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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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Posted: Thu May 24, 2012 1:46 pm Post subject: Carl Zeiss sonnar 85 2.8 C/Y - loose part inside |
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hoanpham wrote:
My lens has some loose part inside.
First I though it could be a screw or something get inside from the base.
I disassembled the lens from the base and pulled out the aperture mechanism.
But the loosing part is not in there.
It sounds like a metal screw or ball inside the front part of the lens, but not visible.
I don't have other tools than JIS screw drivers.
The lens is working fine, but if something can hit glass elements inside, it should be removed.
Any idea what it can be?
Best regards. |
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Olivier
Joined: 18 Feb 2009 Posts: 5077 Location: France
Expire: 2015-08-06
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Posted: Fri May 25, 2012 11:07 pm Post subject: |
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Olivier wrote:
Maybe a diaph ring ball ? _________________ Olivier - Moderator
Dslr : Olympus Pen E-P2 - Fujifilm X-Pro2 - Canon 5D MkII.
SLr and MF lenses : for feedback and helping people, cameras and lenses I own : full list here http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic,p,1442740.html#1442740 |
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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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Posted: Sat May 26, 2012 4:55 pm Post subject: |
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hoanpham wrote:
No, the ball is inside, i reassembled the whole rear parts with the ball.
I need a rubber set to open up he front part. May be it s about time to invest some tools as i have several fungus coming in as well... |
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poilu
Joined: 26 Aug 2007 Posts: 10469 Location: Greece
Expire: 2019-08-29
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Posted: Sat May 26, 2012 5:09 pm Post subject: |
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poilu wrote:
hoanpham wrote: |
No, the ball is inside, i reassembled the whole rear parts with the ball.
I need a rubber set to open up he front part. May be it s about time to invest some tools as i have several fungus coming in as well... |
look here how to open the front
http://forum.mflenses.com/infinity-tune-for-contax-lens-t7011.html _________________ T* |
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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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Posted: Sat May 26, 2012 8:54 pm Post subject: |
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hoanpham wrote:
Thanks a lot. I didnt know the front can be dismount that easy.
Does that mean i need to unscrew the name plate first? By using a rubber tool? |
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poilu
Joined: 26 Aug 2007 Posts: 10469 Location: Greece
Expire: 2019-08-29
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Posted: Sat May 26, 2012 9:12 pm Post subject: |
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poilu wrote:
no need to unscrew name plate _________________ T* |
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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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Posted: Sat May 26, 2012 9:47 pm Post subject: |
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hoanpham wrote:
The distagon 28/2.8 unscrewed easily.
The sonnar is hard, i have used strong forced. May be it is glued somewhere? |
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poilu
Joined: 26 Aug 2007 Posts: 10469 Location: Greece
Expire: 2019-08-29
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Posted: Sat May 26, 2012 10:40 pm Post subject: |
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poilu wrote:
hoanpham wrote: |
The distagon 28/2.8 unscrewed easily.
The sonnar is hard, i have used strong forced. May be it is glued somewhere? |
I check my 85 and the screws are under the rubber, seems it is a different design and front don't unscrew like the others _________________ T* |
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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 11:01 am Post subject: |
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hoanpham wrote:
ok. I manage to open up the lens, and re-assembled it several times.
However, I don't have proper tools to screw it in into original position. The distance scale is blocking another part of the helicoid.
To remove the distance scale - for adjusting infinity - I still need the rubber tool to remove the name plate.
The loosing part is still there, but now I know it is hidden behind the name plate.
It is a real joy to look at the mechanical solution regarding adjustment, alignment, design and solution selected.
A rubber tool set is ordered - hopefully, i may not need Attila to assemble it together |
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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 7:58 am Post subject: |
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hoanpham wrote:
I got the rubbers from eby - yellow transparent rubbers with firm grip, so I guess they are among the good ones.
What I did with the lens is completely dis-assembled both front and rear parts, but not the optical parts.
The loosing part is a long screw, one of three that hold the outer barrel of the lens. If I had the rubbers, the job should be done in minutes. In rush, I also forgot to take photos during the dis-assembling process, and that took me 1-2 hrs to understand and put it back, or completed the whole process in 5 hrs - assembling first time, tested, falling apart. 4th time is done correctly. And i also have some photos during the process.
What I have learn:
- Adjusting infinity is not so hard.
- The parts have fit in there places - look scary with many parts but logically and relatively easy to put them back.
- There is a mount/dismount order to get these parts together, described in section under.
- Mechanically, it was a joy to see how it works.
Disclaimer:
I list the mount order as I have done it, but if you want to try - please don't blame me - your lens, your risk, do whatever you like.
Mount order is as follow:
- The rear aperture scale and the cobber focus mechanism need to adjust approximately to fit the distance scale
- The 2 metal arms connected by 4 screws at the rear cobber part, need to be removed to mount the optic group.
- Optic group and helicoid is somewhat difficult to align - took me 15 min first time.
- Set the optic group to approximate minimum focus distance (optic group sticking out, but not falling apart)
- Align the 2 holes for the metal arms with the opening of the aperture lever.
- Mount the metal arms. Don't turn to test.
- Mount the distance scale and the ring inside. The ring and the distance scale should fit and grip the cobber helicoid to focus. Note set the distance scale approx MFD (~1m)
- Test the focus by turning whole focus throw. It should stop at MFD and at infinity - no adjustment yet.
- Mount the aperture ring at the rear, align the pin to the aperture hole in optic group.
- Place the spring and the metal ball (for aperture clicking) on the aperture ring.
- Place the metal washer with holes for aperture clicking. Align the washer in the opening in the rear part.
- Mount the base. The base has 2 set of screws - If the 3 inner had been unscrewed - the spring and aperture lever must be assembled first before mounting the base to the lens. The base has 4 screws. Use a finger or a thin rubber band to keep the aperture lever open while align the base.
- Mount the lens to a camera, now adjust infinity by *slightly* unscrew the distance scale to loosen up the inner ring and turn the distance scale while keep it firmly to the lens. Then tighten the screws before focus.
- Repeat infinity adjustment as needed.
- Clean the front element as needed.
- When done, mount the outer barrel by 3 long screws.
- Screw in name plate.
- Mount focus rubber.
The lens is now ready for action.
I hope you never need to open up your copy of this lens.
If you do, good luck with it.
Now I am happy with my copy hoo hoo |
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Olivier
Joined: 18 Feb 2009 Posts: 5077 Location: France
Expire: 2015-08-06
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Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 12:04 pm Post subject: |
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Olivier wrote:
Thank you for your tutorial.
Happy that you managed to fix it. _________________ Olivier - Moderator
Dslr : Olympus Pen E-P2 - Fujifilm X-Pro2 - Canon 5D MkII.
SLr and MF lenses : for feedback and helping people, cameras and lenses I own : full list here http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic,p,1442740.html#1442740 |
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tromboads
Joined: 29 May 2012 Posts: 1782 Location: Melbourne AU
Expire: 2015-10-01
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Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 12:08 am Post subject: |
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tromboads wrote:
No need to go to eBay for a rubber tool. I cut down a 50mm house hold drain plug to good effect. |
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