best/cheapest film body for Exakta lenses?

[fuzzywuzzy]

The Bug Auction Site has been kind to me, I've acquired a couple of nice Zeiss Jenna Exakta mount lenses for not much money.

Flek 25/4 - $100 including another lens
Sonnar 135/4 - $50

They're both "auto" lenses with the huge knob sticking out the side. I knew they won't mount on my Canon but couldn't resist those prices.

I'm saving up for a NEX digital body, but wouldn't it be nice to use that 25mm on full frame?

Exakta bodies seem expensive, and the curtains seem to be a problem. How much should I expect to pay for a functional Exakta body? (mechanically reliable, don't care about metering)

Adapters apparently exist for Minolta and Canon FD and Konica. Availability seems spotty and prices are high, but the bodies are dirt cheap.

Any advice?

I'm in no rush, once I decide on a plan I'm perfectly happy to bargain hunt over a period of months.
_________________
I welcome C&C, editing my pics and reposting them on the forum is fine.
NEX-F3
~~~~~~~~~
CZJ Sonnar 135/4, Biotar 58/2, Pancolar 50/2, Tessar 50/2.8, Flek 35/2.8, Flek 25/4
Super Takumar 135/2.5, 135/3.5, 100/4 bellows, 50/1.4, 28/3.5
Helios 58/2, 3M-5A 500/8
Vivitar Series 1 70-210 - - - - - - - - Nikkor 200/4
Rikenon 28/2.8 - - - - - - - - Zeiss 50/1.7 Planar
PB 50/2.4, 135/2.8
Yashica 50/1.9, 28/2.8, 135/2.8

[Minolfan]

You can choose for an Exakta RTL1000. Good metal (Praktica) shutter. Don't go for the metering prism, not working or expensive and unpleasant in use.
Exakta Varex IIb or VX1000 are fun to use if they work. But some risk of shutter problems or detoriated curtains, that is true.
I am searching a long time for a Exakta > MD adapter, scarce and expensive if they show up.

[luisalegria]

Difficult problem.
I have had several Exaktas.
The earlier ones have an all-fabric shutter that seems to last better than the later rubberized one on the VX2a's and later.
Of course any Exakta could have a rubberized shutter if they have been serviced at some point.
The other problem with old Exaktas, and this is universal, is that the bearings need to be lubricated.
My mint VXIIb has a perfect curtain but is now suffering from a delubricated "squawk"; this is a serious condition as though the shutter speeds are OK, the shutter travel is not smooth, it is uneven, leading to streaking across the frame. An interesting effect.
I need to bite the bullet and open the old lady up, much as I hate to do this to a mint camera.

My oldest 1950's VX is still OK, but needs work on the slow speed mechanism. I have another VX with the rubberixed shutter that I have attempted to fix by recoating. I don't know if that will last too long.
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I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work.

[Attila]

[dof]

There are Topcon cameras that use the Exakta lens mount. See list here:
http://camerapedia.wikia.com/wiki/T%C5%8Dky%C5%8D_K%C5%8Dgaku

[Attila]

[kyonthinh]

I think Canon EOS can mount these lens with adapter and doesnt need any correction lens. Or you use Canon FD?

[iangreenhalgh1]

I'm pretty sure there isn't an adapter for Exakta on EOS.

An old FD body would be close to bottom of my list, maybe the T series are okay but the older ones are so unreliable, I have three mint AE-1s and all three, despite having been barely used are jammed solid.
_________________
'The question I would really consider (especially if an amateur and on a budget) is whether or not anyone (including yourself, of course) can tell the difference in any situation for which you will use the lens...and if they can, why are they burying their noses in your prints hard enough to tell the difference instead of responding to the prints emotionally and thinking about what they might mean?' - 2F/2F on apug.org

Digital: Sony NEX-3, Samsung NX100, Canon EOS 450d
35mm SLR: Konica FT-1, Konica FC-1, Konica Autoreflex T, Carena SRH760, Exakta RTL1000, Canon EOS 10qd
35mm VF: Olympus Stylus, Konica C35, Konica A4, Konica MG, Konica MT-9, Ricoh FF-9, Ricoh AF-80
35mm RF: Zorki 6, Kiev II, Kiev IV, Contax IIIa, CZJ Werra III,
Medium format: Franka Rolfix, Mess Ikonta 524/16, Voigtlander Bessa with Skopar 3.5/105, Voigtlander Bessa with Voigtar 3.5/105, Kiev 6C, Century Graphic 23, Ensign Selfix 820, Kershaw 450
MF lenses: Schneider Angulon 6.5/68, Componon-S 5.6/100, C-Claron 4.5/135, Xenar 3.5/105, Mamiya C 2.8/45, Mamiya 2.8/80, CZJ Flektogon 4/50, Biometar 2.8/80, Zodiac 3.5/30, Tominon 4.5/135, Pullin Pulnar 2.8/100
Large Format: Ernemann HEAG Series VII version II 9x12 with Kodak Anastigmat 6.3/170
Konica Hexanons 4/21, 2.8/24, 3.5/28, 2.8/35, 1.8/40, 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 1.8/50, 3.2/135, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 4.5/300, 3.5-4.5/35-70, 4-4.6/28-135, 3.5/35-70, UC 3.5/45-100, 4/70-150, 4/65-135, UC 4/80-200. Hexars 3.5/28, 3.5/135, Konishiroku 2.8/35
Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.8/35, Skoparex 3.4/35, Tessar 2.8/50, Sonnar 1.5/50, Biotar 2/58, Pancolar 1.8/50, Cardinar 4/100, Zeiss-Opton Biogon 2.8/35
Meyer/Pentacons 2.8/28, Primagon 4.5/35, Trioplan 2.9/50, 1.8/50, 2.4/50, Primotar 3.5/50, Primotar 3.5/135
Topcon RE Auto Topcors 1.8/58, 3.5/135, 5.6/200
Russians: OKC1-18-1 2.8/18, OKC1-28-1 2.8/28, Jupiter-12 2.8/35, Jupiter-8 2/50, Industar-50 3.5/50, Industar-26M 2.8/50, Industar-22 3.5/50, Zenitar M2S 2/50, Helios-44-2, Jupiter-9 2/85, Jupiter-11 4/135, Tair-3C 4.5/300
Tokina 3.5/17, Nikon Auto Nikkor-N 2.8/24, Nikon Micro-Nikkor-P 3.5/55, Ross Xpress 3.5/4in, Ross Xpress 4/5in, Ross Xpress 4.5/8.5in, Wollensak APO-Raptar 10/541

[fermy]

For what it's worth, my AE-1 was always working fine. That being said, AE-1 comes from the era when manufacturers started to cut corners in order to lower prices so, for example, the top is painted plastic instead of metal. I wouldn't be surprised if earlier FD cameras are actually more durable and reliable. FTb seems to be made like a tank.
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Many lenses and some film bodies for sale here: http://forum.mflenses.com/canon-fd-minolta-md-c-mounts-m42-pentax-and-more-t50465.html

[iangreenhalgh1]

Earlier ones probably are better in how they are built to last. Last AE-1 I got jammed solid three shots into the first roll. Real shame as it looks like it's never been used.

If anyone would like a mint but jammed AE-1 to repair, you can have it for the postage.
_________________
'The question I would really consider (especially if an amateur and on a budget) is whether or not anyone (including yourself, of course) can tell the difference in any situation for which you will use the lens...and if they can, why are they burying their noses in your prints hard enough to tell the difference instead of responding to the prints emotionally and thinking about what they might mean?' - 2F/2F on apug.org

Digital: Sony NEX-3, Samsung NX100, Canon EOS 450d
35mm SLR: Konica FT-1, Konica FC-1, Konica Autoreflex T, Carena SRH760, Exakta RTL1000, Canon EOS 10qd
35mm VF: Olympus Stylus, Konica C35, Konica A4, Konica MG, Konica MT-9, Ricoh FF-9, Ricoh AF-80
35mm RF: Zorki 6, Kiev II, Kiev IV, Contax IIIa, CZJ Werra III,
Medium format: Franka Rolfix, Mess Ikonta 524/16, Voigtlander Bessa with Skopar 3.5/105, Voigtlander Bessa with Voigtar 3.5/105, Kiev 6C, Century Graphic 23, Ensign Selfix 820, Kershaw 450
MF lenses: Schneider Angulon 6.5/68, Componon-S 5.6/100, C-Claron 4.5/135, Xenar 3.5/105, Mamiya C 2.8/45, Mamiya 2.8/80, CZJ Flektogon 4/50, Biometar 2.8/80, Zodiac 3.5/30, Tominon 4.5/135, Pullin Pulnar 2.8/100
Large Format: Ernemann HEAG Series VII version II 9x12 with Kodak Anastigmat 6.3/170
Konica Hexanons 4/21, 2.8/24, 3.5/28, 2.8/35, 1.8/40, 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 1.8/50, 3.2/135, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 4.5/300, 3.5-4.5/35-70, 4-4.6/28-135, 3.5/35-70, UC 3.5/45-100, 4/70-150, 4/65-135, UC 4/80-200. Hexars 3.5/28, 3.5/135, Konishiroku 2.8/35
Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.8/35, Skoparex 3.4/35, Tessar 2.8/50, Sonnar 1.5/50, Biotar 2/58, Pancolar 1.8/50, Cardinar 4/100, Zeiss-Opton Biogon 2.8/35
Meyer/Pentacons 2.8/28, Primagon 4.5/35, Trioplan 2.9/50, 1.8/50, 2.4/50, Primotar 3.5/50, Primotar 3.5/135
Topcon RE Auto Topcors 1.8/58, 3.5/135, 5.6/200
Russians: OKC1-18-1 2.8/18, OKC1-28-1 2.8/28, Jupiter-12 2.8/35, Jupiter-8 2/50, Industar-50 3.5/50, Industar-26M 2.8/50, Industar-22 3.5/50, Zenitar M2S 2/50, Helios-44-2, Jupiter-9 2/85, Jupiter-11 4/135, Tair-3C 4.5/300
Tokina 3.5/17, Nikon Auto Nikkor-N 2.8/24, Nikon Micro-Nikkor-P 3.5/55, Ross Xpress 3.5/4in, Ross Xpress 4/5in, Ross Xpress 4.5/8.5in, Wollensak APO-Raptar 10/541

[fuzzywuzzy]

[eggboy]

Not sure about Canon EOS film bodies: digital crop bodies can mount Exakta lenses no problem: the full frame 5D* have clearance issues. I know both of these personally....not sure about the 1D series, which have slightly different mirrors than the 5D series. And I've never tried an EOS film body with Exakta lenses.

I've used FD bodies (FTb is great) for film, but the adapter is rare...don't think anyone makes it currently, so you have to find one of the original Canon ones, which usually go for US$75 or more.

Minolta and Konica would be good choices should you find the appropriate vintage adapter.
_________________
Eugene


SLR Lenses:
Meyer Görlitz Primoplan 5.8cm/1.9 Exakta (really heavy!)(uncoated, pre-war)
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotars: 5.8cm /2 Exakta, c. 1937 (uncoated, pre-war), 5.8cm /2 Exakta, c. 1942 (really early T coating!), 5.8cm /2 M42 c. 1950
Carl Zeiss Jena 5cm/2.8 Tessar Exakta mount, c.1936 (pretty damn heavy too!)(uncoated, pre-war)
Carl Zeiss Jena 13.5cm/2.8 Biotessar c.193? of somewhat mysterious origins...
Schneider Kreuznach: Xenon 5cm/2 Exakta and M40(uncoated, pre-war), Exakta post-war coated, Xenar 5cm/2.8 Exakta(pre-war)
Isco-Gottingen Westagon 1:2/50 M42
16/2.8 Zenitar Fisheye
Minolta Rokkor PG 55/1.2 converted to M42 mount
Nikkors:105/2.5 (Sonnar), Nikkor-Micro 55mm/3.5, Nikkor-N 35/1.4, Nikkor-S.C. 50/1.4, Nikkor-S 55/1.2,Nikkor N.C. 28/2
Pentacon Prakticar 50/2.4 B mount
Yashinons: 3,5cm/2.8 and 5cm/2, both really early ones
Zeiss C/Y: 50/1.4 Planar, 28/2.8 Distagon
Wollensak 25mm/1.9 C-Mount
--Plus a variety of Isco-Göttingen, Canon FD, Pentacon, Yashinon etc. that are getting too numerous to list...
Cameras:
Canon 5D classic with manual focus screen Eg-S, Olympus E-P2 with EVF, Canon F-1, Practica LTL (my first ever SLR, circa 1975!), Zeiss Ikonta 521 folder 6x9 Zeiss 105/4.5 Novar, Zenza Bronica S2 72376 with a Nippon Kogaku Nikkor-P 1:2.8 f=75mm

Nearly current full list and a photo or two of my lens herd

[iangreenhalgh1]

Exakta mount lenses don't protrude at all into an EOS body.
_________________
'The question I would really consider (especially if an amateur and on a budget) is whether or not anyone (including yourself, of course) can tell the difference in any situation for which you will use the lens...and if they can, why are they burying their noses in your prints hard enough to tell the difference instead of responding to the prints emotionally and thinking about what they might mean?' - 2F/2F on apug.org

Digital: Sony NEX-3, Samsung NX100, Canon EOS 450d
35mm SLR: Konica FT-1, Konica FC-1, Konica Autoreflex T, Carena SRH760, Exakta RTL1000, Canon EOS 10qd
35mm VF: Olympus Stylus, Konica C35, Konica A4, Konica MG, Konica MT-9, Ricoh FF-9, Ricoh AF-80
35mm RF: Zorki 6, Kiev II, Kiev IV, Contax IIIa, CZJ Werra III,
Medium format: Franka Rolfix, Mess Ikonta 524/16, Voigtlander Bessa with Skopar 3.5/105, Voigtlander Bessa with Voigtar 3.5/105, Kiev 6C, Century Graphic 23, Ensign Selfix 820, Kershaw 450
MF lenses: Schneider Angulon 6.5/68, Componon-S 5.6/100, C-Claron 4.5/135, Xenar 3.5/105, Mamiya C 2.8/45, Mamiya 2.8/80, CZJ Flektogon 4/50, Biometar 2.8/80, Zodiac 3.5/30, Tominon 4.5/135, Pullin Pulnar 2.8/100
Large Format: Ernemann HEAG Series VII version II 9x12 with Kodak Anastigmat 6.3/170
Konica Hexanons 4/21, 2.8/24, 3.5/28, 2.8/35, 1.8/40, 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 1.8/50, 3.2/135, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 4.5/300, 3.5-4.5/35-70, 4-4.6/28-135, 3.5/35-70, UC 3.5/45-100, 4/70-150, 4/65-135, UC 4/80-200. Hexars 3.5/28, 3.5/135, Konishiroku 2.8/35
Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.8/35, Skoparex 3.4/35, Tessar 2.8/50, Sonnar 1.5/50, Biotar 2/58, Pancolar 1.8/50, Cardinar 4/100, Zeiss-Opton Biogon 2.8/35
Meyer/Pentacons 2.8/28, Primagon 4.5/35, Trioplan 2.9/50, 1.8/50, 2.4/50, Primotar 3.5/50, Primotar 3.5/135
Topcon RE Auto Topcors 1.8/58, 3.5/135, 5.6/200
Russians: OKC1-18-1 2.8/18, OKC1-28-1 2.8/28, Jupiter-12 2.8/35, Jupiter-8 2/50, Industar-50 3.5/50, Industar-26M 2.8/50, Industar-22 3.5/50, Zenitar M2S 2/50, Helios-44-2, Jupiter-9 2/85, Jupiter-11 4/135, Tair-3C 4.5/300
Tokina 3.5/17, Nikon Auto Nikkor-N 2.8/24, Nikon Micro-Nikkor-P 3.5/55, Ross Xpress 3.5/4in, Ross Xpress 4/5in, Ross Xpress 4.5/8.5in, Wollensak APO-Raptar 10/541

[std]

It depends. On EOS some of the exakta lenses are hitting the mirror when you focus to infinity - i will check my lenses but i think the Kilfitt-Makro-Kilar E 3.5/4cm was hitting.
This is only valid for full frame and film bodies i guess - the same lenses will work on crop bodies.

I'm using an EOS film body with this adapter http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=41152
It works for most of them - auto lenses cannot mount but other are just fine.
_________________
Stefan

My lens list:
SLR FD: Canon FL 1.2/55 MD: Rokkor 1,7/50; Rokkor PF 1.4/58 Exakta: Kilfitt-Makro-Kilar E 3.5/4cm; CZJ 2/50 Pancolar; CZJ 2/5,8cm T Biotar black; Meyer 1.9/58 Primoplan alu; E.Ludwig Meritar 2.9/50; Meyer 2.8/100 Trioplan; CZJ 4/135 Sonnar alu; CZJ 4/135 Triotar alu M42: CZJ 2.8/50 Tessar; Mir-1B 2.8/37; Tokina RMC 2/28 T-mount: Tamron 5.9/200; Tamron 6.9/300; Tamron 7.5/400 C-mount: Cosmicar 1.8/50 Schneider-Kreuznach Variogon 1:2/18-90 Y/S: Sun 3.5/38-90, Sun 4/70-210
RF Contax RF: Jipiter-12 2,8/3,5cm; Sonnar 1.5/5cm; Jupiter-8 2/50; Jupiter-9 2/8,5cm; Jupiter-11 4/135 Contax G: CZ 2,8/28 Biogon T; CZ 2/35 Planar T; CZ 2,8/90 Sonnar T Pentax A110: 2.8/18; 2.8/24; 2.8/50; 2.8/70

[eggboy]