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avwasser
Joined: 27 May 2011 Posts: 4
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Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2012 9:26 pm Post subject: SMC Pentax 1,4/50 – newbie needs support |
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avwasser wrote:
Hello,
I am Carsten. And I have been reading this forum for quite a while with lots of profit. Unfortunately I am confronted with a problem now, for which I could not find a satisfying answer yet.
Recently I bought an old Pentax 1.4/50mm. It is the "K" version, the direct successor of the smc-super Takumar. My lens shows kind of a brownish opacity. First I thought of the "well known" yellowing problem, even if the K-version of the 1.4/50mm is not known as one of those Thorium lenses. Despite that, I tried different treatments with UV light, but they achieved no visible result.
I cleaned the outer lenses before the UV treats, to make sure, that the opacity has nothing to do with nicotine or similar dirt.
May be one of you has some tips or hints? In the end the opacity is probably only of cosmetical relevance (I am shooting with the lense and it produces pretty good results). But nevertheless the opacity disturbs me somehow.
Thanks in advance,
Carsten
PS: Please excuse my Germlish.
The first photo shows my Pentax lense in comparison with a (already sold) Revuenon. The second photo is a test shot.
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ManualFocus-G
Joined: 29 Dec 2008 Posts: 6624 Location: United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-11-24
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Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2012 9:34 pm Post subject: Re: SMC Pentax 1,4/50 – newbie needs support |
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ManualFocus-G wrote:
avwasser wrote: |
Hello,
I am Carsten. And I have been reading this forum for quite a while with lots of profit. Unfortunately I am confronted with a problem now, for which I could not find a satisfying answer yet.
Recently I bought an old Pentax 1.4/50mm. It is the "K" version, the direct successor of the smc-super Takumar. My lens shows kind of a brownish opacity. First I thought of the "well known" yellowing problem, even if the K-version of the 1.4/50mm is not known as one of those Thorium lenses. Despite that, I tried different treatments with UV light, but they achieved no visible result.
I cleaned the outer lenses before the UV treats, to make sure, that the opacity has nothing to do with nicotine or similar dirt.
May be one of you has some tips or hints? In the end the opacity is probably only of cosmetical relevance (I am shooting with the lense and it produces pretty good results). But nevertheless the opacity disturbs me somehow.
Thanks in advance,
Carsten
PS: Please excuse my Germlish.
The first photo shows my Pentax lense in comparison with a (already sold) Revuenon. The second photo is a test shot.
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Welcome, hopefully someone here will be able to help you.
I quite like the brown look though _________________ Graham - Moderator
Shooter of choice: Fujifilm X-T20 with M42, PB and C/Y lenses
See my Flickr photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/manualfocus-g |
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avwasser
Joined: 27 May 2011 Posts: 4
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Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2012 9:45 pm Post subject: |
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avwasser wrote:
Thanks Graham for your help with the photos. What did I do wrong? I could see them in the preview. But after submitting my post they were gone... |
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fuzzywuzzy
Joined: 18 Dec 2010 Posts: 1258 Location: Down East, Canada, eh?
Expire: 2013-11-30
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Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 2:31 am Post subject: |
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fuzzywuzzy wrote:
avwasser wrote: |
Thanks Graham for your help with the photos. What did I do wrong? I could see them in the preview. But after submitting my post they were gone... |
Your first post can't contain images or links, it's an anti-spam control.
Now you're fine and can post images and pics at will.
(Unfortunately I can't answer your question but someone else surely will) _________________ I welcome C&C, editing my pics and reposting them on the forum is fine.
NEX-F3
~~~~~~~~~
CZJ Sonnar 135/4, Biotar 58/2, Pancolar 50/2, Tessar 50/2.8, Flek 35/2.8, Flek 25/4
Super Takumar 135/2.5, 135/3.5, 100/4 bellows, 50/1.4, 28/3.5
Helios 58/2, 3M-5A 500/8, Mir 20M
Vivitar Series 1 70-210 - - - - - - - - Nikkor 200/4
Rikenon 28/2.8 - - - - - - - - Zeiss 50/1.7 Planar
PB 50/2.4, 135/2.8
Yashica 50/1.9, 28/2.8, 135/2.8
Hexanon 28/3.5, 50/1.4 |
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IAZA
Joined: 16 Apr 2010 Posts: 2587 Location: Indonesia
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Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 3:56 am Post subject: |
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IAZA wrote:
I have smc m pentax 50/1,4, which has same yellowing. no problem to me.
Some people suggest to sun bathing the lens to make yellow go, but I never do that. like Graham said, I like it that way. bring it's own character _________________ nex5, Olympus EPM1, yashica half 14, Canon eos 650 want to see samples of mine? please click My lenses
and My gallery
~Suat~ |
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themoleman342
Joined: 21 Oct 2007 Posts: 2190 Location: East Coast (CT), U.S.A.
Expire: 2013-01-24
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Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 5:02 am Post subject: |
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themoleman342 wrote:
What UV treatments did you try?
It may just be that it didn't get enough UV for long enough. The most common method is placing the lens in a windowsill, front wrapped in tin foil and back elements facing the window. This bleaching method, however, takes months. Maybe you were just expecting faster results?
My procedure is a UVA bulb placed a couple of inches from the back glass and a front-surfaced mirror at the front. Even at 24-hour a day exposure it takes 2 weeks for 90% clear. |
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6943 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 6:59 am Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
I bought one with bad yellowing on (it was close to brown); a few days in the sun and UV blacklight cured the problem. There will always be a little yellowing as this is the colour of the coating. _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 7:41 am Post subject: |
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hoanpham wrote:
shot raw, and shot at least one frame to calibrate the wb.
i have many lenses different makers, with different colors, no problem at all. _________________ La migliore cura di LBA � imparare una nuova lingua. Le meilleur rem�de de LBA est d'apprendre une nouvelle langue. La mejor cura del LBA es aprender una nueva lengua. |
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s58y
Joined: 05 Sep 2010 Posts: 131 Location: Eastern NY
Expire: 2013-09-10
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Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 12:24 pm Post subject: |
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s58y wrote:
I used a 15-watt fluorescent UV bulb to clear a yellowed 50/1.4 S-M-C Takumar. Most of the yellow was gone in 2 days After 8 days, it was about as clear as a typical lens Of course, the yellowing in the S-M-C was probably due to radioactivity.
In your case, assuming the lens has no thorium, the yellowing may be caused by something else, and maybe the UV bleaching method doesn't work well? _________________
flickr photostream
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Keysersoze27
Joined: 19 Feb 2009 Posts: 466 Location: Greece
Expire: 2012-12-24
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Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 1:33 pm Post subject: |
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Keysersoze27 wrote:
Strange .....
I recently purchased a SMC Pentax 1.4/50 K exactly like yours (but higher s/n) and it's perfectly clear with no yellowing.
Two months ago as I was looking out for precise info about the K mount version of this lens I came into one of this lens with low s/n that had yellow glass..... could it be that some early K mounts had the same radioactive glass of the last rubber focussing SMC takumars ???? _________________ Canon EOS 5D MkII , EOS 50E, Contax RTS, Olympus OM2n, Nikon Z6ii
28mm: Zeiss Distagon 2.8/28 MMJ
35mm: CZ Distagon 2/35 ZE , S-M-C Takumar 3.5/35
40mm: CZJ Tessar T 4.5/40 1Q
50mm: CZ Planar 1.4/50 MMJ,CZ Planar 1.7/50 AEJ+MMJ,Leica Summicron 2/50 v3,S-M-C Takumar 1.4/50,Pentax SMC 1.4/50 K,Pentax SMC 1.8/55 K,Nikkor 1.8/50 ,CZJ Tessar T 3.5/50 1Q , CZ Planar 1.8/50 (QBM),Zuiko 1.4/50, Zuiko 1.8/50, Icarex Tessar 2.8/50, Nikkor 2/50 Ai,Schneider Kreuznach Xenar 2.8/50 Preset, Pentacon Prakticar 2.4/50 MC v1, CZJ Pancolar 1.8/50 Zebra , Rikenon 1.4/50 P
55mm: Fujinon 1.8/55 EBC
58mm: Helios MC 44-3 2/58
85mm: Zeiss Sonnar 2.8/85 AEJ
90mm: Voigtl�nder APO-Lanthar 3.5/90 SLII , Leica Elmarit-R 2.8/90 v2
100~105mm:Zeiss Sonnar 3.5/100 MM, Nikkor 2.5/105 AiS, S-M-C Takumar 2.8/105
135mm: Leica Elmarit R 2.8/135 v2, S-M-C Takumar 3.5/135, CZJ 4/135 Sonnar Exakta leatherette (1963),CZJ 4/135 Triotar
Macro:Leica Macro-Elmarit R 2.8/60, Micro-Nikkor Auto 3.5/55 Compensating type (1964)
Last edited by Keysersoze27 on Fri Feb 10, 2012 12:56 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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avwasser
Joined: 27 May 2011 Posts: 4
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Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 11:17 pm Post subject: |
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avwasser wrote:
Thank you all for your friendly answers!
@ Keysersoze27: I also thought, that the early 1.4/50mm K-versions might have Thorium lenses as the taks had. Therefore I tried to cure my copy by treating it with UV light. But, as I wrote, the cure didn't show a visible improvement.
@ themoleman342: I tried two different ways. In both cases the lense was exposed to the UV light for a week. First I had the lense sit under a blacklight bulb. After that I tried the flourescent tube of a device, that is normally used to detect counterfeit money (sorry for this kind of clumsy description, I couldn't find a propper term for what in german is called a "Geldtester").
PS: At last Mrs. Google was so kind to help me ... the term I was looking for is: Fraudulent Bank Note Detector |
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RioRico
Joined: 12 Mar 2010 Posts: 1120 Location: California or Guatemala or somewhere
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Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 8:38 am Post subject: |
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RioRico wrote:
I occasionally shoot film, usually B&W, but mostly I shoot digital in RAW. I have NEVER had a digicam with accurate AWB. Thus I tweak color cast|balance|temperature of almost every shot. To me, color casting by a lens is irrelevant. I make colors look the way I want them to look. That's integral to PP, part of the image-making process.
Is a truism: What you think you see, what you want to see, what the camera+lens sees, and what is 'really' there (if anything), are NOT THE SAME. If 'accurate' color rendition is needed, then calibrate and measure and make sure the setup is technically as perfect as possible. I don't need such, so I don't worry about it. Life goes on. _________________ Too many film+digi cams+lenses, oh my -- Pentax K20D, K-1000, M42s, more
The simple truth is this: There are no neutral photographs. --F-Stop Fitzgerald |
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fuzzywuzzy
Joined: 18 Dec 2010 Posts: 1258 Location: Down East, Canada, eh?
Expire: 2013-11-30
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Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 2:04 pm Post subject: |
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fuzzywuzzy wrote:
RioRico wrote: |
I occasionally shoot film, usually B&W, but mostly I shoot digital in RAW. I have NEVER had a digicam with accurate AWB. Thus I tweak color cast|balance|temperature of almost every shot. To me, color casting by a lens is irrelevant. I make colors look the way I want them to look. That's integral to PP, part of the image-making process.
Is a truism: What you think you see, what you want to see, what the camera+lens sees, and what is 'really' there (if anything), are NOT THE SAME. If 'accurate' color rendition is needed, then calibrate and measure and make sure the setup is technically as perfect as possible. I don't need such, so I don't worry about it. Life goes on. |
+1 _________________ I welcome C&C, editing my pics and reposting them on the forum is fine.
NEX-F3
~~~~~~~~~
CZJ Sonnar 135/4, Biotar 58/2, Pancolar 50/2, Tessar 50/2.8, Flek 35/2.8, Flek 25/4
Super Takumar 135/2.5, 135/3.5, 100/4 bellows, 50/1.4, 28/3.5
Helios 58/2, 3M-5A 500/8, Mir 20M
Vivitar Series 1 70-210 - - - - - - - - Nikkor 200/4
Rikenon 28/2.8 - - - - - - - - Zeiss 50/1.7 Planar
PB 50/2.4, 135/2.8
Yashica 50/1.9, 28/2.8, 135/2.8
Hexanon 28/3.5, 50/1.4 |
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7785 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 7:30 pm Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
RioRico wrote: |
I occasionally shoot film, usually B&W, but mostly I shoot digital in RAW. I have NEVER had a digicam with accurate AWB. Thus I tweak color cast|balance|temperature of almost every shot. To me, color casting by a lens is irrelevant. I make colors look the way I want them to look. That's integral to PP, part of the image-making process.
Is a truism: What you think you see, what you want to see, what the camera+lens sees, and what is 'really' there (if anything), are NOT THE SAME. If 'accurate' color rendition is needed, then calibrate and measure and make sure the setup is technically as perfect as possible. I don't need such, so I don't worry about it. Life goes on. |
I think it's the only way to see the image we saw in the first place. _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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avwasser
Joined: 27 May 2011 Posts: 4
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Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 10:18 pm Post subject: |
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avwasser wrote:
Thanks, RioRico. You are right. But I came from the left I didn’t look at the lense with strict photographer’s eyes (that are already winking at Adobe’s Photoshop), more with the eyes of curiosity.
But, hm, you are probably also right in a kind of deeper meaning. Perhaps I should better put focus on the fact, that life goes on. Instead of curiously not getting anywhere. Otherwise I’ll later get into a hurry, that no image stabilization in the world will be able to fix. |
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