DALLMEYER WIDE ANGLE ANASTIGMAT 4 1/4" F/6.5

[Farside]

Just scored this little beauty.

According to what I can find it's acceptably sharp from f:11 upwards and the f:6.5 is purely for focusing, which is quite common on lenses of that era.
I believe it's a Dialyte type, so has some inherent weakness and drawbacks, but the price wasn't too bad and if I work within its limitations, results should be ok.

It works out at 108mm, which on 4x5 is the equivalent of 35mm w/a on 35mm format.




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Dave - Moderator
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If I wanted soot and whitewash I'd be a chimney sweep and house painter.
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[iangreenhalgh1]

Aha, you outbid me on that one.
_________________
'The question I would really consider (especially if an amateur and on a budget) is whether or not anyone (including yourself, of course) can tell the difference in any situation for which you will use the lens...and if they can, why are they burying their noses in your prints hard enough to tell the difference instead of responding to the prints emotionally and thinking about what they might mean?' - 2F/2F on apug.org

Digital: Sony NEX-3, Samsung NX100, Canon EOS 450d
35mm SLR: Konica FT-1, Konica FC-1, Konica Autoreflex T, Carena SRH760, Exakta RTL1000, Canon EOS 10qd
35mm VF: Olympus Stylus, Konica C35, Konica A4, Konica MG, Konica MT-9, Ricoh FF-9, Ricoh AF-80
35mm RF: Zorki 6, Kiev II, Kiev IV, Contax IIIa, CZJ Werra III,
Medium format: Franka Rolfix, Mess Ikonta 524/16, Voigtlander Bessa with Skopar 3.5/105, Voigtlander Bessa with Voigtar 3.5/105, Kiev 6C, Century Graphic 23, Ensign Selfix 820, Kershaw 450
MF lenses: Schneider Angulon 6.5/68, Componon-S 5.6/100, C-Claron 4.5/135, Xenar 3.5/105, Mamiya C 2.8/45, Mamiya 2.8/80, CZJ Flektogon 4/50, Biometar 2.8/80, Zodiac 3.5/30, Tominon 4.5/135, Pullin Pulnar 2.8/100
Large Format: Ernemann HEAG Series VII version II 9x12 with Kodak Anastigmat 6.3/170
Konica Hexanons 4/21, 2.8/24, 3.5/28, 2.8/35, 1.8/40, 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 1.8/50, 3.2/135, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 4.5/300, 3.5-4.5/35-70, 4-4.6/28-135, 3.5/35-70, UC 3.5/45-100, 4/70-150, 4/65-135, UC 4/80-200. Hexars 3.5/28, 3.5/135, Konishiroku 2.8/35
Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.8/35, Skoparex 3.4/35, Tessar 2.8/50, Sonnar 1.5/50, Biotar 2/58, Pancolar 1.8/50, Cardinar 4/100, Zeiss-Opton Biogon 2.8/35
Meyer/Pentacons 2.8/28, Primagon 4.5/35, Trioplan 2.9/50, 1.8/50, 2.4/50, Primotar 3.5/50, Primotar 3.5/135
Topcon RE Auto Topcors 1.8/58, 3.5/135, 5.6/200
Russians: OKC1-18-1 2.8/18, OKC1-28-1 2.8/28, Jupiter-12 2.8/35, Jupiter-8 2/50, Industar-50 3.5/50, Industar-26M 2.8/50, Industar-22 3.5/50, Zenitar M2S 2/50, Helios-44-2, Jupiter-9 2/85, Jupiter-11 4/135, Tair-3C 4.5/300
Tokina 3.5/17, Nikon Auto Nikkor-N 2.8/24, Nikon Micro-Nikkor-P 3.5/55, Ross Xpress 3.5/4in, Ross Xpress 4/5in, Ross Xpress 4.5/8.5in, Wollensak APO-Raptar 10/541

[Attila]

Congrats!! Looks a rare bird!
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Attila - admin --- BUY FRESH FOMAPAN TO HELP KEEP THE FACTORY ALIVE ---
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Items on sale on Ebay

35mm: Konica A4, Konica IIIA, Konica FC-1
MF: Konica Pearl I,II,III 6x4,5 Konica Semi Pearl
Film: Foma,Kodak, Fuji DIY development C41, FOMA LQR
Scan: Epson V500, scanassist (http://www.scanassist.org)
Shutter tester: LCD tester from member vfmoto
Digital: Panasonic G1, Sony Nex-3, Samsung NX100
Lenses: Konica Hexanons,Carl Zeiss,Carl Zeiss Jena,Meyer-Optik,Minolta MD,Yashica ML,Nikon,Olympus OM
DIY E-6,C41 and B&W

[luisalegria]

This should cover 5x7 I think.
_________________
I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work.

[Farside]

[iangreenhalgh1]

What camera are you putting it on? I wanted to use it to replace the crappy lens on an ancient folder that I was going to convert to shoot panoramic 120 instead of the original postcard format.
_________________
'The question I would really consider (especially if an amateur and on a budget) is whether or not anyone (including yourself, of course) can tell the difference in any situation for which you will use the lens...and if they can, why are they burying their noses in your prints hard enough to tell the difference instead of responding to the prints emotionally and thinking about what they might mean?' - 2F/2F on apug.org

Digital: Sony NEX-3, Samsung NX100, Canon EOS 450d
35mm SLR: Konica FT-1, Konica FC-1, Konica Autoreflex T, Carena SRH760, Exakta RTL1000, Canon EOS 10qd
35mm VF: Olympus Stylus, Konica C35, Konica A4, Konica MG, Konica MT-9, Ricoh FF-9, Ricoh AF-80
35mm RF: Zorki 6, Kiev II, Kiev IV, Contax IIIa, CZJ Werra III,
Medium format: Franka Rolfix, Mess Ikonta 524/16, Voigtlander Bessa with Skopar 3.5/105, Voigtlander Bessa with Voigtar 3.5/105, Kiev 6C, Century Graphic 23, Ensign Selfix 820, Kershaw 450
MF lenses: Schneider Angulon 6.5/68, Componon-S 5.6/100, C-Claron 4.5/135, Xenar 3.5/105, Mamiya C 2.8/45, Mamiya 2.8/80, CZJ Flektogon 4/50, Biometar 2.8/80, Zodiac 3.5/30, Tominon 4.5/135, Pullin Pulnar 2.8/100
Large Format: Ernemann HEAG Series VII version II 9x12 with Kodak Anastigmat 6.3/170
Konica Hexanons 4/21, 2.8/24, 3.5/28, 2.8/35, 1.8/40, 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 1.8/50, 3.2/135, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 4.5/300, 3.5-4.5/35-70, 4-4.6/28-135, 3.5/35-70, UC 3.5/45-100, 4/70-150, 4/65-135, UC 4/80-200. Hexars 3.5/28, 3.5/135, Konishiroku 2.8/35
Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.8/35, Skoparex 3.4/35, Tessar 2.8/50, Sonnar 1.5/50, Biotar 2/58, Pancolar 1.8/50, Cardinar 4/100, Zeiss-Opton Biogon 2.8/35
Meyer/Pentacons 2.8/28, Primagon 4.5/35, Trioplan 2.9/50, 1.8/50, 2.4/50, Primotar 3.5/50, Primotar 3.5/135
Topcon RE Auto Topcors 1.8/58, 3.5/135, 5.6/200
Russians: OKC1-18-1 2.8/18, OKC1-28-1 2.8/28, Jupiter-12 2.8/35, Jupiter-8 2/50, Industar-50 3.5/50, Industar-26M 2.8/50, Industar-22 3.5/50, Zenitar M2S 2/50, Helios-44-2, Jupiter-9 2/85, Jupiter-11 4/135, Tair-3C 4.5/300
Tokina 3.5/17, Nikon Auto Nikkor-N 2.8/24, Nikon Micro-Nikkor-P 3.5/55, Ross Xpress 3.5/4in, Ross Xpress 4/5in, Ross Xpress 4.5/8.5in, Wollensak APO-Raptar 10/541

[luisalegria]

I do have a Wollensak 135 Raptar in Rapax available.
I sold it but its coming back because the buyer didn't like the condition of the front element.
I think its decent enough for use if not cosmetically ideal.
Send me a PM if you are interested.

I have some other 135's. I may have a spare Tessar in Compur available at some point, as I have to do aperture repairs on a couple of them.

If you want a cheap 135, you can find one on ebay with a bit of looking. There are usually a few there in old Compur dial-set shutters or on old plate cameras. If you are willing to accept a doppelanastigmat (4 elements airspaced, like the Rodenstock Eurynar or Steinheil Unofocal) you could get a bargain as they aren't as desirable as Tessars or Xenars. They are at least as sharp as any Tessar generally, the only problem is somewhat lower contrast. On the plus side these can often be separated and the components used independently. Some plate cameras have dual scales for that reason.

Another cheap source - look for Kodak 2A's, these have 130mm lenses, The "specials" can have nice ones, like Bausch&Lomb license made Tessars.
_________________
I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work.

[mmelvis]

Very nice find, look forward to see what you are mounting this up in.

[Farside]

[mmelvis]

A wonderful camera to attach a very fine lens, a fun project.

[luisalegria]

Oh my !

Thats quite a find !
Not common at all, and it looks like its in great shape.

Takes the regular 9x12 rail type film holders does it ?
_________________
I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work.

[Farside]

[luisalegria]

Its not all that hard to make a 9x12-4x5 adapter, though you may end up using just a portion of the 4x5 film.
Basically you get a piece of board the size of your chosen 4x5 back, cut a square hole in it 9x12 size, and screw in a pair of brass rails on the camera side to match the slots in the back. Attach a 4x5 back on the other side, and glue strips of velvet wherever they seem to be needed.

I have a couple of ready made 9x12 - 3 1/4x4 1/4 spring back adapters, there were quite a few sold in the US in the 1930's-1940's, very sturdy aluminum things. These let you use the common wooden two sided Speed Graphic holders. 3 1/4x4 1/4 really is the corresponding size to 9x12, not 4x5.
_________________
I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work.

[Farside]

I already did a conversion back for a 9x12 using an old unloved back and a Graflex spring back - it turned out ok, but I'd do it differently if I were doing it again. Turned out the 4x5 was almost fully useable as it's further back and the front standard is further back on the rails too, so as long as the coverage of the lens is good enough 4x5 is quite worthwhile.
Apart from that, I doubt I could find 3 1/4x4 1/4 these days and I really don't want to get into another size.
Hmm... turns out it's rare, but still around...
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum172/60059-3-1-4-x-4-1-4-film-availability.html
Mind you, that was three years ago.
_________________
Dave - Moderator
Camera Fiend and Biograph Operator
If I wanted soot and whitewash I'd be a chimney sweep and house painter.
The Lenses of Farside (click)

-

BUY FRESH FOMAPAN TO HELP KEEP THE FACTORY ALIVE ---
Foma Campaign topic -
http://forum.mflenses.com/foma-campaign-t55443.html
FOMAPAN on forum -
http://www.mflenses.com/fs.php?sw=Fomapan
Webshop EU
http://www.fomafoto.com/