Home

Please support mflenses.com if you need any graphic related work order it from us, click on above banner to order!

SearchSearch MemberlistMemberlist RegisterRegister ProfileProfile Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages Log inLog in

URGENT TIME SENSITIVE! Vivitar Series 1
View previous topic :: View next topic  


PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:09 pm    Post subject: URGENT TIME SENSITIVE! Vivitar Series 1 Reply with quote

Hi,

I am watching two auction both ending very close to each other (like within 30 minutes).

One for Vivitar Series 1 70-210mm and it is the Kiron version ($30) clean front element
One for Vivitar Series 1 70-210 mm and it is the Komine version ($60) - but it has faint scratches on the front element.

What should I chose?


PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One for Vivitar Series 1 70-210mm and it is the Kiron version ($30) clean front element


PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This lens got limited 'buzz' under years, I remember some people say Komine is better, I had Kiron , it's okay, but I didn't use it due weight size and I am not fond of zooms.


PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is little between them.
Clean front element very important
OH


PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd rather have the one that is clean inside.


PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clean front element for me too


PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oldhand wrote:
There is little between them.
Clean front element very important
OH


The seller said being very faint scratches, it wouldn't affect the picture. There is a Tokina version for $70 available. It is difficult to tell how important the differences is between komine, kiron, and tokina when it comes to picture quality.


PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

maldaye wrote:
Oldhand wrote:
There is little between them.
Clean front element very important
OH


The seller said being very faint scratches, it wouldn't affect the picture. There is a Tokina version for $70 available. It is difficult to tell how important the differences is between komine, kiron, and tokina when it comes to picture quality.


The seller said being very faint scratches, it wouldn't affect the picture.
The seller would say that.
In a choice between those two, choose the one without scratches.
OH


PostPosted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 1:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I have both, don't use them enough due to weight and size. My impressions from the lenses were that they play in the same league. My Komine is very clean, Kiron has some weird small dots on the rear element, does not look like fungus, but I have no idea what it is.

Which brings me to the point of scratches and other imperfections. Some of my favorite lenses are scratched, have separation, cleaning marks, etc. In principle, every lens is a lottery to some extent. Nobody is able to predict whether this Komine version v scratches will work for you better than that Kiron version or vice versa, it depends on the individual copies. However, scratches do affect resale value somewhat. Therefore, all other things being equal, I would have chosen the cheaper lens without imperfections over a more expensive lens with cleaning marks. For example, I have listed both lenses for sale and priced Komine @ 45 Euros and Kiron with spots @ 25 Euros, even though I believe the IQ from both is about the same.

However, all things are never equal. For example, the weight of the words "it does not affect image quality" from a salesman, is not the same as the weight of those words coming from someone trustworthy who uses the lens, etc.


PostPosted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 1:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

fermy wrote:
Well, I have both, don't use them enough due to weight and size. My impressions from the lenses were that they play in the same league. My Komine is very clean, Kiron has some weird small dots on the rear element, does not look like fungus, but I have no idea what it is.

Which brings me to the point of scratches and other imperfections. Some of my favorite lenses are scratched, have separation, cleaning marks, etc. In principle, every lens is a lottery to some extent. Nobody is able to predict whether this Komine version v scratches will work for you better than that Kiron version or vice versa, it depends on the individual copies. However, scratches do affect resale value somewhat. Therefore, all other things being equal, I would have chosen the cheaper lens without imperfections over a more expensive lens with cleaning marks. For example, I have listed both lenses for sale and priced Komine @ 45 Euros and Kiron with spots @ 25 Euros, even though I believe the IQ from both is about the same.

However, all things are never equal. For example, the weight of the words "it does not affect image quality" from a salesman, is not the same as the weight of those words coming from someone trustworthy who uses the lens, etc.


Agreed.
These lenses come along regularly, and there is no need to rush into a purchase that has some question marks about it.
If you really want a Komine, wait for another to come along that has no issues.
OH


PostPosted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 1:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My favorite is the 2nd version, made by Tokina. It's a bit better, resolution-wise than the 1st version, made by Kiron, plus it's smaller and a lot lighter. The Tokina version is almost as sharp as the 3rd version, made by Komine. The Komine achieves slightly better resolution numbers by sacrificing half a stop at 200mm. I'd just as soon have a zoom with a constant f/3.5 aperture wide open, which makes things less complicated when I'm shooting with a manual exposure camera.

As for the faint scratches, allow me to pass along a bit of experience here. Some years back, I bought a well-used Nikon 180mm f/2.8 ED from a press photographer. It had a bad gouge in the front element, about 1cm x 0.5cm in size. This guy assured me that it didn't affect the images, but he was selling it for so cheap that I couldn't say no. So I bought it and proceeded to use it. A lot. That lens was, at the time, the sharpest optic I owned. It took amazing good photos. So all I can say is, if the front lens has some very light scratches, all they really amount to is a good discount in the price.


PostPosted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 7:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes.. the longer the focal length, the less front element scratches and imperfections matter. What one should really be concerned about are rear element scratches/imperfections, as they will definitely affect the image, no matter what the focal length may be.


PostPosted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 8:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For what it is worth I will share some information.

A few days ago I saw a listing for a new/old stock Series 1 VIVITAR 70-210 (or something close to that) Zoom.

So essentially it's brand new!

I can't find the link anymore but it's an Ebay listing from the US with a starting bid at $36 or so.

If that listing is still out there, it may be better to wait. At the very least take a few minutes to search on Ebay and try to locate the listing. I already have a zoom so I didn't save the link.

EBay is a juggling act. Sometimes you rush to secure a bargain and only after you have committed your funds, a MUCH BETTER opportunity presents itself.

If only I had a dollar every time this has happened to me. Rolling Eyes


PostPosted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ended up losing the cheaper auction (the $36) because my internet died 2 minutes before the auction ended. I only bid last 15 seconds. The fellow with the scratched Komine is offering his still at a discount and I am currently watching a Kino listing that has Komine serial number (apparently he didn't know it was Komine) that is super clean. I thought about the Tokina as well due to smaller size and consant apartue, but I like the 2.8 on Komine and increased sharpness.

Here is the link to the scratched one:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Vivitar-Series-I-70mm-120mm-F-2-8-Macro-Lens-for-Nikon-AIS-Mount-/130936181464?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item1e7c6792d8&_uhb=1




parabellumfoto wrote:
For what it is worth I will share some information.

A few days ago I saw a listing for a new/old stock Series 1 VIVITAR 70-210 (or something close to that) Zoom.

So essentially it's brand new!

I can't find the link anymore but it's an Ebay listing from the US with a starting bid at $36 or so.

If that listing is still out there, it may be better to wait. At the very least take a few minutes to search on Ebay and try to locate the listing. I already have a zoom so I didn't save the link.

EBay is a juggling act. Sometimes you rush to secure a bargain and only after you have committed your funds, a MUCH BETTER opportunity presents itself.

If only I had a dollar every time this has happened to me. Rolling Eyes


PostPosted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the Tokina made version, not bad but not great and very big and heavy. Konica Zoom-Hexanon UC 4/80-200 is better and lighter so I sold the Vivitar.

Last edited by iangreenhalgh1 on Sat Jun 29, 2013 1:00 am; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not to derail this topic or anything, but I feel it is only fair to mention, since we're discussing the merits of 70-210 zooms, the Tamron 19AH SP 70-210mm f/3.5 is virtually equivalent to the Vivitar S1 lenses, as far as resolution/contrast numbers go. It tends to outperform the Vivitars on corner sharpness and is very close on center sharpness. But to me, the big surprise is the Tamron 23A SP 60-300 3.8-5.4. Yes, it's slower than the Vivitars, but it also has more range in both directions. Plus, it is sharper than ALL of the Vivitar S1 lenses, except v3 of the S1s, which outscores the 60-300 by 4 l/mm at 210mm. That, to me, is getting into the territory of splitting hairs as to a difference. I own a couple of Tamron 60-300s and a 70-210. Really, the 70-210 doesn't get much use because I just tend to reach for the 60-300 first. I've been using a Tamron 60-300 ever since I bought one new back in the mid-1980s. It was an expensive lens -- more expensive by a considerable amount than the Vivitar S1 70-210s. As I dimly recall, I paid well in excess of $300US for it. And that would have been approximately 1986 dollars, too. Often the Tamron 60-300 can be found on eBay for cheap.


PostPosted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 12:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

maldaye wrote:
I ended up losing the cheaper auction (the $36) because my internet died 2 minutes before the auction ended. I only bid last 15 seconds. The fellow with the scratched Komine is offering his still at a discount and I am currently watching a Kino listing that has Komine serial number (apparently he didn't know it was Komine) that is super clean. I thought about the Tokina as well due to smaller size and consant apartue, but I like the 2.8 on Komine and increased sharpness.

Here is the link to the scratched one:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Vivitar-Series-I-70mm-120mm-F-2-8-Macro-Lens-for-Nikon-AIS-Mount-/130936181464?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item1e7c6792d8&_uhb=1




parabellumfoto wrote:
For what it is worth I will share some information.

A few days ago I saw a listing for a new/old stock Series 1 VIVITAR 70-210 (or something close to that) Zoom.

So essentially it's brand new!

I can't find the link anymore but it's an Ebay listing from the US with a starting bid at $36 or so.

If that listing is still out there, it may be better to wait. At the very least take a few minutes to search on Ebay and try to locate the listing. I already have a zoom so I didn't save the link.

EBay is a juggling act. Sometimes you rush to secure a bargain and only after you have committed your funds, a MUCH BETTER opportunity presents itself.

If only I had a dollar every time this has happened to me. Rolling Eyes


I have the series 1 Komine 2.8 version and it is indeed a fine lens but heavy, I actually offered it here the other day to another member for £90 but mine is in great condition, I've seen these go on Ebay for as much £122 and others for much less. Looking at the scratches that are visible on your link I don't think they would badly impact the photos except maybe from certain angles, he's listed it twice so make an offer of half the asking, you may get lucky.


PostPosted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 1:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cooltouch wrote:
Not to derail this topic or anything, but I feel it is only fair to mention, since we're discussing the merits of 70-210 zooms, the Tamron 19AH SP 70-210mm f/3.5 is virtually equivalent to the Vivitar S1 lenses, as far as resolution/contrast numbers go. It tends to outperform the Vivitars on corner sharpness and is very close on center sharpness. But to me, the big surprise is the Tamron 23A SP 60-300 3.8-5.4. Yes, it's slower than the Vivitars, but it also has more range in both directions. Plus, it is sharper than ALL of the Vivitar S1 lenses, except v3 of the S1s, which outscores the 60-300 by 4 l/mm at 210mm. That, to me, is getting into the territory of splitting hairs as to a difference. I own a couple of Tamron 60-300s and a 70-210. Really, the 70-210 doesn't get much use because I just tend to reach for the 60-300 first. I've been using a Tamron 60-300 ever since I bought one new back in the mid-1980s. It was an expensive lens -- more expensive by a considerable amount than the Vivitar S1 70-210s. As I dimly recall, I paid well in excess of $300US for it. And that would have been approximately 1986 dollars, too. Often the Tamron 60-300 can be found on eBay for cheap.


I heard about the 19AH, but I haven't found one for sale anywhere.
Thank you for the info on the Tamron 23A. It wasn't even on my radar. It is now.


PostPosted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 2:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For a short while i owned and love the 3rd version Komine made S1 70-210...
I sold it because of its MD mount.... not very useful to me...

I now own a Tamron 19AH.

You can get useful info on all VIVITAR S1 70-210's version here:
http://www.robertstech.com/vivitar.htm#samples


PostPosted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 4:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mir wrote:
For a short while i owned and love the 3rd version Komine made S1 70-210...
I sold it because of its MD mount.... not very useful to me...

I now own a Tamron 19AH.

You can get useful info on all VIVITAR S1 70-210's version here:
http://www.robertstech.com/vivitar.htm#samples


Lol, I'd love a MD mount, moving mine on because it's an AR mount Rolling Eyes


PostPosted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

maldaye wrote:

I heard about the 19AH, but I haven't found one for sale anywhere.
Thank you for the info on the Tamron 23A. It wasn't even on my radar. It is now.


I've found the 19AH to be somewhat uncommon, even on eBay, whereas the 23A is plentiful. I stumbled across my 19AH in a used lens bin at a local camera shop for cheap. I immediately snatched it up. Cool


PostPosted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 4:25 pm    Post subject: More information on the Tamron 23A 60-300 3.8-5.4 Reply with quote

Hi!

I have both the Tamron 19AH 70-210 3.5 and the 23A 60-300 3.8-5.4. I find that the images from the 23A are in general as good as those from the 19AH, and I prefer both the general handling and the close focus capabilities of the 23A. It goes to 1:1.55 macro magnification! The only problem I've found with the 23A is extreme purple fringing in some very high-contrast situations. Please see my previous post for many pictures taken with a Panasonic GH2 and this lens, including some shots showing the PF problem. That said, this is one I reach for often when I ned a large zoom range.

http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=54388

These are often available in good shape, and with the hood (don't skimp on this, you'lll need it), for $75 or so on auction sites. The 19AH is much less common and is in my opinion--despite some degree of hype about it--not as good in the real world.

Cheers!



cooltouch wrote:
Not to derail this topic or anything, but I feel it is only fair to mention, since we're discussing the merits of 70-210 zooms, the Tamron 19AH SP 70-210mm f/3.5 is virtually equivalent to the Vivitar S1 lenses, as far as resolution/contrast numbers go. It tends to outperform the Vivitars on corner sharpness and is very close on center sharpness. But to me, the big surprise is the Tamron 23A SP 60-300 3.8-5.4. Yes, it's slower than the Vivitars, but it also has more range in both directions. Plus, it is sharper than ALL of the Vivitar S1 lenses, except v3 of the S1s, which outscores the 60-300 by 4 l/mm at 210mm. That, to me, is getting into the territory of splitting hairs as to a difference. I own a couple of Tamron 60-300s and a 70-210. Really, the 70-210 doesn't get much use because I just tend to reach for the 60-300 first. I've been using a Tamron 60-300 ever since I bought one new back in the mid-1980s. It was an expensive lens -- more expensive by a considerable amount than the Vivitar S1 70-210s. As I dimly recall, I paid well in excess of $300US for it. And that would have been approximately 1986 dollars, too. Often the Tamron 60-300 can be found on eBay for cheap.


PostPosted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 4:47 pm    Post subject: Re: More information on the Tamron 23A 60-300 3.8-5.4 Reply with quote

glasslover wrote:
The only problem I've found with the 23A is extreme purple fringing in some very high-contrast situations.


I can tell you that I have had to deal with extreme color fringing in high-contrast situations, but for me the worst offenders were my Canon FD 200mm f/2.8 and FD 300mm f/4. In fact, a big reason why I used my 23A as much as I did back when I was shooting lots of slides was because I didn't have to worry about color fringing with it in high-contrast situations. But then this was with a film camera. I'm aware that, with some digitals, chromatic aberrations can become amplified, especially purple fringing. But I can honestly say that I haven't noticed this same problem with mine. I own two 23As and I haven't noticed much of any color fringing with either of them. So I'm wondering if this might be an example of variance from one piece to another. Or could it be a specific camera sensor that is more likely to produce the fringing?


PostPosted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hope you got the information needed to make an informed decision. However, one thing I have learned is that these things are almost never urgent or time-sensitive. Lenses come and lenses go.


PostPosted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In my experience, the 19AH is slightly better than the 23A - even if I didn't compare them in deep, it's just an impression I had using them.
The difference, if any, is so slight that is easily compensated by longer reach and lower price, though.
One thing I really appreciate in my 19AH is the constant max aperture.
Both lenses suffer a bit from purple fringing, under some circumstances.

some samples with the 19AH:
http://forum.mflenses.com/tamron-sp-70-210-3-5-cf-macro-some-samples-t58923,highlight,%2Btamron+%2Bsp+%2B70+%2B210.html

And, there's one for sale here on the marketplace Wink
http://forum.mflenses.com/tamron-sp-70-210-3-5-cf-macro-19ah-t59388,highlight,%2Btamron+%2Bsp+%2B70+%2B210.html