Microsoft ICE for stitching?

[Hood]

I had been giving stitching a go for the first time and after I posted my first try here:
http://forum.mflenses.com/the-big-stitch-and-in-camera-panorama-thread-d-t46683.html
One of the guys suggested that he uses a software stitching program to help.
So I went looking around the net and came across Microsoft ICE, it was free so I gave it a whirl.
I wrote my experiences with it here:
http://protas.metalforfishes.com/?p=372

I was just wondering if anyone else had used this software and what were their thoughts/experiences with it?
Is this a pretty standard program as far as these go or are there ones that are much better?
_________________

-Josh

Currently shooting:
Digital:Sony Nex-5, Nex-5n, Pentax KX, Pentax K30 and Fuji JZ100
Film: Minolta x700, Contax 137MD, Chinon Memotron, Minolta 500si, Minolta 700si, Canon Ex-auto, Minolta 35DL weathermatic, Pentax espio 738, Minolta Himatic-G, Olympus Trip 35, Elixa Reflex-B, Pentax MZ-60
Lens Collection:Slr Magic 28/2.8, Slr Magic 35/1.7, Minolta Rokkor 45/2, Minolta Rokkor 50/1.4, Minolta W-Rokkor-sg 28/3.5, Minolta 35-70/3.5, Minolta Rokkor-PF 55/1.9, Minolta W.Rokkor 28/3.5, Monolta MD 50/2*2, Minolta 50/1.7, Minolta zealox bellows, Minolta e.Rokkor 75/4.5, Sony 18-55 3.5/5.6, Sony 16/2.8, Asahi Smc Takumar 55/1.8, Asahi Smc Takumar 50/1.5, Meyer Gerlitz Dimoplan 50/2.8,Meyer Gerlitz Orestegon 50/1.8, Tamron 35/2.8, Tamron 70-220/4, Tamron aspherical 28-200 3.8-5.6, Seimar 28/2.8, Aus Jena Tessar 50/2.8, Industar 50/3.5, Industar 26m 50/2.8, Industar 61 55/2.8, Industar 69 28/2.8, Carenar 45/2.8, Pentacon electric 50/1.8, Pentacon 30/3.5, Pentacon 29/2.8, Helios 44m 58/2, Miida 35/2.8, Miida 75-205/3.8, Cosina 28/2.8, Kenlock 135/2.8, Kenlock 35/2.8, Kenlock Mc-tor 28/2.8, Jupiter 8 50/2, Vivitar 28-85 3.5-4.5 macro, Vivitar 28-80 3.5-5.6 macro, Exacta 35-70 3.5-4.8 macro, Sigma 35-70 2.8-4, Sigma 100-200 4.5, SamYong 18-28 4-4.5, Photax-Pharagon 35/2.8, Travenar 35/2.8, Travenar 50/1.8, Tokina 70-210 4-5.6, Tokina 28/2.8, Promura 200/3.5, Sirius 20-200 3.9, Soligor 200/3.5, Canon FL 50/1.8, Canon FD 35-70 3.5-4.5, Auto Focal 75-200/4.5, Zenit Zenitar 50/2,Tokina353 35-300mm(KX), Pentax 18-55(KX), Pentax 35-80(KX), Sigma 14mm F2.8(KX), Sigma 70-200mm(KX), Sigma 24-70mm(KX), Pentax 35-135 macro(KX), plus I have a few in for service right now and I'm always collecting more...
It's been a few months now, I need to sit down and update this list...it has grown! haha

My Blog:
http://joshpereraphoto.com
And here is my Facebook page, please check out my photos if you are a facebook user:
https://www.facebook.com/amomentintimeimagery

[WolverineX]

i use it when i want to make a panorama. it's just the recently made by Microsoft (in last year or so), so it's not a standard for stitching panoramas, there were other programs from other makers before that, but most of them are not free, ICE is. I think most people will recommend you Hugin,free open source , as a standard but i find ICE more compact to install and easier to use,and it gets the job done.
Also in Photoshop , there is an option for stitching panoramas
_________________
my tools:Oly E-M5 + 45mm/1.8 + Oly E-520 + 12-60 + 14-42 + 70-300 + Sigma 105mm + FL-50R + EC20 + SRF-11 ring flash

OM lenses: 24mm/2.8, 28mm/3.5, 35mm/2 , 50mm/1.8, 50mm/1.4, 50mm/3.5 macro, 50mm/2 macro , 90mm/2 macro , 55mm/1.2 ,100mm/2.8 ,135mm/2.8,135mm/3.5,200mm/5, 75-150mm/4 , 500mm/8 reflex , 35-70mm/3.6, 35-70mm/4, 85-250mm/5 , 100-200mm/5 ,Soligor OM 28-80mm/3.5-4.5 , RMC Tokina 80-200mm/4 , Osawa 28mm/2.8 , Vivitar 28mm/2.8 , Vivitar Series 1 70-210mm/3.5 (kiron) , Sigma 24mm/2.8 , Sigma 8mm/4 fisheye , Sigma 300mm/2, Vivitar 90mm/2.8 , Panagor 55mm/2.8 , Tamron SP 90mm/2.5 , Tamron SP 28-80mm/3.5-4-2
m42 lenses : Pancolar 50mm/1.8, Fujinon EBC 55mm/3.5 macro , Tomioka Yashinon 60mm/2.8,Pentacon 29mm/2.8, Pentacon 50mm/1.8, Pentacon auto 100mm/2.8, Pentacon auto 200mm/4 , Helios-44-2 58mm/2 , Samyang 500mm/8, Industar-50-2 50mm/3,5 , tair3-phs 300mm/4.5 , aus Jena 50mm/2.8, Helios 44M-4 58mm/2, Helios 44 58mm/2 , Jupiter-21M 200mm/4 , Mir-1W 37mm/2.8, Industar 61 L/Z 50mm/2.8 ,Helios 40-2 85mm/1.5, Tair 11a 135mm/2.8 , Meyer-Optik Goerlitz Primotar 135mm/3.5, Jupiter37a/3.5, Volna-9 50mm/2.8, Super Macro Takumar 50mm/4, Macro Takumar 50/4, Sirius 18-28mm/4-4.5 , CZJ Tessar 50mm/2.8 , Fujinon 55mm/1.8 , Super Carenar 35mm/2.8 , Cosinon 50mm/2.8 (several 2x converters , macro bellows ) , Soligor 135mm/2
pentacon six lens: czj Flektogon 50mm/4 , Biometar 80mm/2.8 (x2) , czj Sonnar 180mm/2.8
minolta md lens: minolta md 24mm/2.8 VFC , 35-70mm/3.5 , mc rokkor 35mm/2.8, macro rokkor qf 50mm/3.5 , rokkor-x 50mm/1.4, MD tele rokkor 135mm/3.5, tele rokkor 300mm/5.6 , minolta 35-105mm/3.5-4.5 , MD zoom 70-210mm/4.5-5.6, Tokina AT-X 90mm/2.5 , Tokina AT-X 80-200mm/2.8 , sigma 100mm/2.8 , Vivitar series 1 35-85mm/2.8 , Kiron 28mm/2 , Panagor 28mm/2.5 , Tamron 85-210mm/4.5 ,
pentax k lens:SMC pentax-m 50mm/1.4 , SMC pentax-m 100mm/4 macro
nikon manual lenses: Maginon 100-500mm/5.6-7.1, Kiron 105mm/2.8, Tokina AT-X 50-250mm/4-5.6 ,Tokina AT-X 35-70mm/2.8 , Micro-Nikkor 55mm/3.5 , Micro-Nikkor 105mm/2.8 , Micro-Nikkor 200mm/4 , Nikkor 28mm/2.8 AiS , Soligor 200mm/2.8 ,Nikkor 20mm/4, RMC Tokina 17mm/3.5, Tamron 28-50mm/3.5-4.5, zoom Nikkor 35-105mm/3.5-4.5/ El-Nikkors: 50mm/2.8 , 80mm/5.6
Canon FD lenses:Makinon 35-70 , Canon 135mm/2.8 , Canon 70-150mm/4.5 , Canon 50mm/1.4 s.s.c., Canon 50mm/1.8
Konica AR lenses: Hexanon 28mm/3.5, Hexanon 40mm/1.8 ,Hexanon 50mm/1.7, Hexanon 52mm/1.8 , Hexar 135mm/3.5, Hexanon 135mm/3.2 , Hexanon 200mm/3.5
m39 lenses: silver Jupiter-9 85mm/2 , Jupiter 8 50mm/2 , Industar 61 L/D 52mm/2.8

[Hood]

Ahh, excellent. Thank you for sharing your experiences.
Do you know what the option is called in Photoshop that allows you to do this?
I would love to compare results.
My mate Max was telling me that this ICE is actually based off software developed for scanners, that was designed to make sure the lighting was right etc.
_________________

-Josh

Currently shooting:
Digital:Sony Nex-5, Nex-5n, Pentax KX, Pentax K30 and Fuji JZ100
Film: Minolta x700, Contax 137MD, Chinon Memotron, Minolta 500si, Minolta 700si, Canon Ex-auto, Minolta 35DL weathermatic, Pentax espio 738, Minolta Himatic-G, Olympus Trip 35, Elixa Reflex-B, Pentax MZ-60
Lens Collection:Slr Magic 28/2.8, Slr Magic 35/1.7, Minolta Rokkor 45/2, Minolta Rokkor 50/1.4, Minolta W-Rokkor-sg 28/3.5, Minolta 35-70/3.5, Minolta Rokkor-PF 55/1.9, Minolta W.Rokkor 28/3.5, Monolta MD 50/2*2, Minolta 50/1.7, Minolta zealox bellows, Minolta e.Rokkor 75/4.5, Sony 18-55 3.5/5.6, Sony 16/2.8, Asahi Smc Takumar 55/1.8, Asahi Smc Takumar 50/1.5, Meyer Gerlitz Dimoplan 50/2.8,Meyer Gerlitz Orestegon 50/1.8, Tamron 35/2.8, Tamron 70-220/4, Tamron aspherical 28-200 3.8-5.6, Seimar 28/2.8, Aus Jena Tessar 50/2.8, Industar 50/3.5, Industar 26m 50/2.8, Industar 61 55/2.8, Industar 69 28/2.8, Carenar 45/2.8, Pentacon electric 50/1.8, Pentacon 30/3.5, Pentacon 29/2.8, Helios 44m 58/2, Miida 35/2.8, Miida 75-205/3.8, Cosina 28/2.8, Kenlock 135/2.8, Kenlock 35/2.8, Kenlock Mc-tor 28/2.8, Jupiter 8 50/2, Vivitar 28-85 3.5-4.5 macro, Vivitar 28-80 3.5-5.6 macro, Exacta 35-70 3.5-4.8 macro, Sigma 35-70 2.8-4, Sigma 100-200 4.5, SamYong 18-28 4-4.5, Photax-Pharagon 35/2.8, Travenar 35/2.8, Travenar 50/1.8, Tokina 70-210 4-5.6, Tokina 28/2.8, Promura 200/3.5, Sirius 20-200 3.9, Soligor 200/3.5, Canon FL 50/1.8, Canon FD 35-70 3.5-4.5, Auto Focal 75-200/4.5, Zenit Zenitar 50/2,Tokina353 35-300mm(KX), Pentax 18-55(KX), Pentax 35-80(KX), Sigma 14mm F2.8(KX), Sigma 70-200mm(KX), Sigma 24-70mm(KX), Pentax 35-135 macro(KX), plus I have a few in for service right now and I'm always collecting more...
It's been a few months now, I need to sit down and update this list...it has grown! haha

My Blog:
http://joshpereraphoto.com
And here is my Facebook page, please check out my photos if you are a facebook user:
https://www.facebook.com/amomentintimeimagery

[WolverineX]

[Hood]

Cheers, yes I have already done 4x4 grids...my latest is here:
http://forum.mflenses.com/the-big-stitch-and-in-camera-panorama-thread-d-t46683.html

it is a 33 image stitch... it is not perfect because of my inaccurate grid shooting but came out passable in the end.

I will look into the posts you have recommended. Cheers.
_________________

-Josh

Currently shooting:
Digital:Sony Nex-5, Nex-5n, Pentax KX, Pentax K30 and Fuji JZ100
Film: Minolta x700, Contax 137MD, Chinon Memotron, Minolta 500si, Minolta 700si, Canon Ex-auto, Minolta 35DL weathermatic, Pentax espio 738, Minolta Himatic-G, Olympus Trip 35, Elixa Reflex-B, Pentax MZ-60
Lens Collection:Slr Magic 28/2.8, Slr Magic 35/1.7, Minolta Rokkor 45/2, Minolta Rokkor 50/1.4, Minolta W-Rokkor-sg 28/3.5, Minolta 35-70/3.5, Minolta Rokkor-PF 55/1.9, Minolta W.Rokkor 28/3.5, Monolta MD 50/2*2, Minolta 50/1.7, Minolta zealox bellows, Minolta e.Rokkor 75/4.5, Sony 18-55 3.5/5.6, Sony 16/2.8, Asahi Smc Takumar 55/1.8, Asahi Smc Takumar 50/1.5, Meyer Gerlitz Dimoplan 50/2.8,Meyer Gerlitz Orestegon 50/1.8, Tamron 35/2.8, Tamron 70-220/4, Tamron aspherical 28-200 3.8-5.6, Seimar 28/2.8, Aus Jena Tessar 50/2.8, Industar 50/3.5, Industar 26m 50/2.8, Industar 61 55/2.8, Industar 69 28/2.8, Carenar 45/2.8, Pentacon electric 50/1.8, Pentacon 30/3.5, Pentacon 29/2.8, Helios 44m 58/2, Miida 35/2.8, Miida 75-205/3.8, Cosina 28/2.8, Kenlock 135/2.8, Kenlock 35/2.8, Kenlock Mc-tor 28/2.8, Jupiter 8 50/2, Vivitar 28-85 3.5-4.5 macro, Vivitar 28-80 3.5-5.6 macro, Exacta 35-70 3.5-4.8 macro, Sigma 35-70 2.8-4, Sigma 100-200 4.5, SamYong 18-28 4-4.5, Photax-Pharagon 35/2.8, Travenar 35/2.8, Travenar 50/1.8, Tokina 70-210 4-5.6, Tokina 28/2.8, Promura 200/3.5, Sirius 20-200 3.9, Soligor 200/3.5, Canon FL 50/1.8, Canon FD 35-70 3.5-4.5, Auto Focal 75-200/4.5, Zenit Zenitar 50/2,Tokina353 35-300mm(KX), Pentax 18-55(KX), Pentax 35-80(KX), Sigma 14mm F2.8(KX), Sigma 70-200mm(KX), Sigma 24-70mm(KX), Pentax 35-135 macro(KX), plus I have a few in for service right now and I'm always collecting more...
It's been a few months now, I need to sit down and update this list...it has grown! haha

My Blog:
http://joshpereraphoto.com
And here is my Facebook page, please check out my photos if you are a facebook user:
https://www.facebook.com/amomentintimeimagery

[Lloydy]

I'm using ICE for pano's, both single height ones and multi height ones. The most images I've used so far has been 15 ( 3 high - 5 wide ) and I've had some good results with it.

I have experimented a bit using fairly close shot images of an ancient hedgerow, but it couldn't manage the rotational pictures. So I'm planning to try and do it by keeping parallel to the hedgerow by walking sideways.
_________________
My Flickr pages - http://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/

Better still, try -
http://www.flickriver.com/photos/mudplugga/popular-interesting/

[iangreenhalgh1]

I used ICE for a while and it does work well.

I now use Photoshop CS5 instead as it seems to be better at avoiding stitching errors and blending.

Some examples, they are 10-16 shots each:







_________________
'The question I would really consider (especially if an amateur and on a budget) is whether or not anyone (including yourself, of course) can tell the difference in any situation for which you will use the lens...and if they can, why are they burying their noses in your prints hard enough to tell the difference instead of responding to the prints emotionally and thinking about what they might mean?' - 2F/2F on apug.org

Digital: Sony NEX-3, Samsung NX100, Canon EOS 450d
35mm SLR: Konica FT-1, Konica FC-1, Konica Autoreflex T, Carena SRH760, Exakta RTL1000, Canon EOS 10qd
35mm VF: Olympus Stylus, Konica C35, Konica A4, Konica MG, Konica MT-9, Ricoh FF-9, Ricoh AF-80
35mm RF: Zorki 6, Kiev II, Kiev IV, Contax IIIa, CZJ Werra III,
Medium format: Franka Rolfix, Mess Ikonta 524/16, Voigtlander Bessa with Skopar 3.5/105, Voigtlander Bessa with Voigtar 3.5/105, Kiev 6C, Century Graphic 23, Ensign Selfix 820, Kershaw 450
MF lenses: Schneider Angulon 6.5/68, Componon-S 5.6/100, C-Claron 4.5/135, Xenar 3.5/105, Mamiya C 2.8/45, Mamiya 2.8/80, CZJ Flektogon 4/50, Biometar 2.8/80, Zodiac 3.5/30, Tominon 4.5/135, Pullin Pulnar 2.8/100
Large Format: Ernemann HEAG Series VII version II 9x12 with Kodak Anastigmat 6.3/170
Konica Hexanons 4/21, 2.8/24, 3.5/28, 2.8/35, 1.8/40, 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 1.8/50, 3.2/135, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 4.5/300, 3.5-4.5/35-70, 4-4.6/28-135, 3.5/35-70, UC 3.5/45-100, 4/70-150, 4/65-135, UC 4/80-200. Hexars 3.5/28, 3.5/135, Konishiroku 2.8/35
Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.8/35, Skoparex 3.4/35, Tessar 2.8/50, Sonnar 1.5/50, Biotar 2/58, Pancolar 1.8/50, Cardinar 4/100, Zeiss-Opton Biogon 2.8/35
Meyer/Pentacons 2.8/28, Primagon 4.5/35, Trioplan 2.9/50, 1.8/50, 2.4/50, Primotar 3.5/50, Primotar 3.5/135
Topcon RE Auto Topcors 1.8/58, 3.5/135, 5.6/200
Russians: OKC1-18-1 2.8/18, OKC1-28-1 2.8/28, Jupiter-12 2.8/35, Jupiter-8 2/50, Industar-50 3.5/50, Industar-26M 2.8/50, Industar-22 3.5/50, Zenitar M2S 2/50, Helios-44-2, Jupiter-9 2/85, Jupiter-11 4/135, Tair-3C 4.5/300
Tokina 3.5/17, Nikon Auto Nikkor-N 2.8/24, Nikon Micro-Nikkor-P 3.5/55, Ross Xpress 3.5/4in, Ross Xpress 4/5in, Ross Xpress 4.5/8.5in, Wollensak APO-Raptar 10/541

[ilguercio]

I'm using it since i find it quicker and easier compared to hugin.
I noticed that if you use focal lenghts longer than, say, 50 mm, the application thinks you've done a planar movement while i always do, as expected, a rotational one.
Changing between them doesn't alter the result, which is good most of the time.
I just had a couple of issues with the big panos (50 pictures) where i got some straight lines split up for no apparent reason.
Sometimes the error is marginal and hidden by the repetitive pattern or the coarse detail but it is annoying nevertheless.
Hugin, for some reason, takes much more time to render the same set of pics.

[Lloydy]

This one is 30 pictures - 15 wide x 2 high, and I think it would print to about 7 meters wide. The step in the viaduct is actually there, it's not a fault with the stitch. I've studied this carefully and at 200% I can see the bricks, and I can't see one join in the stitch.




This is bigger again, 75 pictures in 3 or 4 layers. This nearly crashed my computer!

I took the pictures for both on the NEX5 with a Takumar 135 / 3.5. The log picture isn't as sharp as it could be because I couldn't get any further back without standing in the river, so I was at the closest focusing distance, hand holding the camera on a grey day in the shade so it was quite wide open, and the DoF was barely 40 cm, the log is deeper. I need to that one again with a shorter lens and some light.
_________________
My Flickr pages - http://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/

Better still, try -
http://www.flickriver.com/photos/mudplugga/popular-interesting/

[ilguercio]

Wow, are you sure there's no sign of stitching?
Even on my good ones there are always a couple of them that drive me mad as hell.

[Lloydy]

[buggz]

I too like MS ICE, it works great for me.

[Lloydy]

The picture of the clock tower is from 5 pictures taken with a Chinon 300mm 5.6 lens on a Sony NEX5, stitched with ICE.
I have done quite a bit of PP as well to get the colours and levels better, but it wasn't bad without.
The 100% crop shows the level of detail from the IS0 800 shots. To print at 100% would give an image 2.2 meters high at that resolution.

The clock tower is on the top of the old Coalbrookdale Ironworks building where Abraham Darby was the first to commercially smelt and cast iron and kickstarted the Industrial Revolution.
_________________
My Flickr pages - http://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/

Better still, try -
http://www.flickriver.com/photos/mudplugga/popular-interesting/