that I had few Voigtlaender's too. (sold all my Nikon gear prior relocation to Canada and keept just one body and 3 lenses)
Anyway the Nokton looks nice but it looks like that is good only for movies. I almost pulled the trigger on that one but in the end decided not to do while I mostly take photos and in rare occasions movies... _________________
Camera: Pentax K3
FOR SALE:
Do you have Pentax-A or F or FA primes and like to trade?
Here is the list what I have to trade/sale:
Primes: - Kiron 28mm f2 (C/Y); Vivitar 28mm f2.5 Auto (FD); Minolta MD 50mm f2 (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 35mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 135mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3);
Zoom Lenses:
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 3693 Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 8:54 am Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
RAART wrote: |
skida wrote: |
I have owned fast motorbikes capable of 160mph+, but I have never felt the need to go flat out on one, preferring to enjoy the acceleration and handling (and fuel economy). |
Personally I have owned a car capable of 180mph+ and I drove it to full potential... Live your life to the fullest... |
The analogy is a bit different. You cannot drive 180mph more then just for very limited period of time. While shooting wide-open, you can do that most of the time. I do. Even closed down one stop doesn't interest me . I don't think i live my life more intense then those shooting F8.0 . _________________ ---------------------------------
The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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RAART
Joined: 10 Oct 2012 Posts: 499 Location: Oakville, ON, Canada
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Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 9:15 am Post subject: |
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RAART wrote:
Pancolart wrote: |
RAART wrote: |
skida wrote: |
I have owned fast motorbikes capable of 160mph+, but I have never felt the need to go flat out on one, preferring to enjoy the acceleration and handling (and fuel economy). |
Personally I have owned a car capable of 180mph+ and I drove it to full potential... Live your life to the fullest... |
The analogy is a bit different. You cannot drive 180mph more then just for very limited period of time. While shooting wide-open, you can do that most of the time. I do. Even closed down one stop doesn't interest me . I don't think i live my life more intense then those shooting F8.0 . |
I did when I was younger... Right now just sometimes and later "kar bo, pa bo..." _________________
Camera: Pentax K3
FOR SALE:
Do you have Pentax-A or F or FA primes and like to trade?
Here is the list what I have to trade/sale:
Primes: - Kiron 28mm f2 (C/Y); Vivitar 28mm f2.5 Auto (FD); Minolta MD 50mm f2 (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 35mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 135mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3);
Zoom Lenses:
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sonyrokkor
Joined: 24 Sep 2012 Posts: 222 Location: Perù, Argentina, Chile, Uruguay
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Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 1:29 pm Post subject: |
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sonyrokkor wrote:
How do I live my life and use a F/1,4 lens wide open. I can't find the relation, but each one........
Why the F/1,4 lenses were made in the old age? Well, For use them in low light. The professional of that time did it. Time after that lenses
objects of status. So they were used to other things for what they were made: low light.
So, into the compromise of a high resolution at medium apertures or at wide open, the first won.
Today, some lenses like the samsung 1,4/85 have a high resolujtion wide open and close the aperure ring don't give us a lot of better
resolution. |
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skida
Joined: 02 Mar 2012 Posts: 1826 Location: North East England
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Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 2:39 pm Post subject: |
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skida wrote:
I used the bike analogy because I see similarities:
I haven't ridden flat out, but it is there if I ever need it. Maybe it is more important that other bikers look and say "Wow! He has a 160mph bike!" |
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hifisapi
Joined: 25 Sep 2012 Posts: 941 Location: USA
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Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 2:42 pm Post subject: |
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hifisapi wrote:
RAART wrote: |
IMO his logic is perfectly fine, otherwise why people should purchase fast lens or please explain why you purchased F1.4 lens if you don't use it? For shallow depth of field? Everyone knows that fast lenses are generally made for low-light condition/photography.
Do you agree with this? |
Some people buy fast lenses for brighter viewfinder and ease of focus and composition, not to actually shoot with them wide open. _________________ ===========
ACQUIRED OVER 30 YEARS:
Cameras: DSLR=Pentax istDS FILM=Pentax SP, SP-F, ESII, SP1000, KX, K2
Lenses : Pentax M42 = Super Multi Coated Takumars 50/1.4 55/1.8 100/4-BELLOWS 500/4.5 1000/8 135-600/6.7 Pentax PK= SMC Pentax-Ks K17/4-FF Fisheye K18/3.5 K20/4 K24/3.5 K28/3.5 K28/2 K35/3.5 K35/2 K50/1.2 K50/1.4K 50/4-MACROK 55/1.8 K85/1.8 K100/4-MACRO K100/4-BELLOWS K105/2.8 K120/2.8 K135/3.5 K135/2.5 K150/4 K200/4 K400/5.6 K45-125/4K 85-210/4.5 Pentax PKM = SMC Pentax-M M40/2.8-Pancake M50/1.4 M75-150/4 M80-200/4.5 Pentax PKA= SMC Pentax-A A15/3.5 A50/2.8-MACRO A28/2 A35/2 A50/1.4 A135/2.8 A200/4 A*300/4 A35-105/3.5 A24-50/4 A70-210/4 TAMRON AD2= SP80-200/2.8 SP180/2.5 TOKINA AT-X PK= ATX28-85/3.5-4.5 ATX35-70/2.8 ATX60-120/2.8 ATX80-200/2.8 ATX100-300/4 ATX90/2.5 MACRO KIRON-LESTER DINE PK = 105/2.8-MACRO VIVITAR PK = 135/2.8-MACRO 28-85/4 NOFLEXAR AUTOBELLOWS PK = 60/4 105/4 |
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RAART
Joined: 10 Oct 2012 Posts: 499 Location: Oakville, ON, Canada
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Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 3:27 pm Post subject: |
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RAART wrote:
Yes I agree that you can get those lenses to have brighter viewfinder but did manufacturer made them for brighter viewfinder or go back to 1994 and say for what did you use your fast lens at that time? _________________
Camera: Pentax K3
FOR SALE:
Do you have Pentax-A or F or FA primes and like to trade?
Here is the list what I have to trade/sale:
Primes: - Kiron 28mm f2 (C/Y); Vivitar 28mm f2.5 Auto (FD); Minolta MD 50mm f2 (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 35mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 135mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3);
Zoom Lenses:
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RAART
Joined: 10 Oct 2012 Posts: 499 Location: Oakville, ON, Canada
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Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 3:43 pm Post subject: |
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RAART wrote:
also I did test another 50's I have and the best I like to use in low-light situation is SMC Pentax-A 1.7 as well as Canon FD 1.8
Super-Takumar 1.4 will be used for movies and whenever I need that takumar touch in terms of color rendering...
SMC Pentax-A has very neutral color rendering, Canon FD slightly warmer very similar to Nikon AF 1.8 (same optical as Ai and non-Ai).
Just to mention that Canon for some reason is best to get focus accurate and when is happen the liveview screen changes slightly with some color shifting. I never had experience this like with that lens... _________________
Camera: Pentax K3
FOR SALE:
Do you have Pentax-A or F or FA primes and like to trade?
Here is the list what I have to trade/sale:
Primes: - Kiron 28mm f2 (C/Y); Vivitar 28mm f2.5 Auto (FD); Minolta MD 50mm f2 (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 35mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 135mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3);
Zoom Lenses:
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 7:41 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
dnas wrote: |
All I am saying is that if people don't use F1.4 on principle, but stop down to say, F1.8 or F2.0, then they should just buy a an F1.8 lens. Nobody is forcing them to buy an F1.4 lens. |
You don't understand me. Any lens gives better results when it is stopped down - generally the optimum point is midway between wide open and fully stopped down, but even one stop makes a difference. A 1.4 lens stopped down to 1.8 is improved - a 1.8 lens wide open is not improved.
I try to take all my pictures at f5.6 or f8 unless I want a large or small depth of field. Only if the light is very challenging will I open or close the aperture setting, and only then after adjusting the ISO and the shutter speed. Using a 1.4 lens is still very useful for me, for two reasons: it gives me more latitude to open the aperture should I need to, and it gives a brighter image in the viewfinder. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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RAART
Joined: 10 Oct 2012 Posts: 499 Location: Oakville, ON, Canada
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Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2012 12:29 am Post subject: |
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RAART wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
Any lens gives better results when it is stopped down - generally the optimum point is midway between wide open and fully stopped down, but even one stop makes a difference. A 1.4 lens stopped down to 1.8 is improved - a 1.8 lens wide open is not improved.
I try to take all my pictures at f5.6 or f8 unless I want a large or small depth of field. Only if the light is very challenging will I open or close the aperture setting, and only then after adjusting the ISO and the shutter speed. Using a 1.4 lens is still very useful for me, for two reasons: it gives me more latitude to open the aperture should I need to, and it gives a brighter image in the viewfinder. |
This is very true... _________________
Camera: Pentax K3
FOR SALE:
Do you have Pentax-A or F or FA primes and like to trade?
Here is the list what I have to trade/sale:
Primes: - Kiron 28mm f2 (C/Y); Vivitar 28mm f2.5 Auto (FD); Minolta MD 50mm f2 (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 35mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 135mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3);
Zoom Lenses:
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