Cyclop-M1 85mm f1.2 night vision lens long thread!

[iangreenhalgh1]

[Orio]

I think it's best to leave these photos as they are. This will never be a high contrast lens.
So better to accept it for what it is, and use it in situations that suit it best.
An example is photo #6, the flowers.
That is a good subject for this lens.

Using a collar on a chicken doesn't make a dog of it
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[iangreenhalgh1]

#6 is my fave too.

Nice saying
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'The question I would really consider (especially if an amateur and on a budget) is whether or not anyone (including yourself, of course) can tell the difference in any situation for which you will use the lens...and if they can, why are they burying their noses in your prints hard enough to tell the difference instead of responding to the prints emotionally and thinking about what they might mean?' - 2F/2F on apug.org

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MF lenses: Schneider Angulon 6.5/68, Componon-S 5.6/100, C-Claron 4.5/135, Xenar 3.5/105, Mamiya C 2.8/45, Mamiya 2.8/80, CZJ Flektogon 4/50, Biometar 2.8/80, Zodiac 3.5/30, Tominon 4.5/135, Pullin Pulnar 2.8/100
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Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.8/35, Skoparex 3.4/35, Tessar 2.8/50, Sonnar 1.5/50, Biotar 2/58, Pancolar 1.8/50, Cardinar 4/100, Zeiss-Opton Biogon 2.8/35
Meyer/Pentacons 2.8/28, Primagon 4.5/35, Trioplan 2.9/50, 1.8/50, 2.4/50, Primotar 3.5/50, Primotar 3.5/135
Topcon RE Auto Topcors 1.8/58, 3.5/135, 5.6/200
Russians: OKC1-18-1 2.8/18, OKC1-28-1 2.8/28, Jupiter-12 2.8/35, Jupiter-8 2/50, Industar-50 3.5/50, Industar-26M 2.8/50, Industar-22 3.5/50, Zenitar M2S 2/50, Helios-44-2, Jupiter-9 2/85, Jupiter-11 4/135, Tair-3C 4.5/300
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[Attila]

PP is mater of taste I am glad you all tell your opinion , I love harsh colors not muted one. I think this lens has special place on photography tool palette, but it has place for sure. A wedding photographer can use it very well in my opinion.
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[martinsmith99]

Wedding photogs that I have seen use only modern kit. I'd be surprised to see one using a Helios, let alone an unwieldy beast such as this.
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[iangreenhalgh1]

It's not an unweildy beast, it's smaller and lighter than a Helios-40. Modern zooms are hardly small either.

Attila has it right, for dreamy pictures of brides and wedding couples this would be ideal, wedding photographers are fond of this type of shot but tend to accomplish it using filters, that's what all those expensive Cromatek filters were used for.
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'The question I would really consider (especially if an amateur and on a budget) is whether or not anyone (including yourself, of course) can tell the difference in any situation for which you will use the lens...and if they can, why are they burying their noses in your prints hard enough to tell the difference instead of responding to the prints emotionally and thinking about what they might mean?' - 2F/2F on apug.org

Digital: Sony NEX-3, Samsung NX100, Canon EOS 450d
35mm SLR: Konica FT-1, Konica FC-1, Konica Autoreflex T, Carena SRH760, Exakta RTL1000, Canon EOS 10qd
35mm VF: Olympus Stylus, Konica C35, Konica A4, Konica MG, Konica MT-9, Ricoh FF-9, Ricoh AF-80
35mm RF: Zorki 6, Kiev II, Kiev IV, Contax IIIa, CZJ Werra III,
Medium format: Franka Rolfix, Mess Ikonta 524/16, Voigtlander Bessa with Skopar 3.5/105, Voigtlander Bessa with Voigtar 3.5/105, Kiev 6C, Century Graphic 23, Ensign Selfix 820, Kershaw 450
MF lenses: Schneider Angulon 6.5/68, Componon-S 5.6/100, C-Claron 4.5/135, Xenar 3.5/105, Mamiya C 2.8/45, Mamiya 2.8/80, CZJ Flektogon 4/50, Biometar 2.8/80, Zodiac 3.5/30, Tominon 4.5/135, Pullin Pulnar 2.8/100
Large Format: Ernemann HEAG Series VII version II 9x12 with Kodak Anastigmat 6.3/170
Konica Hexanons 4/21, 2.8/24, 3.5/28, 2.8/35, 1.8/40, 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 1.8/50, 3.2/135, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 4.5/300, 3.5-4.5/35-70, 4-4.6/28-135, 3.5/35-70, UC 3.5/45-100, 4/70-150, 4/65-135, UC 4/80-200. Hexars 3.5/28, 3.5/135, Konishiroku 2.8/35
Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.8/35, Skoparex 3.4/35, Tessar 2.8/50, Sonnar 1.5/50, Biotar 2/58, Pancolar 1.8/50, Cardinar 4/100, Zeiss-Opton Biogon 2.8/35
Meyer/Pentacons 2.8/28, Primagon 4.5/35, Trioplan 2.9/50, 1.8/50, 2.4/50, Primotar 3.5/50, Primotar 3.5/135
Topcon RE Auto Topcors 1.8/58, 3.5/135, 5.6/200
Russians: OKC1-18-1 2.8/18, OKC1-28-1 2.8/28, Jupiter-12 2.8/35, Jupiter-8 2/50, Industar-50 3.5/50, Industar-26M 2.8/50, Industar-22 3.5/50, Zenitar M2S 2/50, Helios-44-2, Jupiter-9 2/85, Jupiter-11 4/135, Tair-3C 4.5/300
Tokina 3.5/17, Nikon Auto Nikkor-N 2.8/24, Nikon Micro-Nikkor-P 3.5/55, Ross Xpress 3.5/4in, Ross Xpress 4/5in, Ross Xpress 4.5/8.5in, Wollensak APO-Raptar 10/541

[Attila]

[hoanpham]

I like the outcome of this lens.
Original is ok, may be too low contrast. The PP version might have to much color.

The results look like field curvature - sharp in the center. The lens can be difficult to use. I am not sure if I would bring this lens to a wedding. If that's the case, it would be the last lens for few more artistic shots to increase wow factor.

[Attila]

[martinsmith99]

[Pancolart]

Come on guys don't loose credibility claiming this is any better then cheapest lens-baby with two plastic elements. Or even one. If there is good, there has to be bad.
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[Vic Tor]

Hello everybody! I'm new here on this great site (although I'm visiting it already quite long) and I've just registered here to get some help to my Cyclop 85 1,2. According to your opinion I have the "unusable" version of Cyclop M1 with that long rear-lens protrusion:

[Olivier]

Your link doesn't work due to antispam measures.

I post the link of the italian forum :

http://www.canonclubitalia.com/public/forum/85mm-f-1-2-Russo-su-corpi-Canon-t148296.html

About the sawing solution.
It seems infinity is kept but min focusing distance is about 5 meters. To take his photos he had to add macro extension tubes.
I'm wondering wether it could be possible or not to cement the rear lens into the sawed back hole ?
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[Vic Tor]

Thank You, I will delete the link in my previous post.

Yes it is possible to take the lens out the rear-protrusion and if you're mechanically minded to fix it on the back hole. But is it just so easy? It will have than different optical distanse to the front lens-group.

Anyway, I wonder why it works without rear-lens at all!? What is it otherwise good for? Is it just for any distortion correction or something like this?

Sorry for perhaps stupid questions, I have really no clue about how optical systems in objectives are working.

[Attila]

My lens did work well without rear-protrusion I could simple screw it off, working distance was long enough for full size human portrait, infinity is irrelevant with a fast lens like this. If I need infinity I use another photographic lens,keep in mind this lens made for night vision devices not for photography. I think rear-protrusion purpose only to get better usage for a night vision device.
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Items on sale on Ebay

35mm: Konica A4, Konica IIIA, Konica FC-1
MF: Konica Pearl I,II,III 6x4,5 Konica Semi Pearl
Film: Foma,Kodak, Fuji DIY development C41, FOMA LQR
Scan: Epson V500, scanassist (http://www.scanassist.org)
Shutter tester: LCD tester from member vfmoto
Digital: Panasonic G1, Sony Nex-3, Samsung NX100
Lenses: Konica Hexanons,Carl Zeiss,Carl Zeiss Jena,Meyer-Optik,Minolta MD,Yashica ML,Nikon,Olympus OM
DIY E-6,C41 and B&W